Wood flooring
aeperry0209
January 29, 2013 in Design Dilemma
I am considering wood floors for my kitchen and great room. My dilemma is light oak cabinetry and dark cherry furniture In the great room. What color flooring would go with both? Or would I be better off just doing wood flooring in the great room only?
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PRO
Scott Design, Inc.
If you are talking about installing unfinished oak flooring and refinishing, then red oak with Minwax English Chestnut stain will work well with your furniture and cabinetry.
January 29, 2013 at 11:20am   
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navag
I would love wood floors in the kitchen but have been am being am told they are not durable in the kitchen. What has your experience been with wood floors? What type do you recommend that would opening into the living room as well? We live near a lake.
January 29, 2013 at 11:36am   
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PRO
Scott Design, Inc.
I'm going to include a response that I wrote for a couple of other discussion groups regarding wood floors based on my experience as a designer, contractor and homeowner. Next to stone/tile, it is the most durable and long lasting material for floors as long as it is 3/4" solid wood.

They are easy on the legs and back. If children fall, they don't crack open their heads. If they get wet, they are not as slippery as tile. If faced with broken pipes or overflowing water left to linger for quite a while, there will be some dimensional change but it will dry out along with the subfloor and continue to give you years of service. Grout between tile develops small cracks due to the movement in the floor (and if the floor is not strong enough to support the tile, then the tile will also crack). When the water seeps down into the subfloor, it has a tough time drying out.

Here's my suggestion...install 3/4 thick unfinished wood (doesn't have to match your other floors in species, grad, width or color); sand it; "pop" the grain before applying the stain so it will penetrate deeper and more consistently than it would on sanded floors; apply 3 or 4 coats of Waterlox tongue oil finish. This penetrates the wood and moves with the wood whereas urethane sits on top and cracks when the wood expands and contracts. "Waterlox literally locks out water with a formula that relies on the protective nature of resins and the penetrating sealing advantages of tung oil. Waterlox permeates wood surfaces and actually becomes part of the wood itself to resist moisture, dirt, household chemicals, alcoholic beverages, heat and cold." per www.waterlox.com/about

The whitish scratches you typically see are in the urethane. Tongue oil surfaces will wear and scratch with normal every day use, but because the finish is part of the wood, you will not be able to see them as much.The best part of all is that you can spot clean and remove scratches and repair deep scratches yourself. You don't have to rescreen or resand the floors as you would with urethane. I still recommend that you put felt pads on the table, stools and chair legs and anything else that may be dragged across the floor to minimize whatever upkeep you may want to do later. You may also want to get a grade of the wood that has imperfections in it so that whatever marks may happen from dog and kid activity will not stand out, e.g. #2 oak.

I recommend this approach to all of my remodelling clients and I do this in the new homes I design and build. It provides a rich, hand-rubbed patina that enhances a wood’s grain.
January 29, 2013 at 1:26pm     
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