Bay Window Design Dilemma-
February 13, 2013 in Design Dilemma
In an attempt to add character to our dinning room I have added some faux board and batten. I like how this has turned out however I'm not sure what to do with the bay window. If you look at the pictures you will see the board and batten goes about 60% up the wall. We will be painting that white and the top part of the wall will be navy. The previous owners had a chair rail (the white horizontal line in the pictures) and painted the bay window to match the bottom part of the wall (red). The bay window is sort of odd because there is soffit (I think that is what it would be called) and it has a different "ceiling" height. Also there is space between the windows but it is less than 2 inches. I'm not sure what to do with the bay windows to pull them into the design of the room. I've looked for pictures of bay windows with any type of wainscoting and I just can't find something similar. The way I see it I have 3 options:

1. Omit any board and batten in bay area and paint entire bay WHITE to match lower half of wall.
2. Omit any board and batten in bay area and paint entire bay NAVY to match upper half of wall.
3. Continue board and batten as best as I can and paint NAVY and WHITE accordingly with the rest of the room. The bay ceiling will be a flat white to match the dining room ceiling.

Which is the best option? Is there another option? HELP!!!!
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Sorry if anyone was looking at this while I was editing. Half my explanation was getting cut off but I just figured out why! Thanks in advance for any advice!
February 13, 2013 at 7:29AM   
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Ironwood Builders
Turn the 90 deg. corner and kill the top rail of your wainscot into the window casing. Continue the battens under the window and carry through to the other side. Miter two battens on their long edge to turn the corner properly. Spend some time on the batten layout so that there are equal spaces between them and symmetry at the bay window. Your square stock battens and top rail are a little stark in comparison yo your casing. More arts and crafts than traditional. I suggest a panel mould or base cap inside each panel created by the battens, tight to the battens and rails to soften the edge. I can't see how the battens work with the baseboard. Typically we pull the base and install a tall bottom rail that matches the batten thickness and width after the base is re-installed. Because the base will be farther out a mitered return is the best termination at the door casing.
February 13, 2013 at 7:56AM   
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