Need new master bath floor design
kroze
July 18, 2013 in Design Dilemma
I will be removing the bath tub and only going with a large shower. But the layout is very bad and has much wasted space. There is a narrow useless closet in the master bedroom. I want to make it wider and deeper....... a walk through closet from the bedroom door to the bathroom. That would require moving the toilet...... to where? Should the new shower be where the current walk-in closet is located? I'm stumped and need help!

Also I want a lot of built in cabinets, drawers, and shelves..... in the bathroom and closet.

Am I getting into cost prohibitive territory?
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kroze
That is an awkward linen closet next to the toilet. More wasted space!
July 18, 2013 at 9:59AM   
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suzanne_m
What is on the other side of the top walls of your drawing? Can they be moved? Can the entry door to the master bedroom be moved? What is on the left of the toilet?
July 18, 2013 at 11:14AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
it depends on what you chose for all the cabinets and the fixtures as well but you totally need a redesign I will work on it and see what i come up with. Have you come up with a budget yet ?
July 18, 2013 at 11:19AM     
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kroze
The wall behind the tub and linen closet cannot be moved because the media room is on the other side. However, the wall above the narrow bedroom closet is the stairwell. It could be moved slightly.... maybe a foot to make it line up with the bathtub wall. I wouldn't want to move the bedroom door because it is around the corner from the den. Also there is hardwood leading up to the bedroom door.

BTW, the sinks and counter are not staying.
July 18, 2013 at 11:21AM   
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suzanne_m
Oops kroze, I just read that the space above the toilet is a linen closet. What is your use for the narrow closet? Is it for clothes that should go in the master closet?
July 18, 2013 at 11:22AM   
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kroze
Well, I am not held to a budget but I don't want it to be hugely expensive. I am concerned about the overall value of my house per square foot.
July 18, 2013 at 11:22AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
Is this a first floor or a second floor ?
July 18, 2013 at 11:23AM     
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kroze
The narrow closet is useless IMHO, so it collects junk...... suitcases, xmas stuff, etc.....
July 18, 2013 at 11:23AM   
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kroze
This is a first floor room.
July 18, 2013 at 11:24AM   
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kroze
If there is a way to widen the narrow closet and make it connect all the way to the bathroom, I would love for hanging clothes to be on one side and built-ins to be on the other side of the walk through.
July 18, 2013 at 11:27AM   
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suzanne_m
If I understand, the narrow closet is useless because of its shape but since I read that you want it wider and deeper, you would still like to have a space to keep suitcases, xmas stuff etc.
July 18, 2013 at 11:28AM   
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suzanne_m
I guess I was typing my question at the same time you were answering it :)
July 18, 2013 at 11:30AM   
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kroze
No, I want it to replace the current walk in closet.
July 18, 2013 at 11:30AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
do you have a basement or is the house on a slab
July 18, 2013 at 11:32AM     
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jlvc
I would suggest not having a door to the closet from the bathroom, any steam or humidity from the bathroom will create a dampness in your closet and could lead to mold issues...
July 18, 2013 at 11:34AM     
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kroze
The stairwell actually corners beside the narrow closet. So, there is probably not enough height at the platform level of the stairs for it to help a lot except maybe for built-ins.
July 18, 2013 at 11:37AM   
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kroze
No basement, slab. There is already a closet opening to the bathroom with no problem.
July 18, 2013 at 11:38AM   
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suzanne_m
What is the space in the corner between the 2 sinks and the tub?
kroze, I don't understand your explanation about the height between stairwell and narrow closet. I thought it would be a full height floor to ceiling.
July 18, 2013 at 11:44AM   
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suzanne_m
Da Vinci designs, Kroze said there is no basement. Does that mean, it is very complicated to move the toilet?
July 18, 2013 at 11:46AM   
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kroze
I just realized the stairwell platform is higher than I realized. There are only a few steps above the turn. So it might be over seven feet at the turn. However, the narrow closet ceiling is about fifteen feet!
July 18, 2013 at 11:49AM   
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kroze
Suzanne, the area to the rear of the tub is just a shelf where I currently have a wrought iron rack for towels. More wasted space!
July 18, 2013 at 11:51AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
what are the measurements of the rest of the master bedroom and what furniture do you have in it ?
July 18, 2013 at 11:52AM   
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kroze
To give you a better picture of the stairwell dynamics, most of the staircase is perpendicular to the narrow closet. It runs along the media room wall and then turns near the top. The turning platform and remaining few steps are parallel to the narrow closet.
July 18, 2013 at 11:56AM   
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kroze
Well, at the smallest point the dimension is 14' 8" x 14' 10", However, with the jog, it is 17' 6". That doesn't take into account the small entrance area inside the bedroom.

I have a bed, two night stands, a desk and chair, a trunk, a quilt cabinet and and another table and chair. It sounds crowded but it isn't. However, I have no chest of drawers. That is why I want built-ins.
July 18, 2013 at 12:02PM   
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kroze
I have a small chest of drawers inside the walk-in closet and a cheap shelving unit.
July 18, 2013 at 12:05PM   
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bella_mar
tried keeping simply without moving the toilet too far. expanded the large closet space a bit also and removed the other one. hope this some how helped. *Tub not tube :)
July 18, 2013 at 12:33PM     
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bella_mar
Also, if you'd prefer, have the walkin in closet door where the linen closet is and than linen closet further in the walkin
July 18, 2013 at 12:37PM   
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Da Vinci designs
You can do some great stuff with the space if you can remove the toilet room and put it where the exciting shower is then make a smaller vanity for her but still larger than his then an great comer shower then a vanity for him and a new linen closet . as for your existing closet block the door from the bath and put a pocket door or sliding doors and the outer closet do sliding doors as well get rid of the door when you walk into your room . Gene
July 18, 2013 at 12:40PM   
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kroze
Da Vinci designs, I'm not sure I follow all of that. Are you moving the bedroom wall at all?

Does the shower drain go to the same piping as the toilet? I know that the toilet is black water and the shower is gray water, but don't they go to the same place? if so, would it make it easier to put the toilet where the current shower is?
July 18, 2013 at 12:48PM   
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kroze
Bella, no tub in the remodel.
July 18, 2013 at 12:49PM   
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bella_mar
so no baths? having no tub, jetted tub, or jacuzzi tub etc, may lower the value of a home.
July 18, 2013 at 12:51PM   
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kroze
bella, I have two other tubs in the house. I don't want one in the master bath. My husband and I both shower.
July 18, 2013 at 12:56PM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
I am not there these are just ideas If I was there I would find out if I can move the toilet that's important I am sure you have to make sure you can and your plumbing is suited for it . Then we would map it out and check all the structural details . Gene
July 18, 2013 at 1:19PM   
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bella_mar
I guess i missed ithat on your post. But here is another solution i think might work (keeping in mind my previous plan).
July 18, 2013 at 1:22PM   
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bella_mar
toilet is still fairly close to where it once was. Now you can have a dual shower
July 18, 2013 at 1:23PM   
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kroze
Bella, I DO want a toilet!
July 18, 2013 at 1:24PM   
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kroze
Gene, how do you find out if you can move the toilet? All the pipes are in the slab and we will probably have to chisel out some places. Right now we have no idea how the pipes lie.
July 18, 2013 at 1:26PM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
there must be mechanical plans for the home some were or you need to engage a plumber that you trust and put the questions to him I feel if this can be done you will gain so much valuable space .
July 18, 2013 at 1:35PM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
If i was there I would walk you through its not that hard be confident !!! This project could overwhelm you easily.
July 18, 2013 at 1:37PM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
I will send you a floor plan in the morning have a great night !!
July 18, 2013 at 1:38PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I drew a floor plan that also need to move the toilet. I don't know how you find out if you can.
In the floor plan below, I remove the closet and move its back wall few inches to the left. This gives you that much more space in the master bedroom. I closed a small space to the left of the toilet but you can keep it open if you want.
The shower is to the right of the toilet. I enlarge the closet. You can put a linen closet inside your master closet.
July 18, 2013 at 1:39PM     
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bella_mar
Korze : there is a toilet.
July 18, 2013 at 1:44PM   
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bella_mar
there is no way to find out about the toilet unless you hire licensed contractor who should know how to figure that problem through his own resources. Im sure it wouldnt be impossible to move the toilet im just sure it would be alot of money.
July 18, 2013 at 1:45PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, the floor plan I drew is very much what you suggested. So I think you were on a good start when you suggested it.
I just thought that the small space that I closed could be a nice little space to hide valuables when you leave on vacation :)
July 18, 2013 at 1:49PM   
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kroze
I guess everyone thinks the walk through closet was a bad idea.

If I keep the current closet, I think the door should be centered so I can have hanging or cabinet space on both sides. With the door to one side, I lose too much space. That is if I keep the door from the bathroom, which I am inclined to do.

I want a larger shower.
July 18, 2013 at 1:54PM   
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kroze
Thanks for the drawings.
July 18, 2013 at 1:57PM   
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suzanne_m
What size of shower are you thinking Kroze? I would like to keep playing with the floor plan and try to keep your toilet in its current location. Can you tell me the current size of your shower and the current dimensions of the linen closet and toilet area?
July 18, 2013 at 2:09PM   
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kroze
The current shower is 3' x 4'. The linen closet is only 28 inches wide but five feet deep (a little more). The toilet room is 44 inches wide and a little more than five feet deep. I am convinced that the builder was smoking something funny. These skinny deep closets are extremely frustrating.

Hope that helps. I appreciate your interest.
July 18, 2013 at 2:25PM   
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suzanne_m
The shower I drew in the floor plan above is about 6.5 ft x 40 in. Were you thinking a bigger shower than that?
July 18, 2013 at 2:40PM   
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kroze
No! I didn't realize it was that large. I like the depth of it because I don't want to use any glass. I want a walk in shower...... maybe even wheel chair accessible...... I'm not getting any younger. I still have my health now, but I want to grow old in this house.
July 18, 2013 at 2:51PM   
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bella_mar
this is with the toilet and double doors in its current location giving you a walk through linen/walkin closet. (dual shower is about 3'x7')
July 18, 2013 at 3:05PM     
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bella_mar
good luck kroze. hope you post before and after pics
July 18, 2013 at 3:28PM   
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kroze
Thank you bella, but I want the toilet enclosed. What have you done with the space behind the toilet. Is it bedroom space or something else? Have you removed the narrow bedroom closet?

If I cannot incorporate the narrow closet into an extension of the bathroom, I will keep it as is and install shelving along one of the long walls. That is definitely not ideal, but at least is is somewhat useable. I really don't need more bedroom space.
July 18, 2013 at 3:31PM   
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kroze
Yes, I plan to document this remodel with pics.
July 18, 2013 at 3:37PM   
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bella_mar
so if you want no tub but shower with no glass and want a private toilet area in its current or near current location , through a walk through closet without gaining more bedroom space than so far suzanne's plan is your best bet.
July 18, 2013 at 3:51PM   
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kroze
The walk through closet is not mandatory. The enclosed toilet is. Besides the large shower and enclosed toilet, everything is flexible. With that much space it would seem that something very attractive and useable could be designed. I just don't seem to be able to bring it together.

Basically everything in the bathroom will be replaced. New cabinets, sinks, etc. ......
July 18, 2013 at 3:59PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this plan is based with the assumption that you can easily turn the toilet 90 degrees while keeping the same drain. I had to move some walls around the toilet to make it to code. The toilet has to have at least 15 in. on each side. I allow for 18 in. The wall behind the toilet had to be moved closer in order to keep the toilet at the same location. I kept the closet at the entrance of your bedroom but it is less deep and put doors the other direction for easy access. I included a linen closet to the left of the toilet. The closet is about 6 in. bigger. I added built-ins on the bottom wall of the closet.

Here's are some measurements in inches:

Closet at the entrance of the bedroom: 72 x 24 - Approximate. It depends on where the toilet's drain is
Toilet: 36 x 56
Linen: 24 x 36
Vanity: 24 x 60
Shower: 72 x 60
Built-ins: 58 x 18
Closet: 150 in. linear rod
July 18, 2013 at 5:00PM     
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kroze
Thank you Suzanne for all your work! I love the shower!
This is a very interesting arrangement. I could put a door between the linen closet and wall to enclose the toilet area.

The biggest problem I see is the fact that there are FOUR doorways in the bedroom. That greatly reduces my ability to place furniture. But it could be done.

hmmm..... just thinking.... if we turn the linen closet sideways there might be enough room on the back wall for some built-ins.?

This is definitely a good start Suzanne and much better than anything I have done.
July 18, 2013 at 5:26PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, just thinking again... if we exchange places with the shower and sinks, would that cause a problem?

If we do that, the closet door can be centered, which I would like. And maybe there would be room for a built-in directly opposite the sinks. :)
July 18, 2013 at 5:42PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I made a mistake on the dimension of the shower, I meant to write 72 x 36.
The linen closet is 24 x 36. I guess you can have a built-in and a linen closet 18 x 36 each.

I am not sure exactly what is the size of the double doors to the bathroom and closet. Maybe you can have 30 in. doors instead. You would gain few inches of wall.

Also, the measurements don't take into account the thickness of walls. A wall is usually 4 in. thick.
July 18, 2013 at 5:47PM   
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ReSquare Architecture + Construction
@kroze: I don't want to dampen the design charette mood here, it's great you can get all this input this way, but I think you'd best served by hiring a local pro to work directly with you.

Moving fixtures with slab on grade, (especially that toilet) is going to drive up costs in a hurry (concrete sawing and jack-hammering slab, trenching for new laterals, pouring new doweled slab). A wheel-chair accessible shower will also require cutting out the entire shower foot-print to be able to provide the code required drainage slopes.

To get your sub-slab pipe info you can contract a drain line video scoping outfit. They typically run a few $100. But it would be very helpful for you to have a plumber on board when that happens so they can interpret the scoping info for you.

Walls are usually at least 4-1/2" thick with 1/2" drywall, more if you have tile on them or use 5/8" drywall. And if you need to run vent pipes and plumbing in them, especially if both, better to go with 2x6 that leave you with a minimum of 6-1/2" with 1/2" drywall.

Maybe it can all be done in your budget, but before you get too wedded to any one design you really should have a pro pricing and addressing all these things for you.

That's the sort of thing we do (we are in LA and happy to talk if you want) but I am sure you can find a local pro where you are with the Houzz pro finder.
July 18, 2013 at 5:48PM     
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suzanne_m
Actually, switching the vanity and shower would give you a wider passage between the closet entrance and the shower. However, I put the vanity in the corner because I thought it would be better if it is closer to the toilet.
July 18, 2013 at 5:50PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I agree with ReSquare Architecture + Construction that you need to hire a professional before starting the destruction. However, it does not hurt to get ideas that you can discuss with the professional.
July 18, 2013 at 5:53PM     
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suzanne_m
If you are ok to have the vanity moved further from the toilet, the other advantage would be that it looks nicer to enter in the bathroom facing a vanity instead of an enclosed shower.
July 18, 2013 at 5:57PM     
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kroze
Wow, ReSquare, you have been extremely helpful. I think I just caved on the wheel chair accessible shower!

Within the last year I have done extensive remodeling in my kitchen and living areas. So I am familiar with the area contractors. But I was thinking of not hiring a general contractor for this project. Thought I could ramrod the crews myself. But I might change my mind. :) I am located just north of Dallas.

I am good at specing out my materials ahead of time and having a good game plan before starting. There is no substitute for good planning. It saved my rear in the kitchen remodel. My contract was very detailed.

I really appreciate your input.


Suzanne, I am not concerned with having the vanity near the toilet. I want the most efficient use of the space. That means as few bare walls as possible within the bathroom/closet area. In a perfect design, there would be something on every wall...... cabinet, vanity, shower, doorway, etc. But it isn't going to be perfect!
July 18, 2013 at 6:09PM     
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suzanne_m
Kroze, while you sent your message, I was working on the plan. I thought you might like the idea of having a small sink into the toilet area if you are ok to reduce the size of the closet at the entrance of the bathroom. It is a matter of choosing between a sink close to the toilet or having that extra space in the closet.
I put 30 in. doors for the bathroom and the closet and it seems that you gain about 18 in. wall between these 2 doors.
July 18, 2013 at 6:25PM   
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suzanne_m
Oops, I meant to attach the plan:
July 18, 2013 at 6:26PM   
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kroze
That is much better Suzanne. I like it. I'm not sure about the sink by the toilet. I will give it some thought.

Now we could actually put a whole wall of built-ins between the shower and toilet door.....which would then go where the linen closet is now. What do you think? It would have to swing out instead of in. But the new closet would be bigger than the current linen closet.
July 18, 2013 at 6:36PM   
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kroze
Ah so, just thought of another idea. If we nix the door from the bedroom into the closet, that entire wall inside the closet could have built-ins. Eureka! Hollywood closet! And I'm not crazy about two doors into that closet anyway.
July 18, 2013 at 6:45PM   
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kroze
One more thing Suzanne. Let's add one foot to the vanity length and take it out of the closet. Then I will build a wall of drawers and an upper cabinet just outside the closet door for my husband.

I'm beginning to get excited about this. I think it will work beautifully!

But we will see what Gene brings us tomorrow. He may have another great plan!
July 18, 2013 at 7:00PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, if you extend the vanity one foot, it means that you also need to move the left wall of the built-in inside the vanity. Are you ok with that? Are you ok to reduce the built-in by 1 foot?
July 18, 2013 at 7:11PM   
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kroze
How does that reduce the built-in wall by one foot? Do you mean inside the closet? You said inside the vanity and that confuses me. I realize that it will reduce the overall length of the closet by one foot.
July 18, 2013 at 7:14PM   
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kroze
I'm warming up to the sink in the toilet room. :)
July 18, 2013 at 7:21PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I have another plan. On this one, I turned the shower 90 degrees and moved the 7 ft vanity to the right. That allows you to enlarge the closet by 2 ft. The little square on the left side when you enter the bathroom is the linen closet. It is about 18 in deep by 24 in large.

I recommend that you leave 20 in. at the bottom of the drawing for rod's space. That's how much space you need to reserve for hanging clothes. This would give you that whole wall of rod.

Also, because the vanity is closer to the toilet, you may not need the sink in the toilet area.
Another thing, I like pocket door because it does not use wall space when opened and prevent that the door bumps on the person on the other side. You may consider a pocket door to the entrance of the bathroom. You could also have one for the closet but the opening would need to be only 24 in. wide so the door can slide completely inside the wall. If you are ok to have 18 in. deep built-in then you could have a 30 in. pocket door that would slide inside the left wall of the vanity. Personally, I would choose that option. I checked my dresser and it is 18 in. deep and I find it works fine.

I am going to be draw this floor plan with a software that is more precise with measurements and see if my estimates are close.
July 18, 2013 at 7:46PM   
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Fred S
There are low profile trough drains that solve the accessibility issues with the shower that Resquare pointed out. It also can make moving the shower drain a bit much easier. As long as the original drain is anywhere in the footprint.
July 18, 2013 at 8:04PM     
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suzanne_m
Kroze, when you will talk with a professional, you could ask him how much it will cost to move the toilet on its facing wall. If you judge that the cost is something you are ok with, it would be a lot nicer and a more efficient flow because you won't need to zig zag to get to the toilet door. You would also be able to add a built-in and or a linen closet between the toilet and the shower.
July 18, 2013 at 8:24PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, do you have windows somewhere in the closet or bathroom?
July 18, 2013 at 8:27PM   
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ReSquare Architecture + Construction
@Fred: Can you pass on a link to that drain product? I'd be interested.
July 18, 2013 at 8:44PM   
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Fred S
The AG100 has the lowest profile I think in this brand. http://infinitydrain.com/installations.html
July 18, 2013 at 9:24PM     
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bella_mar
one more attempt. :). here i place built in on either side of the vanity. hopefully you ok with 2 closets
July 18, 2013 at 10:12PM     
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samsamyd
Bella_mar, could you re-draw with the "HIS" closet door moved onto to the wall shared with the Master on the way to the bath (90 degrees from where you have it). Kroze, either a pocket door or one of those modern artistic 'barn door's I saw in the procduct list on HOUZZ - so it looks like art. The closet would be much more useful and less 'door smacking' with the bedroom door.
July 18, 2013 at 10:31PM   
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samsamyd
Or pocket door that when closed is art: http://www.houzz.com/photos/products/closet-door-tree (scroll down a bit)
July 18, 2013 at 10:42PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I just realized that I did not clarify the confusion about reducing 1 foot. Yes, I meant to say reduce the length of the entire closet by 1 foot.

Below is a more realistic layout with my last drawing. I added a second one where the toilet facing the opposite wall. After adding thickness of the walls, there are few things I don't like:

On the first drawing, I don't like the 2'-3" passage between the shower and the toilet. I also don't like the built-in in the bathroom is that small. The layout # 2 is fixing these 2 problems.

On both layout, I have the choice of having either 2'-0" or 2'-2". Between the two, 2'-2" door is better but it is not standard and would be a special order. You can put a 2'-6" standard door (not pocket) if you have 1'-6" deep built-in which I find is fine.
July 18, 2013 at 11:01PM   
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suzanne_m
This one is fixes the problems of the narrow passage, the linen closet and the small built-in in the bathroom but the master closet is small.

It's 2:30 am now. I am going to bed. I will leave early tomorrow morning for the week-end. I will have time to read the comments but I won't have access to my drawings. Good night.
July 18, 2013 at 11:27PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, please ignore the layout above. Check this one instead, the information on it is more complete.
July 18, 2013 at 11:38PM     
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PRO
OnePlan
Nice work Suzanne !!!
July 18, 2013 at 11:50PM   
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suzanne_m
Thank you OnePlan.

Kroze, the small closet bothered me so I wasn't able to sleep. It is still a decent closet except that for re-sale value, the potential buyers might expect a bigger closet when they see the size of the master bedroom and bathroom.

The plan below increases the master closet by 4'-5" linear rod and the overall feel of the master closet and bathroom is more spacious and luxurious. However, the trade-off is your are loosing 2'-11" width of your master bedroom. Personally, I feel it is still feel a big bedroom.

I changed the pocket doors for regular doors because you have a lot of space. However, the pocket doors still an option if you prefer. One thing you have to keep in mind when installing pocket door is you have to make sure there is nothing inside the wall that would block the door when it slides inside the wall such as light switch or screwing things like a towel rack etc.
July 19, 2013 at 12:31AM   
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suzanne_m
I added a mirror and a bench in the master closet:
July 19, 2013 at 1:13AM   
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suzanne_m
I added the sink in the toilet area since the big vanity is a bit far from the toilet.

This is the last one until I am back on Sunday. I am going to bed now ... FOR REAL!
July 19, 2013 at 1:26AM   
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suzanne_m
I am sorry, I could not resist to make one more change. I moved the bathroom door to be closer to the master closet since you need to walk through the bathroom to enter in the closet.
July 19, 2013 at 1:42AM     
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suzanne_m
Two last drawings before leaving for the week-end.

On the first drawing, I split the built-ins in the bathroom to make a compromise between walking to the closet and walking to the toilet. The symmetry should look nice too. I added double door for aesthetic. I moved the built-in in the master closet on the opposite wall to make it in line with the built-in in the bathroom. I enlarged the shower by 3 in. and reduced the depth of the linen closet by 3 in.

The second drawing is the same as the first except the toilet is moved on its opposite wall and the linen closet is enlarged and moved on that wall as well. There is no need to add a third sink since the toilet is now close to the vanity. I added a towel rack inside the shower and two rings on each side of the vanity for the hand towels.

Kroze, these plans are based on 3 measurements: walls A, B and C and the location of the drain for the toilet. Can you check the measurements of wall A,B and C in your house just to make sure I made no mistake? These plans are also based on the assumption that there is no problem to move the left wall of the master bedroom by 2'-11" to the right.
July 19, 2013 at 3:31AM     
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kroze
Suzanne, good morning! Did you sleep at all last night?

I am amazed at your work. It is beautiful. I think your measurements are good except the current closet. It is 6.5' wide and 8' deep. The current measurement behind the tub is 6.5" and the toilet room is 5.1'. This does not take into account the wall space between them. The narrow closet is 7.25' deep. One more measurement. From the walk-in closet door to the wall behind the tub is 13.5'. There are no windows.

The bad news is that reducing the width of the bedroom by 2' 11" is not realistic. IMO, the current measurements are rather small for a master. It is only 14' 10" from the closet wall to the den wall (across). It is 20' 5" from the outside wall to the bedroom door, 17' 4" from outside wall to narrow closet wall, and 14' 8" from outside wall to toilet room wall. That is a lot of numbers, but hopefully better explains my limitations.
July 19, 2013 at 5:41AM   
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bella_mar
suzanne your solutions are great! Its nice to see ppl on houzz be so helpful becuase this type of solutions can coast alot.
My personal fav is the second one on the right. Very good use of space there.
July 19, 2013 at 8:45AM     
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kroze
I am in the process of getting a plumber's recommendation. But my husband said that moving the toilet three feet to the back wall should not be a problem. So, for now I am going with that assumption.
July 19, 2013 at 9:03AM   
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kroze
A couple of other minor details here. I want shallow storage cabinets at both ends of the vanity, perpendicular to the wall. Also, I want a bench in the shower. I plan to heat the floors also. Would love to do all of this for around 20k, but it will depend a lot on my material selections...... and I'm picky!

You guys are being so much help to me! I really do appreciate all of the time you are investing in my project! Many thanks.
July 19, 2013 at 9:09AM     
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kroze
We didn't hear from Da Vinci Designs today... :(
Maybe tomorrow.... :)
July 19, 2013 at 1:46PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, concerning the measurements, do you see my measurements of walls A, B and C on my drawing? Can you take these measurements without breaking it by room so this way I will know for sure that you have included the thickness of all the walls.

I made a mistake when I told you I moved the wall 2'-11", it was really 2'-2". Would that be too much too take out from your master bedroom? Do you have a maximum I can take-out or do you prefer I don't reduce it at all?

Is your husband saying that it should not be a problem to move the toilet to the top wall?

When you say you want shallow storage cabinet on each side of the vanity, does that mean they rest on the vanity and this space is still 7 ft wide? or does it mean that it is a 7 ft vanity plus more floor space for the shallow storage on each side of the vanity?

If you have the shallow storage on each side of the vanity, do you still need the 2 small built-ins I put on my last drawing?

Are you happy with a 36 in. wide shower or would you rather to have it a bit wider such as 39 or 42 in.?

I am on vacation right now and I don't have access to my drawings that are on my other computerat home, so I will check the comments on this discussion from time to time but I won't be able to make changes to my drawings until Monday morning.
July 19, 2013 at 2:26PM   
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kroze
Oh Suzanne, you are such a dear! Still helping me even on your vacation. What dedication!

Okay, Line A is 21' 4", Line B is 11' 10", Line C is 6' 3".

The toilet move is still a maybe. I talked with a plumber and got some information but he is not a contractor, as I thought he was, and admitted that he wasn't sure of his own advice. So, I'm still considering it. I'll investigate that further next week. Either way we do it, we won't need to move that short wall next to the toilet. I measured it today and it sits much closer to that wall than the linen closet wall. It can be turned 90 degrees with no problem. Same distance from the wall.

I am sorry but I did not notice the small built-ins in your drawing. I wasn't sure what they were. But the answer to your question is that I'm flexible on the exact length of the vanity. I just know from previous experience that 6" x 18" wide and 36 " high cabinets are invaluable in the vanity area. We will put electrical outlets inside of them and store the small electric toiletries there. I don't want the sinks extremely close together, but I don't need a lot of counter space either. So, I'll leave the length to you.

The 36" wide shower is a bit narrow if I am installing a built-in bench, which I am. Making it a bit wider will cut into the storage cabinet between it and the toilet room, but it is probably worth it. I don't want it to feel crowded with the bench. Or, another option would be a corner bench on the wall by the vanity and an extra sprayer fixture on the wall beside it.

On moving the bedroom wall by the walk-in closet, I am willing to consider it further, but my husband.... not so much so... He thinks the expense of moving the wall would not justify the extra space in the closet and bathroom. That is especially true if we make the narrow closet usable. There comes a point where practical economics outweighs a Hollywood closet. I love the idea, but probably won't be able to justify it. I think I will still have room for some limited built-ins in the current closet..... especially if we stretch it into the current bathroom space, which your drawings do.

I hope this answers all of your questions. Please don't hesitate to ask me anything you might find helpful.

Once again, I am overwhelmed that you are still helping me. Thank you so much!
July 19, 2013 at 3:53PM   
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kroze
My husband has weighed in again and said he prefers the shower to be turned the same way our tub is turned now. He doesn't want to be able to see inside the shower from the door to the bedroom. So, I'm not sure how that will affect your drawings.

That may require the toilet room door be moved and swing outward.
Sure wish we had a little more room to work with!!
July 19, 2013 at 4:20PM   
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suzanne_m
No problem Kroze, I love drawing plans. I am a lot better at seeing what could work when I draw it. I took note of your points above and will play with the plan on Monday when I will have access to my drawings then I will show it to you.

My only question at this moment is I am not sure about the measurement of wall C. In your initial drawing I see 7'-3" and in your comment above you say 6'-3". Was there a typo error somewhere?
July 19, 2013 at 7:32PM   
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kroze
I am so sorry. You are absolutely correct. My original measurement was wrong. It is 6' 3". I'm not sure how I missed it a foot, but I did.

Have a wonderful weekend. Talk with you again on Monday.
July 19, 2013 at 7:53PM   
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suzanne_m
Don't worry, that measurement is not critical to the floor plan.
July 19, 2013 at 8:34PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, if I can't make the shower wider, would you consider a foldable bench like the one below:


July 19, 2013 at 8:39PM   
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kroze
Yes I would.

I was just thinking about another potential arrangement. What if we take out the wall between the toilet room and linen closet, build a wall of built-ins across the back, put the shower in the current tub footprint but make it wider, and then split the space of the current shower between the vanity and closet? The current tub is 35" wide but we have 43" to the door frame entering the toilet room.

That really doesn't change much from the current configuration, which I don't particularly like, but it might end up being the most efficient use of the space.

Currently there is 36" between the closet door and bedroom door. As we extend the closet wall further into the bathroom we might want to consider how it affects that space. The current shower width is 45" but when you add the wall between the shower and vanity it comes to 48". The current vanity is 6' with another 42" of ledge to the back wall.

Hope this helps a little.
July 20, 2013 at 5:57AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I am a visual person. Would that be possible if you draw something really roughly to give me a better idea of the layout you are thinking? Don't worry about the dimensions. Once I see the layout, I will check on my drawing plan if there is space to place the things in the order and direction you drew.
July 20, 2013 at 8:09AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I think I came up with some very very good floor plans but I will know for sure on Monday when I can draw them using my floor plan software.

Here are the advantages if the toilet can move on the back wall. I will call this one plan A:

1 - Private shower's entrance from bathroom door
2 - Private shower' entrance from the toilet door
3 - Toilet is close to the vanity
4 - Linen closet is 3.5 wide
5 - The passage to the shower can be any where from 3 ft to 3.5 ft depending if you want a 3.25 ft wide shower or 3.5 ft and if you want a 3 ft or 3.25 ft toilet wide

Here are the differences If the toilet must stay where it currently is. This is plan B.

1- Can see the inside of the shower from the bathroom door
2- Can see the inside of the shower entrance from the toilet door
3- Toilet is far from the vanity
4- The linen closet and the passage to the toilet can be both 3 ft or a 2.5 ft linen closet with a 3.5 ft passage to the toilet.

Here are the options for the built-ins in the master closet and length of rod. Plan C is:
16 ft rod's length with with a 2.5 built-in

Plan D is:
12.25 ft rod’s length with a 5 ft built-in

Plan E is:
13.25 ft rod’s with a 4 ft built-in

Plans A and B are independent to plans C, D and E. This means you can have plan C, D or E with plan A or B.
July 20, 2013 at 10:37AM   
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kroze
This is a quick rough draft Suzanne. If it doesn't make sense, just let me know. The only thing I have done to the current layout is remove the wall between the toilet and linen closet, add cabinets, and put a shower where the tub is now. I also move the closet wall further into the bathroom, but don't know how much to move it. Also I've added a chest just outside the closet door and built-ins inside the closet.
July 20, 2013 at 10:45AM   
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kroze
We were typing at the same time. :)
I suppose I am visual also because I can't follow your written design. Sorry.
July 20, 2013 at 10:47AM   
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kroze
You can see inside the rear of the shower from the bedroom door, but not the far end where the shower head will be.
July 20, 2013 at 10:51AM   
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kroze
This gives a 43" x 6' 5" shower.
July 20, 2013 at 10:52AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze I just realized that the plan B I am talking about in my last comment is the same as the layout I drew few floors plans above. It is the one immediately above the comment from OnePlan where she pressed the like button.

There is only one exception: The right wall beside the vanity that is in the same direction as the vanity is pushed so it connects to the left wall of your master ensuite (wall B). This has the advantage that the inside of the shower is not seen from the bathroom's door. The other differences are that everything needs to be adjusted few inches here and there to be in accordance with the measurements your gave me this morning.

Plan A is the same as plan B except the toilet is moved to the back wall, so the door for the toilet is closer to the vanity and the linen closet is facing the entrance of the shower.

Plan D and E are also the same as the plan OnePlan likes except the built-in is different length to allow for some so extra rod beside the built-in.

In plan C the two rods are facing each other and the built-in is in between them on the back wall. Again, there is a bit of adjustment in length (few inches here and there) to be in accordance with the new measurements.

You can if you want have built-in facing the vanity. The trade-off is that the space in front of the vanity will be smaller.

Also, I agree with you that it is very practical to have shallow storage on each side of the vanity. I believe they can rest on your 7 ft vanity because you will still have 6 ft of vanity which is a good size for 2 sinks.
July 20, 2013 at 1:42PM   
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kroze
That is good Suzanne. I look forward to the drawings on Monday. There is nothing like seeing it drawn out. I really like the fact that you are giving me multiple options with the closet arrangement and size. I am not sure which would be the best. I will lean heavily upon your expertise. Also, the cabinet across from the vanity may not be the best idea. It just looked to me that there would be ample space for it. The bathroom is six and a half feet deep and the vanity will be around 20". But I don't want it to look crowded either.

I really hate losing all the space required to zig zag around to the toilet in your pics. That is why I thought it might save space to do it like my sketch. But you know better than I. Also, the shower in my drawing is larger than yours...... not that it makes a lot of difference.

You are being extremely patient with me and I appreciate that!
July 20, 2013 at 1:56PM   
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suzanne_m
You are very welcome Kroze. I hope I can drew something that will be close to what you wish. We will see what is the result at the end.
July 20, 2013 at 3:22PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, there is one measurement I forgot to confirm with you. It is from the very back wall on the left (wall B) to the right wall of the toilet area. I assumed it was 6'-4" (44 in. + 28 in. + 4 in. for the wall between the linen closet and the toilet area). Can you confirm?

Based on that measurement, you should get these dimensions (to be confirmed on Monday with a floor plan with my software):

Shower: 3'-6" x 6'-6"
Toilet area: 4'-10" x 5'-0"
Linen closet: 1'-6" x 5'-0"

Vanity: 7'-0" x 2'-0"
Built-in in front of vanity if you would like one: 1'-6" x 2'-0"
Space in front of the vanity: 4'-6" (That is if you don't have a built-in in front of vanity)

Closet: 10'-2" x 6'-6" with few options of length of rod and width of built-in. You have 2 very good options if you want it to look good or many other options if you find options 1 or 2 is not working for you:
Option 1 is the most pleasing to the eyes: 20'-4 length of rod with 3'-2" of built-in
Option 2 is very nice too: 15'-0" x 8'-6" of built-in

Advantages and disadvantages of this plan:
-The least costly because the toilet is not moved at all
-Very good dimensions of all items in the list above

Disadvantages:
-The vanity is not centered with the bathroom door. This is only for aesthetic but I see that in your floor plan in your current bathroom, the door is not center either. So if it does not bother you now, it will be ok with the new plan too.
-You can see the inside of the shower from the bathroom door and the toilet door
-The linen closet is inside the toilet area.

In summary, this is a very good plan because I find the advantages out weight the disadvantages.
July 20, 2013 at 11:19PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I offered 2 good options for the rod and built-in length above. When I looked again at your plan, you placed the rod and built-in the same way as was thinking for the option 2.

Also, I just thought of something if you would like privacy when taking your shower: If you put the hinges of the toilet's door on the other side and you swing the door outward, you could wide open the toilet door when you take your shower so that it covers the entrance of the shower. The only thing I don't know about that idea and maybe ReSquare Architecture + Construction or Da Vinci designs or Fred S can answer it is: would that after the toilet's door if it is exposed to the humidity of the shower?

If the privacy of the shower is not an issue, the way you have your door in your design is perfect. You open looking at the cabinet instead of the toilet. It is more inviting.
July 20, 2013 at 11:40PM   
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kroze
This is wonderful Suzanne. I think you have some excellent options.

The distance from the back linen closet wall to the front toilet room wall is 76 inches. That measurement incorporates the the wall between the two. So your measurement is correct.

I am out of time this morning. Will post more this afternoon.
July 21, 2013 at 6:16AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I drew 2 plans. The first one is what I had in mind and the second one is yours. I like yours a lot more because there are a lot more advantages compared to mine. Also when I drew mine with my software I have at home, I forgot to allow space for walls so space was smaller in general.

I brought some minor changes to yours so it is more pleasing to the eyes like center bathroom entrance to vanity and align walls in general.

Here are the advantages of my drawing compared to yours:
- Entrance to shower is not seen from bathroom entrance
- Entrance to shower is not seen from toilet entrance
- Linen closet is outside of the toilet area


Here are the advantages of your drawing compared to mine:
- Cost less because no need to move toilet and no need to move door from master bedroom to
bathroom
- Linen closet is bigger
- Toilet area is bigger
- Shower is bigger
- Space between the outside of shower and toilet is more spacious
- Master closet is bigger which means more rod's length and bigger built-in
- Added a built-in to store towels for easy access

I still need some measurements from you. This might change the plan a little bit. Here they are:
-Can you give me the measurement for wall D and E I added in your plan?
-What is the width of your toilet’s door without counting its frame?
-What is the width of your master bathroom door without counting the frame?

Other things you may consider:
-If your master bedroom swings towards the wall like in your floor plan you gave initially, you might consider to make it swing towards the closet. It would be a lot more inviting and easier to walk to the main area in the master bedroom.
-The closet at the entrance can be deeper if you wish.
-You may like the idea of having a long mirror somewhere on the built-in inside the master closet.
-You could move the vanity 1’-2” to be in line with the left wall of the toilet area. It would look a bit nicer and you would get a bigger built-in beside the shower. However, this would cause to move your door from the bathroom entrance and your master closet would be smaller. It is probably not worth it.


Question:
-Where would you like to have your bench in the shower? Below the jet? Beside the jet? Or in the drying area?
July 21, 2013 at 8:02PM   
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suzanne_m
Here's another option where the linen cabinet is outside the toilet area. However, the disadvantages that it will cost some more to move the toilet and the linen closet is smaller.
July 21, 2013 at 9:40PM   
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suzanne_m
The linen closet should be a 24 in. standard door instead of a double bi-fold door.
July 21, 2013 at 9:44PM   
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suzanne_m
Here is the option if you would like to align the bathroom's built-in with its facing wall. I also increased the depth of the closet in the bedroom in case you would still like to store big items.
July 21, 2013 at 10:07PM   
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suzanne_m
One last one before I go to bed: I swing the doors the direction I think it should be.
July 21, 2013 at 10:21PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, I must get back to you later. My Dad is in hospital dying. I am going out of State.
July 22, 2013 at 4:58AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I am so sorry. My prayers are to you and your dad.
July 22, 2013 at 6:18AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I am sorry that you are having a very sad and stressful time right now. Losing a loved one is not easy. I understand that you don’t have your master ensuite in mind. Let me know, when you feel ready to look at this project again. At that time, if you feel overwhelmed with all these floor plans, I will make a summary of advantages and disadvantages of the three floor plans I find are the most worth considering.

I hope that you will find some peace through that difficult time.
July 22, 2013 at 10:37AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, it might take a while before you read this comment but I will post it now so you will have it when you
are ready to read it. The last image are the options that I reviewed and put together with advantages and disadvantages.

I will need to know the size of the current doors without their frame and their location (including the frame). See walls D and E on the option 1 drawing. I may need to make some minor changes to the floor plans so you can re-use the current doors. I would, if I were you, have wide doors for the closet at the entrance and the linen closet for easy access inside. I drew a closet 3’-0” deep at the entrance for storing big items but you can make it 2’-0” if you want to use it for your cloths.

I send my prayers to your father and your family.

Suzanne
July 24, 2013 at 3:35PM   
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kroze
Thank you so much Suzanne. I have just returned home. Dad has miraculously dodged the bullet for at least a while..... he is 91. I believe in the power of prayer and am grateful for all the prayers on his behalf.

I am very impressed with your drawings and am still trying to ingest the details.

The toilet room door is 24 inches, 29 1/2 including the frame. The little doors from the bedroom into the bathroom are 32 inches across, including the frame it is 38 inches. The door into the master closet is 24 inches, 29 inches including the frame. Entrance to master bedroom door is 32 inches, 37 1/2 inches including frame.

I notice you have changed the location of the bedroom door. How does that help us? The tiny alcove outside the bedroom door currently has my grandfather clock which looks nice from the den. And I don't have a good place to put that clock elsewhere...... I have two grandfather clocks. I have one upstairs at the top of the stairwell.

Are those towel racks just inside the bathroom door on either size? If so, I'm not sure they are going to be that functional. I will have small towel rings or racks by each of the sinks..... hopefully on the wall next to the mirrors. I will also have a towel rack just inside the shower. At some point I must have a hinged mirror that will allow me to view the back of my hair, as I have familia tremors and cannot hold a hand mirror. Also, I would like to have a built-in clothes hamper somewhere.

Am I asking for too much?
July 28, 2013 at 4:19PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I am very happy about the news of your father, I was thinking of you the last few days.

Below is the plan (option 3) with changes about the size of the doors. I, initially, drew the plan with large doors because I feel it is more luxurious but the plan works fine with the current doors you have. Yes the door in the entrance of your bedroom can stay where it is now. I just made a mistake when I read your initial plan. I thought the door was swinging from the left wall and not the top wall.

Can you give me the dimensions of wall D and E on the plan below. The wall D is not important to the drawing except that I try to have all walls the correct size. I am sure the wall E in the floor plan below is bigger than what you currently have. Can you give me the size of that wall you have? This would tell you by how much you would need to move the door to the master bathroom. For functionality, I think your door for the master bathroom can stay where is it but it is a lot nicer if you can have your door centered with the vanity.

The difference between option 2 and 3 above is the size of the built-in. By enlarging the built-in it made the walls aligned which is a lot nicer ... like the vanity has not a part in the shower area. It would look better when you get out of the shower or coming out from the toiIet.

I put the two towels racks beside the bathroom door because I thought there would be no room if you have the shallow storage on each side of the sinks. I agree with you that it is not very practical. I just forgot that you could have rings resting on the vanity or screwed on the wall beside the mirror.

As for the hamper, do you think you could have it in the bottom part of the built-in beside the shower? or if you go with option one, you could have the linen closet on the upper part and have hamper on the bottom part.
July 28, 2013 at 5:25PM   
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kroze
Wall E is only 4 inches from the corner wall to the door frame. (7 inches from the actual door) Wall D, which I assume is the width of the walkway into the bedroom is 39 inches.

I like the idea of the hamper being in the built-in beside the shower. Great idea!

I am struggling with a smaller walk-in closet. However, you make a lot of sense when it comes to centering the bedroom door with the vanity. Aesthetically that sounds attractive.

I really like this last drawing but wonder about the size of the linen closet beside the toilet. It is much smaller than the one you drew with the toilet staying in its current configuration. More cabinets are always good..... especially if I am losing some space in the closet. :)

Hope this is helpful to you.
July 28, 2013 at 6:16PM   
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kroze
I awoke this morning with a new idea. Do you think it would work to expand the small narrow closet into a walk-in closet? I don't like the idea of a long blank wall at the entrance to the bedroom, but thought an angled wall/door into closet might be more aesthetically pleasing. What do you think? Does it gain me much?

On my above post, I have difficulty reading the small print of your drawings and hope that I was able to provide the necessary information.
July 29, 2013 at 8:35AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
I like the idea but put pocket doors or sliders you will get even more space
July 29, 2013 at 10:33AM   
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kroze
How do you put pocket doors on a corner door?
July 29, 2013 at 10:53AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this is the floor plan with a walk-in closet at the entrance. I enlarged the writing so it might be easier for you to read my measurements etc.

This plan is a mix of option 1 where the linen closet is inside the toilet area but has a double door centered in front of the vanity. However, the idea of this added walk-in closet can be done with any of the other floor plans above.

In my previous drawings, the closet had the dimensions of 5'-11" long x 3'-0" deep to allow storing big items. This means the wall when you enter the bedroom had to be 3'-4". But if you wish to use it for clothes instead, it could be 2’-0” deep instead and the wall when you enter would be 2’-4”.

In the plan below, I drew a walk-in closet for hanging clothes. You would still face a 2’-4” wall when you enter in the bedroom. However, having an angled wall with doors might be more inviting than seeing the corner of the wall where the toilet is currently.

The other advantage you would have is a bigger closet 9’-3” linear instead of 5’-11”. The disadvantage is your master bedroom is smaller. This may not be a problem since your bedroom is large anyway. While I was typing this comment, I saw that Da Vinci suggested a pocket door or a sliding door. I liked that idea so the drawing is shown with a 32 in. double pocket door.
July 29, 2013 at 10:54AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, my first reaction was like yours: How can we have a pocket door with an angled wall? The answer is you have to be careful to the size of the door that will be sliding inside the wall. In the drawing above, the wall is 5'-6" long. With calculation, a 1'-4" wide door can slide on each side of the wall.
July 29, 2013 at 10:57AM   
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kroze
Yes, I like it! Da Vinci, where have you been? :)

Suzanne, the measurements on that corner closet are not right. Not sure how I keep confusing you.. The back wall is 75 inches across. The side wall (adjoining the toilet room) is 68 inches.

Yes, you are correct that the master bedroom is small already and this will cut out a bit more of the space. It is a real dilemma for me. But I think the corner door will give the illusion of more space...?
And the fact that you have moved the bathroom door further away from the corner will allow for that wall to be more useful. I can at least place a small table on that wall, which now cannot accommodate any furnishing.

All in all it is shaping up quite nicely.

Da Vinci, would you change anything in the bathroom arrangement?
July 29, 2013 at 11:15AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
It looks good , the walk in closet to the left put a pocket door there as well it will give you so much more room . I have been working like crazy this is my first day to look at houzz in a few days ......
July 29, 2013 at 11:34AM   
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PRO
Da Vinci designs
and if you can, do it in the toilet room as well. Less doors to fight with if you need to use them you have them if not they are hidden away
July 29, 2013 at 11:37AM   
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kroze
hmmm...... the toilet room door gets closed frequently at our house.. :)

The closet doors never get closed (unfortunately). The main door into the bathroom is rarely closed.

I am use to pocket doors because I have many in my motorhome. It is true that they require literally no space, but they can be a hassle to close..... always break my fingernails.... : /
But then, if the door is rarely closed, there is no big problem with pocket doors. I agree that the divided louvered doors are a nuisance. Accordion doors are even worse. But when it comes to doors which don't require a lot of use, all options are on the table.
July 29, 2013 at 11:47AM   
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Fred S
Consider a cafe door on the double door for the angled closet. They are self closing. By the way, you could always put self closing hinges on other closet doors. A double 16" pocket door is extremely hard to adjust.1/16" adjustment on a single 32" door at the top moves the bottom about 5/32" while the same on a 16" door moves it 3/8". Trying to get both sides lined up to meet properly when they are closed and adjusting them every time the humidity changes is a problem. They would stay open not just because of laziness, but because they don't look good closed.
July 29, 2013 at 12:12PM   
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Fred S
Another option is to use door switches for the lights. Instead of turning off the switch, you have to shut the door. Good behavioral training ;)
July 29, 2013 at 12:22PM   
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kroze
:) electricity isn't THAT expensive..... !

Thanks for the suggestions, Fred. I appreciate all input from everyone.

The idea of cafe doors would have never crossed my mind.
July 29, 2013 at 12:30PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this is a layout with colored walls with their dimensions. The colors does not mean anything. They are only there because I wanted to make it clear where the measure starts and where it ends. Can you verify these and let me know which ones are not ok?

I put pocket doors but cafe door is another option. However, if you put cafe door, I would put a window on it to avoid bumping on the person on the other side.

Also, I agree that the linen closet is quite a lot bigger when kept inside the toilet area. My only concern is the smell. If you decide to go that way, I would install a good ventilation in that room. I am not sure about what doors you could install for the linen closet but I would try to find the ones that are the most hermetic so it can block the smell.
July 29, 2013 at 12:33PM   
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kroze
Do ALL cafe doors self close? When I searched on the internet the pictures look much like my double doors leading into the master bath...... but they do not self close.

I assumed you were referring to swinging doors..... no?
July 29, 2013 at 12:33PM   
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kroze
Wall 3 and the interior of wall 8 are the same length, which is 5 feet. However, the outside of wall 8 is 5 feet, 4 inches because it includes the thickness of the wall behind the toilet. It gets confusing doesn't it? As I look at the color coding it looks like you have it correct.

Wall 9 is 68 inches (5 feet, 8 inches), not 6 feet, four 4 inches.

Wall 6 is 20 feet, 5 inches.

Everything else looks good.

I am using my magnifying glass to read these tiny numbers. :)
July 29, 2013 at 12:48PM   
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Fred S
They swing both directions and, as far as I know, all self closing. Double acting hinges, gravity hinges (will stay open until you give them a nudge) and many spring loaded pivot. I suggested the corner closet because you could do a hing that stayed open when you are in it, but with a quick bump will close them. And it would not be too likely that 2 people are using it at the same time from different directions.
July 29, 2013 at 12:55PM   
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kroze
I agree Fred. I like your idea. And two people will not be using it.

I am beginning my materials list and I will definitely add that one. I think I will like it better than the pocket door. And I am sure it will be easier to install than the pocket door.
July 29, 2013 at 1:02PM   
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Fred S
Be aware that most 16" door slabs are half bifold doors and are 1" shorter in height. Careful design considerations needed. The header and trim have to be at the same height as the standard door next to it, or that part will look wrong. This is true for pocket doors of that size as well as bifold and swinging doors.
July 29, 2013 at 1:11PM   
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Fred S
Motion sensors also make great closet light switches.
July 29, 2013 at 1:21PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I am making the corrections to the drawing. There is one that I don't understand: Wall 9. In your last comment, you told me it is 5 ft 8 in. If you look at your comment that is dated 8 days ago (the one immediately after the one that is dated 9 days ago), you say that 76 in. is correct. Can you double check what is the lentgh of wall 9 (the width of the linen closet room + toilet room + the wall in between)?
July 29, 2013 at 1:28PM   
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kroze
You poor dear. I am so sorry. These walls are very confusing because of the jogs.

Yes, your wall 9 dimension is correct in the drawing. I was measuring from the back wall of the narrow closet which is not the same. It is my mistake. The jog in the back wall is confusing to me. The jog takes place at the junction of the narrow closet and the linen closet.

Does this make sense?

So your drawing is correct. : / My bad
July 29, 2013 at 2:07PM   
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suzanne_m
This is the same plan as above but with the correct measurements. If you see mistakes any where, let me know. It is better to fix them as soon as we realized.

I put a double door on the closet at the entrance. This could be an option, if you feel that pocket doors could be a problem. I am not sure about cafe door there because it might touch the clothes when you open the doors and can make them fall on the floor. It could not be a problem if you put narrow doors.

I drew a pocket door in the master closet but it could be a cafe door if you prefer.
July 29, 2013 at 2:36PM   
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kroze
That is absolutely perfect Suzanne. I love it.

We won't worry about odors in the linen closet because I will put the linens in the closet between the shower and vanity. I will use the larger closet in the toilet room for suitcases and rarely used items.

Now is there a way to print this out on my printer?
July 29, 2013 at 2:56PM   
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suzanne_m
This is the same with the linen closet outside the toilet area.

If you don't mind, you can give me your email address and I can send you the last 2 floor plans. Once you receive them, delete your comment that contains your email address.
July 29, 2013 at 3:03PM   
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kroze
Thank you again Suzanne. You have been so giving of your time and expertise.

Here are a few "before" photos I just took. Very tacky, but we will see the great improvement later!
July 29, 2013 at 3:29PM   
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suzanne_m
You are very welcome Kroze. I hope the professionals will be ok with this plan and the final result will be to your expectations.

Thank you for the 'before' pictures. I will be glad to see the 'after' ones. If you can post some pictures from time to time with the progress.

Good luck.
July 29, 2013 at 3:52PM   
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kroze
Thank you. I will do so.

It will take me several weeks to make my materials selection and get the job ready for bids.
July 29, 2013 at 4:01PM   
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suzanne_m
I just read that the closet in the bathroom will be used for suit cases and rarely used items. If so, you could enlarge that closet to 2'-6" deep. You will still have 3'-6" width for your toilet area.
July 29, 2013 at 4:08PM   
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suzanne_m
Sorry, one last comment. I would make the depth of the closet 2'-4" so the toilet will stay centered in its own area .i.e. 1'-10" on each side from the center of the toilet.
July 29, 2013 at 4:22PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, how far out does the shower wall come from the vanity?

I am looking at decorative tile patterns.
July 29, 2013 at 4:26PM   
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kroze
Okay. That deep cabinet for storage will be great. And I will keep the toilet centered!
July 29, 2013 at 4:27PM   
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suzanne_m
The wall between the shower and built-in is 3'-6" the depth of the vanity is 2'-0". I will post the floor plan with more precision as it comes. When you want to print the newest version. Let me know, I have your email address so I will be able to send it to you.
July 29, 2013 at 4:33PM   
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kroze
Okay, so my decorative tile pattern will have to be inside the shower but visible from the door.

Oh, you put sliding doors in the toilet room cabinet. That is great! I like it better than the folding doors.
July 29, 2013 at 5:08PM   
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suzanne_m
For the closet at the entrance of the bathroom, you can use the door you already have for that closet but if you decide to have 32" wide double door for the closet at the entrance, you can use the one you already have for the master bathroom. Then you could buy a bigger one for the master bathroom. Keep in mind though that if you do that, the right wall beside the bathroom's door will be smaller.
July 29, 2013 at 5:44PM   
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kroze
My husband and I have just decided that we want a pocket door from the bedroom into the bathroom. It just makes sense since we never close that door and it is in the way. We want pocket doors whenever we don't frequently open and close the door. That includes the bathroom closet door. The only one in question is the toilet room door. I don't want a pocket door there.
July 29, 2013 at 5:49PM   
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suzanne_m
Ok. The only thing you need to take into consideration when you put pocket door is you cannot have electrical or anything inside the wall where the door will slide. This means, your light switch for the bathroom will probably be around 18 inches from the door.
July 29, 2013 at 5:53PM   
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Fred S
On the other hand, you may want to do the toilet closer to this.
July 29, 2013 at 5:54PM     
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kroze
Couldn't I put it on the other side of the door? The pocket door will only slide one direction. We don't want to split the door if it is pocket.
July 29, 2013 at 5:55PM   
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kroze
What have you done Fred? I don't understand it.
July 29, 2013 at 5:56PM   
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Fred S
If you put the toilet 1'-4" from the corner, you could put up grab bars and take down the closet doors, should the need arise.
July 29, 2013 at 6:00PM   
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Fred S
Just in case someone ends up in a wheel chair for a while, the toilet should be close enough to the wall for grab bars. Not centered in the room.
July 29, 2013 at 6:04PM   
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kroze
Fred, it is a small enough area that grab bars will be convenient when the toilet is centered.
July 29, 2013 at 6:13PM   
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Fred S
"The center line of the toilet must be between 16" – 18" (407 – 455 mm) from the wall. This distance ensures that grab bars can be effectively used to maneuver one’s self as needed." http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bradleycorp.com%2FADAguide.pdf&ei=Oxb3UdCjHoHhiALrkoGoBg&usg=AFQjCNElrPvRXqiXiQQoMbgB9Tg2lnp6cg

You can get a bar that mounts to the floor and off the side wall a ways if you really want it centered, but that diminishes maneuvering room. I don't think you need to follow all the guidelines to the letter, but if the grab bar is too far away, you cannot get any leverage to lift yourself up and over.
July 29, 2013 at 6:39PM   
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kroze
Thanks Fred. I will take that into consideration.
July 29, 2013 at 6:42PM   
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Fred S
Mostly just pointing it out so you can get some good structural backing to mount things to inside the walls while they are open. I hope you never need to actually put up the bars.
July 29, 2013 at 6:49PM   
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kroze
hhmmm..... 2 x 4 mountings won't do it?
July 29, 2013 at 6:51PM   
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kroze
Hey Da Vinci, will $20k do this job in Texas?
July 29, 2013 at 6:53PM   
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Fred S
Do you mean if the studs just happen to end up in the right spots for the grab bar lengths? I prefer to mount horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 boards inside the wall between the studs to ensure I get a solid anchor.
July 29, 2013 at 6:57PM   
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kroze
Grab bars are fairly long and should be able to fine 2 x 4 anchors........ no?
July 29, 2013 at 6:59PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, do you want a pocket door for the closet at the entrance of the bedroom? If yes, do you want it double door or one single door that is not centered?
July 29, 2013 at 7:11PM   
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kroze
No, I don't think so, but I am not sure. What do you think? I am open to suggestions on that one. If pocket doors are appropriate, I will definitely consider them. That will be my husbands closet..... usually messy, rarely closes doors, etc......
July 29, 2013 at 7:18PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, I must design the cabinetry. Can you help me with that? : )
July 29, 2013 at 7:24PM   
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suzanne_m
What kind of help would you like with the cabinetry?
July 29, 2013 at 7:26PM   
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Fred S
Heavy duty grab bars designed for this are not adjustable. ( maybe you can find something, but more expensive.) The chances of having studs in the right place on both ends is probably 100/1. Also, the screw pattern is about 2" wide and a stud is only 1.5" wide.
July 29, 2013 at 7:28PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, I need to decide where to put drawers, where to put cabinets, and where to put shelves. And then there is that pesky hamper.....

I think I want to have a floor level shelf in the closet built-ins. .... not flooring.

I am actually considering a drawer unit in the diagonal closet. I realize the angle must be taken into consideration. Maybe narrow shelves for shoes in the area not capable of drawers. Then a small bank of drawers with cabinets above. That closet will be my husband's and he needs drawers. If I put cabinetry to the left, there will be plenty of room for hanging clothes on the other wall. I can put a double rod...... upper and lower.

I think we have created ample room for storage. The next step is how to utilize it.
July 29, 2013 at 7:42PM   
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felizlady
Open a door from the closet into the bedroom, close the old door into the bathroom. Enlarge the shower across old closet door. If you remove the tub, replace it with a wall of cabinets, including drawers. Put slide-out shelf/drawers under the sinks or replace the cabinet with a cabinet with drawers in the center. You save if you don't move the plumbing.
July 29, 2013 at 7:58PM   
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felizlady
Regarding the narrow but deep closet...close the original door and open a new door on the wide side into the bedroom.
July 29, 2013 at 8:01PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, you have a lot of space and a lot of options for the storage in the closets. I will try to come up with something.
I would recommend that you start with what you need to store: Presently, how much rod in inches you utilize for long garments? How much rod in inches you utilize for short garments for you and your husband?
How much space you currently utilize for t-shirts or things that go in drawers?
Can you tell me what is working and what is not working in your current master closet?
Do you have lots of shoes?
July 29, 2013 at 8:07PM   
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suzanne_m
If the diagonal closet is going to be your husband's closet and he does not usually close the door, I would probably opt for a cafe door but I must tell you I have never used one so I can't tell you if they are annoying when opened in a small area.

Below are the drawing with 3 different sizes of cafe doors so you can see how much close they open towards the clothes that are hung.

One other option you could do is to store your out-of-season clothes in that closet and keep only the in-season in the master closet. This way the diagonal closet's door will stay close all the time.
July 29, 2013 at 8:19PM   
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suzanne_m
I forgot to attach the drawings:
July 29, 2013 at 8:22PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I just recall that you said you live in TX so I guess you don't have winter clothes like I have in Canada. This means the in-season and out-season closet would not work.
July 29, 2013 at 8:35PM   
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suzanne_m
For the hamper, I was thinking you could have something built with the same concept of the Hampton Bay tilt-out hamper:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008EGBE2/ref=asc_df_B0008EGBE22616797?tag=thefind0168787-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B0008EGBE2&linkCode=asn
July 29, 2013 at 8:41PM   
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cathieg
I have read almost every comment and suggestion and although I am unsure about regulations and plumbing etc, I have a design that you may be able to consider. My husband and I have recently renovated our master bath and closet and we decided on a walk-in shower. We both have back problems and I have fibromyalgia, so we thought as we age this will suit us quite nicely. Ours is not quite like my very hasty sketch, as we did not have as much space, but this is simple and wheelchair accessible, perhaps. You'll have to forgive me but the conversions from feet and inches to metric got too much (I'm Australian) so I only wrote the shower length as a guide. I hope you enjoy having a look. On a more personal note, I have a 94 year old father and 89 year old mother with dementia, still living in there own home, and things have been particularly difficult for some time now, so I understand and pray for your situation.
July 30, 2013 at 2:39AM   
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kroze
Thank you cathleg for your interest and drawing. Since my bedroom is already quite small for a master, I don't really want to enlarge the bathroom. My husband is very conscience to keeping a layout that will resell easily one day. Your closet arrangement is very interesting. I will keep it in mind. Best wishes to your parents.

Felizlady, thank you for your input. We considered changing the master closet door into the bedroom earlier. The problem is that it would greatly restrict my ability to arrange the bedroom furniture efficiently...... too many doors into the room..... plus windows... We also considered moving the narrow closet door to the long side. However, Suzanne's current arrangement gives me more linear space and I like the overall appearance of it...... it is a little more interesting than the flat closet.

Suzanne, the more I think about it the more I like the cafe doors option on the angle closet. It makes sense for a variety of reasons. I am very excited about that.... and I probably will opt for the small double doors instead of one larger single door.

I also like the tilt out hamper idea. Maybe we will just put closed door cabinets above it for the linens.

I also like the idea of making the cabinet in the toilet room deeper. I have a number of large items that will fit nicely into a deeper cabinet. I might want to make one side of the bottom compartment to be tall enough to store an upright vacuum. That entire wall can be chopped up into various sizes of cubicles. The possibilities are many. I am thinking that the folding doors will give me maximum use of the area. Larger items will be easier to stow and retrieve if the doors are out of the way.

The real struggle will be in the clothes closets. I hate to admit my current arrangement, but I have a cheap plastic shelf from Lowes in there. It is about six feet tall and has four shelves. That is where we put our shorts, sweats, sweaters and miscellaneous items. I also have a very small wooden chest on the wall adjacent to the shower. It has three drawers where we keep underwear. I tend to hang anything I can. Currently the long wall has a double rod and the back wall has a single rod. I have blocked off part of the double rod space next to the chest with a stackable shoe shelf. And yes, I do have a fair number of shoes.... not Imelda Marcos numbers, but definitely more than my husband.

Hope this is helpful.

I'm an early to bed person, so that is why I seem to disappear just as the thread heats up..... : )
July 30, 2013 at 5:50AM   
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kroze
Suzanne, I have been meditating about the arrangement inside the angled closet. If I put a narrow and tall chest on the left side, it will need to be about a foot away from the end wall so the drawers will have clearance without hitting the door. I was thinking that a series of shelves might be good for that end of the closet. Shoes and sweaters could be stored on those narrow shelves. BTW, the ceiling is very high in that closet. The other walk-in closet has an unusual coffered ceiling which follows the roofline. There are no rooms above the master suite.
July 30, 2013 at 6:08AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I agree with you that bi-fold door will give you better access inside the closet. The only thing is that the closet should not be deeper that 2'-1" so you can fully open the doors. See the plan below.

As for the cafe double door for the diagonal closet, if your husband is comfortable with that idea, I would say go ahead. I am a bit hesitant because these doors swing by themselves and personally I would prefer to deal with only one cafe door that swings by itself than 2. I am saying that but I am really not sure since I have never tried those. If your husband is not sure I would recommend that you start a new thread and ask houzzers what they think about cafe doors in a small area. Maybe people with experience will tell you the pros and cons.

I, too, like the idea of the Hampton Bay hamper concept. However, I read the reviews and the biggest con is that the inside is too small. If you are building a tilt-out hamper in your built-in, I would recommend making it one large one instead of two.

For the drawers in the diagonal closet, I would try to have the least amount because you need a lot of space in front of them which you don't have: you need the space to open it + the space to stand in front of it. Do you think a bank of 3 drawers let say 12 in. wide would be enough drawers? Most of the clothing can go on the shelves.

Also, I like the closet layout cathieg posted. I will try to draw something close to that with the measurements of your closet. Do you need more hampers than the one you have beside the shower? Would you like to have 2 in your closet’s built-in as well?

Last, I would recommend that at this point, since you like very much the layout of the master ensuite, I would have a plumber coming into your house just to make sure that all the plumbing can be done at the location shown on the floor plan. Any change to the layout may have impact on the virtual shopping you are doing right now.
July 30, 2013 at 8:20AM   
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kroze
Okay, one hamper is ample. I wash often.

I like the idea of asking houzzers about the cafe doors. Think I'll do that!

It seems to me that there would be ample room to have drawers in the angled closet if recessed away from the bedroom wall. With the cafe doors, they can easily be closed for rummaging in drawers. Am I missing something? The chest would not encroach on the hanging space on the back wall, which could have a double rod. We are working with 64 inches minus the space required for the hanging clothes on the rod at the back. Do we allow 18-20 inches for the hanging clothes? Take off another 15 inches for shelves, you still have about 30 inches for a chest with as many drawers as you want. No?
July 30, 2013 at 8:52AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, again I am a visual, can you do a sketch of your explanation above? I don't understand what recessed away from the bedroom wall means?

Also, I meant to tell you that I changed the door to be 2'-6" wide for your toilet just to see how much space it uses but I forgot to change the writing. On that plan, it is a 2'-6" door not a 2'-0" like it is written.

One other advantage you would have if you have a plumber coming in just to verify that the plumbing can be done where in these locations is you can have an early idea about the cost of doing the plumbing work so you will have a better idea of what you have left in your budget for the rest. The cost might not be exact since you may end up choosing someone else but it is a start and you will have something to compare when you seriously shop for someone to do the work.
July 30, 2013 at 9:12AM   
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suzanne_m
Oops, I forgot to tell you that I will try to draw something for your closet with more the idea of one built-in on the right side of your closet and rods on the other 2 walls to keep the cost down.
July 30, 2013 at 9:14AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, do you already have the chest you plan to put in the diagonal closet? If yes, what is its dimensions? I will draw it in the closet on the floor plan.
July 30, 2013 at 9:22AM   
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kroze
I thought the built-in in my closet was on the left wall. It doesn't really matter to me which side it is on. How does that influence the cost?

Also, does it matter the size of the toilet door? I currently have a two foot door. Should I change it?

On the plumber, I don't see any big obstacles to our current plan. The big cost would have been to move the toilet. That will save a couple of thousand dollars and keep the integrity of the foundation in tact. The shower will have the basic footprint of the tub, so no big change there. And the sinks will be in near proximity to their current location. I know nothing about plumbing but that doesn't sound like a big ticket fix. If I need to get a plumber out here, I will. But I'm not sure it is worth the cost. The bidding will give me the cost. I can't imagine that it would change my design. Am I foolish?

Here is a rough sketch of the angle closet concept.
July 30, 2013 at 9:38AM   
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kroze
No I don't have a chest for the diagonal closet. I want it built-in.
July 30, 2013 at 9:39AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this is one attempt at a layout for the diagonal closet. I followed your suggestion above. I think to have some reasonable minimum space for your husband to move around when a drawer is opened, the chest should be 2'-0" wide or less.

Also, at my house, something that bothers me a lot is that the shelf that is installed above the rod is not high enough. I always have to fight to put a hanger on the rod. So if you install a shelf above the rod, make sure that you have at least 2 inches between the top of the rod and the bottom of the shelf.

I read in one of your last comment that the inside of the diagonal closet is 5'-4". According to my calculations, when I drew the plan, it should be 5'-5". Can you double check that for me? I think I came up with that number when you told me that the length of wall 6 is 20'-5". It is probably not important now but it will be when you order the custom built-in. What is important for now is the length of wall 9 because the calculations of the shower, built-in, vanity and master closet and location of bathroom door are based on the length of that wall.

As for the built-in in your closet, I think we are talking about the same wall ... it is on the right wall when I look at the drawing but it is on the left wall when you enter in the closet from the bathroom. For functionality, either side will do but I think it would be better if it is on the right side when you enter in the closet from your bathroom so the view will be nicer from the bathroom door.
July 30, 2013 at 10:34AM   
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suzanne_m
No the size of the door for the toilet does not matter unless you want it functional for a wheel chair. I think if your house is not built for easy access in a wheel chair, it does not make a difference to have one more door that is not working for a wheel chair. I would keep it as is. That will keep the cost down since you won't need to buy a new door or pay someone to enlarge the frame around the door.
July 30, 2013 at 10:42AM   
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kroze
Love the drawing Suzanne. That is exactly what I want. And I will be sure and remember to watch the clearance between rod and upper shelf.

The problem with the dimensions of the wall in the diagonal closet is the thickness of the wall which is currently there on the narrow closet. I can't measure through the wall so I measure the distance from the bedroom door to the outside corner of the closet. Then I measure the distance of the jog in the wall. By doing it that way I get 68 inches. However, the thickness of a new wall will be subtracted from that length. So, whether it is 5 feet 4 inches or 5 feet 5 inches remains to be seen. Hope that makes sense.

On my closet I am glad you thought of the appearance from the bathroom door. You are right about putting the built-ins on the right wall as you walk into the closet. I use a lot of hanging space but much of it can be on double rods. I don't need a lot of single rod space.
July 30, 2013 at 10:53AM   
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suzanne_m
Don't worry about the 5'-4" or 5'-5". It could be because your measuring tape was a bit loose when you measured the 20'-5" long wall. If you measure it again and come up with 20'-4" it will explain that one inch difference I have in my drawing.

I have other stuff to do so I will try to stay away from the computer for until late tonight. It is really hard for me since I am so addicted to houzz but if you have no answer from me in the next few hours it is because I have some success at resisting to go on houzz and do my house chores instead :(

Have a good day.
July 30, 2013 at 11:07AM   
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kroze
You too Suzanne. I am so glad you are addicted to houzz....

BTW, I started a new discussion on the cafe doors.
July 30, 2013 at 11:16AM   
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kroze
Okay, mystery solved. It is 20 feet 5 inches to the point where my bedroom carpet meets my hardwood floor. It is a little less than that to the wall.......something a little less than an inch difference. The carpeting actually goes slightly into the door threshold. So I suppose the shorter measurement is the safest to go with.

I am contemplating carrying the hardwood into the bedroom with this remodel. You know...... one thing leads to another.... : )

And I think I want the bathroom tile that looks a bit like hardwood flooring. What do you think?
July 30, 2013 at 11:21AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, would you like me to post the image below for you on your new thread or do you prefer to keep it general?
July 30, 2013 at 11:23AM   
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PRO
custom-tiles.com
Custom printed floor tiles which combine the look of wood and marble are now available. Photos below show one design and this can be altered for wider wood borders, a different marble pattern/color, and several other designs factors. These tiles will provide significant labor cost savings. We also show a photo of other custom printed floor tiles to indicate our experience and technical abilities. To see how durable our floor tiles are as revealed by ASTM tests (with comparisons to hardwood and resilient flooring), go to http://custom-tiles.com/floor-tiles-durability
July 30, 2013 at 11:32AM   
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davonaa
Dark brown or white or maybe even black with smoke marble tiles would look perfect for a bathroom like that.
July 30, 2013 at 11:34AM   
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kroze
Yes Suzanne, that would be very helpful to post that pic on the thread.
July 30, 2013 at 11:41AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I think too, that we should go with the 5'-4" measurement. In the image below I changed a bit the shape of the closet by addind 7 inches on the bottom wall which also change the angle of the angled wall. I also split in half the width available for a chest and shelves. Both are 1'-10" wide. I think it gives a bit more room for your husband to move around.

Are you ok with having the bottom wall 7 in. longer like shown in the image below?
July 30, 2013 at 11:42AM   
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kroze
I have a sizable stash of used granite which I removed from the kitchen during that remodel. I am thinking of using it in the bath renovation. It is baltic brown and probably would not look good with the marble pictured in your post custom-tile. I don't like baltic brown but don't want to waste it. I can't sell it for anything.

The walls and built-ins will be painted a light color to avoid a "cave" effect.

But thank you for your suggestion above. I will peruse the website later.
July 30, 2013 at 11:46AM   
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kroze
Yes Suzanne, that configuration will work fine. Thanks.
July 30, 2013 at 11:48AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this is the floor plan with the changes on the diagonal closet.
July 30, 2013 at 12:08PM   
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kroze
Terrific! My husband will love it! Your drawings have inspired him. He is also a visual person and cannot follow my verbal pictures.... : )
July 30, 2013 at 12:19PM   
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Fred S
If I kept up with this correctly, the toilet door is actually 2'-6"? This works good enough for some temporary wheel chair use. You can always remove the door from the hinges to make it more convenient at such a time.

Moving plumbing is kind of relative. As an example,If you need to cut some concrete to move a vent in a wall, it doesn't cost much more to move the toilet 6" at the same time. Moving a toilet 6" can be way cheaper than moving it across the room. It appears that you have done a great job of keeping the plumbing costs down, but it is hard to keep up. If the shower and toilet walls are not moved from where they are now, you are doing good. The vent pipes coming up the walls are the hidden hurdle. It may require leaving a small section of wall on the back side of the toilet room closet. See if you can figure out if one of the three walls around the toilet is thicker than 4.5" with sheetrock, or look in the attic for the largest pipe coming up through the wall.

The smaller width of double doors makes them more convenient for the angled closet. I use the hardware that will stay open at 90 degrees until bumped. This allows me to push one into the closet and swing the other out and it will stay open and out of the way. The other option is an out swing door with self closing hinges. This could leave someone inside in the dark, therefore, I suggest a motion sensor for the light switch.
July 30, 2013 at 1:06PM   
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kroze
Thanks Fred. The toilet room door is 2 feet, but if you add the facing it is 2 feet 6 inches.

The wall between the toilet and bedroom will not move. The wall between the toilet and linen closet will be removed and replaced with cabinets on that side. I think the plumbing should work out very well with minor adjustments for the sinks and shower head.

You might want to check the thread I started on the cafe doors. I am getting some good input. http://www.houzz.com/discussions/585853#1302581
July 30, 2013 at 1:36PM   
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cluedin
If you block off the door from the bath to the walkin closet, you can put a huge shower there the full width of the bath. Then create a new door to the closet direct from the master bedroom.

Leave everything else where it is. Spend the money you save (from not having to move all the plumbing) on outfitting your walkin closet, and/or a nice tub. The tub will help with resale value if nothing else ( i wouldnt buy a house without a bathtub in the master, and im not the only one).
July 30, 2013 at 1:39PM   
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Fred S
Thanks for the link. I haven't got that far yet. Suzanne's first post from 4 hours ago says 2'-6"?
July 30, 2013 at 1:40PM   
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kroze
I don't think you have read through this thread cluedin. I appreciate your opinions but I don't want another door into my bedroom...... already have plenty. And I do not want a tub. I realize that there are people such as yourself that love tubs, but frankly the trend seems to be jettisoning the jacuzzi. We have two other tubs in the house if I want to use one. My husband and I would prefer a large walk in shower. The current jumbo sized tub is a real space hog!
July 30, 2013 at 1:44PM   
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kroze
Yes Fred, she originally increased the size of that door, but said it didn't need to be that big. Keeping the current door saves money building a new door frame and buying another door. If no other door in the house is wheel chair accessible, it doesn't really matter how big this door is.
July 30, 2013 at 1:46PM   
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Fred S
I would have suspected that all the main doors and bedroom doors are at least 2'-6". Usually, only bathroom doors are 2'-4" and toilets rarely smaller, but sometimes 2'-0".
July 30, 2013 at 1:52PM   
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kroze
Yes, it is a mere 2 feet. Small, but works okay for us. When you have tiny rooms, tiny doors work okay! : )
July 30, 2013 at 1:55PM   
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cluedin
If you had a small master bathroom, and decided to have just a shower, i would say go for it - good use of space. But to take a bath with plenty of room for both and remove the tub? Not so great.
July 30, 2013 at 3:35PM   
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kroze
I respect your opinion cluedin.
July 30, 2013 at 3:39PM   
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cluedin
Sorry - i didnt read your comment. The good thing about renovating is you get to have exactly what you want. Good luck.
July 30, 2013 at 4:20PM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, I read the comments about the barn doors on your other threads. I find it a bit confusing. I am not sure exactly what is the problem on those doors. It seems that it is because they are small. Do you have stores in TX that you could come in and check them out on site?

I was wondering about the cafe doors and maybe Fred S can educate us on this: When you have 2 cafe doors, does the thickness of the doors play a role when they swing? It seems to me that the edges of a cafe door have to be rounded so the edges roll when the doors swing otherwise you would need to leave a gap between the doors when you install them. Does a cafe door work better if you have only one?

Also, I meant to tell you that depending on where exactly your toilet door is, you may be able to have a 3'-8" wide shower instead of 3'-6". If you can, you would need to make the built-in smaller by 2 inches though. What is the measurement from the back wall of the tub to the frame of the toilet door (frame included)?
July 30, 2013 at 8:05PM   
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Fred S
There is a gap slightly larger than the reveal on a standard door. You can round the edges a bit. The doors for a closet are normally only 1" thick like the louvered bifold doors. You can't see through the crack unless you are standing directly square with it. Since it is a closet, it will be pitch black in there unless the door is open, or someone forgets to turn the light off. There will also be a gap between the two barn style doors in the middle. It is hard to get that gap even from top to bottom on such a skinny door that is hung from the short top side.
July 30, 2013 at 8:27PM   
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Fred S
Barn doors are at least easier than a double pocket door to adjust, because you don't have to worry about such a flush look when they are open as well as closed. It is just the closed look that is important.
July 30, 2013 at 8:35PM   
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suzanne_m
Thank you Fred. The more I think about it the more I would go for one single cafe door. I think it is better to keep it simple ... only one door to maneuver that closes by itself. I think having two doors that don't close by themselves is the least desirable solution for Kroze's husband.
July 30, 2013 at 8:38PM   
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Fred S
If you go with a single door, it may as well be a regular door that swings out with self closing hinges. The hinges look like normal hinges with a slightly larger barrel.
July 30, 2013 at 8:47PM   
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suzanne_m
Actually Fred, I looked again at Kroze's closet and one single door does not work that great since her husband would need to move out of the way when he is inside the closet so the door can close for him to be able to reach the clothes that are behind the door. Did you mention earlier that Kroze could have a door that swing in only one direction, for example outward, then with just a little push it can close by itself?
July 30, 2013 at 8:48PM   
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suzanne_m
Wow Fred! You just read my mind :)
July 30, 2013 at 8:49PM   
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Fred S
Those are the ones that will not stay open, unfortunately, but that is why I recommend a motion sensor on the light. So it doesn't close behind him and leave him in the dark ;)
July 30, 2013 at 8:55PM   
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suzanne_m
Then I guess Kroze could have a door with a knob without a lock on it and have these hinges. I guess that would be the perfect solution, right?
July 30, 2013 at 8:57PM   
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suzanne_m
Fred, what about the gravity hinges you talked about earlier where you said that the door stay opened until you give it a little push? Could Kroze have those hinges on her door and have that wood lath around the inside frame of a door that we see on all regular frame's door?
July 30, 2013 at 9:06PM   
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suzanne_m
Just to complete my idea: that wood lath would prevent to swing the door inward. The door would only go outward or close.
July 30, 2013 at 9:08PM   
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Fred S
They do make a commercial grade that I would need more experience with to know for sure. The problem becomes one of leverage like the binding of the tall skinny barn style, only in a different direction. The top and bottom of the door would have to be steel to keep it from ripping off the pivot when it hits the full open position if a person swung or pushed it hard on the outer edge of the door. Same as the barn style, it can be done, but don't buy the standard stuff that is stocked at the big box store.
July 30, 2013 at 9:20PM   
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suzanne_m
It looks to me that the easiest and cheapest solution would be to have a normal door that swings outward and the one where Kroze's husband will need to learn to close by himself :)

Personally, I would not like it if the door of the closet cannot stay opened while I am inside of the closet.
July 30, 2013 at 9:29PM     
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Fred S
I try to stay on the fence as far as preferences. Just try to give people enough information to make a good decision for them. I have seen cheap hardware last forever with careful people and break in a week with others. These are just judgement calls based on a lot of experience.
July 30, 2013 at 9:37PM     
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cathieg
I'm glad you like the closet ideas I suggested. I have attached photos of my pull out hampers that are on rails. Essentially, they are heavy duty canvas bags that lift out to be carried to the laundry room. They work very well and are a good quality product. The name of the manufacturer escapes me, but I'm sure you should be able to source something like it locally.
July 31, 2013 at 12:48AM     
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suzanne_m
This is very nice cathieg. Kroze told me that she is fine with one hamper in the bathroom as she does laundry often. However, I need to re-organize my hampers at home and I will certainly consider doing something like that. Thank you for sharing.
July 31, 2013 at 12:52AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, this is one of many ways you can arrange your built-in. Let me know what you think then we can go from there.
Picture 1 shows that the single rod for long garments is at the back and the double rods is on the left wall.
Picture 2 shows how I arrange the built-in: Many cubicles and drawers with a mirror door on the center. Behind that door, you could have 12 shelves spaced at 6 in. high to store shoes.
Picture 3 shows how I reserved a place for boots on the floor along the back wall. You can have a shelf separating long garments from boot at 1'-6" from the floor.
July 31, 2013 at 1:33AM   
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kroze
I am so blessed by you Suzanne. You have done a phenomenal job of solving all my problems. I'm not sure how you do it, but you are gifted.

The built-ins are GREAT ! And I love the idea of having my shoes behind a closed door. I would never have thought of that...

Please email me those drawings.

You asked for a measurement last night. The distance from the wall behind the tub to the toilet room door is 42 1/2 inches, and 45 1/2 inches when you include the door frame.

Each day I get more excited about this project. It doesn't seem nearly as daunting as when I began this thread.

The angle closet doors continue to perplex. I have searched for places in the Dallas metroplex that I could go in and discuss this dilemma. I find no physical locations but I have phone numbers I can call and will do so today. I have not had a response from the barn door website I contacted.

I am not ready to totally nix the barn doors yet. A single door now sounds so boring. I am excited about getting an "interesting" door. I'll keep investigating. If anyone on this thread knows additional information, please share it with us.
July 31, 2013 at 5:51AM   
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suzanne_m
Kroze, it touches my heart to see how you appreciate my help. It is very gratifying to do this for you and I am very glad if my help gets you excited about this project. I am too!

I will send the plan for the master closet but I brought a small change to the top shelf of the built-in. I put 3 cubicles instead of 5 to break the monotony a bit.

As for the shoes behind the mirror door, it is cathieg's idea. I thought it was very clever to hide them behind a so needed full length mirror. In an ideal world, all our shoes are pieces of art and worth showing them but it is not always the situation with some of shoes we love for their comfort :)

Concerning the rod for long garment, I did not dare to go in my bedroom at 2:00 am, turn on the light and take some measurements while my husband was sleeping :). So today I went to measure. I am not sure how tall you are and how high are your boots but I realized that it is not realistic to reserve a height 1'-6' for the boots under the long garments, the rod for long garments would be place to high for a standard person. You will need to determine the position of the rod and bottom shelf depending on your height. If you cannot come up with a good height space for the boots while having a good position for the rod, you can play a bit by keeping your boots behind the mirror doors and display your nicest shoes on the bottom of your long garments. Just Make sure when you have your built-in done that you have holes spaces at every inch and a half so you can adjust the shelves where ever it is functional for you.

As for the barn doors, it is good that you continue that discussion and continue the shopping but I must say I am quite lost on that so I will let others help you on that subject. If you can't find a set of two that work there, you could install them on each side of the master bathroom entrance. It should not be a problem since the doors would be bigger and they would stay opened all the times.

Last, I am happy that I could help you starting this project but unfortunately I won't be able to contribute as much for the decoration ans selecting materials. I don't feel comfortable in that area. Sometimes it is clear to me what works and what does not but I, myself, need help from experts when it comes to that area. Don't worry, I will keep following you though :)
July 31, 2013 at 9:37AM   
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kroze
Thank you again Suzanne. If you would, please email mail me all of the closet designs for both closets. That will help me explain things to my Contractor.

BTW, I don't have any boots. : )

But I like the idea of having a built up floor below the hanging garment areas. I might even put a row of drawers down there. If I get boots I can lay them down in the drawers!
July 31, 2013 at 9:46AM   
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suzanne_m
Drawers below the long garments is a great idea. Maybe the row right above the full length mirror could be 9 inches high instead of 12 ... again to make it a bit more interesting. As long as you have many holes in the cubicles, you can play with the functionality and the look as much as you want.
July 31, 2013 at 10:04AM   
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suzanne_m
Oops, I meant to tell you also, that if you keep the toilet door where it currently is then keep the width of the shower 42 in. I thought that the wall from the back to the toilet's door was longer because the shower can be as wide as the length of that wall.
July 31, 2013 at 10:13AM   
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kroze
I forgot to mention how much I liked the fact that you moved the bathroom door two feet from the corner. That will make a huge difference in furniture arrangement options. Currently nothing can be on that wall because it would block the doorway. I love that new feature you gave us!
July 31, 2013 at 10:17AM   
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kroze
Oh yes, and husband had already suggested that we put the barn door on the bathroom door instead of the closet. I can revert to a cafe door on the closet now.
July 31, 2013 at 10:18AM   
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suzanne_m
One thing I meant to mention about the frame's door size is my software allocates 2 inches. Please, ignore that. However, like in my drawing the green colored wall that says 2'-0" long is in reality 2'-2" long from the corner to the opening of the door. Just pay attention to those 2 inches width frames when talking to your contractor. It would be more clear if you tell your contractor where you want to have the opening for the door instead of telling him where to put the frame of the door.
July 31, 2013 at 10:36AM   
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kroze
Okay, will do. Thanks
July 31, 2013 at 10:39AM   
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suzanne_m
Cathieg, how high is the shelf that runs across your entire closet?

This idea of a continuous shelf all across the closet would help to unify the space between the built-in and the hanging space. Knowing what height cathieg's did it in her closet will help you decide how tall you want your built-in.

Also, you are far ready from those little details but I will mention them as they come to me so I won't forget: One is I would suggest that since you don't have a bench in your closet or a bed close by, you might want to keep an empty cubicle handy for gathering your today's clothes and have a hook somewhere close by to hang the clothes you just chose to wear.
July 31, 2013 at 12:36PM   
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kroze
Good points Suzanne. I definitely want the appearance of congruence throughout.
July 31, 2013 at 12:41PM   
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kroze
I have another off the wall question. I am looking at tile and floor options for the bathroom. I want the faux wood ceramic floors but I am seeing a picture that has the faux wood continuing up on the walls and into the shower. What do you think? I never thought about that. Is it too much of the same thing or simple continuity?
July 31, 2013 at 4:47PM   
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Fred S
In that style tile, I think it would look very nice. I would not say the same for 6"x6" tiles with a lot of grout lines.
July 31, 2013 at 5:11PM   
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kroze
I wonder how they will handle water spots in the shower. I was wanting something that didn't have to be cleaned daily.

But I like the simplicity of the faux wood tiles.... not busy. The busyness will be in the granite counter tops.
Speaking of that, I have a lot of granite to use up from the kitchen and I was wondering if there was another use for it beyond counter tops? I already have put granite around the fireplace.... which looks nice.
July 31, 2013 at 5:32PM   
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Fred S
Those tiles are a fairly new thing, so I have not seen too much of them. I would imagine that some are better for showers than others. The subtle pattern should help hide water spots. Maybe a granite seat in the shower? Above the drawers in your built-in closet units, as an open space to temporarily set things could be handy? Window sill/stool?
July 31, 2013 at 5:54PM   
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kroze
Wow, good ideas Fred!
July 31, 2013 at 5:56PM   
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Fred S
Corner shelves in the shower for shampoo, etc.
July 31, 2013 at 5:59PM   
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kroze
ah, yes.... another good one! Thanks!
July 31, 2013 at 6:07PM   
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suzanne_m
Maybe a nice bench outside in your garden.
July 31, 2013 at 6:28PM   
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suzanne_m
I guess that would not work. I keep forgetting that your are in the sun all year long. It would not be a problem in Canada ;)
July 31, 2013 at 7:02PM   
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kroze
: )
July 31, 2013 at 7:05PM   
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kroze
I adore the sun! And I love living in Texas. I have a daughter living in Edinburg, Scotland where the sun seldom shines. I could not do that.
July 31, 2013 at 7:10PM   
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suzanne_m
I could not do that either. It seems very depressing.
July 31, 2013 at 7:13PM   
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kroze
And my son has been living in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil where the sun shines almost constantly!
July 31, 2013 at 7:14PM   
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suzanne_m
Two very much different places to visit. How diverting!
July 31, 2013 at 7:19PM   
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kroze
We raised them in Indonesia, so they are very comfortable in an international setting.
July 31, 2013 at 7:26PM   
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suzanne_m
I love it !!!
July 31, 2013 at 7:29PM   
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kroze
I was thinking of building three cubicles stacked on the floor in the corner of the bathroom by the closet door. I would make it about counter height and put granite on top...... leaving a spot for an art object.
???
August 1, 2013 at 2:55PM   
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suzanne_m
That will be nice. You have the space. I would do it only 1 ft deep to give of room to move in front of the sink. If you want it deeper, it is ok because you can move around with 36 in. space in front of the sink but I think the more space you have the better.
August 1, 2013 at 3:06PM   
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kroze
That would be fine. I would put the towels in from the side. Thanks Suzanne.
August 1, 2013 at 3:11PM   
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suzanne_m
I would have it done with the same looking as your vanity.
August 1, 2013 at 3:36PM   
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kroze
Of course..
August 1, 2013 at 4:05PM   
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kroze
I tried to start a thread on shower tiles. I asked what tiles were best to camouflage water spots so I don't have to clean daily. Not getting much response on it at all. I guess that is too boring for most posters. : )
August 1, 2013 at 5:48PM   
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Fred S
Bummer :)
I think some of those wood look tiles are too new to get much feedback. All I can say is minimal grout lines and not too dark or too light. Or too shiny? :)
August 1, 2013 at 5:54PM   
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Fred S
And I only use liquid soap anymore becaus the hard stuff in the bar soap is harder to clean than the water.
August 1, 2013 at 5:57PM   
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kroze
That is a good point Fred. Would a matte finish with a textured grain be best? I'm not sure if the faux wood tiles have a texture when you rub your hand over them.
August 1, 2013 at 5:57PM   
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kroze
Yes, I had a very difficult time weaning my hubby off bar soap. He really, really likes it. But, our RV plumbing and tanks build up a scum with the bar stuff. So, I finally got him to buy into soft soap..... didn't want to muck up his motorhome!
August 1, 2013 at 6:01PM   
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Fred S
I'm thinking textured look but smooth finish (maybe rippled but not rough) for cleaning. I haven't gone up to touch any of them yet either.
August 1, 2013 at 6:11PM   
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kroze
Oh my! My husband just came up with a great idea!!!

Instead of having the three cubicles stacked in the corner, make it a bench to sit on!
I am startled by his brilliance on this one! He is beginning to take more interest in the design faze. That is GOOD! : )
August 2, 2013 at 6:50AM   
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kroze
My tile selection thread has become very interesting... if anyone is interested.
http://www.houzz.com/discussions/588124#1314008
August 2, 2013 at 8:44AM   
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suzanne_m
The bench is a very clever idea!!
August 2, 2013 at 9:25AM   
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suzanne_m
Floor plan updated with 2'1/8" at the entrance + bench in bathroom:
August 2, 2013 at 11:48AM   
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suzanne_m
Ok. Just like mentioned in youroither thread, I am posting the latest drawing of the master ensuite and discuss about that extended mirror problem.

The extended mirror is a little essential detail in a bathroom but yet it causes a problem in this layout. The problem is if you want to be able to see the back of your head while standing in front of the vanity, the mirror has to be installed about 12 in. in front of the vanity side wall. The longest wall you have beside the vanity is the one connecting to the master closet and it is only 3 in. longer than the vanity.

So like, I suggested in the other hthread you could maybe install that mirror: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/4061842/360-degree-mirror-every-womans-dream.html
on 4 in. thick wall 15.

Another option would be that at one time you suggested to have a set of cubicles stack in the corner. Maybe you can have those no more than 9 in. deep and the high of your vanity. You could installed the mirror just on the edge of wall 14. The cubicles could serve you as a vanity while you quickly fix your hair.

It is not the ideal, I know. If I think of something else, I will let you know. Maybe houzzers have other ideas :)
August 4, 2013 at 7:56PM   
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kroze
Thanks Suzanne. Great drawing and a good idea about the mirror. I will do some research on that and see what I can find also.
August 4, 2013 at 8:09PM   
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kroze
It looks like that 360 degree mirror is on a pedestal stand. Getting it at the right height would be a challenge. My current mirror is mounted on the wall at shoulder height.
August 4, 2013 at 8:22PM   
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suzanne_m
Where is your current mirror mounted? Is it on a side wall in front of the vanity?
August 4, 2013 at 8:27PM   
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suzanne_m
On the link I gave you it says: The 360 Mirror lights up and can be screwed to the wall or stuck on bathroom tiles with suction pads.
August 4, 2013 at 8:28PM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, there is another option that I don't know if you are ok to consider but I thought it does not hurt to draw it. and show it to you. In the plan below, I replaced the built-in beside the shower for a drop-down counter where you could put you mirror. The cost to that is you need to move the toilet and you loose your large closet.

It does not sound reasonable to design a bathroom around a $30 mirror unless you are very excited about the drop-down counter.
August 4, 2013 at 10:49PM   
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kroze
Thank you for all your time spent on this Suzanne. No, I would not design a bathroom around a mirror.

You asked about my current mirror set up. That is a funny story! When we moved into the house about a year ago, there was no logical place to mount my necessary mirror. So, my husband said, "No problem, I'll drill a hole in the shower glass and mount it there. Normally, glass can be drilled without breaking. However, the tempered glass of the shower shattered. : /

So, we removed the shattered glass and my husband wanted to call a glass man to replace it but I didn't want to. I didn't want to spend money putting in new glass when I knew we would be tearing everything out soon! So, I folded an old shower curtain and draped it over that end of the shower. That section is not large because of the vanity. Then my husband took his carpentry clamps and clamped the mirror to the frame of the shower.

It is an unsightly contraption at this point. But this just points out how important this pesky little mirror is!
So, if the 360 degree mirror can be mounted on the wall, fabulous! Now, where? : [
August 5, 2013 at 5:25AM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, I have to leave for the day but I have few options. I will talk to you later.
August 5, 2013 at 7:17AM   
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kroze
Suzanne, I am returning to my Dad's tomorrow for an indefinite period of time. However, this time I hope to be able to have some computer time while he sleeps. Hospice has his case now.

This remodel has been a very therapeutic outlet for me during this time. You all are my temporary escape from pending stress. Consider yourselves to be therapists.... : ) Thanks!
August 5, 2013 at 7:31AM   
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suzanne_m
I am so sorry to hear that your dad is not doing well and you have to go through that sad and stressing time. If we can help you take your mind of things from time to time then I guess it is a good thing.

Let us know, how your dad is doing.
August 5, 2013 at 8:12PM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, I feel like your best bet concerning your mirror is probably to have those stack cubicles you mentioned earlier. It could look like a small vanity: 1'-0" deep x 2'-0". You would need a mirror on wall 17 just in front of that storage and install your extendable mirror at 3 in. from the edge of wall 14. See the red x on the drawing. If you like, you have room to put the bench on the right side of the bathroom door.

I will try to find again the video of the 360 degrees mirror I found earlier. I like very much that there is a light and a magnifying mirror but I am a bit concerned that the mirrors are too small. When I looked at it, it seems that the person could only see a part of the back of her head. I would have preferred to see the whole head.
August 5, 2013 at 10:45PM   
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suzanne_m
Here is the video I watched yesterday:


Also, if you put mirror on the door panels of the storage on your vanity and you install your extendable mirror where the red X is on the plan above, I think you would be able to see the back of your head. You could have your bench instead of the stack of cubicles if you wish.
August 5, 2013 at 10:54PM   
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kroze
The secret to seeing a larger area with this type of mirror is to mount it out in front of a wall mirror. You then stand between the two mirrors and get a full view.

If I mount an extendable mirror on that wall by the closet door, I would need to mount a corresponding mirror on the wall above the bench. Does that make sense?

I think that is definitely a possibility, but a large number of mirrors in the bathroom. Also, I use the magnifying part of the mirror for cosmetics which I apply in front of my sink.

The idea of putting mirrored door panels on the linen closet next to the shower may also be a good option. I could swing the door around and use it to see the back of my head. However, that solution does not give me a magnifying mirror. I have gotten very use to having that magnifier! :)

If we went back to the shallow above vanity cabinets turned at a 90% angle to the wall, I might be able to mount something on the wall next to the vanity or on the end of that shallow cabinet. ??
August 6, 2013 at 5:26AM   
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Fred S
How big is this magnifying mirror when not extended?
August 6, 2013 at 5:45AM   
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kroze
It is the flip side of the regular mirror. They both extend on an accordian style rod.
August 6, 2013 at 6:16AM   
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Fred S
Yes, I figured that. I would like to know how compact it gets when it is not extended. Or are you already out of town?
August 6, 2013 at 6:22AM   
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suzanne_m
I have to leave now and for all day again today. But very quickly, Kaye, what I mean is if you have mirror door on the 0'-8" x 1'-0" storage on top your vanity, you could stand between the mirror that is on wall 14 and the vanity. You could see the back of your head through the mirror on the storage that is on top of your vanity.

I have to leave now but I will come back later probably in 11 hours or so.
August 6, 2013 at 8:38AM   
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suzanne_m
A slight variation of the plan above:

You could put the extended mirror on the edge of wall 13. See the X on the plan below. You could have the stack of cubicles on wall 17 with a mirror above it 2'-0" W x 1'-0" D x around 2'-6" H (same height as what your vanity will be). If you want to use the magnifying mirror, you can stand in front of the sink and do your make-up there. If you want to see the back of your hair, you can use your extended mirror and stand in front the the stack of cubicles and look at the back of your head through the mirror that is on wall 17.
August 6, 2013 at 2:23PM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, just a little though: maybe you could hide a folded stool in the corner at the left of the built-in in your master ensuite. Corners in closet are not very functional space so maybe using it to slide a folded stool might be a good use of that corner.
August 6, 2013 at 2:32PM   
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kroze
Yes, I think from this list of options I will be able to find a workable arrangement on the mirror. I really appreciate your time on this and I am going to buy one of those fabulous mirrors you found. They aren't that expensive. Good investment!

That is a good idea about putting a small folding stool or step ladder in the corner of the closet. It will definitely have shelves out of my reach.

Fred my current mirror is about 8" in diameter and it sticks out about an inch and a half from the wall when collapsed. Does that help?
August 6, 2013 at 6:42PM   
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kroze
Can't wait to be able to prowl around the area architectural reclamation centers and look for special things to make this remodel unique.

There was a new article posted on Houzz This Week about "Six Lesson in Scale from Well Designed Bathrooms." They were showing different types of designs. I posted on it about my plan to use faux wood tiles for the bathroom floor in my remodel and possibly taking it up the walls and into the shower. I thought the response was interesting considering the gist of the article..... check it out. I cannot link it here because it came through my email.
August 7, 2013 at 9:15AM   
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suzanne_m
Thank you Kroze for the article. This is the link, if houzzers are interested to read:



If you have the chance, can you post the faux wood tiles you have in mind? I tend to agree with Sarah on the thread above about not looking as organic as we think it would.

How is your dad?
August 7, 2013 at 10:13AM   
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Fred S
I think it will look just fine. I don't think Sarah has seen the bathroom design she is trying to comment on. If it was a full glass shower focal point, then I might tend to agree with her. Most of this shower is hidden and putting a small patch of a different color or texture in the area it will be seen will just make it look busy in this case.
August 7, 2013 at 2:21PM   
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kroze
Dad had another stroke today....... six in the past seven days. They are mini strokes but getting worse by the day. He is beginning to have communication problems. Thank you for asking.

I appreciate the fact that you and Fred both checked the article. I do not have specific tiles picked out yet. I had mentioned to you both earlier that I was thinking of taking them on up the wall. After reading the article and looking at the pics, I wondered if I should change directions in the shower. As you saw, they all seemed to think that would be too busy. Tiles are all the same texture and wood is different. I'm not sure what difference that makes but they seemed to think so.

It is weird. They show examples to follow, then discourage you from doing it....! ; )
August 7, 2013 at 5:29PM   
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suzanne_m
I am sorry about your dad. A mini stroke is hard on anyone. It must be so much harder when they repeat so frequently and at the age your dad is. I am saying a prayer for you and your dad.
August 7, 2013 at 8:54PM   
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kroze
Thank you Suzanne. All prayers are appreciated.
August 8, 2013 at 4:20AM   
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PRO
Rustica Hardware
If your still interested in barn doors for your opening we will be happy to help you. There are many options to choose from to fit the style of your home. Take a look at our site there is much to see and its really easy to navigate also don't forget to look in our gallery. See: http://rusticahardware.com/barn-door-hardware/
August 8, 2013 at 11:31AM   
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kroze
Thank you Rustica Hardware. Yes, I have already spent much time on your website. You do indeed have lovely doors but probably not in my price range. I am looking at maybe finding something special at a salvage business in my city. If that doesn't work, I may return to your website.
Thanks for your interest.
August 8, 2013 at 12:25PM     
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suzanne_m
Kaye, how is you dad? How are you?
August 12, 2013 at 12:38PM   
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kroze
Dad has not had another mini stroke in several days now. I may be going home in a day or two. Thank you for asking.
He keeps kicking above all odds!! However, his physical and mental condition is failing. Sleeps most of the time.
August 12, 2013 at 5:17PM   
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suzanne_m
It is sad seeing our loves ones loosing their quality of life. In this phase of life, sleeping is probably what is best for them. At least when they are asleep, they are not in pain physically and are not conscious of their reduced capacities. My mother-in-law died few months ago of advanced dementia. I found it hard to see her quality of life so diminished but I found it harder to see how sad she was when she was conscious enough to realize her own reduced condition.
August 12, 2013 at 6:50PM   
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kroze
That is very sad, Suzanne. Sorry to hear about your mother in law. Yes, it is extremely difficult to watch them decline. My Dad is blind but extremely fastidious about his grooming, even at 91. Amazing!

Believe it or not, he is slightly improved and I drove home today. I never know from day to day when I will need to return to Dad's side.

I am very anxious to dive back into the remodeling research. Thank you to everyone still hanging int there with me!
August 14, 2013 at 12:24PM   
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kroze
Suzanne, last summer I remodeled my kitchen (before moving into the house). Here are some before and after pics.
August 14, 2013 at 4:21PM   
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suzanne_m
Wow! You did an amazing job Kaye! I love your floor. Can't wait to see the master ensuite finished!
August 14, 2013 at 6:03PM   
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kroze
I'm thinking about putting that floor in the master bedroom also. Haven't yet decided. My hubby likes that soft fuzzy stuff under his feet. : )
August 14, 2013 at 6:11PM   
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suzanne_m
I strongly encourage you to put that floor in your master bedroom. It is so beautiful. Gene is just like my husband, he wants carpet under his feet when he wakes up. You can have a hardwood floor in your master bedroom and have an area rug under your bed and large enough so Gene can have put his feet on it when he wakes up :) so everyone will get what they want :)
August 14, 2013 at 7:13PM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, I forgot to mention that I discovered lately that walls are 4 1/2" thick and the software I am using draws walls 4" thick. It does not change much your floor plan because you keep many existent walls. In the floor pan below, I wrote in red the measurements that are affected by that 1/2" extra thickness.

Your built-in beside the shower will be one inch narrower and your closet will be 1/2 shorter.

The built-in in the closet can stay that size since I already had 1" spare space between the built-in and the rod at the back.

As for the diagonal closet, I think you are still ok to use 30 " wide cafe door.
August 14, 2013 at 10:38PM   
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suzanne_m
Oops, your bedroom dimensions stay at 14'-8" x 14'-10". Those are measurements that you gave me with the current walls that are not going to be moved.
August 14, 2013 at 10:46PM   
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kroze
Thank you Suzanne. I appreciate your conscientiousness and attention to detail. I will keep those things in mind.

Still planning to go rummaging today at salvages places. Hope it will be fun!
August 15, 2013 at 5:13AM   
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suzanne_m
Good luck with your shopping. I hope you find nice doors.
August 15, 2013 at 7:25AM   
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kroze
Well, I had a full day of exploring. Ended up going to several different places. Some were pretty good and I enjoyed the browse, but didn't find anything I couldn't live without.

I found a couple of cafe doors, but they didn't excite me. There were a few things I could have used for the barn door, but they too weren't anything special. I think you have to frequent these places to get the good stuff.

I'm not sure where to turn to next. I suppose I should continue to look for materials...... tiles, fixtures, etc. Which reminds me, I never received the samples of the tiles which were self cleaning. I'll have to call them again.

Maybe I should start going to tile places here and look for the faux wood for the floor.......

After that, I may be ready to start calling in the Contractors. Have I forgotten anything?
August 15, 2013 at 5:27PM   
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suzanne_m
I guess, you still have the option to have your cabinet maker build your barn doors and maybe your cafe doors,
August 15, 2013 at 10:04PM   
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kroze
I can buy new cafe doors with no problem. They are about the same price as the used ones.. However, I did find one set of cafe doors for $65. which is very reasonable. But they weren't anything special. But I didn't find any full length cafe doors anywhere. And I can't find them online. I'll keep looking.

It is raining today. But I still might go in search of new materials.
August 16, 2013 at 4:55AM   
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August 16, 2013 at 8:42AM   
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kroze
Thanks Fred. You are a dear !! I think you have solved my door problem! : )
August 16, 2013 at 10:39AM   
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kroze
Today I visited both Lowe's and Home Depot. I looked at all kinds of materials to get a base line.
Home Depot gave me a couple of booklets from different door suppliers they use. One of them might have a good deal. They are less expensive than the doors in Austin, but probably not as high quality. It is difficult to tell from pics!
August 16, 2013 at 6:38PM   
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suzanne_m
Kaye, if you want to cut down on cost, this is a slightly modified version. I removed the wall 18, so there is no need to build one except you would need to enlarge the door on the left side. I put a 42 in. wide door and centered the vanity more or less 1 or 2 in. By doing this and keeping the symmetry, you would have 2 built-in 18 in. wide which is a bit narrow but still manageable.

As mentioned in the other thread, with the current layout you have, you are kind of force to walk from the left side to enter the bathroom, that is why you feel that the view to the vanity feel more centered even if it is not centered. If you use a pocket door instead of a regular door in the layout below, you will walk more towards the center of the door and you view of the vanity will be centered.

I am going to post this comment on the other thread since you asked the question about keeping the door at the same location in that thread.
October 3, 2013 at 8:08AM   
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kroze
hmmm..... I think you may be onto something here Suzanne. I actually like that vanity layout better than the original. That might eliminated the need for the shallow cabinets by the sinks that have been giving us problems!

Those new cabinets you have created that are 18" wide could have electrical outlets in them to accommodate our small appliances! The upper shelves could still be used for linens. I like the symmetry of it.

The downside with keeping the bedroom/bathroom door in place is that I still can't place furniture on that toilet room wall without blocking the pathway through the bedroom. : (

There is no perfect plan. I'll discuss the practicalities of both options with my contractor.

Thank you so much for the new idea!
October 3, 2013 at 8:43AM   
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suzanne_m
This is the new layout with 2 x 24 in. towers recessed and a 6 ft vanity:
October 4, 2013 at 11:21AM      Thanked by kroze
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Madeline
I must read the entire thread; I know and I will. But I jumped to the end after viewing a few paper and pencil drawings, and when I saw this professional looking plan I had to take a look. First thing I noticed was that the water closet (toilet) has 2' doors. The scariest day of my life was the first time I had to get myself from my wheelchair into my toilet area following hip surgery. It was very nearly impossible, took a lot of maneuvering that almost did me in and I'm embarrassed to say I didn't sit down in time. Until I broke my hip I was a very fit 59-year-old who would have never foreseen this kind of problem (let alone breaking a hip!). My own master toilet is nicely angled for privacy but it does not have a door. I note that your plan has a door. I'm certain that door would make worse the transfer from wheel chair (or walker) to the toilet. I suggest you think hard about this before you approve a two foot entry. At least then you can say that you gave it due consideration and opted to take your chances. You will probably never be put in a situation such as mine. But you did say you wish to age in place and you probably won't want to make over your bathroom one more time. (Gee, I take that back; you might like the idea of that!) Good luck with your beautiful new bathroom and closet. I envy you!
October 8, 2013 at 1:22PM   
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kroze
Thank you Madeline. The two foot toilet room door already exists. I am not creating it that way..... I would not do that! I am not changing it during this remodel. However, if I do break a hip or have a need for a bigger door, I will modify it at that time. Thanks for your concern.
October 8, 2013 at 2:18PM   
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