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| Wait for sunset, and put your fixtures to good use. That view is stunning, but my eye is drawn to the lovely faucets and sink first because they have turned the faucets on for the shot. |
I've always thought this post about styling/photographing interiors was helpful, too:
http://habituallychic.blogspot.com/2009/04/bachelor-pad-photo-shoot-story.html
Kit, I just checked out that post and it was really helpful. I tend to follow the work of a lot of stylists and photographers through sites like decor8 and desire to inspire, but I hadn't ever read about what goes into a shoot in that way before. We do have such luxury in checking compositions with digital technology. Whenever I grab a 35 mm camera these days, I tend to use up a roll of film in about a minute. It's like the digital has spoiled me and given me total photography A.D.D.!
Here's a few of my not too bad ones!
http://decorno.blogspot.com/2008/03/paul-costello-wants-you-to-take-better.html
"If the room and the styling are ugly, it's likely your pictures will be ugly too."
Too funny!
http://beneathmyheart.blogspot.com/2010/01/easy-coffee-table-re-do.html
Thanks!
Traci
Decide if you're creating art or documenting how the room is arranged and furnished.
This idea book is very helpful with great tips and examples. I usually do lots of shots with different exposures because I'm not always sure when I take the picture how I want it emphasized in terms of shadows and highlights. With cameras that don't have controls, you can just move the camera just a little bit one way or the other and watch for the exposure to be different, so multiple images can easily be taken.
The software I use is acdsee pro 3, photoshop, and I'm wild about this plugin for noise called Noiseware, which I think is a miracle worker.
I usually take around twenty pics of something that I plan to blog about, playing with the settings on my camera. Eventually, I will get it right!
Some of the keys I was told was with the flash inside needs to be a higher end one that points to the ceiling. Many design shots if you look close will show shadows under chairs or fixtures revealing the flash or light positions.
Lots of great info in these pages and many great pictures - I look forward to spending hours here in the coming months.
Right now I should be planning my next two bathroom renovations.
By for now.
John Whipple
North vancouver
www.byanydesign.com
As an Interior Designer you work to perfect your trade so that your clients use your expertise again and again. I do the same as a photographer. Build money into your special projects to hire a professional photographer. In the long run you will see a return on your investment when clients choose you over another designer because of the images in your advertising or on your web sites.
1. Most interiors are shot pretty low to the ground (i.e., lower than at your own eye-level). A good rule of thumb is to shoot about 36-48" off the floor, which is enough to let you see the top of a dining table or desk. Just look at any shelter magazine to see what I'm talking about...your rooms will feel more intimate that way and have less of a skew to them.
2. If you have a laptop or ipad, download your first shot once you have the room arranged the way you *think* you like it. It never ceases to amaze me how many mistakes you can see on a large screen that simply aren't visible on a small camera screen: dust, furniture at an odd angle, a saggy sofa cushion, a window drape that's snagged on something, a vase that's blocking another accent behind it...you have a far better chance of correcting small details like this before you get home and kick yourself for not noticing them sooner!
3. If you have a manual (or semi-manual) 35 mm camera, start by shooting at an f-stop of f11. That tends to give you a pretty good depth of field for the entire room so that items in the foreground and background are in focus and not blurry. (Caveat: sometimes you want to create a blurry foreground or background to accentuate an item, so this advice is mainly helpful when you're shooting a large space and want everything in focus.)
4. Once you've set your f-stop, you can find the right exposure. It's always good to shoot a few exposures over and under what you think is correct in case you need to tweak things later on in Photoshop. And remember: underexposed (darker) images tend to have more "data" in them than overexposed images. So if you plan to tweak things in Photoshop later, you'll be able to get more detail from an underexposed shot.
5. A wide angle lens is invaluable, such as a 14 mm or 17mm. But you can certainly shoot rooms without one...it just makes it easier to capture everything. However, wide angle lenses tend to make things look a little fish-eyed, so try to zoom out only as much as you need to avoid unnecessary distortion.
I hope these ideas help...I'll add more if I think of any. Examples of my photos are on my Houzz profile: http://www.houzz.com/pro/susancorry Good luck!
Jeanne
http://www.cozystylishchic.com