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Showers
Top Ideabooks
- Steam Showers Bring a Beloved Spa Feature Home
- Polish Your Bathroom's Look With Wrapped Tile
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — Choosing Accessories
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — Waterproofing and Drainage
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — the Tiling and Grouting Phase
- Convert Your Tub Space to a Shower — the Fixtures-Shopping Phase
Top 10 Tips for Choosing Shower Tile
Slip resistance, curves and even the mineral content of your water all affect which tile is best for your shower
I'm a bathroom builder, a Houzz Contributor, a blogger (http://www.no-curb.com), a linear drain salesman and "Coach" to about 24 North Shore Girls Soccer players.
A dream client for me is someone looking to build their dream bathroom - not someone looking for a cheap fix.
I live for snow days and love the work we do. My newest love is LED lighting and we are pushing the boundaries of what's possible in a high end shower!
If you are looking for inspiration come check out my Ideabooks on Houzz. I have a ton of them - http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/users/johnfrwhipple
I'm a bathroom builder, a Houzz Contributor, a blogger (http://www.no-curb.com),... More »
Many factors come into play in choosing the perfect shower tile, and often the shower's design will dictate the type of tile that can or should be used.
For example, if you love a curved shower bench, you will need to use a smaller tile. That might seem like an easy task, but remember, you need a tile that is suitable for floor and wall use. This same tile also needs to be approved for a wet location. So when it's installed, 95 percent of the back side of the tile needs to be in contact with the thinset (tile concrete). Often, thinset is installed with a notched trowel, and not all tiles — such as many mosaic tiles — can reach 95 percent coverage.
Using a large-format tile is great for barrier-free design and aging in place. But is that tile safe? Smaller tiles offer more grout lines and slip resistance, so if you're searching for a large tile, look for one with a good slip-resistance rating. A tile with an A or B rating is far safer than a tile with a C slip-resistance rating.
A little-known fact is that if you're using glass tile or any sheet mosaic tile, it is up to the manufacturer or retailer to inform you if the tile is acceptable for submersion or pool use. Your shower floor should be built like it will be submerged. It is also the responsibility of the manufacturer of glass tile to specify the type of setting materials you need.
Keep reading for 10 more important things to keep in mind when choosing your shower tile.
For example, if you love a curved shower bench, you will need to use a smaller tile. That might seem like an easy task, but remember, you need a tile that is suitable for floor and wall use. This same tile also needs to be approved for a wet location. So when it's installed, 95 percent of the back side of the tile needs to be in contact with the thinset (tile concrete). Often, thinset is installed with a notched trowel, and not all tiles — such as many mosaic tiles — can reach 95 percent coverage.
Using a large-format tile is great for barrier-free design and aging in place. But is that tile safe? Smaller tiles offer more grout lines and slip resistance, so if you're searching for a large tile, look for one with a good slip-resistance rating. A tile with an A or B rating is far safer than a tile with a C slip-resistance rating.
A little-known fact is that if you're using glass tile or any sheet mosaic tile, it is up to the manufacturer or retailer to inform you if the tile is acceptable for submersion or pool use. Your shower floor should be built like it will be submerged. It is also the responsibility of the manufacturer of glass tile to specify the type of setting materials you need.
Keep reading for 10 more important things to keep in mind when choosing your shower tile.
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1. Use smaller tiles on curves. Depending on your shower bench design, you may need smaller tiles to handle the curves. Smaller tiles handle curves much better. By having the tile onsite before the shower's bench is designed, the angle of the curves and natural arcs can be worked out.
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2. Think about how it will feel. A slab feels nicer to sit on than smaller tile, and a curved edge will feel great on the back of the legs. Sitting on a shower bench with no eased edge can be hard on the backs of your legs. Plan to use a slab or a tile that offers up a bullnose or a radius edge for your shower bench.
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| 3. Be careful when selecting mosaic tile. Pick out a mosaic tile that offers at least 95 percent contact from the tile to the backer board. You need that contact from the wall to the tile! You don't want to trust the glue on a sheet of tile. Here is a wonderful example of mosaic tile installed by Carolina Gentry. I would bet that the tile is a paper- or film-faced mosaic, since the installation looks seamless. |
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4. Small colored glass is easier to work with than large clear glass. Glass is hard to work with. Some clear glass tiles can show moisture trapped behind them and make a great shower look awful after just a few uses. Picking smaller colored glass tile is better. Many glass tiles have directional arrows so they all can be installed with the same orientation.
5. Use a second tile choice to make a feature wall. Adding a second tile choice as a feature is a great look I see more and more these days.
Be careful about using small ledgestone tile, unless you know your water does not leave staining on your tile. Ledgestone achieves the stacked-rock look — like on this shower wall — with the rough face of the stone facing out. The rough surface means that it's slow to drain, and water with a heavy mineral content will build up quickly. Here in Vancouver, British Columbia, the mineral content in our water would stain the rough surface of ledgestone in a few months' time.
Be careful about using small ledgestone tile, unless you know your water does not leave staining on your tile. Ledgestone achieves the stacked-rock look — like on this shower wall — with the rough face of the stone facing out. The rough surface means that it's slow to drain, and water with a heavy mineral content will build up quickly. Here in Vancouver, British Columbia, the mineral content in our water would stain the rough surface of ledgestone in a few months' time.
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6. Pick a smaller tile for a sloped ceiling. Building a sloped ceiling is one of the many requirements of a commercial steam shower. Using smaller tiles makes for more graceful slopes.
This steamer by David Johnston Architects is one of my favorite examples of what's possible from a master tile setter.
This steamer by David Johnston Architects is one of my favorite examples of what's possible from a master tile setter.
7. Consider universal design. Pick a large-format tile and a one-way slope for easy access to the shower if you plan to age in your home. Using one tile throughout the installation can also make the room look much bigger.
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8. Keep cleaning in mind. If you hate cleaning your shower, use larger slabs or glass panels, since they making cleaning much easier than small mosaic-type tiles.
by ID by Gwen
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9. Use your main tile to frame a second tile. If your main tile of choice does not offer good slip resistance on your shower floor, you can frame a smaller tile with a larger tile.
Keep in mind that you will need to miter the corners so they can tip into the shower and you can achieve the pitch you need.
Keep in mind that you will need to miter the corners so they can tip into the shower and you can achieve the pitch you need.
by Helen scott
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10. Use smaller tiles for better traction. What a wonderful bathroom! Here, designer Helen Scott used the same smaller tile throughout the bathroom as accent tiles.
Notice how the shower hose and the shower bar are installed on the center of that one tile. I'm sure that was no accident.
More:
Top 10 Tips for Getting Bathroom Tile Right
Notice how the shower hose and the shower bar are installed on the center of that one tile. I'm sure that was no accident.
More:
Top 10 Tips for Getting Bathroom Tile Right
Ideabook updated on July 27, 2012.
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John Whipple
By Any Design Ltd.
http://www.no-curb.com
Just recently on a project on my own deck we discovered the adhesive on the tile mosaic was in fact a water born adhesive that broke down with water. That and the adhesive covered 80% or more of the back side - this stops the thin-set or tile concrete from making a strong bond.
A true tile pro can help you with tile selection and the best of the best are 5 Star NTCA (Nation Tile Contractors Association) Certified.
Look for a 5 Start Installer in your home town.
You can find one here;
http://www.tile-assn.com/Common/MemberLocator.aspx?mid=34
The NTCA also sells Specification Guidelines and this little gem of a resource can help your crew and design firm plan a proper tile assembly for any job site condition.
Order a copy of the NTCA Specification Guide Book here;
https://store.tile-assn.com/p-53-2012-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation.aspx
This TCNA (Tile Council of North America) guide book should be referenced in your tile specs and all correspondence with your builder. Add this to your scope of work and contracts.
"All work to conform to the current TCNA Specification Guidelines"
If your Canadian like me. Add this
"All work to conform to the latest TTMAC (Terrazzo, Tile and Marble Association of Canada ) Specification Guidelines.
Order the TTMAC Specification guidelines here;
http://www.ttmac.com/index.php?option=com_seminar&Itemid=5
You may not have a TTMAC or NTCA member in your town. This does not mean that the Specifications can not be followed.
In Vancouver these specifications are not required to meet building code requirements. The specifications I listed are better than code and ensure you or your client gets the best possible install.
JW
By Any Design Ltd.
http://www.no-curb.com
Thanks again John. Really nice article.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
Nice article. I have done quite a bit of ceramic work on my properties and enjoy it. However, I'm about to do a floor in my master shower, Concerned. It just seems like it will lead to problems (ie leaking). Currently reading article after article to get a full grasp on the situation. It just seems like the theory is to design something to leak to the right place, That just seems wrong. I love the looks of a ceramic shower floor however, You're article was well written.
I beg to differ about the large format tile for aging-in-place and accessible design, though. Even with a high coefficient of friction, or added coating, large format tile just doesn't always offer the necessary degree of slip-resistance when wet. From a safety point of view, although there are exceptions, it's actually generally a very bad choice for *anyone* in a bathroom, but especially the aging and infirm.
You need grout lines for traction, and the more of them there are underfoot, the safer the floor is. Four inches is really the largest tile that could really be considered safe on a bathroom floor, particularly in the shower, all else being equal.
Wendy Hoechstetter, EMT/Paramedic II (retired, disabled), CAPS (Certified Aging in Place Specialist)
You touched on a good subject "Leak to the right spot" this is how all showers need to be build. You can build your shower one of two ways.
The most traditional and most proven is a traditional shower with a clamping drain and waterproofing liner (rubber pvc, hot mop, cpe etc). This approach is also the one built wrong the most since many factors come into it working properly. Things like pre-slope, weep hole protection etc.
The newest approaches are topical waterproofing measures. Here you have sheet membranes and liquid membranes. Some working with their own drain and some working with any drain.
It will take weeks to explain the pros and cons of each but as a simple tip make sure these showers are built water tight.
Currently I'm in a huge debate with a fellow in Bridgton, Maine over this procedure and its local code requirement. After hours of research I have only found that the State of Maine like many follow the UPC (Universal Plumbing Code) and within that code book there is a reference to filling the shower and testing it for water tightness.
This is a flood test or leak test. Once you know that the shower is built to hold water the next test preformed is does it drain water. You simply pull the plug and ensure that all the water drains.
Once tiled the use of heavy ball bearings and marbles can enlighten you as to if the setting of tile was done properly. These marbles should all roll to the drain. If you have them hang up in the corners or mid span of the shower you can be sure you will have draining issues later when using it every day.
"All work to conform the the TTMAC or TCNA specification guidelines" such a simple line to add to your building specifications. Including this will require your bathroom crew to raise their game and deliver a better product.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. I'm hoping to submit this project for this years "Best Bathroom Remodel Of The Year" contest here.
I would not argue the fact that a 4"x4" or 2"x2" is safer and do agree that having more grout joints does make the floor safer but sometimes the look is not there. Also the extra grout joints make for extra cleaning.
I'm not sure how many showers you have tried with large format but every on of my builds I test the tile before installing it. You should get some traction under foot with soapy water on top. I recommend my clients test the new tile in the old shower before going forward. I can always cut them down if they are slippery but most clients continue shopping until they find that perfect large format tile with traction.
There out there. Keep looking.
JW
And yes, I agree, sometimes the look just isn't there otherwise - and sometimes trade offs need to be made.
BTW, it looks like you do beautiful work. I'm loving the detailing in your images, and some very clever ideas.
Could be that some wheels are created better than others and have always wanted to look into this more but never had the time.
A wise man told me once I need to spend a day in a wheelchair to truly grasp how hard it is to get around. This is on my short list to do.
Another incredible tip I learn at a Health Care Conference was that wearing safety glasses with a little petroleum jelly smeared over them is a good representation of the view of someone with vision impairment. Adding in tile borders and inlays can look like steps to someone with poor vision and cause a fall.
I should have included that in my top ten tips!
JW
Getting around on wheels - or one leg/crutches - can indeed be a real challenge. You'd be amazed at the kinds of obstacles that hop right out that you would never have noticed otherwise. Even just using a walker or cane highlights them quite a bit.
And when your balance is bad, or you are vision impaired, those add all kinds of other issues, even if both legs work fine. What's underfoot everywhere you go matters beyond belief, both in material and actually even color. Even the slightest unevenness magnifies.
If you've never had to deal with crutches (or only one leg), try tying one of your legs up behind you and then try to get around on crutches.
In addition to the Vaseline on glasses idea, try lining some goggles with black paper or cloth that fits snugly out of which you cut just a very tiny piece, so that your field of vision narrows to about the size of a dime. In these various conditions, try walking on various flooring surfaces, including different tile materials and sizes, both with shoes and barefoot. I'd be interested to know your impressions.
It is nice to have a bubble tub and to use it after a ruff day is very relaxing. However a "good" not just a good looking bubble tub will cost you a lot more than a soaker. Let me explain why.
When you have a bath, you are using for sure shampoo, soap and maybe also bath salts etc. Furthermore I guess you don't have a shower before you relax in your bubble tub. What I am trying to say is: The water in your bubble tub is not just plain water it is a mix of all these "ingredients" And the worst part in this mix is your "body grease" and hairs.
And here comes the nauseate part. During your "relaxing session" the "water-mix" including more or less air will be pumped through the bubble tub's pipe system. "Cheap-models" have just a pipe system which connects the jets and a pump. That's it! And sometimes this pipe system consists just flexible PVC hoses which are not smooth on the inside.
And now imagine what happens when you turn off the pump and drain your bubble tub. - Exactly, all the "grease-mix" including some hairs remains in the pipe system. Bacterias, Germs and other not so healthy things will grow until you have your next "bubble session" And as soon you turn on the pump it'll come out.
Therefore high-end bubble tubs are bigger because they need more space to accommodate the filter technic. Furthermore all pipes on this tubs are very smooth on the inside. They also include access panels for the filter system. Sometimes the filter system can be placed in another room. High-end bubble tubs are a bit comparable to a hot tubs.
So if you have the space and still decide to go with a bubble tub, look for the right one and also for a professional retailer which provides installing support. And keep in mind, a bubble tub is not just sokertub with jets.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
.
These pictures are showing just the outer part of the intake where the water will be sucked into the system. Inside the pipes you'll find the same scenario.
I'm currently installing a wonderful soaker tub with bubbles from MTI (http://mtibaths.com/) that has air bubbles, aromatheraphy, LED lighting and most importantly a cleaning port. This cleaning port sends a chemical wash right into the system and once the cleaning cycle is activated keeps the tub clean both inside and out.
If you install a jetted tub, bubble tub or hot tub you need to understand that a regular cleaning cycle will be need. This Tub from MTI Whirlpool Baths is the first I've seen with the cleaning port.
To further reduce the sound transfer from the pumps and qizmos we installed a sound proofing membrane under the tub - we used a product called Noble Seal SIS from Noble Company. Although not required in single family homes you may need this if you live in a multi family resisdence or high rise condo like the project I'm working on here in Vancouver.
I'll post a few action shots once we get this tub installed.
Good Luck.
John Whipple
By Any Design Ltd.
http://www.no-curb.com
Many more tile choices look horrible once cut.
Our last barrier free shower had a porcelain tile with a very thick glazing. We where able to rip the 12"x24" tile into 11 1/4" x 23 1/2" pieces to better fit the floor layout - we further cut an extra angle for pitching. With the thick glaze we then polished and created a new micro bevel. The cuts where very hard to tell from the factory but this work took my apprentence hours to preform.
Most natural stone is easily cut to size.
This work will involve a lot of extra work and I would suggest you have a good sample board made up before making final judgment.
Good Luck.
JW
"Are there any rules as to what can be cut and what can't be?" NO there are no rules. You can cut your tiles in whatever size you want. There are no rules.
However John is right. Not every tile is that easy to cut. And sometimes you can't use the cuts on visible joints because they are not so good looking as the factory edges.
Sometimes when the cuts with a tile cutter are not satisfyingly, we cut the tiles with our wet saw with variable speed combined with a high end cutting blade. The results are very very good. But as John mentioned, It needs more time.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
@John: Point taken that besides knowing what you are doing, it can still be very time consuming to achieve perfection.
@3-D: Ah, know what a wet-saw is as husband owns and operates a Machine Shop so if the need arises I just might try it ... not to say that I will be successful as there are some things that are better left up to the experts. :)
I do a lot of work here in Vancouver for homeowners tiling their own projects. Learning and installing the showers waterproofing system is not something many people wish to tackle on their own home.
Our friend Bertram is from my home town and like me faces some of the toughest inspections in North America. He and I have meet personally and discussed the challenges that these barrier free and custom shower projects present. It was a pleasure listening to Bertram's review of European standards as they compare to our North American. It is clear to me that he like to build above our local build codes requirements.
A tiled shower will offer up a lifetime of service if built properly. Last year we demo'd a perfectly good shower to make room for a level entry. The shower was 85 years old! No mold. Perfect.
Mocking up curb details, niche corners and grout samples will show the skill of your installer. You may find resistance to preform these safety checks - but it's your shower, your money and it will be you that enjoys it daily.
Good Luck!
JW
Thanks for your lovely statement. Indeed I try every time to build my tilework according to the German standard which is way above our local building code requirements here in Vancouver.
However I am happy that these local building codes exist because these building codes and also all the recommendations from the Tile Council of North America (TCNA), the National Tile Contractors Association (NTCA) as well as the Terrazo Tile & Marble Association of Canada (TTMAC) protect the customer and their investment. Furthermore it helps to save hundreds or even thousands of showers from going to the landfill. Sometimes I really think John and I are the only two tile setters around here who cares all about this.
However I don't want to judge tile contractors. In most cases they don't know it better because mostly they gained their knowledge from other colleges or from their own experiences over the Years. This is not wrong at all, but it is very often not enough.
In Germany you can't open any business without being a Master. And to apply for a master education, which is one Year in "full time" or 4 Years at evening school, you have to prove that you have worked at least 3 Years in this trade after your 3 Year apprenticeship in the same trade. That means you have at least 7 Years in total, practical and theoretical experience before you can start your own business. (Presupposed you have passed the master exam.)
John is also right with his statement: "A tiled shower will offer up a LIVETIME of service if built properly." That's absolutely through! But it will also cost you a bit more because it needs mostly more time and furtermore the proper materials.
For example: The people in Germany renovate their bathroom to modernize them not because of leakage, mold or mildew. And the time between these renovations is usually in between 15 and 25 years of use. All depends how much money they have to do a makeover because it is expensive.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
You might entertain the idea of have your stain glass sealed in new window unit. A non wood window frame will hold up much better than a wood one. I have found the product called Kerdi Fix a great waterproofing material to tie my shower waterproofing into the vynal window frames.
The bottom sill should be tilted to prevent water from sitting on that ledge.
Good luck! Let me know if you need some pictures of that process
JW
In recent years, conventional wisdom has been that one should expect project costs to greatly exceed initial plans/budgets .. which I don't buy. But if it's because the professionals don't identify ancillary tasks that may greatly affect the cost, then they should be telling homeowners about it as early as possible, so it can be worked into the budget or the design changed.
The real biggie, even in a project that *is* fully specified and with an appropriately detailed bid, is simply running into unexpected (and unforeseeable) problems that require further work. You simply never know what you're going to find once you start opening up walls.
Things like knowing that tempered glass is required in the shower are pretty basic, though.
Did the designer who is working on this project provide you with a full set of detailed drawings and specifications, showing exactly what is to be demolished, along with the details of what will be added and/or changed? Perhaps he did indicate the needed change on drawings but never mentioned it to you? He *should* have brought it up, and pointed it out to you in going over the drawings in detail with you to ensure that you understood what was going to happen (or was proposed), but sometimes things slip through the cracks.
The orange sheet you refer to is a product called Ditra. It is a good option but limits your selection of setting materials (tile mortar) you can use. It also limits the size of tile that can be used. It also limits the length of your warranty. I have dozens and dozens of projects that I built with Ditra and have never had a call back. I have an equal number of jobs with cement board also with no call backs.
The epoxy grouts, urethane grouts are a lot more money and this discussion I will try and cover in a future Ideabook. No way I can go there right now. I used Urethan Grout on my kitchen counters - I thought I had tested and researched this subject to death. I'm less than impressed with Urethane Grout and so far my pick would by an epoxy grout - but they are not created equal either. The pro line from Laticrete is looking good but my product testing is still to young to give any kind of solid opinion.
In my daughters shower I used a regular grout from Mapei - Ultracolour.
Ready to tile showers are a scam. Many require an epoxy thinset and have incredible flex. I viewed the Tile Ready shower bases in Las Vegas and was not impressed at all. If you want an easier system look up the shower kits from Noble Company, Laticrete, Wedi or Schluter. Remember to plan your tile choice first since this kits can limit the size and type of tile you use. The tile manufacture should recommend the thin set so finding first what you like in tile is a good place to start.
Build the shower backwards on paper. Do all the recommendations work together.
Laticrete has a new shower base and drain. With the right product selection you can get a 25 year warranty. Pretty impressive. I'm not sure if the IAPMO Certification is out yet but it should be soon. This is a good option.
If your building a steam shower then Noble Company would be my first choice in shower packages. They are producing the best products for steam management - I have found no better.
The glass tiles or better the glass mosaic itself is not the problem. The mesh and how the glass mosaic pieces are glued to the mesh is the problem. Subway tiles are not mounted on a mesh so if they are properly installed and with the right thinset (no matter if horizontally or vertically) everything should be fine.
"Can a good installer prevent these problems...." The answer is NO. No installer can change the mesh or the glue which was used to mount the mosaic pieces to the mesh. However an experienced installer should be able to tell you whether you can use the mosaic for wet areas or not.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
I have designed and fabricated many custom stained glass panels for clients. Depending on how yours is made, I assume the caming (metal splines framing each piece of glass) is zinc. Is there evidence of putty locking in the glass on both sides and a clear finish protecting the caming? If you can wiggle ANY of the glass pieces, there isnt any putty. This putty fills any voids between the glass and caming. It should be firm but removable with a hard pointed object. If you can poke it, then it has putty, but maybe not enough if some pieces wiggle. This makes the panel water shedding (not water tight or water resistant) For centuries stained glass has been used in windows that have withstood the test of time. Think of Gothic Churches. Because of the chlorine in most water, I suspect the caming will eventually show signs of corroding (powdery white residue). You can protect the window from tap water by placing a protective tempered glass panel in front of it, thus also facilitating cleaning. I would also permit ventilation of the space between so as to reduce fogging and permitting any rogue water to drain. If you want to be sure about the things I mentioned above, take your window to a stained glass artist to find out for sure how it was made or ask the artist who made it for you.
The big headache is thickness differences. Some glass tiles used for accents are very thin when compared to the field tile. Its a bit more time consuming, but I butter the back of each sheet along with mortaring the wall. This is an extra thick bed that will ooze out of the grout joints. BUT, the surfaces will be flush with the adjacent field tile. Use a plastic v shaped tool to remove the mortar from the gout lines before it sets up. Much like striking the joints in brick.work. A dry toothbrush also helps clean up the grout lines. Don't set more tile than you can work with in 30 minutes time.
The answer is yes, BUT you have to do it RIGHT !!!
I definitely do not recommend installing marble in a "traditional" performed shower pan with a pan liner and a mortar bed/mud bed !!! This mud bed acts like a sponge and holt's the water actually for ever because It'll never dry out ! So your marble (which is very porus) stays practically in the water at all time.
A perfect environment for Mold and mildew and be sure it will grow very fast. ☻
Please read this article before you decide to go with marble in a shower.
Regards,
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
Maple Ridge, BC (Greater Vancouver)
http://www.3D-Tile-Design.ca
Careful with clear glass tile since you can risk "Ghosting" or the appearance of water trapped behind the tile.
Make sure the tile you choose is acceptable for showers and wet areas. And always check with the manufacture of the glass tile on which setting material is needed.
JW
Have you agreed to one price for your shower tiling? Is the tile guy getting paid extra to build and tile the niche?
How have you discussed the edges??? Mitered corners. Schluter profile. Lap joint.....
It often takes us days of baby steps to build our niches perfectly. Not days of work but each step taking a day. I think you should address the money side of this niche build of yours. You might find if you have room for an extra $150.00 in the job - Anything is possible.
If you are expecting it done for the square footage price given a few weeks back and a niche is a pop up idea you might find huge resistance in building it nicely.
Good Luck. JW
Did your contractor mention what kind of material he had in mind and how the "whole piece shower wall" will be be installed? And what's the reason for his suggestion? Without this information it is hard to give you a valuable advice on that.
Cheers Bertram
When don right these are great showers. However I see so many stone installers installing with construction adhesive verses a S1 or S2 setting material like an Ardex X32 or Grani Rapid setting material.
When the tile size jumps to a 1'x3' or 2'x2' there is very little grout lines but also much more care to make perfect.
You also should be careful in choosing natural slabs that might change appearance with steam and moisture. For the shower floor some kind of slip resistance will be needed or some bead or glass blasting to add texture to the slab material.
Your contractor might be thinking a fiberglass wall material instead of slab. This is very common and can be done like tile or slab but is not a building plan we follow here in Vancouver.
JW
Whether or not that is a "good idea" also depends largely on what sort of look you're after as well as the nature of the materials chosen.
Tile will give you many more options than any monolithic surface, but few things are as beautiful as well-chosen and well-matched marble slabs. Book-matching is most common, although there are other methods depending on the stone - here are some examples. https://www.google.com/search?q=book+matched+marble&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=sXn&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=uKP8UIfTCqnBiwKs_wE&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1626&bih=826
That may not be the look you are after, though. Any of the man-made materials like Cambria Stone, Vetrazzo, Silestone, etc. will mostly have a more uniform appearance than natural stone that tends to be more contemporary, although a few can be used in a more traditional setting. None of them will display the character and individuality of marble, however.
With tile, however (of any material, or a combination), the options explode exponentially, limited only by the imagination.
That's your starting point - how you want the whole thing to look (and feel) when it's finished, as well as how it fits with the rest of your home, and of course your budget.
I would urge you to avoid fiberglass unless you absolutely cannot afford anything else and cannot wait to install it until you can. It looks really cheap, and I suspect that if you are looking around on Houzz you are after something with a lot more style and substance. Even the plainest, cheapest white tile will look better.
Oftentimes contractors may want to install this stuff just because it's cheap and they can do it fast. A proper stone slab or tile shower installation takes more time, know-how, and precision.
No matter what you choose, however, the quality of the installation will make all the difference in how well it holds up over time. No matter what they tell you, do *not* let the installers cheap out and install anything like stone or tile with adhesive. It fails frequently even in dry locations, never mind wet. I can't comment at all about how to install fiberglass or the like; they aren't materials I'd ever specify.
I'll tell you from personal experience, however (because it is what was in my own house when I bought it), that fiberglass shower pans fail, and when that happens, you will end up with a mold problem from the water damage, if not also structural damage if you don't catch it in time. The very flexibility of this material, even on walls, is going to make it harder to keep it properly attached and sealed to keep the water out. This is also what will result from an improper tile installation. Do it right to start with.
HTH.
Wendy
I wish more designers understood that stone installers are frequently using construction adhesive in their slab installation.
I would be so pissed if I bought me new dream house to find that the slab fell off the wall because the adhesive became dry and brittle.
Likewise, I would not want to be in a shower built like that if we had a large earthquake!
Simply things to specify when contracting out this type of work. Good questions to ask your contractor. Make sure the contractor, the fabricator and the installer understand this as well. Here in Vancouver often their is a language barrier when the installers show up.
Cross your t's and dot your i's - or you'll get what you get and you might get upset.
JW
I think that mosaic is fabulous! Providing your grout doesnt exceed 1/2", you can use a single component grout and you'll never have to worry about stains, mildew or sealing. Look into Fusion Pro by Custom Building Products.