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The possibilites for trim are positively endless. I wanted to keep things pretty simple for our 1900 cabin-style home, but I also wanted to let the trim draw the eye and showcase our view to the backyard. I got lost in all of the choices online. So I pulled back, checked out our local home store and went with my gut. Luckily, I found installing the trim to be a much easier process than picking it.
Lingo to know:
If you are replacing trim on existing windows, remove all of the trim down to the rough opening with a small pry bar.
Tip: To avoid damaging your walls when prying off the trim, place a large putty knife between the pry bar and the wall.
If you've just installed windows, you're good to go. Start by measuring the length and depth of the bottom of the rough opening to determine the dimensions for the stool.
Use a miter box or miter saw to cut all the trim pieces to the desired length.
For the interior casing, we used rosette corner blocks, so the need for slightly more difficult angled miters was eliminated. If a mitered corner is more up your alley, use the miter box or miter saw's guides for quick and precise angled cuts.
Place the stool inside the rough opening and ensure that it is level. If needed, use shims to level the stool. Attach it to the window's base with 2-inch finishing nails.
Install the apron under the stool. Typically, the apron is the casing turned upside down, which is what we have done here.
Measure the length from side casing to side casing to determine the length of the apron. Cut and install the apron, ensuring that it is level and plumb with the outside dimensions of each side casing. There are numerous ways to finish the ends of the apron; we left our ends blunt.
Another window trim element is the cove mold, which is attached to the apron just beneath the stool, but we chose to forgo that element.