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| Know your enemy. Weeds come in two general categories: 1. Annual weeds have a life cycle of one growing season. They germinate from a seed then flower, produce seeds and die. They’re fast growing and typically have a shallow root system. Annual weeds include plants like purslane (Portulaca oleracea, pictured), prostrate spurge (Chamaesyce maculata) and redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus). 2. Perennial weeds are those that come back year after year and tend to have an aggressive root system. Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale), common mallow (Mallow neglecta), Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense) and bind weed (Convolvulus arvensis) are all examples of perennial weeds. Cultivated ornamental plants, given the right conditions, may become weeds as well. Some yarrow species (Achillea spp), English ivy (Hedera spp) and orange hawkweed (Hieracium auranticum) are just a few examples. Work with your local garden center or extension office to identify your problem plants. Once you understand the life cycle of the weeds you’re fighting, you can target your eradication efforts. |
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| Choose your weapons. Weed control can be accomplished by cultural practices, hand and mechanical means, biological controls (insects or goats) or chemicals (synthetic or organic). Here we'll focus on hand and mechanical techniques that can be employed throughout the growing season and that, with consistent use, will provide adequate weed control for most home landscapes and gardens. |
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| 5 Strategies for Keeping Weeds at Bay Plan your control techniques to correspond with the seasonal life cycle of your weeds: seed germination or aggressive new growth, flower and seed production, or root development. To have a fighting chance in the war on weeds, you need to attack them repeatedly! 1. Don’t let seedlings develop into plants. Weeds are much faster to get rid of when they’re tiny plants with tiny roots. Get out your hoe or hand cultivator and dislodge the seedlings from the soil. Once the roots are exposed to the air the plant will desiccate, die and decompose back into the soil. This strategy is especially useful for annual weeds but can be employed against young perennials as well. |
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| 4. Create a strong defense. Proper planting and gardening techniques (also known as cultural practices) can go a long way in preventing weeds from gaining a foothold in your yard. A healthy lawn that is properly maintained — fertilized, mowed and irrigated on a regular schedule — will typically outcompete most weeds. Densely planted garden beds with well-mulched soil surfaces also have a fighting chance against weeds. 5. Stay on top of it. Make weeding a weekly gardening activity. Although you may never eradicate weeds from your garden completely, the more often you weed, the less time it takes, and you will see a net overall reduction in the amount of POOP in your yard. More: 5 Weed-Smothering Ground Covers |
The focus of this article is on non-chemical weed control.
one trick i learned while working on an organic farm in italy was to plant leaf lettuce seed in the garden to keep weeds down and the soil moist. put some of the seeds around bean seeds and other slower growing seeds. once the bean or other seeds start coming up, pull the lettuce and eat it, compost or feed to chickens. i also sprinkled lettuce seed into the crevices of a rock wall to outcompete the dandelions and mallow. seems to be doing the trick.
We tried the "eco-friendly" way for YEARS, and found more and more weeds and a weekly, 1/2 day chore. We now only have to do a walk around once a month to stay on top of it. Thanks for the "natural" way...but no thanks.
Back to the subject; I find when I do have to weed the areas that are with River Rock (no flowers) the easiest and best form of attack is the use of 'road salt'. Just a sprinkle watered down with some water, kills them dead. For those who may argue, not healthy for the environment; tell that to those living in the Great White North and see what response you will get back. I double dare you. :) Also, scalding water poured directly on weeds works wonders.
Very imformative article Jocelyn (thank you) and yes I also use some of the methods you suggested.
Footnote: FTR, the applicaton of herbicides (and insecticides) are restricted in our Province (State) so keeping ahead of destructive weeds( and insects) are an ongoing battle. If one finds something that works that is within Provincial guidelines, they use it.
A weed is telling you something about the ground it's growing in. It's often a 'pioneer' plant that waits until it's favoured conditions appear before germinating - i.e. compacted, acidic, soil etc. We create these conditions then leave the earth bare.
To establish something else, simply place wet newspaper or cardboard down on top of it, add some compost a bit of straw mulch and plant right on top. Works great for that famous time money and energy sink : 'lawn' - grow something productive over that stuff! :)
The cheapest weedkiller, for those times when you need to wipe out swathes of them, is the generic glyphosate concentrate sold at Walmart and some hardware stores. It makes a gallon of weedkiller for less than the cost of a gallon of vinegar.
Another option is simply to cover the weeds. For larger weeds or ones with deep roots I place an overturned clay pot saucer over the weed. For even larger weeds or a larger area I use an overturned black garbage can or black plastc. I've even used a small child's wading pool for certain areas. The idea is to deprive the weeds of sunlight. For a double whammy, I've used boiling water coupled with an overturned saucer/pot/garbage can. The heat stays longer and cooks those bad boys.
You want to pour the hot water over the plant and soak the root. Once you have your yard under control it only takes a few kettles of boiling water a week to keep your yard weed free.
Houzzers, please don't use Roundup or other noxious chemicals in your garden or at all. (Google Roundup and its manufacturer, Monsanto)
Cardboard does work very well suppressing weeds and the earthworm like it too.
Let's have wonderful, healthy gardens.
In my practice I use vinegar to remove sod and to remove weeds from patios, walkways and driveways. The trick is to apply it during the hottest part of the day and when it is sunny. I will not plant in that area for several weeks and only after a few good rains. Since it is a non-selective herbicide I do not use it around plants choosing to hand pull weeds in those areas. Commercial vinegar is expensive but effective for large areas. I buy regular vinegar since I also use it to clean around the house. Using salt is a very bad idea.
The attached image shows a lawn 1 hour after we applied vinegar to open the bedline.