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by Meg Padgett
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| 1. Measure and plan. After you've applied the base color, measure the height (for horizontal stripes) or width (for vertical stripes) of your wall so that you can size and space the stripes evenly. Once you have that info, measure and mark each stripe. Use a level to ensure that the lines are straight. I traced lines with pencil over the length of the wall for error-free guides. I used 12-inch stripes for most of the wall, starting from the center, which left smaller stripes on the top and bottom. To make it easier on myself, I chose to paint the top and bottom stripes white to match the trim. Note: Take into account any fixtures and features that occupy the wall, such as lighting. You'll want to plan the stripes so the feature will sit inside one of them rather than straddling two. |
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by Meg Padgett
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| 2. Tape off your stripes. After you have chosen the stripes that will be painted, tape them off with painter's tape by running the tape along the top and bottom of the corresponding pencil lines. Repeat the process for any additional stripes. This will create wide and narrow stripes. In this case, you will only be working with the wider stripes. Run your finger along the edge of the tape to ensure good contact with the wall and remove any air pockets. Note: For this project, I tested both Frog Tape and Blue Painter's Tape and achieved the same perfect results for each. Think masking tape is a great substitute? Think again. Masking tape can leave a sticky residue and pull the paint off the wall, leaving unsightly bare spots that are difficult to cover. |
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by Meg Padgett
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| 3. Paint another coat of your base color. With the tape in place, paint a light coat of the base color where the tape and wall meet. Do this for both the top and bottom of where the painted stripes will be. This will create a barrier, preventing the paint you have chosen for the stripes from bleeding under the tape. |
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by Meg Padgett
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| 4. Paint your stripes. After the protective layer has dried, paint your stripes. Use a small roller to make this process quick. I chose a semigloss white for my stripes. |
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by Meg Padgett
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| 5. Let the paint dry and remove the tape. I prefer to remove the tape after the paint has dried for one hour. The paint is dry enough to avoid smudging but still flexible enough not to crack. |
I once saw a very nicely done checker board pattern, but with alternating paint sheen instead of different colors, like satin and semi gloss for instance.
You can either apply the Frog tape when the laser in is "active", or if its a manual laser, use a pencil to make small "dots" a few inches a part for curves, and a straight edge to connect them.
I've attached an example of where I've done this on curved walls on one of our projects. (I also like to use alternating paint sheens to make the curves stand out, the darker color is satin, the lighter in matte)
Thanks!
Steve
Tip: Regardless of the type of tape you decide to use (Painter's/Frog/Blue) let your paint 'cure' (not dry) prior to re-taping.
P.S: Anyone who seen it, thought it was wallpaper.
Method: Use only one colour of paint in either a matte or eggshell finish. Following the same tips, apply your pattern (stripes, checkboard, harlequins etc.) using a semi-gloss or high-gloss, non-yellowing, clear acrylic Polyurethane finish (over it).
Tip: When you decide to re-paint, the Poly areas should be lightly sanded and primed before you do so.
P.S: I've been doing my own painting for at least 42 years now, so much has been learned through experimentation and a lot of trial 'n error but I am sure there are real experts out there that have even more ideas.
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