Create an ideabook for your next remodeling project!
Browse more than 1,000,000 photos from top designers and save your favorites
| Like it? Save it to your Ideabook »
|
| Should you paint your cabinetry? Before making any decisions, figure out what the existing finish is on your cabinet. If you're not sure, consider taking a door or drawer to your local paint supplier — he or she can help you with what you need to get your cabinet ready for painting. Depending on the level of work, you may want to look into hiring a professional. "Think carefully before painting your cabinetry," says Davidson. "It can be a DIY, but it requires a lot of attention and care." "Always consider the cost of possibly refacing your cabinets or replacing them altogether, and how that coordinates with your short- and long-term objectives," says Wade Thompson of ThomsonHoliday Painting. |
|
by Debra Toney
»
Like it? Save it to your Ideabook »
|
| Choosing the best paint for cabinets. If you're not working with a professional, look for paint at a local, reputable paint supply store, where the staff can help you pick the right product for your cabinets. Choose a paint that can stand up to repeated washing and is nonblocking, so it won't stick to itself when the cabinet doors are closed. Also, know that dark colors tend to show imperfections in the paint and cabinetry much more than light colors do — and, contrary to popular belief, they usually highlight dirt more, too. Having trouble choosing a color? Check out these kitchen cabinetry palettes. |
Between coats we sand with 3m sanding sponges (fine) spritzed with distilled water. Sandpaper on uncured enamel will often cause the paint to roll-up. Use a super-light touch.
Finally, most natural wood cabinets that were built in U.S. factories (99% I'll bet) are finished with a lacquer-based varnish. So wiping the surface with lacquer thinner will open the finish and help the primer to adhere. In Canada, water-bourne polyurethane or UV finishes are common (because of lower VOC requirements) and both can be difficult to paint over. Acetone is often required to open those types of finishes.
Yes, this can be a daunting project but once you get some systems down, its not too bad. We turn most kitchens around in about 1-1/2 weeks from start to finish.
We spray the primer (tinted to match the paint) on the doors in a portable booth, then lay the doors out on the ladder with wax paper under them. (DIY'ers should prime with a brush because spraying is a mess.) We prime the face frames with a 4" roller and tip with a brush and then apply two top coats using the same technique. Then we re-hang the doors and apply both top coats on the doors with a brush. Since the primer is the same color, you don't really have to cut-in the paint to the hinge (just get close). A variation on that is to apply the primer and one top coat while the doors are off and apply the second coat with the door attached. It's a lot faster to brush doors when they are on the hinge and you don't have to worry so much about dinging them when you hang them.
If you get the cabinets really clean, the paint will stick without using lacquer thinner. However, if you sand and wipe with lacquer thinner, you eliminate the surface variations caused by residue from the cleaners. I find it especially difficult to rinse TSP and Soft-Scrub adequately without solvents. The solvent gives the surface some tooth and helps pull the paint from the brush too. But it really stinks and may not be a good idea in a house that is occupied by the owner.
Last tip: Flood Flo-trol is a paint additive sold everywhere that really improves the flow of the paint and can help a DIY'er make moldings and cabinets look professional. Lots of pro's use it.
I painted the inside of the doors but not the inside of the cabinet since it was already an interesting reddish finish. It did take seven days to paint this, and I am a professional, so yes, a whole kitchen would be a big job.
Sorry i didn't think to take the before picture before I actually started painting, you can see the top of the buffet has already received a first coat. On the second picture you can also see the rustic faux finish I painted on the walls, as chosen by the designer. I think it's a nice fit, especially since the floor is slate.
Gina Fitzsimmons ASID Annapolis, Md.
Gina Fitzsimmons ASID, Annapolis, Md.
Gina Fitzsimmons ASID, Annapolis Md.
2 months after this buffet was done I was asked by the customer to refinish the counter part, as it had scratched and was stained with water marks. This is where they keep their cappuccino machine, and as it turns out the graphite color shows signs of wear and tear much more than a paler color. I have since struggled to refinish that counter top, repainting it and finishing it with different alternative solutions but nothing yet looks good enough. Lesson learned: ASCP with wax may not be the ideal finish for counter tops (or tables tops for that matter). But the rest of the cabinet looks fine.