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by R. Olson Design
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| 2. Framing square. These dedicated right angles keep projects square, especially during assembly. A large square measuring 24 by 16 inches gets the most use in cabinetry, for which perfectly square boxes are critical. Framing squares also come in handy for checking square edges on large workpieces, such as plywood and doors. Smaller dedicated squares also come in handy for tighter spaces where standard 24-inch squares cannot fit. With the help of a square, which runs a line along the workpiece opposite the piece to be attached, accuracy in nailing, screwing or stapling becomes nearly foolproof. |
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by R. Olson Design
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| 3. Try square. Similar to larger framing squares, try squares are dedicated right angles. However, unlike framing squares, try squares have a metal blade fastened into a wooden handle rather than single-body construction. The thicker wooden handle provides a lip on either edge of the blade, allowing the tool to rest on the workpiece more easily than its larger single-bodied counterpart. |
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by R. Olson Design
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| 4. Combination square. A favorite of many woodworkers, the combination square is one of the most versatile tools in the shop. In its simplest form, the combo verifies square edges and flat surfaces of workpieces. Beyond that purpose, the adjustable head of the combo is crucial for calibrating or checking machinery and laying out joinery. Because of this tool's practicality, most shops have several combination squares on hand in sizes ranging from 4 to 12 inches. |
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by R. Olson Design
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| 6. Short rule. A tape measure can be used in a pinch as a ruler, but it can be a bit clunky, especially for making critical measurements in the middle of a workpiece. A flat 6-inch ruler fits nicely in a pocket and makes meticulous measurements in 1/64-inch increments a snap. Each edge on a good ruler will offer measurements in different increments, meaning inches on one edge will be divided by eighths of an inch, and the most precise edge will be broken down into 64ths of an inch. |
The little ear-plugs on a headband are useless. Get the kind that fully cover your ears.
With the noise down to a level you can handle, the saws are less scary.
I am English,over 60 now and grew up with imperial feet and inches.
Do yourself a favour if you are going to build to a high level of accuracy, change to metric, no fractions to confuse you and while you are doing that get a measuring implement that is needed and not mentioned here, a metre (or yard) metal straight edge/ruler.
If you have a T bevel you won't need a protractor when you already have the angle you need on the bevel. I use a bevel often can't remember the last time I used a protractor off the drawing board.
One last thing for accuracy is a sharp pencil and a scratch awl, a pencil mark that is over a millimetre 1/16" wide can really mess up a piece of cabinet work, measuring is important but meaningless without an accurate way of marking it.
Useful tool for any construction/carpentry work is a roofer's speed square like the one in the pic'.
Also remember the easiest way to check a rectangle for square is to measure the diagonals, if they are different you have made a boo boo somewhere.
If you are doing something larger than your squares and you want to check for 90 degrees don't forget Pythagoras! Go 3 units down one side and 4 units down the adjacent side the distance between those two marks should be 5 of the same units, if not ? Another boo boo!
Also, check out the local community colleges or adult education groups which often have woodworking classes available. There you can have the benefit of using expensive equipment without the investment. I believe some universities even have wood shops where you can buy access and pay for the usage by the hour.
I admit to being intimidated by table saws, especially job site ones without any guards. So, I stick to chop saws, circular saws and jigsaws. I had a near miss with an very powerful reciprocating saw and an awkward angled cut which reminded me that I'm never going to be as competent as those who have been doing this work exclusively for a couple of decades and have a foot of height and 50 pounds in weight on me. But, they will never outthink me so I just measure and mark what I want cut and have someone else do the cutting while I get prepared for the next step.
P.S: I have a Victorian Doll House kit which I received years ago that I had great expectations of completing. As things go, twelve years later it still sits in the box so it is now slated as my To-Do Project when I go into a Retirement Home some day provided that is, they allow their residents to be in possesion of glue and small power tools both of which might have to be smuggled in. Winks!
@Bobbi: Well at least we got some advantage out of our Home Ec classes. Ü Also, I always have a tape measure in my purse. Part of being a sewer I guess.
I am lucky to have a Woodcraft store nearby that offers classes. I am going to take some basic classes just to learn about use and maintenance of my tools.
I sent an email to the Rotozip people asking them to consider making a smaller "female friendly" handled saw. I feel like I can't grip the tool properly b/c of the size. A whole line of lighter weighter, smaller handled tools would be awesome. But really do not make them pink!