courtyard
Instructions: 1. Plug any drainage holes. Buy one rubber stopper for every hole in the bottom of your vessel and make sure they all fit snugly. Turn the pot upside down and apply sealer around the outside of the plugs before inserting them. Once they’re in, leave about ¼ inch extending from each hole, and apply more sealant around the exposed areas of the plugs. Repeat until all the holes except one are plugged and sealed. 2. Measure your power cord. Turn the pot right side up and thread the fountain cord through the remaining hole in the vessel. Using a pencil, mark the amount of slack needed between the fountain and the exit hole, then turn the pot upside down again, leaving the plug and cord exposed. 3. Insert the power cord. Using a drill with a ⅜-inch bit, drill a hole lengthwise through the remaining stopper. Using a utility knife, cut a slit up one side of the stopper, then wedge the cord into the center hole until the pencil mark you made is even with the bottom of the plug. Apply sealant into the slit and around the side of the plug, then place it in the hole. Apply more sealant around the exposed edges of the plug and the cord opening. Wait 24 hours before turning t...
Not just any pot will do, as some are too porous. Elizabeth McDavid-Llaguno of Designs by Elizabeth recommends cast-concrete pottery — like the kind she used in this project — for its durability and range of finishes and patinas. Don’t rule out repurposing an antique that’s gathering dust in the garage. “To use antique pottery, you must first make sure that the item is high fired,” says McDavid-Llaguno. “High-fired pottery is kiln fired [at] over 2,100 degrees Fahrenheit.” It’s best to use glazed pottery, because it is less porous and better at withstanding the water and pressure. “Chinese and Vietnamese pottery with a rustic glaze is always a great way to evoke the look of timeworn pottery,” McDavid-Llaguno notes.
Cost range: The equipment that makes the fountain work is very inexpensive — you can find fountain kits starting at less than $30 at hardware and garden stores. But the cost of the actual project will vary according to the container you choose. Typical project length: One day. Best time to start: Unless you live in a temperate climate, it’s best to begin after the last freeze. Tip: If temperatures in your area regularly dip below freezing, empty your fountain and bring the working components indoors over winter to avoid damage. Materials and equipment: ◦Fountain kit ◦Vessel ◦Rubber stoppers (one for each hole in the bottom of your vessel) ◦Silicone adhesive sealant
Orange Rocket Barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Orange Rocket’) In a tapestry of green, blue and gold, this bold splash of ruby foliage is a welcome punctuation point from spring until fall. Orange Rocket is a relatively new introduction, noted for its upright growth habit and striking color; it turns to fiery shades of orange and red in fall. Origin: Garden hybrid Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 4 to 9) Water requirement: Low Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Deer and rabbit resistant; drought tolerant When to plant: Spring or fall Note: Check with your local cooperative extension or county extension office before planting to see if barberry is considered invasive where you live.
Chinese Stewartia (Stewartia sinensis) This small tree has it all — beautiful bark for winter interest, white, fragrant camellia-like blooms in summer and vivid red fall color. The smooth bark of the Chinese stewartia is noted for its mottled appearance, which is revealed as sheets as the outer layers peel away. Plant this beauty in an area with protection from strong winds and late frosts. Origin: Asia Where it will grow: Hardy to -10 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 6 to 9) Water requirement: Average to moist soil Light requirement: Sun or partial shade Mature size: To 25 feet tall and 15 feet wide When to plant: Spring or fall
Red Spider Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum ‘Red Spider’; syn. Acer palmatum ‘Beni kumo-no-su’) Delicate spider-like leaves are the highlight of this small Japanese maple; they emerge red and mature to a bronze-green before turning to vivid scarlet in fall. Origin: Canada Where it will grow: Hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 5 to 8) Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Mature size: 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide in 10 years When to plant: Spring or fall
‘Shirazz’ is always the star of the spring garden. This hardy cultivar from New Zealand grows to 20 feet in height and can handle more sun than many Japanese maple cultivars. As with ‘Manyo no sato’, more sun intensifies its foliage color. ‘Shirazz’ is very similar to the American-bred ‘Geisha Gone Wild’. Whichever one you purchase, be prepared to be wowed.
Manyo no sato’ is a rare cultivar that is worth finding. It sports lime-green foliage heavily splashed with dark purple. This tree can handle more sun than many of the others; indeed, more sun intensifies its foliage color. This tree is underplanted with the sun-tolerant Inky Fingers coleus in my garden. The similarity of foliage color allows each plant’s shape, size and texture to really stand out.
Higasayama’ is a bright green beauty. This very hardy cultivar grows to a height of 20 to 25 feet. ‘Higasayama’ can handle full sun but maintains its best color in filtered shade. This tree is best allowed to shine on its own. A large underplanting of a dark green fern, such as Japanese beech fern (Phegopteris decursive-pinnata, zones 4 to 10), would be appropriate.
Recently many new varieties of Japanese maples have been introduced into the market. Cultivars with variegated foliage have sparked particular interest. Perhaps your garden is in need of an update. A variegated Japanese maple may be just the thing to spark the renovation. ‘Butterfly’ is undoubtedly the best known variegated Japanese maple. This upright tree reaches an average height of 7 to 12 feet, making it a perfect focal point for a small urban garden. Its white and green variegated foliage brightens up a shady corner of the garden. The leaves may scorch in full sun. An occasional branch that sports solid green foliage is best removed. ‘Butterfly’ is beautifully suited for underplanting with a white variegated hosta, such as Patriot (Hosta ‘Patriot’, zones 3 to 8); River Mist Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium ‘River Mist’, zones 4 to 9); or a sea of glossy deep green holly ferns (Cyrtomium falcatum ‘Rochfordianum’, zones 6 to 10). Similar varieties to consider would be the fastigiate ‘Orido Nishiki’ and the small, mounded ‘Toyama Nishiki’.
Kagiri Nishiki’ is a beautiful cultivar similar to ‘Butterfly’ but with pink added into the mix. This upright tree grows to an average height of 10 to 15 feet. Consider underplanting this variety with strawberry begonia (Saxifraga stolonifera, zones 6 to 9). This ground cover sports silvery white variegated foliage that’s pink underneath, with pink stems.
I was speechless the first time I encountered ‘Hana Matoi’. This rare mounding dwarf reaches a 10-year height of only 2 to 3 feet on its own, so it is usually grafted onto a taller trunk. In spring the leaves emerge as a feisty mix of purple, pink and cream; the purple changes to green as temperatures warm, but the pink and cream remain well into the summer months. ‘Hana Matoi’ grows in my garden amidst pink Visions astilbe (Astilbe chinensis ‘Visions’, zones 4 to 8), where it makes a beautiful June display.
Other Japanese maples, such as the red-leafed ‘Bloodgood’, Emperor 1 and coral bark maple (Acer palmatum ‘Sango Kaku’), have an upright growth pattern and typically reach 15 to 25 feet in height. Not all Japanese maples are created equal. My experience has shown that many people purchase upright varieties with the misconception that they will stay under 8 feet in height. A bit of research on the front end will spare you future disappointment.
Japanese maples (Acer palmatum cvs) are suited for gardens in USDA zones 5 to 8 (find your zone). They generally grow best in areas with morning sun and afternoon shade; red-leafed varieties can cope with more sun than can the green cultivars. Indeed, the sun intensifies the red pigments, which act as a sort of natural sunscreen. They prefer slightly moist, well-drained to average soil and require regular water (1 inch per week). The mounding red leaf form is the quintessential Japanese maple that immediately comes to mind. Popular cultivars include the older ‘Crimson Queen’ as well as more recent introductions such as ‘Tamukeyama’ and ‘Red Dragon’. These cut-leafed trees, botanically called dissectum, rarely surpass a height of 8 feet and a spread of 12 feet
Block a Street View When your home is on a busy street, creating a peaceful backyard space begins with the right fence. If you want to allow some light in, pick a fence with small gaps between boards (or even a lattice-like design) and layer lush plantings on both sides to provide additional privacy. Or try a frosted glass design, as shown here. As with privacy fencing, it can be helpful to test out the fence height you are considering before you commit.
Feel Secure The most important features to have for a security fence are a taller height, a lack of places to grip and a sturdy, lockable gate. Any security fence should be at least 8 feet high, although you can add a few feet of trellis to the top of a 6-foot fence for security that doesn’t look quite so imposing. Choose a fence with flush boards and no horizontal rails on the outside, to deter potential intruders from attempting to climb it.
With wine bottles. Bottle trees are common in the southern United States, where legend portrays them as a way to capture evil spirits. Typically a metal frame or pieces of rebar are placed in the ground and topped with inverted wine bottles. For this creative take on a bottle tree, wine bottles were threaded onto pieces of rebar, making a unique and whimsical privacy screen.
Incorporated into a gate. The fact that rebar is easily bent makes it a logical choice for use in a custom gate or fence. In an installation such as this, it is important to keep in mind that rust is easily transferred to hands and clothing. Once the gate has rusted to the desired degree, you may want to seal it with a good application of clear coat.
Magestic furcraea macdougalli lines the wall to anchor this blue Southern California garden. Festuca glauca (shown in the foreground) quickly grows big and bushy, adding a beachy feel to an otherwise desert garden.
An edgy water feature. There is something to be said for the tranquil beauty a natural-looking waterfall adds to a woodland garden. Perhaps, however, you live in an urban environment or just want something unique. Consider a trough (spillway) installation, such as the one shown here, made of metal or perhaps even thick cast glass. This water feature provides the relaxing sound of falling water that we all enjoy, but does so in a very contemporary, industrial way.
Concrete fiberboard. This underused material, also known as backer board, is manufactured for use as a substrate for tile floors and shower enclosures. It consists of concrete, fiberglass mesh for reinforcement and Styrofoam for weight reduction. Several types of concrete board are available. Be sure to pick one that does not contain paper. Its low price, light weight and availability make concrete board a contender for a variety of outdoor applications. It can be cut with a circular saw that’s been fitted with a diamond blade. Be advised that the application of a good concrete sealer will increase its longevity outdoors. Concrete board is useful for building privacy screens and small non-load-bearing walls. A simple frame of outdoor-grade lumber can be clad with this material, creating a unique and beautiful garden structure. The texture and color striations of concrete board mimic granite cliffs in the application shown here.
Board-formed-concrete walls. There is nothing more industrial than concrete. For walls like the ones shown here, timber-built forms are created and filled with concrete. After the concrete partially cures, the forms are removed, leaving unique patterns on the walls. As with the gabion walls, consult a professional for installation. This wall exhibits high contrast because of the industrial feel of the concrete and the unique, organic pattern of the wooden forms. It is a marriage that is appropriate in woodland gardens as well as urban enclaves.
As opposed to Mondrian’s perfect flat planes, gardens tend to be built with the third dimension. But we can still use his theories in three dimensions. Here the house and garden seem as though they have been designed as one. Both have strong Mondrian-esque features, including rectangular planes, though the garden especially gives us a great template for creating a Mondrian design. The composition is centered around closely planted raised rectangular beds that have been separated by paved walkways and narrow planted beds. The paths and narrow plantings follow Mondrian’s belief that grid lines create paths of movement for the eye.
The beauty of this garden is without doubt the flat planes of neutral color and mixed textures, combined with the attention to detail. Some of Mondrian’s early work used much more muted colors than the bright primary colors of his later work that we are familiar with. The neutral colors here create a wonderful monotone rendering of planes and lines.
Plan a secret seating area. Follow a path lined with bamboo plantings to a hidden seating area and discover the perfect place to kick back and relax. The wicker lounge chair provides another layer of privacy when you’re seated, making this an ideal hideaway.
Living outdoors. The modern concept of outdoor rooms evolved from Mediterranean gardens, where indoor-outdoor activity can happen much of the year. A well-planned garden with mature trees and other forms of shade can be an energy-saving alternative to the air-conditioned indoors.
Celebrating water. Because of water’s scarcity in the Mediterranean, many water elements, such as narrow rills or dribbling fountains, offer only a trickle of water — just enough to prompt a feeling of relief from the heat. A larger water feature such as this one avoids excessive loss from evaporation with a burbling nozzle rather than one that cascades or sprays.
Shade. Shelter from the intense summer sun is central to Mediterranean gardens. Structures such as pergolas, loggias, arbors and arcades have been passed down to modern gardeners from the Romans
Enclosure. Originating in ancient Persia, high-walled gardens offer protection and relief from the elements. With their inward focus and protection from drying winds, walled gardens still provide sanctuary in Spain, Italy and Greece, and have been adapted in Southwestern gardens in the United States.
Love it: Faux turf Gone are the days when installing synthetic grass meant transforming your lawn into something resembling a hokey mini golf course. The new turfs are more realistic and just as durable. This homeowner made the synthetic grass look even more realistic by keeping the turf area small and breaking it up with other finishes.
Made of stone blocks cut and fitted together to form a perfect circle, this moon gate remains even through the wall itself has disappeared. And as the gate rises out of the earth, like the moon rises in the sky, it celebrates the continuous cycle of life.
In its traditional form, the moon gate is a round opening in a wall. Even when the wall is transparent, more virtual than real, the moon gate provides an opening in the barrier and a connection between two worlds. And this traveling between the two worlds becomes even more pronounced as you step up and over the threshold.
A teaching Buddha presides over this stone patio, part of a larger garden in Seattle. His right hand is raised in the jnana (knowledge or wisdom) mudra. Yogis will recognize this one — it’s when you bring the index finger and thumb tip of each hand together to form a circle.
An oasis of calm, this Buddha seems right at home meditating among the potted plants in a Los Angeles garden. Note the signature elongated ears, which signify Buddha’s ability to be all-hearing.
With its right hand raised, this walking Buddha wards off evil and protects from fear at the entryway to a master bedroom. The vivid lime-green plant at the figure’s feet is Coleonema pulchrum ‘Sunset Gold’ (Breath-of-Heaven).
Tranquility is possible even in the smallest of spaces. This small Zen garden, with its simple plants, includes a sitting Buddha with both hands in a meditative pose. The hands overlap each other, with the left hand placed on top of the right so the thumb tips touch to form an oval, symbolizing the turning of attention inward.
In spectacularly fertile Hawaii, the riotous vegetation is calmed by a bust of Buddha. Note the half-closed eyes, signifying meditation, looking outward and inward. The gorgeous purple ground cover is Hemigraphis ‘Razor’.
In this modern stone house in Austin, fashioned from gray Texas limestone, a stately reclining Buddha overlooks the water. This relaxed pose relates to a time in Buddha’s life just before he left this world behind and entered into nirvana.
Nestled on this rocky hillside is a so-called Earth Witness Buddha, which shows the holy man sitting in meditation with his left-hand palm upright in his lap and his right hand touching the earth. This represents the moment when Buddha was tempted by a demon but resisted, getting support from the earth, and finally reached enlightenment. It’s perfectly placed (respectfully high on the rocks) and surrounded by all manner of delicate grasses and perennial plants and flowers.
In this beautifully spare London terrace garden, a small seated Buddha adds to the peaceful setting. A slatted cedar trellis provides privacy and matches the cedar decking. Two feathery Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) have been pruned to show off their branch structure.
This is clumping Asian Lemon Bamboo- allow minimum 8'x8' space.
Use Japanese motifs in a modern way - In this Eastern-inspired garden in Sydney, the designer has used classic elements of Japanese gardens – rocks, a moon gate, water, Japanese maples and bamboo. But he has cleverly adapted them to a more contemporary style so the garden is a fusion of both influences.
Just add water In this same garden, we see water imaginatively used in the stylised form of many Japanese gardens. Water is an essential element in Japanese garden design, but if a pond is beyond your means, consider a water basin, or a small bamboo water spout. In larger gardens, you might opt for naturalistic streams, ponds and waterfalls with goldfish and even a bridge like this one. More: 9 Reasons You Need a Fish Pond In Your Garden.
Except for the grass the dog needs, the landscaping is drought tolerant. Black bamboo adds lush texture, privacy and noise insulation. “Black bamboo is not as invasive and water hungry as other bamboos,” Wood says.
Lotus flowers are icons of enchantment among Western gardeners, but in Asia, they’re actually a staple food source. It’s mainly the fleshy root that’s eaten. Lotuses aren’t easy to grow without a very long, hot growing season, but if you’re successful, try digging out one of the roots and incorporating it in a stir-fry along with your bamboo shoots. Plant lotuses in a rich soil mixture using a basin that is wider than tall. Once temperatures have warmed in spring, submerge the basin about 12 inches deep in a water feature to create the ultimate Zen garden ambience.
The Asian persimmon is another traditional Eastern fruit that is increasing in popularity in American gardens. As with the loquat and flowering plum, something about its appearance just feels right in an Asian-inspired garden. The fruit ripens just as the leaves turn brilliant sunset colors in autumn, and then hangs on the bare branches until the new year. Fruit trees are the perfect focal point for sunny locations in Asian landscapes. Keep the surrounding vegetation sparse to really highlight the form of the tree, limiting the understory plantings to moss, a tidy evergreen ground cover or perhaps just sand and rocks.
Design Options Texture. Concrete paving is often given a surface treatment to improve its traction and appearance. ◦Sand finish: Sand finishing gives concrete a lightly edged surface. Once the concrete is placed, special retardants are applied to etch away a thin film of the surface. After a curing period, the surface is scrubbed with machinery to remove and expose only the sand matrix of the mix. ◦Acid-etch finish: Acid etching produces a surface closely resembling that of limestone, brownstone or sandstone. After the cast element is removed from the form, the concrete is washed with an acid solution and scrubbed to remove the surface cement. With this method the exposed sand retains more sparkle than with light sandblasting.
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