Arrow. Land + Structures
Landscape Architects & Designers
Deerfield Residence Landscape Design traditional-landscape
 

Deerfield Residence Landscape Design

Designed by: Marco Romani, RLA. Landscape Architect
-- http://www.facebook.com/pages/Romani-Landscape-Architecture/202090553143747
URL
http://www.romaniarchitecture.com

This photo has 6 questions

August 9, 2014
Susan Padgett wrote:
Is that a sump pump under the grate?
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PRO
Rosebrook Pools, Inc.
Hi Susan. Romani Landscaping did the beautiful hardscape on this job, so they will be able to answer your question.
1 Like   August 9, 2014 at 7:37AM
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PRO
Arrow. Land + Structures
Hi Susan - Thank you for your question. That drain is a deep concrete catch basin with an iron grate lid on top. There is no pump inside....the yard is gently pitched to that corner and once the rain water level inside reaches a certain height, it exits through pipes that are connected to that basin. Hope this answers your question! :-)
0 Likes   August 9, 2014 at 8:30AM
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June 17, 2014
icbugs wrote:
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Arrow. Land + Structures
It’s a bit hard to say whether your stone pavers will be stable as different installers have their own preferred methods for stonework base prep. However, I can say that our own method of base composition, suitable for the Chicago/IL region, is a compacted 6" base of crushed Sandstone gravel - referred to as Grade 9 CA-6 gravel. Over that base course, we install a variable 1" course of torpedo sand as a leveling mechanism. The sand is not really an optional item...its needed for leveling every individual stone as the slabs vary greatly in thickness from 1.5" thick to 2.5" thick and the sand course allows for fine tuning. If you don’t use the sand, the stones will be uneven across their span which will cause them to rock when stepped on and will also create uneven/non-flush joints from stone to stone.

On a different note, you mention that your installer might be using compacted crushed concrete CA6 aggregate. If this is a job in the Chicago region, I would advise against that as crushed concrete gravel tends to solidify after it has been compacted and soaked with rain. The rock hard crushed concrete gravel base then loses most of its potential for flexing under heave/thaw cycles - which then defeats the whole point of having a "flexible" dry-set application which is meant to “give” a little in the winter…and “settle” a little in the spring. Furthermore, the extreme compaction characteristics of crushed concrete gravel tends to block the free flow of rain water down into the native soils which causes trapped moisture between the base course and the stone pavers. During the warm months, that might not be a big issue. However, during the cold/freezing months, trapped moisture is a big no-no under pavers as it becomes ice. Ice causes major base shifting issues as it can heave pavers far out of place.

Crushed concrete gravel is more suitable for roads, driveways, parking lots, and other bituminous/asphaltic concrete paved applications where you really don’t want a “flexible” sub-base as asphalt paving is very susceptible to cracking under excessive movement. Potholes are easily created under repeated heave/thaw cycles. Crushed concrete gravel is also a bit cheaper than crushed sandstone grade9 gravel – this may be one of the reasons why some installers prefer to use it for patios and walkways versus the more expensive crushed stone gravel. I would say that the money saving aspect of crushed concrete is certainly not worth the future problems that can arise out of using this cheaper base course for patios and walks.

All of this is just my professional opinion and I am aware that there are other generally accepted methods of base composition that vary based on region/location/application/climate and other factors and standard practices. Hope this helps!

Kind Regards,
Marco Romani, RLA
0 Likes   August 22, 2014 at 10:41PM
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icbugs
Dear Marco, I appreciate your time and trouble you have put in to answering my question. I live in Greenville, S.C. so we don't have very cold winters. I will ask the installer about the sand, though. They have not finished this project so it would not be too late to change their method. I am concerned about the rocking of the stones and I don't think it rude to mention this to them. I also realize they are not finished yet. and this project is still in the work process so perhaps they will correct the rocking of the stones. I just want to be sure the finished job is to my liking and I also don't want anyone tripping on this pathway. Again, thank you so much for your input.
1 Like   August 23, 2014 at 7:43AM
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October 20, 2013
pearliegirl wrote:
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mrearwigsr
how far away from the fence are the arborvitaes planted and what spacing between?
0 Likes   June 10, 2014 at 3:29PM
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edcs1
If these were emerald green arborvitae, how far away from the fence should they be planted? How long before 6-7 ' trees would grow to make a full screen (planted 3' apart) in CT in full sun and clay soil?
0 Likes   September 4, 2014 at 9:26PM
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April 5, 2013
porker82 wrote:
What type of grass is on the ground? - the grass is really lush, is it bermuda, st augustine, etc?...
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Arrow. Land + Structures
Hello porker82 - the grass is called Kentucky bluegrass. the reason it looks so nice and lush is because our maintenance team maintains it with a high level of care on a weekly basis.
0 Likes   April 5, 2013 at 9:54AM
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August 7, 2012
rachel101fan wrote:
what type of grass is that?
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Arrow. Land + Structures
Hello Rachel101fan, the grasses on the right side of the pic are Miscanthus sinensis 'Purpurascens'. The common name is Purple Silver Grass or Flame Grass.
0 Likes   August 10, 2012 at 9:57AM
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April 28, 2012
Penny Hurst wrote:
what type of pine trees? - The pine trees.thanks
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jcorrow
Not sure, but I think they are tree leaves.
0 Likes   October 23, 2014 at 6:21PM
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Arrow. Land + Structures
They are evergreen leaves. Fronds-like fans of evergreen needles.
0 Likes   October 23, 2014 at 6:36PM
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