pennypie0780 Thanks so much for you insightful thoughts. These are all just daily occurrences for you, but for those of us trying to anticipate, these 'true life' suggestions are great!!

John Whipple - By Any Design ltd. Thanks for all the insights everyone. I wanted to comment on the building code questions. There are actually very little building codes when it comes to building a shower. Basics are covered like the size of the floor and wall framing material, size and type of plumbing waste and vent lines, sometimes ventilation is covered but other than a 15 minute flood test pretty much anything goes.

You need to look at building codes as an entry level - the least you can do as a developer or spec builder before selling off your last build.

Demand a better product - have the TCNA or TTMAC specifications (with the optional waterproofing measures added) specified on your next build. Instead of spending hours and hours looking for a couple of tips purchase the specification guide books and have it sent to your home or office.

This simple step will save most bathrooms from being built and tiled poorly.

My guess is that for less than $50.00 this little specification book could be the best investment you make in the design build process.

$45.00 CDN TTMAC http://www.ttmac.com/specifications.html

$30.00 USD TCNA http://www.tcnatile.com/handbook-all/494-2013-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation-version-2013-1.html

Portia+Rohm Realty Not sure why this test is a big deal. It's required for all shower pans just like the fill test for tubs in Northern California. Never even questioned it. We do mostly spec housing and we nearly always use an acrylic pan because it will never suffer from any of the waterproofing problems a tile or custom mortar bed can. If you can handle not having tile on the floor you can get a great looking pan in all sorts of sizes from Florestone or (high-end) Duravit. There's a gasket that seals the connection with the pipe. Just use a lot of silicone to seal the gasket and pipe and you will never see leaks. Two layers of asphalt paper stapled to the studs then HardiBacker over gives a pretty good tile substrate that can go up and tile same day (sorry John!). Just make sure the paper wraps over the tile flange on the pan at the bottom so any moisture that makes it through the tile and hardibacker (if ever) will drain down and out into the pan. Never had a call-back on an acrylic shower pan and yes, I used them in my own house.

John Whipple - By Any Design ltd. @ Humble Stone: I'm taken back that you where "Shocked". Are you not in the stone business?

1/4" per foot is a 2% grade. This is the minimum allowed in a custom shower pan. Code.

1/2" per foot is the max allowed slope. Don't you have a copy of the TCNA Guidelines? This should be listed in there.

@ Portia + Rohm: Many ready made shower pans leak. Once built you should be flood testing your connection with a test plug in your ready made shower pan builds. The connection of the plumbing line to the pan is the weak point. Especially for heavier people as the units often flex.

As for skipping additional waterproofing measure your OK to do this. It's just you are building to the minimum requirement. It's nice to see you use building paper behind your installs since many do not. I would used poly myself if I went that route but we prefer to build to a higher standard and apply waterproofing to the cement board itself.

The connection point from the walls to the pan would get some Kerdi Fix and some Kerdi band.

My way would cost you more be shower - it's no surprise a spec builder skips these steps. Most do here in Vancouver as well.

Most spec builders nail on their backer boards in these budget bathrooms.

Most spec builders skip the solid blocking on the cement board edges.

Most Spec builders skip the flood test of these showers.

I see it every month. It's allowed I give you that.

But this is the least you can do for your future client. As a client designing a bathroom I think you would want more.

JW

denise1234 An Ideabook would be great as we need to gut/remodel another bathroom!

Ana Holmes Loving this thread as we are embarking on a full gut reno of a row house built and never touched from 1948 in NYC.... Thank you John for educating us. We are planning on removing the tubs and having two showers in the two bathrooms. I am quite fond of the trench drain showers, as I would like the same floor tile to continue onto the shower (with the proper slopping). Can you elaborate on that, or even better illustrate on your ideabook, when you get to it? :-) I absolutely love this bathroom's shower
especially the shower. Is this something doable per code in the US? any tips? Thank you.