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deadwest added 6 photos to ideabook: Cabinet Pulls
   Comment   last Thursday
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12 Deadly Decorating Sins

Are your room designs suffering from a few old habits? It may be time to change your ways Full Story
     Comment   March 31, 2014
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No leopard in my house. Ever.
March 27, 2014 at 2:05pm     
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March 27, 2014 at 2:20pm     
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There are a couple of those habits that I am perfectly content not to break. Built in frig all the way and no problems with a wet bar-which, btw, does not have to come with miles of mirror.
March 27, 2014 at 3:47pm     
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These are not "deadly sins". Just personal dislikes and opinions. Decorators-- the same people who pushed granite, animal skins etc. etc. Do what you love. Don't be a slave to "trending" or "not trending".
There is beautiful granite and beautiful white kitchens, and beautiful (and practical) built in appliances and beautiful neutrals and beautiful suites of furniture (my husband's office is proof), there are dining rooms that need no other function because they are used daily as such. @society--you are not the world's worst decorator--that would probably be me the anti-decorator!--feel good about your home!
March 27, 2014 at 4:20pm     
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Interesting article, but I have to disagree with #7 (among others). I find beige soothing and tranquil. Yes, beige does make me smile. On the other hand, I find grey depressing. Personally, I think today's decorating suffers from "the plague of grey."
March 27, 2014 at 6:02pm     
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deadwest added 1 photo to ideabook: TV Wall
   Comment   March 26, 2014
deadwest commented on an ideabook

What to Know Before Refinishing Your Floors

Learn costs and other important details about renewing a hardwood floor — and the one mistake you should avoid Full Story
     Comment   March 20, 2014
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Laughing about the professional floor refinishers 'warning' about not refinishing your floors yourself. Several decades ago, when I was just 20, my boyfriend and I tore the rotting carpet out of our rather large apartment and refinished the floors ourselves. We spent about $200 on rental equipment, supplies, and a Sunset how-to book. It was a fair amount of work, but quite easy - even for two kids with zero remodeling experience. The floors turned out beautifully.
March 20, 2014 at 6:36am     
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You can spot repair the areas where the finish has worn off. If the wood has stain, I would find a good furniture touch up and repair man. That individual will know how to fix the color. If you know what the original finish was, I would use the same product over the repair, whether it is or isn't stained. That way if the color is off a little it should age with exposure to direct sunlight.
Without seeing the floor, obviously their are variables. For the most part, surface the bad spots with #120 paper unless scratches are really deep. If so try #100, then #80 if needed. Again if you start with #80 then go to #100, #120. The higher the grit sandpaper you use the better from the get go. That isn't always possible.
The rule for repairs is, less is better. Depending on the size of the repair and finish used, if you can purchase that product in an aerosol can , you're way ahead of the game. Sometimes you can get "witness lines" when repairing a polyurethane finish.
You can reduce solvent based polyurethanes with acetone. You will never see that on the can. Thinner coats with acetone will dry faster even if you have to apply more coats. When working with polyurethane or varnish use multiple thin coats, not a few heavy coats.
Where old meets new, you can sometimes get witness lines. This does not refer to the difference in color. If you have ever seen a clear coat lift off of wood or an automotive finish, that's what I'm talking about. Typically whiteish in color. If you sand smoothly where the two surfaces meet this shouldn't be an issue,
As far as putty's go, they make an epoxie based putty in many colors to match the background color of the wood. I purchase these at my Sherwin Williams commercial division store. You might try Woodcraft or a store of that type. Obviously these get applied first and surfaced at the same time as the floor.
The biggest issue after these spot repairs are done is, will the sheen of the floor match the sheen of the existing floor. The way to solve this problem is wax. Wax is often used to even the sheen and is a legitimate solution to your problem.
Worst case, wax and buff the entire floor with a commercial buffer. Make sure the new finish is completely cured. Follow the directions on the can religously. Have patience.
Furniture repair guys and gals often wax table top repairs to even the sheen so they don't have to refinish the whole table. Your floor is a big table. I'd wait till the weather in your area is above 65 degrees if you can. A little wax applied properly should give your floor a new appearance and the wax offers additional protection.
I hope this information is helpful. Thanks for asking.
March 27, 2014 at 7:41pm     
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Kelley's Wood Floors
I will have to agree that many points in this article are relative to most homeowners, and there are many good points and questions in rebuttal as well. We've been refinishing wood floors in the Central TX area for 69 years now and have run into so many scenarios that it's unreal!

Every floor is completely different from the next, so each floor requires some sort of adjustment in the sanding/finishing process. Knowing how to adjust your techniques and equipment to accommodate the needs of a particular floor takes many years of experience and trial and error. This is not to say that certain jobs cannot be done by a diy'er. Just know that there can be several factors involved that takes a pro to recognize before and during the process of sanding/finishing. These factors can include moisture/water/termite damage that isn't obvious at first, cupping (which takes more aggressive but careful sanding methods), ability to determine how much more sanding the floor can withstand, etc…

I've posted some before and after pics of a certain job that took a very delicate touch. This is the original quartersawn white oak floor in a 1916 home in Temple, TX. It had been covered with carpet for the last 30 years. Once we removed the carpet, we discovered a great deal of cupping, some of which had buckled the floor as much as 2-3 inches off the subfloor. We also discovered that the floor was only 5/16"-3/8" in thickness with a topside of about 1/8". Our first move was to moisture test the floor because it was cupped so much, and sure enough it had high moisture content (up to 20% in some areas). Next step was to figure out why. We went to the basement to discover that the entire underside of the subfloor, including the floor joists was dripping wet due to a/c condensation. This was only visible through a crawlspace. It took 2-3 weeks of running de-humidifiers once the a/c was repaired to completely dry out the crawlspace and reduce the moisture content of the oak enough to comfortably sand it. If you sand a floor that contains too much moisture, it will just cup again. This was a risk that could not be taken.

Although this floor is the exception, a diy homeowner may have possibly just starting sanding this floor without knowing the extent of the moisture content or the delicate nature in which sanding needed to occur as to not sand completely through the topside.

We absolutely could not use our drum sanders on this floor, so we used our Trio's throughout the entire sanding process. It is stained with Duraseal English Chesnut, and finished with two coats of satin water-based polyurethane.
on Monday at 8:21am   
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deadwest added 1 photo to ideabook: Living Room
   Comment   March 20, 2014
deadwest added 1 photo to ideabook: Family Room Bookcase
   Comment   March 18, 2014
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