Fred S


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ginnynichols
Thank you so much for all this info. If I understand you correctly I can have an adjustable gimbal trim in the H4 led halo series with a remodel can. But the adjustable gimbal for the remodel can is somehow different because of the driver? The spec sheet list the item number as ELSG406 adj. gimbal light engine. I'm looking at the spec sheet for the H4 LED gimbal 2nd Generation and it mentions the remodel housing but lists the light engine as ELG406 with no mention of ELSG406. Halo certainly is difficult to work with.
11 hours ago   
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Fred S
You should be able to use either. The "S" just means that the outside shape of the trim is square, instead of round. Everything else are the exact same components.
http://site.electricsuppliesonline.com/documents/halo-lighting/recessed-lighting/H457RICAT1E-spec.pdf
4 hours ago   
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fluckycharm
In Canada, it is not required. Our home inspector said that vents that are not connected to the outside are only a good source of lighting above your range. Same for those microwave vent combo. They don't do much. So unless it will bring the air outside, vents are a waste of money. For those reasons we don't have one above our gas range. We do have a window in the kitchen if we need to vent.
13 hours ago     
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Fred S
Why does the thought of an egress ladder make me think of a stewardess on a loud speaker and another one flapping her arms at every exit of the plane? I can just see you doing that every time someone 'checks in' :D
Yesterday at 1:17PM     
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Fred S
http://us.wernerco.com/en/view/Products/Climbing-Equipment/Fire-Escape-Ladders/ESC/ESC220

You might want to get them before framing, so they know the proper rough opening and where to put the wall studs in relation to the opening part of the window.
Yesterday at 1:31PM        Thanked by rredpenn
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Fred S
Ladders don't do any good in a fire if they are buried in a closet, especially when someone wakes up in the middle of the night choking on smoke and disoriented in an unfamiliar environment. Buying something just to ease your convenience isn't worth doing at all. If you really wanted to be serious about fire safety, you should have headed Mark's warning about not having the egress stairs exit through a garage/storage area that will most likely contain flammable/ explosive materials. Either get ladders that are readily and permanently accessible, or save your money..... My two cents on the soap box for today ;)
23 hours ago     
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Fred S
This steep narrow ledge can not be negotiated by most people to get from the bedroom window to the porch roof either. This is coming from a guy who used to walk on top of 2×4 walls with a 50' drop on one side and 12' on the other without a safety line. I still hang over the edge of much steeper roofs without a harness, but that little ledge can be much more dangerous.
23 hours ago     
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Fred S
In a fire situation, it is often the case that one of the worse things you can do is open the bedroom door. This is why an egress window is required in every bedroom and not just every other. So, planning to go from one bedroom to another to use a ladder can have a worse outcome than jumping and breaking a leg.
23 hours ago     
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Jean Stryker
I've always wondered if it was as nice to be in Fallingwater as to look at it...
1 hour ago     
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Mark Bischak, Architect
It is MUCH better in person.

I am back home, although my car is in the Detroit area in need of some repair.
19 minutes ago     
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Fred S
You need a permit for anything attached to the house, especially if you ever intend to heat it or include it as interior square footage. You will need a proper foundation that extends below the frost line if you heat it.
Yesterday at 12:24PM        Thanked by Jay Pzd
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Fred S
If you enclose it, you will also be required to add outlets around the walls just like any other interior space and a new switch at the new outside door as required by the NEC. If the walls are all glass, you will need floor outlets.
Yesterday at 12:44PM        Thanked by Jay Pzd
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Fred S
NC has 3 zones for insulation that is mandatory for heated spaces. The energy code mandates anywhere from an R13- R20 for walls, R30-38 for ceilings, and up to an R10 to 2' deep for slab foundations. In addition, the footings need to be anywhere from 4"-12" below finished grade. There is no way to give you any estimate of cost based on the wide range of variables. From one part of the US to another can be an easy 5× more expensive.
Yesterday at 8:50PM   
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crowley48
Yes, there is insulation. If you're doing screen only, it's up to you ( tho I'd still insulate the roof 'cause of the sun down here). If you do windows of any type, you'll certainly want insulation, especially if you're going to heat or cool that room.

If you're going to do this yourself, call the city or county to ask about permits and codes. If you get estimates from contractors, they should be able to tell you and then you can confirm with your zoning/permitting board.

Oh...if you are in an HOA, you might have to clear the project with them, depending on the rules.
13 hours ago   
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smith35
Forgot to mention I need roughly 20,400 - 24,000 lumens
on Sunday at 1:42PM   
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Fred S
Draw out your upper cabinet door swings on the plan so they don't hit the pendants when you open them. 300 lumens per linear foot of countertop is sufficient for recessed lights even without under cabinet lighting. 80 lumens per square foot of counter top is plenty for under cabinet lights even without recessed above, but would then be too much glare for good working conditions. 300 lumens/ linear ft. of counter for pendants may be not enough or too much depending on the type of shade on the fixture. 9680 lumens is plenty. Dimmers will be necessary.
Yesterday at 11:43AM   
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Curt D'Onofrio
Margo, i'm all well and good for NOW. But need some sure-a-gee on 08/22/2014. I wish not to disclose details, but wish me luck...Thx .I have anxiety issues prior to any sure ta gee so please wish me well. You, chook, and Fred s i know are my friends.
on Sunday at 8:46PM     
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Fred S
The "Adjacency" of the word "PRO" to somebody's name is often a "Sham". It seams that some people are just trying to "Shoffice" some skills that they don't really posses. Therefore, I believe Houzz has made "PRO" the most amusing of all words except for those that get made up on the "Garottage" thread ;)
on Sunday at 2:38PM     
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rredpenn
aww Fred, you're the best!


And you're spot-on hilarious, too! :)
on Sunday at 2:49PM     
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Fred S
These are quotes from various hardwood floor manufacturers. Subfloors usually have too much deflection to run the flooring parallel to the joists.

"Building codes establish requirements for structural support components of flooring systems which may not provide adequate rigidity and support for proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor. Whenever possible, install flooring perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum stability."

"When installing parallel to the floor joists it may be necessary to stiffen the subfloor system by installing an additional minimum of 3/8″(9.5mm) approved underlayment."

”(subfloor)-19” Joist Spacing: Use an APA approved 1-1/4” minimum thickness, exterior grade plywood, or 1-1/4” minimum thickness, OSB, following manufacturer guidelines, including expansion spacing between the sheets. The joist manufacturer's recommended span must not be exceeded.
Joist spacing in excess of 19” is not recommended for solid hardwood installations unless additional layers of directionally opposed sub flooring are installed with sufficient thickness to eliminate sub floor deflection."
last Saturday at 6:12PM     
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Fred S
This might help, but you should always follow the requirements of the manufacturer so that you have a warranty when you are done.

http://www.hoskinghardwood.com/Department/Hardwood-Floors/All-About-Subfloors--installing-flooring-over-various-sub-floors.aspx?dId=7&pageId=2
last Saturday at 6:41PM     
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Fred S
It isn't exactly required to go perpendicular, but you need a much thicker subfloor than normal with a deflection rating of less than L/640 according to some. Some still require a very low deflection even if going perpendicular. These thicker subfloors and dense hardwood floors could most likely require more joists to be added due to the added dead load. Nailing etc. should all be a minimum of what the manufacturer requires. It is usually more than every joist. Here is an example;
http://www.hardwoodamerica.com/index.php?id=56
The floor joists and subfloor should be checked with some quick calculations by an engineer or other qualified person before proceeding.
last Saturday at 7:31PM     
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Fred S
For reference, many floors with carpet were only designed with a deflection of Length/ 360.
last Saturday at 7:54PM     
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Fred S
Knowing the brands and model of the windows would help.
The sill replaces the extension jamb.
Or extend the jamb to make a sill or stool.
last Saturday at 12:58PM     
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Fred S
I assume you are wanting to go from the second picture to the first at the sill?
last Saturday at 2:54PM   
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kellerj
I thought sills looked nicer and thought they were standard in most homes. That's the only reason for wanting them. I still want to trim my windows but planned on using a plain board to trim my windows (no details). I was afraid that not having sills would make it look bland. The interior will have modern details to it.
on Sunday at 12:54PM   
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River Valley Cabinet Works
Not all windows need an extension jamb. If you are using a double-hung window where the jamb is the same as the wall thinkness, a sill or stool looks ridiculously small if kept in proper proportion or the overhang looks ridiculous if you have a stool made wide enough to put something on it. If you are using 2 x 6 walls, you should have at least a 2" jamb extension.
on Sunday at 1:28PM     
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Fred S
It depends on the fixture. Too tight will crack the glass. Some fixtures have rubber bushings, metal ferrels, or shoulder screws with a positive stop.
last Saturday at 3:23AM     
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summilux
Both wife and I have asthma, allergies and 2 indoor cats. So that's the practical reason for wood. Aesthetically, there's something about wood and how it plays with light.
on Sunday at 8:40AM     
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elpbrady
Definitely wood. I hate to clean carpet. I would use painted risers though, same as your trim, for an updated look.
on Sunday at 9:02AM   
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MJ Designs
Great question, Sonya N! I DO think there are design elements that will stand the test of time. A simple cabinet door front like the Shaker Style, butcher block and the combination of black and white.... Been around forever and still looks great today!
last Saturday at 7:19AM      Thanked by Sonya N
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bungalowmo
I did my bath in a black hex floor & white subway tile wall. Chrome fixtures.

This room can change to any color with paint & linens.

@Thos Baker....I LOVE that cute yellow & green bath! It's adorable, but I can guess, not for everyone! I have that same exact tub in white!
10 hours ago   
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adivra
Mine are hardwired. Easy to get to the dimmer switch. My under cab flourescents weren't hardwired and it was a pain to switch them on. Small issue but nevertheless I like hardwired.
last Wednesday at 5:31PM     
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bungalowmo
Hardwired. I like everything on dimmers when I can.

No LED's for me. Not my cuppa....
last Wednesday at 6:22PM   
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Cancork Floor Inc.
This can be an easy fix (you run extra cable stapled to the top of the baseboards around to where you need it) or it can be a hard fix that requires a little bit of drilling and patching/painting (have a new whole drilled into the wall where you want it and run another line to that space from the outside where the cable enters the building). Either way this can be fixed in 1-2 hours.
last Friday at 2:10PM     
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Fred S
Unless your floors and walls are concrete and brick.
last Friday at 4:09PM   
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last Friday at 6:54AM        Thanked by suehodapp
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chookchook2
Fred, give the OP a break and don't tell the DPs.
last Friday at 7:35AM        Thanked by suehodapp
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Fred S
An HVAC system should be designed so that convection heats the entire room, not the blowing air. Therefore, I have always gone by what looks best. Although, I have seen a few in older homes that are too close to the ceiling and make the ceiling dirty too quickly if pointed up. Probably a good sign that the ducts should be cleaned.
last Friday at 6:42AM   
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Fred S
Usually, the ones that only point one direction are return air. The supply air grills normally are designed to spread out the airflow.
last Friday at 6:45AM   
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Fred S
CAREFUL! that could poke somebody's eye out!
last Friday at 5:37AM     
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Ann
They are very, very comfy BLee! Hubby said, "Are you sure you want to get old people furniture?" (keep in mind we are grandparents, lol). Anyway, we both liked a modern teak and mesh set but we sat in both and immediately decided on "old people furniture". I've spent hours out there in the last few days:)
5 hours ago     
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marjie1059
Ann, at some point you don't care if the furniture, or shoes, or car, or whatever, screams "old people"...you just want a comfy bottom, or feet, or back, or whatever. Hooray for old people!
3 hours ago     
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Fred S
"We made the steps safer by adding a 4th step at the bottom and evening out the rise of all the steps."
Your pictures only show half the story, just like the inspector only told you half the story. By showing the whole picture, a real solution can be found. The standard code;
R311.7.8 Handrails.
Handrails shall be provided on at least one side of each continuous run of treads or flight with four or more risers.
R311.7.8.2 Continuity.
Handrails for stairways shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals.

Where is the fourth step and how far out does it end?

Here is a hint about what to do, and what should have been done to begin with to avoid railings.
R311.7.6 Landings for stairways.
There shall be a floor or landing at the top and bottom of each stairway. The minimum width perpendicular to the direction of travel shall be no less than the width of the flight served. Where the stairway has a straight run, the minimum depth in the direction of travel shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm).

Obviously, these codes don't read exactly like yours do if they require a rail on both sides, but no guardrail on the rest of the porch. If I knew the city you are in, I could check for code differences and give you some real suggestions on possibly avoiding the rail. I would also need riser heights and height from porch floor to dirt.
last Thursday at 10:30PM     
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Fred S
I will give this another shot without further information because it is probably one of these two things, or both.
The only code that would require a rail on both sides, and mentions 3 or fewer risers, is the California BUILDING Code, not the California RESIDENTIAL Code......sounds like a new inspector.....go over his head.
Since I can't see the entire stairs, and the use of the number of STEPS in your description instead of risers could be misleading, I will point out a backup plan. Four steps is usually the same as 5 risers because the last step is actually a floor or landing, so if this is the case, you have two too many steps.....but, it looks like you actually have 3 steps and 4 risers. If you do have one too many steps, just turn the bottom step into a landing by making it at least 36" deep. Then, NO handrails will be required. You get to keep the look you want, and it should cost way less than your quotes on the railing.

California Residential Code
1.1.3
Shall apply throughout the state of California

1.1.7.3.1
Detached one- and two-family dwellings and townhouses shall not be required to comply with the more restrictive requirements contained in Title 24, Part 2, the California Building Code.

1.8.6.2
Local modifications to the code must show that such modifications are reasonably necessary due to local climatic, geological, or topographical conditions, and be approved by the state.


The above codes are summarized from here;
http://www.ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/free_resources/2013California/13Residential/PDFs/Chapter%201%20-%20Scope%20and%20Application.pdf

R311.7.8 Handrails.
Handrails shall be provided on at least one side of each continuous run of treads or flight with four or more risers.
R311.7.8.1 Height.
Handrail height, measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches (864 mm) and not more than 38 inches (965 mm).

FLIGHT. A continuous run of rectangular treads or winders or combination thereof from one landing to another.

R311.7.8.2 Continuity.
Handrails for stairways shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals.

R311.7.6 Landings for stairways.
.... The minimum width perpendicular to the direction of travel shall be no less than the width of the flight served.... Where the stairway has a straight run, the minimum depth in the direction of travel shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm).

http://www.ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/free_resources/2013California/13Residential/PDFs/Chapter%203%20-%20Building%20Planning.pdf


R312.1 Guards.
Guards shall be provided in accordance with Sections R312.1.1 through R312.1.4.

R312.1.1 Where required.
Guards shall be located along open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, ramps and landings, that are located more than 30 inches (762 mm) measured vertically to the floor or grade below at any point within 36 inches (914 mm) horizontally to the edge of the open side......
last Friday at 4:34AM        Thanked by tammydavies
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Fred S
And, by the looks of the picture, if you do need a railing without changing the bottom step into a landing, the railing would have to extend out into the yard to the end of the last step. It would not just be above the brick like illustrated above by grover.
last Friday at 4:43AM   
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tammydavies
P.S. It's Campbell, CA 95008
on Sunday at 11:18AM   
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Scott Design, Inc.
Consider writing to your state building inspector. Provide the background and photos. Ask for his interpretation and suggestions. Often times, a municipality will accept the decision knowing they are off the hook for code compliance responsibility. Ask about the railings and the garage steps. Keep in mind that he won't care about what was, only what is.
on Sunday at 11:46AM     
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hayleydaniels
sajeev53, the problem with waiting to put the handrails back up until you absolutely need them [I'm assuming you mean when you're old] is that you never know when you might slip and fall down the stairs. That can happen at any age. It's like waiting to wear your seatbelt or bike helmut until you plan on being in an accident. By them it's too late.
last Thursday at 8:30PM     
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Fred S
Just to clarify. From the original post. "The range requires 6" clearance on each side."
This (6" in this case) is the area in which the upper cabinets and light rails etc. must be 18" above the counter AND protrude from the wall no more than 13" by code. There is no requirements for the remainder of the cabinets outside of this zone, UNLESS you want the bottom of the cabinets to all be the same height.
Kathryn posted the same thing while I wasn't looking.
I'm sure that Deborah knows this and it just came out wrong.
last Thursday at 1:16PM        Thanked by problemsinthekitchen
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Fred S
But, that is why I see so many bad designs on here. The restrictions can be a bit vague and confusing.
Unless the entire corbel is outside the 6" zone, it can't stick out more than 13" from the wall, any more than any other cabinet unless it is made from noncombustible materials.
I bring this up again because this picture was posted as an example of how to fix the problem. It would NOT meet code if the corbels are combustible and in the 6" zone.
last Thursday at 8:04PM     
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Brandi Nash Hicks
Well it is apparent SSTAR that this kitchen has just been just remodeled and they are trying to find a solution...not a new problem to deal with. I think it is beautiful and with a little tweeking will be their dream kitchen
last Friday at 5:01AM     
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weatherwife
I think once you remove the corbels and replace them with ones that do not touch the counter top, (which will fix the clearance issue) you will not be able to tell at all that the hood is slightly off center. The corbels are what is making it obvious to you because they are situated directly beside the range and make the space on either side of them obvious. I think your kitchen is beautiful. I'm so sorry that you are not enjoying it yet. Hang in there.,, this problem will be remedied!
last Friday at 5:16AM   
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PRO
Deborah Butler, Brickwood Builders
You may want to check your Thermador specs. We don't see a lot of Thermador in our area, but generally the cabinets on either side of the hood can only be a max of 13" deep for most pro type appliances.
last Wednesday at 11:45AM        Thanked by leenet13
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leenet13
Hi Deborah, Thank you for hanging in there...yes, now I see the range drawing and the 13" Max depth of overhead cabinets...so if I built that "false wall" and bring the back wall out 18", the relative depth of the cabinets will be only 12" and therefor in compliance with the installation requirements. Does that sound correct to you.
Thank you both designers for your input...it made it so much clearer for me.
last Wednesday at 3:42PM     
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dela115
I was told I need to put them in before I insulate my cathedral ceiling. Is that so?
last Wednesday at 9:15AM   
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Fred S
It depends on the type of construction. Need pictures.
last Wednesday at 9:25AM   
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Fred S
This is why range hoods ducted to the outside are often not even allowed in condos and apartment buildings.
August 12, 2014 at 4:20PM   
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kmkane
Thanks Fred. Love to learn these things. Still, nothing in these codes say anything about a "blower." But I may be getting there! Am I correct in thinking the blower is the motor, or am I still an idiot?
August 12, 2014 at 10:05PM   
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Fred S
Yes!
I mean..... the blower IS the motor WITH the fan (all but picture #3 I posted under blower motors). The "hood" is just the outside shell (or liner, if the shell is decorative wood) that is directly over the stove and directs air into the duct. There is nothing in the codes I provided links to because it can go practically anywhere. There are other codes that apply to every appliance. The motor must be accessible, and the installation instructions must be followed. The fan must be tested by an independent laboratory recognized by the govt. to insure it complies with certain ANSI and UL standards.
last Tuesday at 10:29PM   
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Sarah
We keep chocolates in various candy dishes around the house, mostly for company. Funny thing is that NONE of our friends keep candy out at their own houses, but they always take a piece when they visit us. I'm certainly not complaining--I don't have a sweet tooth and it makes me happy that they enjoy a little treat at our house.
Yesterday at 9:38PM     
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shars55
Katieselp....if a little sugar is poison, it didn't affect any of my grandparents or mom in law. All of them ate a bit of chocolate every day, and they lived Into their 80's.
23 hours ago     
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chookchook2
Use the fork, Luke.
August 12, 2014 at 5:49PM     
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reyn7767
pcmom1, I hope you realize that Goodwill is a For Profit Corporation. He has the best business plan, get free stuff and sell it....The CEO takes home $3,000,000.00+ a year, all from people like you!
on Sunday at 6:38AM   
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pcmom1
I use the term "Good will", actually stuff went to our local Discovery Shop that is part of local, not for profit hospital.
on Sunday at 5:08PM     
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August 12, 2014 at 12:30PM   
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PRO
flair lighting
still doesnt negate the fact that you may not have a way to get wiring to it, so please check into that first before getting your heart set on anything.
August 12, 2014 at 1:48PM   
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