If these are all projects you plan to complete eventually, remember there is an economy of scale to having all the work done at once. If you choose one or two projects a year, the overall cost for everything will be higher in the long run.
Thank you all for your wisdom.
To Smit...the wood floors would be in the master bedroom, not bath.
I think I knew the answer, but having a hard time choosing.
There are supports that are virtually invisible, but some form of support is going to be visible unless your wall is relatively narrow and the glass is fit into slots.
This is a little tricky but I've actually done it. You need laminated or tempered glass so you have enough tensile strength to support the shelf. Take a U channel that is the same dimension as your glass and router a notch into the vertical 2x4s. Set the U channel into the notch and secure it, we used counter sunk screws in an extruded aluminum channel. Paint the channel flat black so you don't see any reflection from the metal. Set the glass with bead of silicone in at the back with enough on it so the silicon squeezes out. Drywall around and you are done. The big question is always how big a channel in relation to the projection. I would say 1/3rd of the projection is definitely adequate, we used a 2" deep channel for an 8" piece of glass so the projection was 6" with 2" in the channel.
Thank you so very much. As I said above, I have a lot of work to do. But I'm starting to see how this can be done. I really, really appreciate your taking the time to write and share such wonderful ideas. I didn't know anything about all of this.
it's especially helpful to have you explain those steps to me. Again, thank youAnne
Are you having an architect design the home? He or she may have ideas for incorporating the two styles.
There is a product called "haze be gone" that will take off surplus grout from tile surfaces.
So here's maybe an unconventional idea, leave the openings the way they are, put the hang up bar in line with the big beam so you don't see it from the outside and set up 1-2 strips of LED lights behind the upper beam on a dimmer. Could look kinda cool with lights in behind it.
a light fixture is a very good idea, and will be very useful too. Thanks.
Absolutely, in fact I have done many contemporary kitchens with shaker doors. One thing to consider, use shaker style doors but get the rails in a custom 3" or 4" width. This decreases the size of the center panel and gives it a more modern feel.
Agree with Queen Bee, only bump out the cabinet with a recessed sink, a farm sink is its own statement.
Glad you thought about the aisle clearances in your kitchen. If you are using a 27" deep cabinet with decorative legs, I think it should be fine and will create a nice focal point.
A.B.C. Architect Before Contractor. Or... you end up with things like this. Reject the door. Make the GC put in correct door height. Top of transom should line up. If door bottom at floor level, stuck with losing transom. Expect GC to charge you "restocking" fee, demo and for new door and installation. Refuse all of those charges. If.... if you had an architect, the architect would not have had the problem in the first place or would reject GC's request for payment.
Please. Architects love helping people - its just heart breaking to have to "fix" things after an owner gets their alphabet out of order.
Best of luck.
Agree with H.A., this is a building flaw and should be fixed prior to taking possession. Standard door height is 80". My guess is that either the floor height was set wrong or the lintels were set too low over both the windows and doors forcing the builder to buy a custom height door. The obvious fix is to remove it and order a custom height door without a transom. Since it will be custom and an additional expense to the builder, it would be prudent to make sure that the door is built by a reputable company that can account for the additional weight of the taller door on the rollers.
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