Dang, didn't think that floor would cause so many problems! That flooring is going to be throughout the entire first floor of our house. Our kitchen is going to be white cabinets with black quartz. The bathroom is already done as well.
@ Jeanne & Vassar... I'm not good with making colors work like that, so if it's possible i'm hoping someone here can throw out some ideas!
@Snaggy... thought about that, but i'd hate to think about sanding a beautiful table like this down and putting a different color over. And i can only image such tedious work would come with a hefty price tag. Also...i think the Amish use some sort of fish oil in their natural stains, so i'm not sure what getting something like that out would be like.
She wants me to build a table to go along one of the walls. I think the ones she was looking at for reference were ~5' long, 3' tall and 18" deep. Other than that, i think she's trying to minimize the amount of furniture that's in there.
I'm not opposed to a rug, i'll have to get her thoughts. I don't like the designs/style of the ones shown above though.
This is going to be our only dining room going forward, so it'll get used on a regular basis.
Agree with above suggestions. I would try to solve the problem rather than Craig’s listing your furniture. I’ve found that no matter how nice the furniture is you get very little for it....
If all else fails gel stain might work.
The doors, whether i do them or I get them from Barker will be poplar frames with MDF panels (shaker style). So i was going to use a poplar veneer plywood with edge banding for the most durability.
I've already used a local shop to do the CV on some doors and i'm well aware of their pricing and quality.
@Thor...Be afraid of what?
@Matt: The "Be Afraid" was directed to the posts which insist that a person must hire a kitchen designer, and must spend at least $100,000 on a simple kitchen refresh etc. etc.
No one is suggesting you spend 100k or anything near that. I 've done highly customized IKEA kitchens in the 12-16 k range. You just have to be aware of the real world cost when you are comparing things. You ask a question here people are going to weigh in with their option. Some of those are based on professional experience some of us build kitchens everyday and some once had a kitchen done by someone in their own house and believed they are now experts. You take your pick.
I've never been able to call the local store, it always boots me to a recorded message.
The other question i have about them is their delivery cost. When i load the 200+ items into my cart and quote shipping to my zip, it comes up at $99 only....is that right for "large item delivery" ? If that's accurate, i'm going that route all day long!!!
Have you been to the store at all? If you must go, try to go during the weekday. Returns on weekends are crazy, during the week, it's easy, no crowds. And yes, they have a one price delivery. In my area (close to the store) it's $49.00. We had 151 pieces.
Yes, they will take back anything inmpackages properly labeled. Yes they will take back some assembled pieces. Not 20 assembled cabinets. At least not without putting you on the No Return list. Yes, that is a real thing. Companies figure that someone that dissatisfied shouldn’t be shopping there to begin with.
@ Mary Curtis... Don't mean to crash this thread. Do you have a dimensional layout of your kitchen? Your layout is almost identical to what we are planning to do. So i would be curious to know your dimensions and what you think about working in that space with an island that size.
@Mary Curtis... How much space do you have between your island and the cabinets around it...4'? Also, what was the depth of your island? I recall seeing the 10', but not the depth.
Hi Mary! Maybe something like one of our below projects? We'd love to help you here at Shakuff.
@Matt Island is 42 inches wide. About 42 inches between island and not working side of kitchen where we walk through and 36 on side between island and sink and island and stove. Seems to be plenty of room on all sides for us. Kept debating on making the island this big, but really like it. Even though it's a big island it somehow makes the room seem larger and more open like the newer house styles. Ours is about 20 years old.
Thank you smileythecat! It gets exhausting (no pun intended) when people consistently down talk the downdrafts. I wish more downdraft owners with positive things would speak out. We get it, hoods are far more efficient. But sometimes from either layout/construction of a home or the user experience of working on the island drives the need/desire for a downdraft. The alternative is nothing at all, and i found out the hard way what happens when you mention that on this board. So embrace it when people say they want a downdraft and help them make it happen, don't make them feel bad for wanting that.
@Flo... Was the telescoping downdraft Miele brand as well? Just curious so i can look up thier offerings to see what drives a deeper than standard depth cabinet.
Nevermind i found info on the Miele units. They are almost twice as thick as say the Whirlpool brand like i bought. So i could see that forcing a deeper than 24" cabinet.
A Best Cattura is going to give you the best shot.
Induction requires less capacity because you aren't also dealing with waste heat like you'll have with gas. Bosch 800 or Benchmark slide-ins would be a choice. 17 levels of power control.
I can't quite figure out, why this would be good on an island?? When the vent is up, it totally blocks views to the folks at the counter?? Maybe I'm missing something, or just totally against islands with ranges. This particular model/brand looks amazing and probably functions quite well if it isn't too noisy. What are the decibel ranges??
Happy to see someone else use a corner angle cabinet in a current remodel. I got chastised about that my in my layout when soliciting feedback because it's so "outdated".
Curious, what is your ceiling height?
I love how even though you went from light cabinets to dark the kitchen is now much brighter and an over all much happier space! A great visual for those who think a bright kitchen can only be achieved by painting cabinets white. Good lighting and lighter counters achieve a brighter look better than just painting cabinets lighter. Nice work!
I usually buy metal covers and paint them.
This is just some of the colors - go to their websites.
I think most people go with the MDF. Typically your hardware get's installed on the frame and not the center panel. If your drawer front is big enough to get a panel, you will have plenty of structure close by in the frame if you wanted to mount your hardware on the MDF and not worry about pulling the panel over time.
I wouldn't worry about it for drawer fronts. If you were putting a knob in the middle of a 2ft square door and had the drawer loaded with cast iron pans, over time you might see a warp in the MDF. If you worried about the knob pulling out for some reason, just use a washer along with the screw on the inside of the drawer to distribute those forces more.
Thank you all! It turned out to be less than a $300 dollar difference between the two so I was stressing about nothing. But it's good to know MDF might be a better option anyway.
I quite doubt that any Shaker carpenter would have touched the stuff, but yes it's fine for painted or veneered panels that you expect will be thrown away in a decade or three.
I would guess those stools are 16" wide by 12" deep and the corner post are probably 4"x6". So i would guesstimate 34" wide and 30" deep.
Using the stool dimensions was a good strategy. I googled a bunch and the ones that look like that are 16.5x16.5 so I think it must be 30x36
@GreenDesigns... Our cooktop is 30" (actual = 30.75" wide & 21.5" deep). Based on all the dimensions for the downdraft unit, I don't see why a 24" deep IKEA cabinet would not be sufficient. Can't the prep area act as my secondary emergency landing?
@catlady999... I'm not trying to use houzz to win an argument. She doesn't know exactly what she wants, so i'm trying to provide as many options as possible. Fortunately, since these are IKEA cabinets we could pretty easily experiment with current or my question #1 idea pretty easily. I was trying to move the trash under the stove so that when she is standing at her prep area to the right of the stove she could have the trash drawer open at the same time to put stuff in. This is how she currently operates, so i'm trying to duplicate that. If i put the trash in the 18" cabinet, then she has to stop, backup and open the cabinet each time. Pots and pans could go in either cabinet to the sides of the cooktop base cabinet.
@damiarain... 1.There would be trash and recycle in the cooktop cabinet. I want to use the 10 gallon Variera bins. These have a 16" wide by 10" deep opening. Since i expect to loose around 12" of depth to my drawer due to the downdraft, i figured this was better use of the 12" or less of drawer space. The pots and pans would then go into the 18" cabinet to the right or in either cabinet if i made both of them 15" wide. 2. My wife and I are the only 2 that occasionally sit at the island in our current kitchen. Once in a blue moon our 12yr old son will grace us with his presence. So for that he would sit at the end. 3. I've tried to get feedback on the layout but the thread always dies out. But, here is the current layout again if anyone wants to provide feedback at this point.
I would not put trash under the cooktop. Imagine you or your wife is cooking and someone needs to access the trash. Better to place it where it can be accessed without interrupting an activity yet still convenient for prep work.
I find it humorous the "Pros" here making claims that a 42" square at the end of your island isn't large enough for seating. Insert eyeroll.
A cabinet interior is 22 1/2“-23” That’s just enough room to have it house a 22” deep cooktop. There is no room for the pop up without an extra deep cabinet. That isn’t an option with IKEA. The pop up will have to go in the cabinet behind the cooktop. That also renders it less effective, and it was pathetic to begin with.
Your prep space will be next to your sink with this design, with the back turned to the island. Hopefully, your prep and cleanup have logical separation around your sink. Otherwise these mixed up zones with no good prep space will be a dysfunctional mistake.
You should post your entire design. There are too many issues to be corrected just in this one snippet.
Yes, we went months before we installed the drawer fronts.
You didn't say whether this is DIY, but I strongly disagree with GreenDesigns about it not being a bargain. Here's my thread where I compare pricing for custom doors: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5182903/barker-doors-vs-semihandmade-vs-scherrs-in-ikea-kitchen-results#23726156
Having said that, IKEA didn't have the white shaker door when I did mine, and it's definitely easier to just work with what they have.
See if there is a dealer near you.
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