Deal with the lean by providing support rather than trying to even the crown up with pruning. Is it on a dwarfing rootstock? Tree may then require permanent support.

bboy, thanks.

It's a semi-dwarf red delicious (Malus Sylv).

Do you mean place a stake in the ground and tie to the stake to support the tree on the side with fewer branches?

Lauriedutch:

Not just yes, but hell yes. I prune apple trees in June, July, August, December -- anytime I am out in the orchard with the pruner. Semi-dwarf rootstocks are normally vigorous, and have no difficulty recovering. Summer pruning encourages fruiting spur development while slowing vegetative vigor, which is exactly what you want.

First balance the growth by completely removing the low branches and any others on the North that are out of whack with the South side. Then drive a stake into the ground about 4 feet from the base and set up a notched 2x4 to correct the lean, pushing the tree slightly over center.

In about 18 months to 2 years your tree will have grown in additional roots and you can remove the wood props.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

We will do that. Much appreciated, thanks!

Moreover, I'm glad to bump into you as I'm trying your fruit bagging (with double ziplock baggies) for the first time on our apple tress and pear trees. Despite the spring freeze, all the trees have some fruit.

A few fruits were attacked by plum curculio while I was away last week, but I think I've caught (bagged) all the others on time.

LaurieDutch in Colorado

LaurieDutch:

I think you will be happy with the results of your apple bagging. Don't fail to prepare the bags before installation by cutting off a nice wide piece of each lower corner, then, after opening the bag, the plastic strip above the zipper. Makes installation easier.

Begin closing the zipper around the apple at the ends, simultaneously applying a slight pulling tension to keep the zipper lined up. Then close that zipper up tight against the stem on both sides. I have read some advice on the net to leave the bag "loose" around the stem. That is very bad advice, and will lead to the bag blowing off and the entry of earwigs through the top. Never trust an earwig. If there are any small leaves or stems from your previous thinning in the path of the zipper, pull them off prior to bag installation. Check the seal for the absence of "snaps" at least once before moving on to the next bag.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Don:

I have a helpful diagram of where to cut a baggy; it was posted in the thread where I first read about your technique last year. I also printed the messages in a few threads last year and have been looking forward to trying the technique.

We get very strong winds here sometimes, so I have zipped the baggies on well, checking for snaps at least 3 times. I did knock off one pear due to lack of experience (tightened the bag too close to the pear and snapped the stem) so am careful not to do that again.

I thought I read somewhere that earwigs don't harm fruit. Is this incorrect? I spotted an earwig climbing outside one of the baggies but didn't remove the earwig.

Finally, one of the apple trees had some crowded clumps of small dark insects on the underside of some leaves. Any idea what these are? We cut off all the affected leaves. Do I need to watch for more? Thanks!

The earwigs are the only problem I've had with bagging. They do harm the fruit and cause it not to develop properly. I haven't been able to stop them from getting in, but it takes a while before they do any harm so I pulled off the bags with earwigs in and I'm going to have to replace them.

Earwigs will use the apple's stem depression as a communal toilet bowl. Eventually filling it with a large, compacted mass of bug crap. Unappetizing to say the least, and encourages rot.