CanÂt help with positive ID on the weeds but it looks like they are mostly common broadleaf weeds. My lawn looked like that after a Fall renovation a few years ago. Trimec should take care of all of them. Spot treat them Do not drench your new grass with weed killer. Keep your new lawn well fertilized. I have heard that for CGM, to be effective, needs multiple applications of up to 40 lbs per 1000 sq ft. and that its effectiveness increases over time (years) BTW, those are the same cultivars I used at BestlawnÂs suggestion in 2005. By June 15, you will have the most beautiful lawn youÂve ever seen. Bill Hill

If I were you, I'd put down a crabgrass preventer with Dimension as the active ingredient. It is pre-emergent and has some post-emergent effectiveness against crabgrass. Bill Hill

This will fix your lawn:

1.- Fertilizer (29-3-4 Scotts or Lesco synthetic for first year)
2.- Barricade of similar (halts ok)
3.- 2,4 D (weed-b-gone or Bayer)
4.- Check your soil PH and make sure it's between 6 and 7. (6.5 is ideal for KBG)

Forget "spot and spray" you have way too many weeds.

If you follow my instructions, you too, will have a dark green lawn with virtually no weeds.

Wait at least after your first mowing before you apply 2,4 D. It's not going to hurt the grass if you apply it before, it's just going to delay its grow a little bit. So do it after the lawn has had a dose of nitrogen and has been cut once. Keep the blade very sharp and at the hight of 2 inches, then as the temperatures get hotter, increase the hight to about 3 inches or so. The relativily shorter mowing hight will encourage lateral growth so the lawn can fill in any spots you may have.

Bill Hill is right. I freaked-out about the weeds last spring but the grass WILL wake-up and dominate! Here is some pictures from my renovation in 2006. This is America, Nu Destiny, Midnight II and Blue Velvet:

May 1, 2007: Lots of weeds!
{{gwi:90456}}

June 15, 2007: Getting better, very dry June though.
{{gwi:90457}}

August 31, 2007: Finally rained and lawn took off!
{{gwi:90458}}

May 6, 2008 (Today):
{{gwi:90459}}

I selected all the varieties for their summer performance in our area. And while the grass does look OK in Spring, summer is when it really does best. It is much darker than it looks in the pictures.

Billhill, Thanks for showing me some hope of getting through this mess.
For Trimec, I read you need to have the lawn mowed at least 3 times before you apply it. I did mow couple of times in fall (did not have grass that tall in all areas though). So far this year I have not mowed, will be doing one mowing by weekend. So do you see problem applying Trimec after that? Also there are different options for buying Trimec - Super, Classic, Plus. Can anyone suggest which one I should go with?
I did not know Dimension have some post emergent effectiveness. When all these broadleaf weeds started popping all over my lawn, even I wondered whether I should put some Pre emergent for crabgrass. But then I read if lilac has already started to bloom then its probably too late to put any pre-m for crabgrass and I am seeing lilac blooming in my area. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

AuteckÂs instructions are good. IÂm not up on all the brands of weed killers. Weed-be-gone used following the instructions should work good for you. I think pre-emergent with Dimension (dithiopyr) is the best. The label clearly states that itÂs effective on young crabgrass sprouts. ItÂs available as a generic brand in the big box stores. Look for dithiopyr as the active ingredient. Turf Junkie, Beautiful lawn and gardens. Congrats on your successful renovation. Bill Hill

If you haven't cut yet I'd be hesitant to put down Halts or Dimension, it could stunt your growth (unless you got in a few good cuts last year).

Thanks Bill!

vkolte, it's not too late for dimension. You may have missed some of the earliest germinating plants, but cg will continue to germinate well into the summer, so there is still time to stop those plants.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Turf_junkie, its really good looking lawn.

Few more questions -
Where can I buy barricade? Also if I need to get dimenison what percentage of dimension I should go with?

Thanks.

vkolte,

Have you fertilized yet this spring? KBG is a nitrogen hog - especially in the first year. I think you will notice a big transformation with good vertical growth and green up once you get some fertilizer down. With that top growth and then some mowing, you will see some good tillering which will begin to choke out some of the weeds. I have seen a big difference from mid-March to now with the KBG (Mag 3) really taking over.

Billhill - great shots. lawn looks great.

Check Dimensions's label first. I really don't remember exactly, but I think it lasts 6 months. (Someone please correct) If I'm right, I'd rather you didn't use it and apply Halts instead. The reason is that I'd prefer you were able to overseed again in fall. You don't have to. I just think you should. Don't have to make another production of it, just overseed and use the same varieties.

Sorry, can't help with identification but as was mentioned, Weed-b-Gon or Bayer Advanced All In One takes care of most of these broadleaf weeds. Both have a product that is labeled for the broadleaf weeds and crabgrass.

Keep your pics up at Picasa, please. I want to email them someone to ask a couple questions.

To answer "Have you fertilized yet this spring?" question.

I did not explain this in my original post; but I was trying to go the organic route. So since last fall I have been using Alfalfa, SBM and applying compost tea etc. This season I have applied two application of CGM at 10 lb/1k. First one when forsythia just started to bloom and second one after 9-10 days when forsythia was in full bloom. Based on what I have read, CGM does work as a fertilizer, it just takes 3 weeks to go into effect. The results also depend on how good soil biology you have got. Since I just started following organic practices last year, its very much possible I don't have good balance in the soil yet.
I guess after going through all this, I have kind of concluded that for a new lawn, at least for first year you should take help of chemicals and once you get thick turf established then you gradually move into organics. I think "gradually" is the key. If you have been following organic practices since long time, then its different story. I hope this is not going start some big debate..

Having said that based on Auteck's suggestion I am going to give it a quick dose of nitrogen. I am hoping that boost will give some more strength to grass to help win the battle with weeds.

Bestlawn, yes I do want to overseed this fall. In fact I have enough leftover from last year to do this overseeding. While googling, on Dowagro website I read 'one application of Dimension will give 120 days of control'. On another website someone had posted a label from a bag and it said you can do overseeding after 8 weeks. So It seems ok to put Dimension. Worst case I will have to do overseeding in Sept instead of Aug. I will have to ask Lesco guy when I go to buy it. Anyone has a bag who can answer this here?

I will keep those pic at Picasa. No problem.

Thanks.

Oops - meant turf_junkies lawn looks great.

Vkolte - As for weed control, chemical may be the best way to go. But to get more nitrogen in the yard, organics will probably be your best option so that you don't risk burning your lawn. Overdosage of chemicals can easily burn your lawn whereas the organics will take their time to decompose. A dual approach of chemical/organic may the best approach right now to address both of your issues.

Good luck.