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Installing an exhaust fan in the HFGH 10x12 (photos)

18 years ago

I just installed an exhaust fan in my HFGH 10x12. It was an easy installation, but Ill post photos in case it helps other new owners of HFGHs.

We used this fan calculator to determine that our greenhouse would require a fan capable of exchanging roughly 1500 CFM (cubic feet per minute.) I ordered a 16" three-speed louvered exhaust fan from ACF Greenhouses. The three settings are capable of 2950, 2050, and 1200 CFM, so at the highest setting IÂm thinking it should exchange the air in our greenhouse about twice a minute.

We installed the fan in the high part of the back wall. First we removed the Rear Center Panel (part 57.)


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One of the modifications we made to the back wall was the addition of a small brace made of ½" x ½" aluminum angle (so we could screw the upper poly panels to it.) Now, we had to cut part of the brace away to install the fan. (This is called Lack of Planning.)


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The fan came prewired with a 9Â cord, and four mounting holes. We bought a 4Â length of 1/8" thick 1" x 1" aluminum angle from LoweÂs, and cut it in half. We drilled four holes in each piece of aluminum angle; the two center holes were used to bolt the aluminum angle to the top and bottom of the fan.


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The aluminum angle bolted to the fan was then attached to the greenhouse frame by inserting bolts into the track.


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Time to cut the hole in the polycarbonate panel. I measured the outside of the fan, and the space on each side of the fan, and marked the hole on the panel with a permanent black marker. The poly was actually much easier to cut than I thought it would be; I laid the panel on cardboard, and used a sharp box knife and a metal straightedge.

I won't be afraid to cut more holes in my poly panels if I need to...I was relieved to find it cuts very easily.


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HereÂs the panel reinstalled over the fan. I caulked the small gap on all four sides of the fan with clear silicone caulk, to keep rain and cold air out.


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The installed fan from inside the greenhouse. It works! At the highest speed it's noiser than I'd like, but I guess that's to be expected.


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IÂm thinking IÂll have to figure out a cover for the louvered outside portion of the fan during the coldest winter months when itÂs not in use...to prevent air leaks...is that what you folks do?

Sheri

Comments (19)

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Last winter I just cut a piece of clear plastic the size of the shutters and used duck tape to cover it.
    The one I have will actually blow open if it is very windy so during the heating season you want to seal it
    The old gray duck tape will stay put through rain and it will hold for much longer than you will need it.
    I have mine installed with aluminum angle also and it is a 16" the 12" would not be large enough for warm weather.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    That would work. I think the louvers on mine will also blow open. I have no idea how late into the winter I'll be running the fan (newbie mystery #574) but I figured at some point I'd be shutting it down.

    The 16" does seem to work, especially on the high speed. I'm glad I didn't try anything smaller, I'm pretty sure I would have been disappointed.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Very nice job & pics, mudhouse! My 16" shutter fan and 20" motorized (intake) shutter have been waiting on summer to end--way too hot here to work outside! ;)

    I'm installing the fan over the door, and the intake opposite, owing to prevailing winds here. Got a brace in mind to keep the door from sagging so I will post pics also!

    Thanks for the inspiration--they say Fall might begin here (So. Central TX) tomorrow!

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I did mine different than what is accepted practice.
    They always say install the exhaust fan high in the rear and the intake low at the front. The front corners in mine have stuff blocking the air flow so since the ceiling fan runs constant when plants are in the GH I installed the Intake in the same location as the fan only it is in the front. The cool air flows straight through but the ceiling fan blows the cool air down over the plants and therefore the greenhouse is cooled evenly and when the outside air is really cool I have three options to keep from shocking the plants.
    # 1 run the ceiling fan slow
    # 2 I bought exhaust fan with variable speed motor and I installed a speed control on it so I can run it slow
    #3 I can run both fans slow
    I have a option for any condition may be different than what is normal but sure works good.
    I guess you could say I think outside the box but if it works well kinda hard to argue with success.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    This is what I love about forums like this...everyone finds their own way to do what works best for them, and shares it here. I find it very reassuring that there are a lot of different ways to accomplish a goal, not just one "right way" to set things up.

    I can see that lots of flexibility would be a good thing (adjusting fan speeds to ever-changing conditions.)

    Laserfan, I hope you will post pics of the fan over the door (and the brace.) Lol, tell me about working in the heat on the greenhouse! Our brains are fried.

    This morning I installed a thermostat from kkontrols on my exhaust fan. Testing it today and (phew) it works. I plan to build a box for all the thermostats but for now it's hiding in the shade under my bench:


    {{gwi:307078}}

    Only problem is I fussed about wanting in-use outlet covers on my three outlets, but the way this thermostat works, the plug for the fan goes into the back of the thermostat plug. Which makes a huge combined plug that sticks out way too far for my fancy outlet covers to close. I'll have the same problem with my heater thermostat. Rats!


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    Another lesson learned...

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    SHERI
    I cant tell by looking at your picture but most of those have a little tab that you use needle nose pliers and break it out.
    Be sure to break it on the bottom they are made so you can mount them 90 degrees from how you have your mounted so they have pieces on both sides.
    If your don't have them use a skill saw or sharp knife and cut opening for the wire then you can close the lid.
    Be careful if you use a knife I would hate to see you hurt trying to do something that I told you to do.
    If you have a sharp pair of side cuts they would work also have your hubby to do it.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    WOW Sheri you are really moving along there!! Looks great. And yeah, you'll be REALLY glad you got the larger fan. The more air you can move the better (and not have plants taking flight). And from reading your posts, I'll bet you figure out those covers in no time at all. LOL.....

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Verrrrrrrrry Nice!

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Ladies,
    I seem to see a lot of loose wire running about. REMEMBER you are in a very wet location and water and electricity DO NOT MIX very well. You should be using liquid-tite conduit on the inside. The ceiling fan blades already seem to be suffering from too much moisture.
    I am not trying to rain (pun intended)on your parade, but I don't want to read about you in the newspaper either.
    Be careful PLEASE

    1eyedJack and the Dawg

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks Pat and Nancy!

    Gardenerwantable, sorry the pic isn't clear. Yup, the punch-outs for the cords to pass through are already out, no problem there. (And I know just what you mean about the option of mounting it 90° and having two punch-outs.)

    The problem isn't where the cords go, it's the plugs themselves, and it's only because these two have to be piggy-backed together.

    My thermostat isn't hardwired into the fan. It's designed so you first plug the thermostat into the outlet, and then you plug the (fan, heater, whatever) into the back of the thermostat plug. So, the two plugs are piggy-backed together. The two plugs together are almost 5" long, but the clear bubble cover on these in-use outlet covers is only 2 1/2 to 3" deep. One plug by itself works great (cover closes and it looks lovely.) Two big plugs piggybacked together, no go! I'm still thinking.

    Jack, thanks for your concern. You are right about electricity and water. All of our wiring is protected in 3/4" conduit, with GFCI outlets and (the ill-fitting) in-use outlet covers to be as safe as possible. You might be seeing the heavy cords of the fan and thermostat, which will be secured with plastic cable ties as soon as I figure out where the thermostat should live. I am far too chicken to have loose wires running about!

    I think Gardenerwantabe's ceiling fan blades just have a relaxed attitude toward life, which is a goal of mine. :-)

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    This is great info! I've been looking at the kkontrols (with piggy-back plug) on eBay. And I now see that maybe the hard wired ones would work better for me without having to be undone and then redone. I have two smaller fans I want to get on thermostats like my large fans. I'll show my husband the Farmteck link you sent too Wantabe!!
    Thanks!! Pat.........

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Gardenerwantabe, I don't know if you're a shameless scrounger type like I am, but I've seen sets of ceiling fan blades for next to nothing at thrift stores like Goodwill. That way you can have more money to spend on important things like car restoration.

    Thanks for the link. I suspect we could modify the thermostat to be hard wired into the fan. I hate to go to that trouble for a dumb plastic cover. However, my Head Electrician says he'll look at it today and we'll brainstorm. My blonde idea at this point is a baggie over the whole thing. :-)

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    SHERI WROTE
    Gardenerwantabe, I don't know if you're a shameless scrounger type like I am, but I've seen sets of ceiling fan blades for next to nothing at thrift stores like Goodwill. That way you can have more money to spend on important things like car restoration
    ____________________________________________________

    Boy I wish I could find a way to cut cost on the show car it really runs into the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
    I checked the fan today and it did not move much over night so I used my electric heat gun and it came back to very near normal shape.
    Other than looks I don't think it really matters it is the pitch on the blade that makes it work but it looks much better straight.
    I have got some work to do on the GH before the wife can use it again but I have until the first of the year so no hurry.
    I"m going to have back surgery in a couple weeks so that will bring things to a halt for awhile but hopefully I will be able to do more after I go in for an overhaul!!!

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Hey Gardenerwantabe,

    What are those green blops you've got in your GH? Looks like they're some kinda thingamagigs that fit into the tracks of the HFGH.

    I'm assuming they're holding your bubble-wrap up, so I'm most curious (in case I end up needing to do bubble-wrap in my GH).

    Is there a thread that describes your construction and Bubble-Wrap addition, perhaps?

    Thanx!

    -Nancy

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Those are to hold the bubble wrap up.
    They have been discussed here before some don't like them because they came out.
    I had that problem at first but it is caused by the insulation pushing the clip back so I started turning them 180 degrees then back to 90 this pretty much cured the problem but I still have one come out once in awhile.
    They have double sided tape and adhesive to put it up with but the adhesive must be compatible with the poly panel or it may ruin them.
    If you put the wrap up you will need to decide what you want to use.
    I have put a link for the clips below.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Idea when using non-motorized shutters. If your shutters are being blown or sucked open by the wind you might want to try this as it is what I plan to do with mine if I ever get to that stage.

    Rare Earth Magnets! These are a new type of magnet that is incredably strong for the size. I intend to use small ones to hold the shutters shut. The fan will be able to blow them open and when the fan goes they close and stay closed. If you want a site to look at email me and I will provide it.'
    An example of their strength: if you took two of the 3/4 inch round by 3/4 inch high and separated them say a foot apart and had someone to place a finger between them and then released them it would break their finger. I kid you not about them guys.

    1eyedJack and the Dawg

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Their is a couple flaws in your plan.
    The shutter is hinged off center and it requires that the fan runs pretty fast to open them so anything as Strong as what you describe the fan will not be able to blow them open.
    The other problem with your plan is the shutters are made from either plastic or aluminum depending on which kind you buy and since magnet will not stick to either material your idea will not work.
    When not in use (like in winter) blow open shutters need to be sealed shut.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Sitting on the sidelines waiting for you all to post. Life would be difficult without you all. I should be geeting my doors next week. We bought the greenhouse last feb. Sherri we are doing are fan like yours. We spent the money on the solar one. OOPS should not of done that. Oh well newbie mistake.

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