They top photo looks a little wilted, probably from lack of moisture. Maintain the soil evenly moist as best as you can so you do not have dry and moist episodes. Use the finger method for two weeks to help you decide when to water. Every day, insert a finger to a depth of 4" and see whether it feels wet, moist or dry. Then only water (1 gallon) when it feels dry or almost dry. Maintain 3-4" of acidic mulch so you do not have to water often. Make a note on a wall calendar when you water. After two weeks, observe how often you had to water. Then set your sprinkler, drip irrigation or manually water on the same frequency (1 gallon of water every 3/4/5/6 days for example). If the temperatures vary by 10-15 degrees and stay there, consider using the finger method again to recheck. Water the soil, not the leaves, very early in the morning. Watering leaves can promote fungal leaf diseases.

Azaleas and rhododendron have some tiny fibruous roots on the top 4" of the soil and they do not like to be disturbed. To acidify the soil, do not rototill. Instead sprinkle some garden Sulphur, iron sulfate, greensand or liquid iron-chelated compounds. Most of these are available in local nurseries. Be sure to follow the package directions. You do not want to add more than specified, especially sulpfur which can burn small roots.

I agree the first photo looks a little wilted. Being wilted in the heat of the day is perfectly normal. Only water if they are wilted in the morning. Too much water is much more serious a problem than not enough. When you do water, water thoroughly.

It is normal for newly planted rhododendrons and azaleas to have water problems. One thing some people in the West don't realize is that we in the East get rain all summer in most years. Hence, it is not good for us to use automatic sprinklers when the soil is already saturated. That is one reason the site where we plant must have good drainage.

If watering doesn't cause the leaves to perk up, they were probably not planted properly. The root ball must be moist when they are planted. It should be heavy. If it is light, it means it is dry and it may not accept water unless it is dug up and soaked. Once the media gets dry, it is very hard to get it to accept water. Here is what rhododendron guru Harold Greer said:

"Quite often a plant will get completely dry and then no matter how much water you apply, the rootball will just keep shedding it. The top of the soil may seem wet, and the soil around the plant may even be very wet, but the actual rootball of the plant is bone dry. This is especially true for newly planted rhododendrons, and it is the major reason for failure, or at least less than great success with that new plant. It is hard to believe that a plant can be within mere inches of a sprinkler that has been running for hours and still be dry, yet it can be SO TRUE!"

Also, when planting container grown plants, be sure to either cut or unwrap the roots that are amassing at the pot wall. These will eventually make the plant root-bound if they weren't opened up when planting.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons and azaleas.