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Designing with perennials

18 years ago

I have a brick-bordered rectangular planter area measuring 4ft by 11 ft near the entry. It gets morning sun and doesn't have automatic irrigation.

I'm thinking of planting five 'Dwarf Wheeler' Pittosporums as main shrub, but unsure if perennials would be okay as a lower "front row." I can only imagine that a small row of something would look interesting. I've never used perennials/ annuals before but saw some nice ones with upright white flowers and dark spreading leaves. Forgot to write down the name. Clymatem or something.

I don't know much about caring for perennials. I don't how to choose perennials. Any suggestions?

{{gwi:52413}}

Comments (13)

  • 18 years ago

    Looks like you're going to have to water regularly. Not much is going to be happy in the situation you picture without water--not even in zone 5, and by your plant references, you're south of that.

  • 18 years ago

    What is at the bottom of your rectangle? It looks mighty shallow to grow anything. Perhaps it is a spot for putting potted plants?
    What growing zone are you?
    Areas near house foundations get leaching from the bricks/cement. They are usually very dry areas too and are covered by the roof overhang.
    Perhaps every spring you could place containers of annuals there and water them once or twice each day, as needed. There are forums on container gardening. Check out the nurseries in your area for some advice. Look at the homes in your area to see what grows well for your neighbours in similar light and soil conditions.

  • 18 years ago

    To choose perennials, first check your USDA hardiness zone (see link below). Or ask your local weatherman where your town falls into that category. Say if you're 5, don't purchase anything rated higher than that. How long does the area get morning sun? You could use part-sun or full sun plants. This isn't scientific, but will give you an idea - full sun is 6 or more hours or direct sun, part-sun/shade is 4 or less hours of sun, dappled shade is where you get some sun that might be diffused by trees, shade can come in varying degrees, but is usually no direct sun or 2 or less hours of it. It's really trial and error with some plants, but that will give you an idea of where to start.

    I agree that's not a good area for plants. The fact that it will never get natural rainfall is a really bad idea. I don't care how much you water, unless you install water lines on a timer, it will never be enough. It will be a lot of work for you (not enjoyable) and your plants will never thrive. It's also way too shallow and boxed in by too much concrete pavers. If you really want a workable front bed, you would need to totally re-do it by either putting in a larger raised bed to extend well beyond the overhang or pulling out a good chunk of that concrete and creating a larger bed in the ground. That may not be in your budget, so the container idea is a nice compromise. You could use many annuals and even some perennials and get really creative. You'd have many more options that way. And because you're using a richer potting soil, your plants will do a lot better. If you used self-watering containers that would lessen your watering chores even more. You could even do a window box on the smaller window. It would look great.

    Here is a link that might be useful: USDA Hardiness Zone Map

  • 18 years ago

    Sorry I forgot to mention my zone. It's 9. I'm in the SF bay area. It seems my initial idea of tapping into house water for irrigation (through the foundation vent visible in the photo) might have to be resurrrected. I thought it was too much work for such a small area, but being a primary spot at the front, it might be worth it. It'll start off as a simple hose bibb. Timer might be possible later.

    As for bedding depth, I've already filled it with commercial landscape soil. Currently it's leveled at one course shy of the top. It's now ready with really good soil. The spot gets about 5 hours of sun at equinox.

    The things I don't know about perennials include: okay to simply insert next to the other shrubs and water weekly? Okay to mulch next to them (because they are low to the ground)? Will they thrive for years or will I have to uproot and replant in two years? Must I apply that special perennial plant food even for the excellent new commercial landscape soil?

  • 18 years ago

    You're going to have to water more than weekly, especially as your plants are getting established. The easiest thing would be to lay down a soaker hose. But don't do anything silly like leaving it on all night, as my neighbour discovered the hard way.

    With that very restricted growing space, I'd opt for dwarf shrubs and relatively small perennials. I won't give any specific plant advice, because I have no experience with your kind of climate. The smaller plants would not need as much room for root growth. And to keep it simple, I'd pick just one kind of shrub and one kind of perennial. Although in your zone, you could probably grow impatiens year-round. To my mind, that's a tender annual, but in Zone 9, it's probably sold as a perennial. That would be a relatively inexpensive, simple thing to start with. You can always change your mind in a couple of years if you want.

    Janet's Garden

  • 18 years ago

    Thanks for the idea on impatiens. I'm starting to look more into them, and I like what I see.

    This brings up another question...

    If watering is that much more important for low-lying flowers, would my little planter area be better with TWO separately timered soaker hoses -- one for the larger shrubs and the other for the small flowers?

    I'll do it if I have to. Irrigation will be installed today. I'm planning on just terminating with a hose bibb and getting one (or two) of those battery-powered timer attachments. They're just bulky and ugly, especially in such a small planter area.

  • 18 years ago

    You folks 'really' honestly think that a person can't maintain a tiny planting area like that with a garden hose?????? Yikes!

  • 18 years ago

    I'll add my "yikes!" as well. I have a similar situation at the back of my patio where a fireplace (beauty truly was in the eye of the builder) was knocked down to create a retaining wall plant area with stepped planting areas down each side fitting into the slope of the yard. Mine is bottomless so drainage isn't an issue. You didn't indicate if the bottom of your spot is open ground or is on an impervious slab of some sort. That would be the bigger issue, perhaps. A garden hose should be ALL you need for an irrigation system. In fact, once you get into it and see how nice plants look you'll probably enjoy watering. But, go to "Other Forums" here on the GW and check out some of the posts in California Gardening; they'd have some good ideas for what plants do well in your part of the country.

  • 18 years ago

    hmmm, interesting...., I have no desire to get into a 'water your garden' debate, been reading those here all summer. This is a 4X11 , guys.

    My suggestions on your planting area is to take your photo to a local nursery--a good one. Explain your planting area, sunlight, how you plan to provide water to area ( which how much and when will depend on the plants you pick for the most part), tell them about the soil you have added and those types of details. They will take you around and show you plants that will work, giving you a selection. After you see the plants and put together a 'plant plan' then study a bit about each plant you think you will purchase so that when you do make the purchase and get them home and installed you will know how to tend to the plantings. When you are ready to purchase ask to see their selection of mulches and discuss with the nursery the mulch needs your plants/area will need.

    Do check out the CA forum, and walk your neighborhood and see what the neighbors are growing in similiar situations. You sound very new to 'gardening' and I think you really need some advice from a nursery that excells in your locale.

    Good luck to you, when it's all said and done, the front of your home will be lovely and well worth the trouble of the learning 'how's to' to get it that way.

  • 18 years ago

    Oh, and don't forget that Wheeler's Dwarf Pittosporum EASILY spreads to 3 to 4 feet. Give it room to grow for its best effect. And it HATES to be overwatered.

  • 18 years ago

    Well, folks, automatic irrigation is halfway done. There's no turning back now. I went all out and got a Rainbird twin timer. So now my tiny 4x11 will have two separate soaker hose circuits! Overkill perhaps, but now I have total flexibility. I can be lazy.

    D., there's no impervious bottom. You kidding? I personally jackhammered the concrete slab to create all this. It gets clayey the deeper I dig, but I think it drains fine. To the right in the photo will be a new french drain, so I'll have better than insurance. See my blog for updates if you're interested.

    Yes I'm still a newbie to gardening despite having planted nine trees, 45 linear feet of shrubs and 60 linear feet of vines in the last four years. Some mistakes... still crossing my fingers. The site was totally barren when I got here. So I only have four years of experience and none with flowers/ perennials/ annuals. Glad to be getting helpful ideas in this forum.

    Good suggestion about taking photo to nursery. I think I'll have to do just that. At this entry location, I don't want to make any glaring mistakes.

    Here is a link that might be useful: my blog on home improvements

  • 18 years ago

    Get some perennials for shade or half shade, and water when it needs it. I have a similar area, the first month of planting i watered for a few days, and now i water here and there and it is doing fine. A simple hose soak for a bit takes care of it. No big deal.

  • 18 years ago

    Be brave. Jump in with both feet. Find something you like and try it. If it doesn't work, replace it with something else. Most of all, get your hands in the dirt, and you might just become addicted like the rest of us !

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