you're not going to move those pines. . . .

Once a wild tree like Pinus ponderosa get more than a couple feet tall, they'll plant a tap root into the earth nearly that deep. Once past the seedling stage (1-2 years old) they really don't like to get moved. They'll let you know by dying.

Go ahead and hit up a nursery and get a bunch of new seedlings if it's your intent to live in a pine forest. They grow really fast (a couple feet a year once they get going).

Depending on where in Cali you're building, mix it up. There are a lot of really cool pines that are getting scarce down there. Pinus torreyana and Pinus coulteri are a couple that come to mind.

Most importantly, have fun!
~Dave

This post was edited by Glaciers-End on Sun, Feb 24, 13 at 23:13

Thanks Dave. What's the fastest growing of them all? I am kinda old and didn't (or couldn't) wait too long. I initial thought of moving some of the 15-20ft (8-10" dia) was based on that.

I would recommend leaving the larger ones no closer than 18' -24' from edge of foundation on south and west sides. Main purpose of larger ones is the increased shade they provide now, but nothing wrong with leaving smaller ones if you'd prefer.
Those grown in the open will survive better than those grown under shade/competition which will be tall and thin, as they are more prone to breakage once you clear the other trees out.
For those you decide to save, build a small fence out to about the dripline around them to hopefully protect them/roots from the coming construction.

you can NOT drive large machines for building houses.. over the root zone of large trees .. they will eventually die from soil compaction ... but in tree years.. that might be 5 or 10 years down the line. ..

so there is little use in saving older ones .. too near to the construction ...

so unless someone can define the driving area.. and your contractor will abide by such.. you will be severely limited as to what is useful to save ...

i live in MI.. plain old green pines.. not the foo foo ones.. grow 3 to 5 feet per year ... when you start with a 2 -3 year old bare root ... and give them a year or two to get 'established' [and that includes PROPER AFTERCARE] .... and will easily outgrow.. a 5 to 8 foot transplant.. in the first 5 years.. its all about transplant shock ... frankly.. there are NO SLOW PINES ...

if i were you.. i would mark out the building area.. and the access driveway ... mark that out.. remove everything nearby.. and one of the tree pro's will have to delineate that distance for you [they can confirm scot above] .. and stake and police tape it all off.. it will look rather comical during construction ... and then perhaps.. expect to lose a few more ...

and it is actually good.. because you dont really want dying trees falling on your new house.. and that would be the beauty of planting new.. nearer to the house ...

the death rate of moving 20 footers would be extreme.. even if you paid the best of the biz to move them.. its not a DIY type thing IMHO .... and i bet it would cost tens of thousands of dollars ... in theory.. anything can be done.. its just budget and las vegas odds ... or extreme heavy labor [like that one guy at the link .. if you use the search in GW.. you might find his other posts by searching his GW name] .... which is not my game.. but maybe its yours ...

now.. if you were doing a log cabin.. and were going to do it with a horse to drag in logs.. with no basement.. maybe we can save more ... but you didnt give us any facts in that regard.. so we are left to ponder large machines.. etc...

so.. ID and remove what must be done to ease construction .... and when you get to landscaping.. get back to us.. and list options on stock.. and probably providers ...

good luck

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

Yeah, unfortunately depending on your site, bldg. pad, orientation, etc. you may not be able to save any near the house. Most likely about one or possibly two sides, the existing trees can be saved and still give the builders sufficient access. If you try to save too much they will likely disregard what you marked or by accident tear it up.
As you're from Z9 assume shade is important hence my emphasis for leaving on south and/or west sides, if possible.
Also have you considered fire-proofing your house/lot from the rest of the forest? Typically this is done by a separation distance from either your house and any trees (no shade) or your immediate trees (hence some shade) and the rest of the forest.
Good luck with your project.

Who is Mark Zion? I want him to transplant a ponderosa pine for me

Who is Mark Zilm I want him to transplant a ponderosa pine for me