It depends on your location , but here in Pennsylvania I find squash vine borers to be the worst menace by far. They decimate my zucchini plants and bore into most of my winter squash. They get my vote because they seem so hard to control. I have plenty of other nasty pests, but they don't make the list because I have ways to counter them. Borers are number one.

I spoke with 3 reps at CORTEC they said no latex. They told me to use PVC rug pads from Bed bath and beyond not Walmart or target, by Mohawk which we did and it left waffle imprints under EVERY rugpad. When I tried to file a claim it was denied. They said it could be stripped which another rep said "you can't do that!" So I'm left with waffle prints. Was then told to only use RUGPAD USA. We got the anchor grip and they do work but are EXPENSIVE. If you call RUGPAD USA directly instead of Amazon ask for any kind of discount as we put this crap upstairs and downstairs. They actually did offer first time customer discount. Wish I knew then what I know now. I'd NEVER put this crap in my house.

For the most part, plants decline and die in situations where the amount of food/energy they're able to create (with the help of the sun) is less than they are expending to drive their metabolic processes. It doesn't LOOK like your tree is in any immediate danger of expiring, but symptoms made manifest by ongoing limitations commonly lag the cause by weeks to months. Necrotic leaf tips and margins are far more often than not a symptom of over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salt) in the soil solution. Occasionally it can be traced entirely to growers watering with their own version of enhanced frequency; more often, it's the result of a poor soil that simply does not allow the grower to water correctly w/o the plant paying a tax in the form of diminished root health because the soil remains saturated long enough to have attained the age of majority. Curing the effects of too much water in the soil starts by using a soil that doesn't hold too much water, and by default, not enough air. Then, using a 'tell' as an indicator of when it's appropriate to water to put a polish on what you practice. I use soils that hold no (or nearly no) excess (perched) water. That means I'd have to work very hard at over-watering. That scenario makes things easy for the grower and easy on the plant. If you've been forever in battle with your chosen soil for control of your plants' vitality, the change that occurs when you switch to a good soil (one that allows you to water correctly [so you're flushing accumulating salts from the soil whenever you water w/o your plant paying 'the tax'], will make it seem like you have somehow done something magic. Too, where a poor soil makes fertilizing something of a helter skelter proposition, good soils make it monkey easy. Your job, as chief grower, is figuring out what is most limiting to your plant and fixing it. This represents the difference between a plant surviving at the outer limits of what it's programmed (genetically) to tolerate and one that's growing in its 'sweet spot'. understanding how soils work, followed by understanding how plants work, are representative of the largest steps forward you'll likely make as a container gardener. There are several links I can suggest if you have interest? Low light and cool temps can cause plants to stall in sort of a consequential dormancy, but nutritional issues and root congestion can do the same; as can the cyclic death and subsequent regeneration of roots as the root mass wobbles back and forth between just right and too wet. Soggy soils kill roots. Before the top can/will grow, the root system has to be able to support new growth, so dead roots have to be replaced. The energy it takes to regenerate roots might have been put toward an increase in the plant's mass. The difference between what a plant is and what it could be is described as lost potential. Even plants that LOOK good can be losing out on an extreme measure of potential; and in plants, lost potential can never be regained under ANY circumstances. If your plant has a droopy or hang-dog look, it's likely from a lack of turgidity (internal water pressure), brought about by too little water, too much water, and/or a high level of dissolved solids in the soil. Unfortunately, after wilting the leaves of F lyrata often don't recover to occupy their former spatial positions. IOW, once they wilt, their attitude usually changes at least partially so that droopy appearance becomes a permanent thing. Try reading this. Al

I trim the branches as much as possible (which always results in getting bitten by 100 thrips), but the leaves fall on my side everyday. I sprayed the leaves with soapy solution, but there are still all these bugs... some bite, like the little tiny thrips, skinny black bugs with a butt that curves up... tiny gnat - sized black moths, and white ones that are even smaller have migrated into my house... little brown fruit fly sized beetles, tiny pepper - like specks (some are black and some are poppy seed colored) that bite and go under my skin, etc. I am afraid that spraying with a stronger pesticide will harm my garden snails, since they are always eating the fallen grape leaves (and yes, I like my garden snails and don't want to kill them). Also, some of the pests are now going onto my plants - I used to have yellow aphids only and now there are black long-legged ones,