There is an excellent source of information on Mold and Mold Remediation available on the EPA website (epa.gov/mold). There are discussions going on in some agencies about the effects and use of bleach. Commercial grade disinfectants such as "TB Quat", "Vyrex", or Hospital grade "Vital Oxide" are available, and should be considered in lieu of bleach. Always read, and use these products in accordance with, the manufacturer's label. Natural disasters, like Hurricane Sandy, will continue to affect the lives and livelihoods of their survivors; not to mention the thousands of volunteers that will join in the recovery. Please take the time to understand how this horrific event could affect your property and health in the future. Take seriously the old adage, "To be forewarned is to be forearmed". I'm no expert, but allow me to provide you with a short primer. The fact is that mold is an integral and essential part of our daily lives. It is present in food items, fermentation, fertilization, waste management, and even in the air we breathe. But a few Molds are dangerous to your health if exposed to them. All Mold require three (3) things to grow: 1) a minimal level of moisture, 2) organic matter, and 3) heat [in a limited range]. Take away any one item and Mold will not grow. That does NOT mean, however, that it is dead. And cleaning by wiping surfaces with Bleach, or other disinfectant, is not effective at removing the threat of its return. A microscopic look at the structure of Mold on the surface of organic matter reveals the presence of roots. A certain amount of vigorous scrubbing and drying is required for a thorough cleaning. Mold roots can sleep dormant for a very long time; awakening to start growing again when the three ingredients for growth are again present. Forty-eight hours of incubation is usually enough time for Mold to start growing. And if the affected area is larger than Ten (10) square feet, it is strongly recommended that you seek professional help in removing the affected material and personal property; especially if effluent (sewage) is present. A good Rule of Thumb is to remove all finish material (carpet, drywall, wall finishes, cabinets, etc.) at least 18" above the observed high water line, and to get rid of furnishings with stuffing and padding (bedding, rugs, drapery, sofas, chairs, etc. - anything that can not be thoroughly cleaned and guaranteed). If it continues to have a moldy smell, I would suspect that it's not clean enough. The homes and lives of those survivors most affected will be those without homeowner's or flood insurance. I have witnessed the clean-up process continue for years after the impact of the initial disaster. Several non-profit disaster recovery agencies will be involved. After the Early Responders have gone home, the Long-Term-Recovery personnel will be providing their skills and resources. The vast number will be trained volunteers. I would counsel patience and hope and cooperation of the efforts of those less fortunate; with their desire to clean, make repairs, and stay in their homes; and the efforts of the volunteers to help them accomplish their goal.

What are biological contaminants? https://www.ductless-mini-split-air-conditioner.org/ Biological contaminants are living things or are produced by living things. They include mould, house dust, bacteria, viruses, animal dander, cat saliva, pollen, cockroaches and mites. What are moulds? Moulds are fungi, naturally found both indoors and outdoors. Except for yeasts, which reproduce by budding, moulds spread by releasing tiny spores into the air. Warm and damp conditions inside your home help mould to grow, resulting in mould spores in indoor air. What are some health problems caused by moulds and other biological contaminants? Many biological contaminants are small enough to be inhaled and some can cause health problems. Moulds, for example, can cause allergic reactions. Bacteria and viruses can cause infections. Mould can also cause infections, but it rarely does. Some studies have found increases in common symptoms such as coughing, wheezing and headaches in people who live in homes with dampness and visible mould. What causes moulds to grow? High humidity or indoor air moisture levels cause mould growth. For example, large differences between inside and outside temperatures can cause water to condense on windows causing mould to grow on frames or sills. Water coming in to the house from outside, from the roof or from plumbing leaks can cause moisture. Damp areas can also result from daily activities around the house like bathing, washing clothes or cooking. Moisture from humidifiers or bathrooms without proper ventilation may also help mould grow. How do I know if my home has moulds? Mould growth may appear on damp surfaces such as window sills, interior-facing walls and bathtub caulking. If there are leaks in the roof or outside walls, there could be moisture inside the wall. The back side of drywall, wood studs, insulation, plywood and building paper might be wet. Look for discoloration or stains on damp areas. Mould often looks fuzzy or powdery and is usually light green to brown or black in colour. Mould growth may not be visible on the surfaces of interior-facing walls because of water coming into the wall from the outside. Moulds can also be found on or under water-damaged surfaces, such as behind baseboards, tiles and carpets. Moulds often give off a ‘musty’ smell. What can I do to prevent and control moulds? The key to controlling mould, is to control moisture. To prevent moisture, high humidity and condensation, you can take these steps: Install and use exhaust fans vented to the outside in moist areas, such as kitchens and bathrooms Use a timer to run bathroom fans for 30 minutes after showering Vent clothes dryers to the outside Ventilate attic and crawl spaces to prevent moisture build up. If the crawl space is bare earth, cover it with plastic If there is high humidity in your home that can’t otherwise be controlled, use a dehumidifier. Make sure you have the device that best meets your room size and humidity Repair all internal and external water leaks right away Remove water sources that may contribute to mould growth, such as standing water in planters Stop stagnant water from collecting around heating ventilation and air conditioning system parts. Empty drip pans regularly. Keep stagnant water sources clean and disinfected Do not use humidifying devices with water spray if anyone with asthma lives in the household. If you do use these devices, clean them before each use How can I clean up mould? If the area is small (less than 1 metre square) you can clean the mould yourself. Make sure you wear household rubber gloves, safety glasses or goggles and a mask when you are cleaning. If the area is larger, it may require special training or commercial cleaners. If you are doing the cleaning yourself, make sure to: Clean all smooth surfaces with mould growth using detergent and water Clean and dry water damaged carpets, underlay and building materials within 24-48 hours, or consider throwing them out Throw out contaminated porous materials, such as mouldy ceiling tiles, drywall or carpets with mildew Once clean-up is done, be sure to fix the underlying cause (water damage, too much humidity or not enough ventilation) to prevent more mould from growing again

First - 30 lashes with a wet noodle for not making sure you knew how to handle the material BEFORE you decided on it. Here's the bad news: Finishing the top of the slab is not enough. You need to seal the bottom and all cut edges. 1 - REMOVE the slab. 2 - Turn it over and apply a couple of heavy coats of Waterlox to the bottom, and the edges of sink cutout. If you don't have the bottom of the slab sealed, it will warp with changes in humidity. 3 - Then turn it right side up and apply up to 6 to 8 coats of Waterlox, following the directions and sanding lightly between coats. (they say you don't have to, but I decided it looked better) 4 - Before you install the sink, spread a thin layer of clear silicon caulk onto and around the edges of the sink cutout and let it dry. An old credit card makes a good applicator. You need to cover the cut edges and about an inch on the bottom, outside the cutouts. 5 - When you install the sink, tape around where the edge of the sink will be. Completely fill the lip of the sink with more silicon caulk and set it in place. Let it set up a bit, then peel off the tape and the excess caulk.

To those who do not like the new "white" marble counters and prefer the dark granite: some of us do not have perfect eyesight, and light counters are much better for preparation; isn't that what kitchen countertops are for? I have lived in two houses with dark or black granite countertops, I can say that they show every drop of water left there, and if you don't dry them immediately after any use, the water "stain" looks awful; they are not as forgiving as lighter shades or granite with lots of swirl or pattern. As I posted earlier, with dark-stained wood floor, this kitchen will look absolutely fabulous. And yes, to each his own :) !