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2ajsmama

Is it OK to use wavy-edged tile for a tub deck?

13 years ago

I'm nearly convinced to use the same tile for the tub deck as I have for the floor - I have enough. Surround looks like it will be wood, as will be the apron material, or I'll just do a deco and a bullnose. I just haven't found a square tile I like with my floor.

Here is the floor tile:

Here's the tub - only have 4-5" to tile along the edge at the widest point (plus enough to slip under the rim since the tub is foamed in place), roughly a foot at the ends, of course more than that along the curves. The tile is 11.75" (roughly)

Will this look OK with a rustic barn board apron (and maybe low surround)? Is there any reason not to use this tile on the deck (other than the edges having to be squared off along the front and where they meet the walls - but since the corner of the deck sticks out 1.5" past the linen closet (see 2nd and 3rd photos), the drain end of the deck will have to have all the tiles cut at the wall to keep the grout lines straight, I could cut an extra 1/4" off each to get the wavy edge off the corner piece. The front and back pieces will have to be cut anyway - probably use a little less than 1/2 tile on each side at the narrowest point. So that really only leaves the right-hand wall that would have to be squared off, I'll have to make sure that I don't have a tiny corner then at the ends of the tub but I think it can be done.

But should I keep trying to find a square-edged tile so I have the smallest, straightest grout lines possible on the deck?

I am definitely using this tile on the floor, I have a similar tile in the other bath and love it!

Thanks

Comments (4)

  • 13 years ago

    Bump - any comments?

  • 13 years ago

    I don't know why, but I don't like the idea of the same tile on the floor and the deck. I think it would look funny- like you were trying to make the tub blend in with the floor or something.

    I don't know what the difference is between an apron and a surround. If it was my bath, I would put up plywood before attaching barn wood across the front because I have a lot of spiders, and I would not want them crawling out between the barn wood slats. Will you attach the wood on the front before tiling? Will the edge of the top be wood molding or v-cap? I love your floor tile. Have you considered a large plain white porcelain tile, shiny, with teeny grout lines, that would match the tub? It might look like the whole deck is one material.

    Renee

  • 13 years ago

    Well, originally I planned on granite tiles on the deck and granite countertop. But the vanity was too small for granite for some reason (Lowes came out to measure), and I was concerned about the weight, the granite tile at Job Lot sold out so the bathroom has just been sitting waiting for me to find the right tile for the deck (and get around to tiling it and the floor). Now my design has taken a new direction thanks to my cousin's DH gutting the old farmhouse to put in insulation, wiring and drywall.

    The "barn board" is actually wide plank tongue and groove chestnut (?) roughly handplaned that was used as the original interior walls in the one room (and pantry) that was the whole house built in 1743. Later when the house was added onto, it was covered with lathe and horsehair plaster. I helped tear down all the old plaster (broke my heart) last year and scrape linoleum off the old wide pine floorboards that he is now ripping down to make door and window trim. He was going to use the beadboard as wainscot but my cousin just wanted this room done (it's going to be their master BR, they keep moving as they finish rooms) so he just drywalled everything. He would have painted it white b/c she didn't want a dark room (it's got 3 windows in it!) so I'm glad he didn't use it, said I could have it.

    Even though it was all around the room, he didn't seem to have much of it and westiegirl suggested that it be highlighted more in my bath by just using it on the apron (front of the tub going down to the floor) and maybe a little on the surround (where the deck meets the walls above the tub). Also on the countertop of a "farm table" vanity I will build to drop my sinks into. The rough boards will have to be planed for the countertop to get rid of the plaster streaks and to make them smooth, that will get rid of the bead but the tongue and groove will still fit together (I'd also use pocket screws I think for strength underneath the countertop).

    I was hoping just to sand the planks to use in the tub area by hand (orbital sander) just so they're not rough enough to scrape my legs, but keep the bead. I don't mind if some plaster streaks (embedded in the grain, not sitting on top) still show, think that gives it character. The top edge will be routed down in an eased profile to cover the edges of the tile.

    No, I hadn't considered white tile for the deck - never thought of making it look like a big rectangular tub, since there is a high rim, it's not undermounted.

    I don't know whether it's best to tile the floor and deck first, then put the wood on the apron or not. Might be - last house we built the apron first, made sure it stood proud of the deck enough for tile and thinset, but then when the guy tiled it we had a few spots here and there that were lower than the wood edge, and 1 spot that was higher.

  • 13 years ago

    OK, if I am doing wood on the walls, or just a very short section of tile (like just deco and bullnose 6" high), I do have enough of this tile to do the deck ONLY.

    What do you think? Still have to pick a paint color, if one chip stands out let me know that too! Thanks