Thanks arewethereyet!

Oh believe me, I'm not planning on skimping with my electrical choices. I'm actually trying to prepare myself for the overage. I think I have covered everything I could possibly want or need in our home as far as that goes. Whether the hubby thinks I need all of these "extras" is another thing. ;o)

Requirements for receptacles are a little more detailed than every 12'. And there are exceptions where, in coordination with your electrical inspector (almost always someone other than the bldg insp), you can forego placement of a receptacle. Here are a few things based on lessons learned during my build:

- receptacles and switches should be placed at uniform heights within a room. BUT, there is no code dictating the heights. Outlet heights can be adjusted for kids and the physically handicapped.

- Have bath/kitchen cabinet layout designed first to ensure wall outlets clear countertop backsplashes and stay below wall cabinets.

- Plan for more receptacles than code requires. Code is the minimum. You can overdo it but I recommend the following: receptacle below every room wall switch, receptacles in roof eaves for Christman/party lights, exterior receptacles at each corner of house (at ground and deck levels), at least one receptacle in unfinished spaces (e.g., attics), and a ceiling outlet in every room (whether for immediate or future use).

- Code requires 20A GFCI receptacles in baths/kitchens. This requires 12ga wiring whereas 15A circuits require only 14ga wire. However, many electricians today install 12ga wiring throughout. 12ga is thicker and more expensive but is a worthwhile investment. Another option is to see if your electrician is willing to put receptacles and lights on separate circuits. Run receptacles using 12ga and lights using 14ga.

- tie your smoke/CO2 detectors to a lighting circuit used on a daily basis. This helps to quickly alert you if the breaker pops and you lose primary power to the detectors.

- don't forget to plan low voltage (CATV, computer network, telephone, etc.) outlet locations. Try to keep about 10" from electrical outlets.

- run an underground line to any building not attached to the house.

- ask about whole house surge protection at your electrical panel BUT still plan to use surge protected power strips for all your electronics.

This may seem complicated but I think receptacle layout design is much easier than lighting design. Good luck.

If you control a receptacle with a dimmer switch you must use a special receptacle and appliance plug in order to avoid the danger of dimming devices like TV's and heaters.

Smoke and CO2 detectors should be on a separate circuit so that a ground fault in other fixtures or wiring will not cause the detectors to become inoperable. The detectors should automatically alert you to loss of power.

The person you should be talking to is your project designer or electrician.

keep in mind it is better to have and not need, than need and not have! if your panel allows for it, make sure certain rooms have at LEAST 2 20A circuits for teh recpts. you would hate to install a home theater system later on and every time you turn teh lights on or plug up something it trips the breaker! (been there done that!)

to add to the above, double check with the electrical inspector. there have been threads on here about folks being required to put an outlet into a granite backsplash after the fact because teh codes dictate one every X feet.

You may want some outlets at special heights. In my laundry room, I have an outlet at a height convenient to plug in an iron. In an office area, there is an outlet above the desk to make it convenient to plug in a desk lamp.

I believe that the term 'standard amount' is of course, 'never enough' when you need them.

LOL, jasonmi! IMO, "standard amount" depends on who is defining and whether or not they are paying.

robinson622 ~
With the floor plan in front of you, and preferably a list of your furnishings: study room by room and think about [and then mark on the plan] where you may want floor lamps, desk lamps, radios/TVs, computers, telephones, and an area for recharging rechargeables. Don't forget annual usages such as Christmas tree/s and lights, or special usage such as a room fogger for a baby, or lighting for shelves and/or pictures as well outlets for shavers and hair dryers. Then go back and be sure there are outlets placed inbetween the ones you marked; my preferance is no more than 4' apart. The kitchen is a whole separate issue as it depends on your usage of small appliances and how many [if any] will be in their own garage. I don't think I've ever heard anyone say they had too many outlets in the kitchen. I prefer counter outlets to actually be just below the cabinets, maximum 12" apart, and a spacious garage that permits each appliance to be used without interfering with the others ~~ some folks use a garage only for one or two items, and some store all their gadgets in one area, while others wouldn't want anything to do with the idea. However, if you do want multiple outlets for a garage, a surge-protected strip outlet can be handy and not too expensive. I also have weatherproof outlets below (and to one side) of each sink in case light is required for a a repair -- which tells you that I've never been able to manage a flashlight and a wrench and hold whatever else all at the same time, lol.

Obviously, I'm one of those people who think outlets provide a lot of convenience for very little extra cost. Keep in mind that your primary expense is for the wiring and the labor -- and if you know what you want and don't go around changing things, it doesn't add much to put outlets at 4' instead or 8' or to have them placed where needed. BTW, a lot of folks do the multiplying (and gasp) for expensive outlet plates, but keep in mind that a plain plate from the discount house will do the job just as well as one from BigNameDesigner, and recycling used covers isn't sinful, especially in hidden locations or where they will be painted.

This weekend I took my plan and marked areas where I'd like outlets. Off the top of my head here are some places I put outlets:

bottom sides of front door for christmas lights
roof soffits for christmas lights
above kitchen cabinets
on each exterior wall
in master closet
in walk-in pantry
inside cabinet in mudroom for charging, etc.
inside cabinet in master bath and jack and jill bath
in fireplace mantle
in floor of family room
bottom of stairs for christmas lights up banister (or should the outlet be at the top landing?)
in roof of porch
below all windows for christmas lights
in storage room
on either side of bed 4 outlet plug
I heard something on this site about an outlet near the jacuzzi tub for heater??? not sure

I'm sure there's more, but I just can't think of them right now.

Any more ideas? I'm all ears.

One should be at waist-height wherever the ironing board will be. Don't forget the outlets for the washer and dryer as well as for appliances such as a freezer, wine cooler, or whatever.

If anyone is into crafts or sewing, consider extra outlets so that lamps and tools can be positioned for maximum comfort. I know one quilter who has outlets set under wall cabinets, and her floor cabinet tops actually unfold to double the usable surface; outlets are used for swingarm lamps, electric scissors, sewing machines, and irons. And there are gardeners who will want outlets available when they get into starting seeds (heat mats, sunlights, fans). Toolshops and hobbyists have their own requirements to consider.

You'll want a master switch to control all the Christmas lights; someone posted that their master was inside the MB closet. Wherever is convenient to turn them on and off -- I prefer timers.

I used to live in the "Far North." More than one builder put a switch in the MBR to control a dedicated outlet for an automobile block heater. I also saw MBR switches wired to control a coffee maker outlet in the kitchen.

If it's not already required by code, I would insist on at least two separate outlet and lighting circuits on each floor, in addition to the dedicated circuits. That way you still have lights and power on each floor if a breaker trips or has to be turned off for any reason.

I have a studio apartment, but theres only 1 outlet in the whole living room area. Is that legal?

- receptacles and switches should be placed at uniform heights within a
room. BUT, there is no code dictating the heights. Outlet heights can be
adjusted for kids and the physically handicapped.

Why do outlets need to be at a uniform height? I'm thinking of the kitchen ... you'd want outlets above the counter top, but in the same room you'd want outlets near the baseboards near the table. And what about the master bedroom? I want outlets in the traditional spot near the baseboard, but I also want an outlet "just above" each nightstand for charging phones conveniently.

keep in mind it is better to have and not need, than need and not have!

Maybe I'm just being argumentative, but I'll point out that outlets aren't free, and adding them just because could add up to real money in a hurry. The right answer is to consider your likely needs and "Goldilocks it" 'til it's just right. Not too many, not too few.

on each exterior wall I can see having outlets on the front and back for Christmas lights, but why on the sides of the house?
inside cabinet in mudroom for charging, etc. I think this'd be a waste -- no one wants to charge his or her phone in a distant room where it can't be heard. Instead I'd say put outlets in a convenient place in the kitchen and/or great room -- like near a small sideboard in the kitchen or end tables in the great room.
inside cabinet in master bath and jack and jill bath For what purpose?

I'll add a couple more: One near /behind the toilet ... might be for a plug-in nightlight, might be for a Toto Washlet. And you want to have an outlet on both sides of an island or peninsula -- useful for plugging in crock pots, hot glue guns, or phone chargers. One under the sink, even if you don't plan to have a garbage disposal -- a future owner might want one. In the garage in the area likely to become a corner workshop and one "up top" for the garage door opener. One by the fuse box ... so you can keep a plug-in flashlight next to it; when the power goes out, the flashlight'll light your way to the box, and then you can use it to figure out which switch to flip.

Janel Thomas-

What meets code (which is what "legal" means in your case) is whatever was required at the time the unit was constructed (or at the time it was last remodeled, if the wiring was touched). It's hard to imagine that would pass an inspection at any time in the last several decades, but without knowing how long ago this was done, the length of the walls, and the layout of your studio (the relation of the living room area to other adjacent areas) it's impossible to say whether it might have been originally compliant. The code is only a minimum, so there is nothing to prevent a builder from putting in more outlets than required for reasons of practicality. Apart from that, it still sounds shortsighted to only supply one outlet in the living area, and must be annoying to live with. It's also possible that, if this is an older, remodeled unit, maybe the owner didn't get permits, and just did what he wanted to and cheaped out. Unfortunately, I don't know if there is a way to get this improved as there is no requirement for owners to update wiring, once it is initially installed, if the code changes. Even if this was done without a permit, getting it addressed might be difficult , and would likely annoy your landlord if it was reported to authorities.

Terry, I have a couple questions about your recommendations. First, why a receptacle below every wall switch? I've been trying to think of what the purpose of that specific location would be, but no success. Second, you mention that CATV and internet connections should be a minimum of 10 feet from an electrical outlet. The problem, though, is the fact that one would presumably have a TV or computer, which would need an outlet to plug into, near where the CATV/internet connection is. How do you resolve that?

sail_away-

Terry suggested 10 inches, not 10 feet. However, I have several 2-gang boxes that have electrical on one side and internet and cable connections on the other, and I've never had any problems.

Terry hasn't been active for 7 years.

Oops, didn't pay attention to the dates! Thanks for answering Kudzu.

I assume a receptacle below a switch is for easy access for a vacuum cleaner or another household tool or device.

You eventually learn to read the dates first.

·
Overwire!
In short, do not settle for your electrical system “meeting” code. You want the system to exceed the code,
especially on the number and placement of receptacles. For example, the NEC requires receptacles to
be placed so that no point of a wall is more than 6 ft. horizontally from a
receptacle. This means that if you have
a 12 ft. long wall, a receptacle in the middle will meet code. If you use a 12 ft. x 12 ft. room as your
home office, will you be satisfied with a total of 4 receptacles? Given the profusion of electrical devices in
a modern home, the demand for receptacles is very high (especially if you are
into HA/HT). There are several possible
techniques to solve these problems.

• • Consider asking the
    electrician to use a 4 ft. rule instead of 6 ft. In the example given above, this would
    double the number of outlets to 8.
• Look at how you
  decorate. Some people like to put
  items (lamps, TVs, etc) in corners.
  In this case, you might want to put an outlet in the corner, and
  then start using the 4 ft. rule.
• Consider the intended
  use of the room. Some rooms will
  demand extra outlets.
  • Home Offices
  • TV/Media rooms
  • Home Theatres
  • Locations where you
    plan to have extensive holiday decorations.
  • Play rooms (and your
    kids have how many electronic gadgets)?
  • Exercise rooms (If
    you have a lot of electric powered machines, i.e. a treadmills, you
    might need a 20-amp circuit instead of a 15 amp.
  • Automation rooms
• The goal is to NEVER
  have to use an extension cord inside the house.
• Plan on
  running a dedicated 20A circuit (or two) to your future media center and
  Home Theatre. Clean power to the components is well worth it.

bznbaker-

That's good info. However, if it was meant to help "sail_away," she is in an apartment, so she can't legally have any mods made to the electrical. [EDIT: I meant to refer to "Janet Thomas" as having the apartment, not "sail_away"]

Kudzu, You may have me mixed up with someone else. I live in a standalone home and we are planning to downsize to a smaller home. Should start building that home in about a month. I am enjoying the opportunity to pick up more information in the meantime.

sail_away-

Sorry...my fault! I was moving to fast for my brain. I recently replied to Janet Thomas above, as well as you, and got you guys confused with that latest post of mine.

No problem, Kudzu. I'm amazed it doesn't happen more often.

I put in double outlets behind the nightstands - the ones with the built in USB ports. We also hid some in the sink cabinets in the bathroom for the hairdryers etc. Also we put in a triple in one of the upper cubbies so that we can charge all of jr's handheld games and gadgets in one place. Oh and behind the toilets to install Toto washlets. Also on top of ledges and above counters for future uplighting etc. Even in the wife's closet so she can steam and iron in there. Can't have too many - and they are about as cheap as a good extension cord when installed before the drywall. Forgot under the eves on the front of the house to hang christmas lights!

I can think of no reason to install a receptacle in a drawer except to be able to leave a hair dryer plugged in full time and that would be very unwise.

Underwriters Laboratories, the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the tag on the hairdryer advise you to unplug a hand-held hairdryer when not in use. If you intend to unplug the hairdryer, there is little or no advantage in having the receptacle in a drawer.

A quick FYI

250 feet of 12/2 wire is under $50 now. Box, receptacle, and cover total less than $3. Adding outlets is very inexpensive from a materials point of view.

Are you assuming the owner installs it? I think you meant 100 ft of wire and a low grade receptacle. Never use the cheapest electrical devices.

The cost per receptacle installed by an electrician should be between $200 and $300.

JDS, I don't know where you are in the country but for a residential house I only charge $90 per receptacle opening. This is if I'm doing the whole house, adding one or two after rough in is a different price. I live in central Washington. Also dant was right, Home Depot has 12/2 romex for $47 per 250 feet. I can't by romex at the parts house cheaper then home depot, fyi.

JDS, I don't know where you are in the country but for a residential house I only charge $90 per receptacle opening.

Yeah, I've been told "about $100 per receptacle", but this meant wiring a new house -- not adding one outlet to an existing house. At that price, it's not a budget breaker, but putting in an extra few in every room "just because" would be a wasteful expenditure.

And obviously some receptacles will cost more than others: The grounded outlet near your bathroom sink will cost a little more than the ones around the edge of your bedroom. The single outlet in your attic will cost more than the couple sets placed close together for your great room TV area or your computer desk. I assume that the new outlets that include USBs run a little more than standard units. So you should expect some slight variation.

The goal shouldn't be to over-wire or flood the house with electrical outlets; rather, the goal should be to plan carefully and "right-size" your electrical needs.

Knowing the material costs helps you to decide if the labor is reasonable. To mrspete's point, not all locations will be the same, but an outlet in a common circuit run takes only a few minutes. 15 tops.

$100 per outlet? I'm in the wrong business.

bznbaker-

I agree. Maybe 15 minutes per outlet with open walls = $3200/day (less $200 max for wire and receptacles). I'd come out of retirement for that... :-)

geeeez yal are worrying me... 14100 for outlets..at 100 each :////

The price per receptacle should include material, labor, OH&P and the GC's markup. It doesn't all go to the installer.