What are you trying to do?

Nothing you have explained makes any sense.

Please provide more detail.

Sorry,
I'm poring concrete walls and wondering if these walls, [forms] will hold the concrete? As you see in picture, there is another wooden form on other side and I'm tying both together with 3/8" threaded rod.

Still not clear what you are doing.

Please explain.

What you show makes no sense whatsoever.

The bolts holding the osb to the 2x2's you could have simply fastened them with screws similar to a framed wall. The middle bolted wouldn't be a bad idea at this point. Your main concern is going to be keeping the forms in place at the base to prevent "blow out". You will want to run a ribbon,(2x4) along the base screwed to the 2x2's and run kickers to the ribbon every 24" and staked. To keep the top in tact, you can run kickers every 24" at a 45 degree angle back to grade and stake. You are going to want to string line along the top to get it straight. You can do that by adjusting the kickers in or out whatever is needed. If you are pouring a stem wall with forms both sides, you will want to use "form ties" or "spreaders" to keep the two forms together and intact. More detail of your project would be nice, you are more than likely going to need some re-bar in there as well dependent on what you are doing. Splain please!

Thank you all!
This might explain it a bit better, picture here showing the inside of form, [right hand side] what I wanted to know if two threaded rods into the 2x4, [first picture] are enough to hold the form together without spreading. Sierra thinks another in the middle wouldn't be bad. The 2x4 I have attached to the osb with 2 or 3 drywall
screws, just to keep them in place for drilling through both walls and holing with 3/8 threaded rods. I don't get the spreader part.

I get it now. I thought you simply had the 2x's attached to the osb with the nuts and bolts. As you explained, they are threaded rods form to form. Those are your spreaders,( what we call them out here). I would go ahead with the middle and overkill outside bracing by way of kickers to prevent blowout. On something like this, you want to make sure you wont have blowout because it can interrupt the project big time making a costly mess, so overkill bracing is worth the time and effort. Are you having this inspected?

Concrete forms are usually constructed with horizontal and vertical reinforcing. Your design only has vertical 2x4s which is weak. They also look oriented weakly (it is stronger to drill the other face of the stud for the rods).
Using OSB is also problematic. Concrete forming panels are usually plywood with an overlay that protects the wood from the concrete. You will likely experience pillowing and release problems.
The pressure on the lower rods will be high and may damage the stud and washer. I don't think it'll collapse but it may shift.

osb is fine for a one time use project. You wouldn't want to re-use it in any event and a light oiling before the pour over the surface of the osb will allow easy release. Horizontal ribbons with kickers every 24", (minimum is every 48" out here), will give the op the horizontal/vertical ribbing. form ties would have been better than the threaded rods, but they should be fine, imo.

How are you tying the footer to the wall?

Typical, at least out here, is a form similar to a framed wall with a top & bottom horizontal plate with vertical studs. A good on one side exterior plywood, typically 3/4" is the facing of the form. To salvage yours without tearing it out and starting over, you can run horizontal blocking in between your 2x's top and botom, run a horizontal ribbon across those,( top & bottom), and kicker off of that. They usually kicker every 48", not more than that, but I would go every 24" making sure the bottom is anchored and not going to shift or blow out on you. Same with the top. It doesn't appear tall enough to worry about the middle, but if you feel it needs it, go for it. Better to go overkill on a project like this.

I would place the rebar in the middle of the form, not on the edge. As it is, it looks like it may show at the edge of the wall.

You can tie the vertical 3/8" rebar into the footing by drilling a 5/8" hole, ( carbide masonry bit), in the footers and epoxying the rebar in. In the pic, it looks like the concrete is landing on top of some sort of insulation barrier,( blue material ) ?
On second thought, do you even have footings?

Thank you all!
Yes...as said in my first post, this wall is on top of footing, around 14 x 14" and two double rows of 5/8" rebars, [overkill] also rebars sticking out to tie into the wall. The rebars in the wall are in the middle.

Think this form is getting close for poring...
Yes, I will use these forms only one's, smooth side in, then I use it for a shed.

A foundation contractor or rented forms would probably have saved you time and money especially if a form fails. Be sure to have enough helpers, shovels, and crowbars available for the pour.

The need for vertical rebar should be determined by the difference in height between the interior and exterior grades and, in extreme cases, the nature of the soil. The photos seem to show stable soil but the forms don't appear to reach grade. Will there be a second lift?

Often only a pair of horizontal bars top and bottom are needed to reduce shrinkage cracking but as a practical matter vertical bars are often needed to support the horizontal ones. If you are only placing bars in one plane they would be more effective 1 1/2" to 2" from the exposed side.

The use of standard breakaway wall form ties not only provides a consistent wall width but allows the ties to be snapped off beyond the face of the wall. Cutting off the threaded rods will be unnecessary work and they might provide a path for water penetration.

How tall and thick will the final wall be and what are the heights of the adjacent grades?

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: wall tie installation

Looks good. I would still get some blocking inbetween the 2x's at least at the top to prevent pillowing. Also, if you are going to have "j" bolts is to make saddles out of plywood that straddle the top of the form and the bonus is that they hold the foundation,( J ) bolt in place both height and centered. The plywood only needs to be an inch in width. You can use these in the link, but for a one time pour, I would fabricate out of ply.

Here is a link that might be useful: anchor mate

Thank you all!
>>Be sure to have enough helpers, shovels, and crowbars available for the pour. You sure don't sound too confident with my forms.

I have seriously considered contractors and talked to some,.. all too
busy at this time of the year,.. I don't want a winter job done.
Also, think I can do just as good or even better doing it myself. I don't
think any contractors would have bent these rebars in corners as I did, including building a meticulous footing with two double rows of rebars.

>> Cutting off the threaded rods will be unnecessary work and they might provide a path for water penetration. Ties are metal too.
I can break the rods off...it will cause a bit of concrete break dimple which I fill with silicone or cement. IMO, plated threaded rod adheres better to concrete then flat steel.

>>How tall and thick will the final wall be and what are the heights of the adjacent grades? Total height will be about 8 to 9 feet.
There will be a half prefab tank, [septic] 4" rim, going on top of the 8" inch wall [between rebars]. The rest of tank is about 3" thick with support beams, rated for 4 feet of dirt on top. The top of the tank will be about level with the upper grade, floor will be about level with lower grade.

Sierra,
Your post gives me confident...good hint on the top of forms, I will
re-think the between support.
J bolts...not sure what you mean by that, I have rebars coming up
from the footing. Also, what's anchor mate???

Planing the pour on Thursday, I'll have the Concrete Guy comeing
for a look before the pour, also the pump Guy, naturally, at the end
of the day it is my shoulder what hurts if the forms fail.

Konrad

"J" bolts are bolts embedded in the concrete the stick up about 2" to accept a sill plate for a framed wall. They are typically 5/8" in diameter and typically 12" in length unless it calls out for larger diameter and length. It fastens the framed wall to the foundation. The spacing varies dependent on the area and load/lift concerns and now days you are seeing holdowns and ties being used inconjunction with them. Anchor mate is a "clamp" of sorts that is temporarily attached to the top of the form board and simply holds the "j" bolt centered and in place for the pour. Not always necessary to use them, you can place the bolts during the pour, they are just convienent. I usually make some up using strips of plywood ripped down to an inch or inch and a half. Doesn,t sound like you need "j" bolts for your project. Best of luck and address any weak spots that you might feel need extra bracing to prevent blowout. Hopefully the pump guy has enough experience to advise you on the forms. If they have enough time and understanding of what they are doing, they'll know if your form work needs extra attention. Your picture is great, but it's not the same as being there, so I would get their take on it. Im sure if you run it by them, they have experienced projects where blow out happened, so ask for their advise.

Thank you Sierra!
The Pump Guy,.. actually somebody from their form crew came over today and was surprised how good it is without more bracing. He said, they would put only half amount of rebars in there. When he left, I still put up a couple more wall bracing to make sure the wall doesn't move.
Hopefully tomorrow doesn't rain and I can get this over with,...this year
project with the tank on top, next year will be finishing the rest.
When it rains the dirt road will be too slick getting in.
I'll be vibrating the concrete, [back pack gas motor, I don't have power out there], my wife is filling it, ..or the other way around, my neighbor I asked for a stand by if...??
.....not too many people on hand when form fails...

>>Be sure to have enough helpers, shovels, and crowbars available for the pour. I still don't know what the crowbars are for......except for later, takeing
form apart.

Oh...talking about taking form off, how many day's should I wait?
The pump guy was saying, since I did such a nice job, he would leave
the inside form on. I was thinking about this before but wasn't sure
if it was a good idea with the moister in there? Also, the glue what these OBS board are made of could be toxic? Any idea? Hm..there are toxic free white paint to seal it off?...I'll give me better light in there too. It sure would look nice and would last my lifetime.

The 3/8" threaded rods inside the root cellar come handy for hanging up shelf's onto the wall...I'm glad I didn't use ties.

Great job! Go easy with the vibrator, no need to panic as the vibrator is the leading cuase of blow out typically on a stem wall pour. Just go slow and careful. Four people would be ideal if the pump guy isn't there to help work the hose. Two on the hose, one working the vibrator, and one filling where the vibtrating settles the crete,(topping off), and rough troweling the top, (screeding).

You can use a good oil based primer on the osb followed by an acrylic latex top coat,( two top coats are ideal). OSB isn't a good cladding for exterior use if it's going to be exposed to the elements. If it's going to be concealed, it should be fine but keep it coated if there is going to be high humidity. It has exterior grade glues holding it, as far as toxicity, I cant say one way or the other, but the primer/top coats should eliviate that. If you can, seal the edges and saw cuts as well. I would leave the forms on there for at least a good week and periodically pour some water on top while the forms are in place after the second day or so and after stripping the forms, squirt the stem walls down with a good spraying periodically. It slows the curing process and keeps it from drying out too fast and can help reduce cracking. If the weight you are planning on putting on it is sustantial,(tank?), I would let it sit for around three weeks or so. Best of luck on the project and pour!

Thank you Sierra!
It went as expected,... smooth all the way, I had my nigbour on the hose, me on the vibrator, the pump guy explained pretty good how to go about it,...not too much as you said Sierra...couple of pictures.

Konrad

SWEET! Keep us posted on the rest of the project. Best of luck!

Interesting. When we built a basement here in North Dakota, just 25 miles below the Canadian border, we used styrofoam with re-bar inside then cement fill. Until we did that, not many (very few) had used that method, but coming from CA and my hubby in the building trades, insisted on rebar every so many feet. Then it tied into the cement floor. We have sump pumps, also rock around to edge of the house and drain tiles, as we have a high water table. Basement is over 8 years old, no leaks so far, and stays around 55-60 year around and hold up a duplex (double house) without a problem

Thank you all!
Out of curiosity,...since I wanted this build done by a contractor up
to this stage, how much would I be looking at?
Marie,
I wish mine would be leaking,...I need all the moisture I can get, water table here is very, very low, I don't think I will have water coming up, probably have to soak the ground one's in a while.

"Total height will be about 8 to 9 feet.
There will be a half prefab tank, [septic] 4" rim, going on top of the 8" inch wall [between rebars]. The rest of tank is about 3" thick with support beams, rated for 4 feet of dirt on top. The top of the tank will be about level with the upper grade, floor will be about level with lower grade. "

I still don't understand the purpose of this wall. If it is only 4 ft high the rebars would be unnecessary regardless of the load on the wall.

Are you talking about rebars on top of wall or inside?
I think inside, we have drastic temperature fluctuation up here...it helps
keeping the walls together for a long long time for many generations.
The top of the wall rebars you see now is to keep the tank from shifting...I'll have
them covered with mortar or concrete. The wall gives me 4 feet of height,
with the tank on top it gives me good height when standing in
there, not bumping my head too easily on the support beams.

Last night the tank was put on, the idea of leaving the inside form on
I scraped, figured I need every inch of space in there and I could
use those threaded rods protruding the wall to hold the upper forms up
for the mortar fill.

Turning over the tank,... inside view.

I'm glad...the worst is done, all went without a hitch...thanks to all of you!

Boy…time flew by and now in retirement and no honey bees with more time on hand…I’m finally finishing! I’ve added a extension (walk in) insulated the top half and protected with insulated tarp so no worries for damaging when back filling..
I’ll post some pictures later, I’m heaving trouble loading, haven’t been on this site for years.

Nope.

it is a root cellar.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2289598/insulating-a-root-cellar#n=3

A child of the '50s, I figured bomb shelter from the Russkies. There are less elaborate root cellar alternatives.

Agree..at least this one will outlast many generations.

Is a root cellar supposed to be wet inside? No damp/waterproofing, spray foam joints/air intake, no drain tile. I suppose direct and honest comments like mine is what kept the OP away for 10 years.

Lol..ground water keeps it damp..too damp isn’t good for some vegetables.
Insulation is good against fluctuations in temperature.
And fresh air is a good thing.

Your last picture almost looks like a temple entrance.

This structure is bad ass

How did the OSB hold up after the pour? Were you able to use it on the walls or did it absorbe too much water

They held up good for the pour..I was able to use some for other odd projects.