Would like to redo Ethan Allen kitchen table

13 years ago

When we moved to Atlanta during a heat wave the table finish cracked and we unpacked melted candles .
The table top had a glossy thick finish that stood up against water .
The gentleman who redid the finish applied a satin polyurethane .
I had questioned if the table was lacquered and he assured me it was not.
Many years have past along with several moves . The table top again needs to be refinished and I would like to DIY .
After reading how to redo table tops I wonder if this table top was originally lacquered.
I plan on stripping the top, lightly sanding it to remove the scratches and then apply lacquer.
Do I need to stain it before applying lacquer?
I have read spraying the lacquer would be better but I do not want to purchase the spray equipment . I do own an air compressor.
may I just use the deft spray can product?
can I brush lacquer using a helpful technique?
I realize that a good google would answer some of my questions .
I am confused over what I am reading.
do you recommend a better product than deft.
I paid 500 dollars 20 years ago to repair the cracked table top. I prefer to unscrew the top from the trestle and DIY .

I had the hardwood floors refinished last year . After seeing this process I do know to buy duraseal versus another product. I know nothing about lacquer. Would buying from Home Depot be acceptable or do I need to shop at a specific store?

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Comments (3)

LuAnn_in_PA
13 years ago
I know nothing about lacquer either.
When I redid my table tops, I used polyurethane (and not the water based stuff!). Cost me about $20 total.

Hopefully someone will chime in about lacquer....
bobismyuncle
13 years ago
Deft lacquer in the can is not going to build up quick enough for you. Deft (and Watco) make a brushing lacquer in a can. Get a good brush and go to it.

Lacquer has a few things going for it -- easy to repair and top coat. In a production environment, it's easy to spray and dries quickly. You can also "rub it out" to remove light scratches or defects. But it's not quite a durable as a varnish.

No, you don't need to stain it if you are happy with the natural color.

A "better" product is always trading off one characteristic (ease of application, ease of repair, hardness, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, appearance, skill level required, tools required, time required, cost) for another. Waterlox original would be a good option to look at. It's tough, durable, water resistant, but a bit more expensive and has a darker amber tone to it (not what you want if you want a light maple finish). It's brushable or wipe-on if thinned.
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chickadee4
Original Author
13 years ago
Thank you for both posting your advice.
I could not sleep the other night so I posted my questions and then went googling .
Having already spent money repairing the table once I would prefer to give a shot at it . I figured if I get over my head I can always call in an expert.

A few articles reference polyurethane and lacquer interchangeably. Have no idea if this in reference to the different resins. All I know is I need to be patient and do this without the husband's knowledge. He flips out when he sees what I do but is happy after seeing how much money I saved him.

I figure to do a leaf first before going with any stain. I also believe as soon as I take off the finish I can see if it was stained or not.

Thanks for your help