I was wondering the same thing. I used Bona for the first time and was surprised at how long it took to dry even though I only used a couple of squirts in each section. And it seemed sticky, too, until it dried which was much longer than one minute. But I don't understand why would you want to put Bona into the Shark. The point of steam is that no chemicals are needed; also, you don't know how the Bona product would react with heat. Maybe I'm not following, but I hope someone will respond to your initial question.

I am assuming there must be some ingredient that is GOOD for the wood in Bona but could be wrong.

One gets the impression that water is the great evil for wood, but Bona is the best option on the market. Really, how are they any different? They are both liquid. So it must be the ingredients, right?

But steam cleaners are so easy to use compared to what I have to do now. I spot clean for 2 months or so, but we have so much daily activity in our house (we are grand central station for the neighborhood) that it ends up needing a good, thorough cleaning. And that involves being on my hands and knees and a good hour of scrubbing. It's so labor intensive that I put on work-out clothes and am dripping in sweat afterward and plan to shower after it's done.

And I don't see any other good methods - mops soak the floor and don't even pick up the dirt or clean the spots.

So if I can combine the easiest, most thorough method (steam cleaner) with something that's touted as safe and good (Bona) and avoids the big evil (water) - that seems like a win/win.

A good steam cleaner that gets hot enough -- and I don't think Shark is one of them -- is sufficient to clean and sanitize. A cleaning product isn't needed. But that doesn't answer your original question. Maybe someone else will chime in.

I think that if you move fast you will not cause damage. BUT I couldn't write that out on my product if I were "Shark Steam" company. Therefore go ahead and run your own experiments.

Are you in a dry climate? Does relative humidity vary by season? Etc.

For sure if you leave it running a long time on a floor you shall cause the wood to absorb moisture more than otherwise. Some people will do this and not care a whit. Some people will do this ALL the time, feeling they don't care a whit, and then get upset when they find out the floor has deteriorated to a great extent, far more than they might consider to be "right'.

I have seen no harm from them. The admonition about water is that you do not use too much or leave it heavy on the floor, all things in moderation.
Over use of machines like the "Shark" especially on rotary veneered products can lead to finish discoloration , rough surface texture and even flaking of the finish. Just use it sensibly, wiping up any excess water not collected with a soft towel.

My wife used to clean our oak wood floors with one of those steam moppers and all the varnish has come off. They were just redone when we bought (not sure which poly they used), so only lasted 2-3 years with the steam mopper. Now I have to refinsish the floors :( I am doing pure tongue oil this time.

I don't think it's so much the amount of water alone but more of the heat & water together. Heat (extremely hot if it's steam) expands the wood & the water is being put into the expanded wood so over time it would probably ruin the floors.
I want a steam mop so bad too but since my floors are brand spanking new I'll stick to my bona for the time being.

Finish lift and checking splits in veneered products.

"One gets the impression that water is the great evil for wood,..."

Wood absorbs and release water vapor ALL the time.

Forever.

It never stops with ANY practical finish.

As the moisture content of the wood varies its size and shape varies.

This puts a real premium on finishes used on wood.

Make the finish to brittle and it will quickly flake off as the wood moves and thet finish cannot stretch and flex.

Make it to soft and it will fail to protect the wood and collect dirt.

You can see how much movement occurs in a wood strip floor by how the gaps between adjacent strips open and close throughout the year as the overall humidity varies.

A 3 inch strip might move 1/16 of an inch.
And the finish must move the same amount.

On a floor with an intact finish cleaning with a damp mop and then quickly drying is not likely7 to have a very large effect.

On a floor with a less than perfect finish more moisture is going to be introduced to the wood and absorbed.

As the water vapor then moves back out of the wood it can result in even more finish damage.

The manufacturers are all scarred to death of saying any water is acceptable for cleaning a hardwood floor.

Someone will saturate the floor using a garden hose, then barely mop. The water will sit for hours. When the floor warps and the finish lifts they will try to make a damage claim.

"You said I could use water."

Common sense is gone.

A quick damp (not wet) mopping is unlikely to hurt much, even if most of the finish is worn away.

I just saw a glowing recommendation on the cleaning forum for a Haan steam mop so I came here to find out if I could use it for my new oak floors.

I'm wondering if it's not so much the water as the heat that's the problem? Because, according to reviews, it dries nearly instantly. But it makes sense that the super hot steam would soften (and possibly ruin) the finish.

I don't like using chemicals to clean so I'd love it if I could use steam. And not have to scrub floors on my hands and knees like an eighteenth century washer woman. :(

Here is a link that might be useful: Haan steam mop

"And not have to scrub floors on my hands and knees like an eighteenth century washer woman."

So mop it with a barely damp mop to remove surface dirt.

If you do decide to get a steamer, you can NOT put the Bona solution into it, you'll ruin the steamer. Water only.

I used a steam mop (Shark)twice on my polyeurothened hardwood floors and the steam has taken the shine out of the floor- I am now looking into what I have to do to get the shine back on it.

deb

"I am now looking into what I have to do to get the shine back on it. "

Screen the floor and apply another coat of poly.

Callie
If your floors had wax on them that would explain the result you got. Just re wax the floor. If "Orange Glow" or "Bona Polish" were used previous to steam cleaning the same issue may be the result. An ammonia and water solution ~50/50 will get that off the floor. Do a small area scrubbing gently not letting the mix flood the floor. Then wipe off quickly and rinse with a good floor cleaner IE Woodwise, Bona, Bruce, Liquid Pledge, or any other genital wood floor cleaner. DO NOT use any product that mentions renewing the luster but only that cleans!

She may have floors that have glued joints. We have laminate floors with glued joints which were installed about 14 years ago and they can be steam cleaned with no problem. They are the kind that have no beveled edge,so the edges completely meet. However, we also have another brand of laminate flooring in other parts of the house that aren't glued and it can not be steam cleaned. In fact, our housekeeper forgot that and it caused a little welting of the edge of one of the boards. My understanding is that now days people don't glue them anymore, but I suppose if you can find glue-required flooring that would be the way to go if you want to be able to steam clean.I would check with the manufacturer first though to make sure it can take steam.

Woodfloorpro- You must be really expensive to hire if you use "genital wood floor cleaners"...probably have a hard time getting new employees to clean floors too!

Now I understand the phrase "getting a woody" though!

(Ok...I really do have the mind of a 13 yr old boy! Dog farts make me laugh too.)

I've used a Shark steam cleaner for the last two-and-a-half years on my hardwood floors.... upstairs is finished hardwood and downstairs isn't finished Hardwood and let me tell you it does no damage. I've taken up stickers, gum, and other things that my two toddlers have put on the floors, and no damage at all! I hate the smell so I go over it with a swifter wet pad... When I used mops if I let it sit on the floor wet within a day it would warp the wood, this does not. I can mop and go!

I just want to know if I can throw down some chemicals while I steam clean... So I don't have to go over my whole house 2x because of the smell lol. If it smells like bleach or pinesol u know its clean, but this unfortunate does not smell like that lol

Oh even on floors glued together I use my steamer... Even in the kitchen where each board is supposed to join like a puzzle (some of them are not fit properly) I use the steamer... No problems yet this is what my hardwood floors look like (and yes I have to mop right now lol)

Lol

Your relative's hardwood floors were more than likely installed and finished professionally. If so, that would mean they are completely sealed and protected from the steam and water from her mop. If you use steam or water on unsealed floors,poorly sealed floors or old worn out floors that haven't been refinished in decades then you will have a problem. The finish in well maintained hardwood floors isn't just applied to make them look great, it's also there to keep the wood dry. Wood acts like a sponge and will swell when it comes in contact with water. I live in a rental and the building is probably 1920's era, I don't believe the floors have been refinished for a very long time so I just sweep them and use my steam mop unplugged. Also I ring the mop pad out so it's just damp and not dripping wet. So, if you have really nice hardwood floors that have been maintained and taken care of go ahead and do as your relative does and use your steam mop.

Finish will slow the transmission of moisture to the wood, but does not prevent it. It does not take a glass with condensation long to raise the grain and pop the finish on a nicely finished table.

Keeping that in mind, because wood shrinks and swells with seasonal changes, there will be gaps at all the joints, no matter if it was site finished or not. The moisture from the hot steam forced into the gaps, however big or small they may be, will eventually lift the finish at the edges of the individual boards. It will start randomly, and increase if continually used as a cleaning schedule.

I used a Shark steam mop for 6 years on mine with no problems. I now use the 360 spin mop. It's much easier, no cord to get in the way and it cleans the grout in my tiled floors much better than the steam mop.

floorguy beat me to it. Steam mops + hardwood = bad. Steam mop + hardwood = voided warranty.

And yes...steam mops are great for things like ceramic/porcelain/stone tiles, concrete, metal and glass. That's it.

I've used a steam mop on mine for 8 years with zero problems.

I have used a shark mop in an older apartment with not so nice hardwood floors. I also tend to add a capful of pinesol into the shark cleaner. The floor weren't disastrous, but I wouldn't call them great shape either. Additionally I have used various products that most people would be shocked. And I have used a large amount of water on them. When things were starting to look dull I would use a quick shine on them. Despite the fact that I was doing it "all wrong" my landlord was always happy with the way my floors looked. All this being said, I also have 5 cats and I would rather have to redo my floors more often if the trade off is knowing I have a clean floor. (I am getting ready to redo the floors on a house that I am buying) and will at the very least use a steam mop on my floors then too. DISCLAIMER: just because I said this is the way I do it does not mean it won't have an effect. Let me add that I cleaned my brothers house with a steam mop as well that he had redone with no I'll effects.