Ok, further information on this job. The least expensive service call and part deal was $275. That is about 1/3 the price of the machine...for a piece of rubber!

I found one online for $29 + shipping.

At any rate. I explored the diagrams and had to remove the top panel to get at the fasteners for the control panel. I was able to take off top panel, bottom panel, control panel and door panel in that order. The boot is attached to the door panel by a spring loaded wire clamp. This was easily removed. The boot was still attached to the drum assy. and was held in place with a wire clamp with a screw to tighten/loosen. This is easily removed. The drum counter weight was in the way of the screw so I had to remove the counterweight (4) 1/2" nuts. I am waiting on the new boot, but by the look of things, it will be easy to replace. The part price and labor on this job if it were done by a professional is way out of whack for a piece or rubber and a 1 hour job.

I looked all over for information on this job and could not find, so I thought I'd document here....after saving about $250.

Thanks for the info. Where did you get your parts?

Ebay. Do a search on the part #.

Some online shops also had it for 1/2 the listed price at GE.

UPDATE:
I was able to replace this boot myself with no problem. The new boot and wire clamp was easily attached to the drum assembly before replacing all the panels. Once the door panel is on a spring loaded wire clamp needs to be put on the door hole rim. If there is a challenging part of the job this may be it, but I have to stress this was not hard. The boot edge wraps and stays on the door panel opening for the door. The spring loaded wire clamp tends to want to jump off as you are attaching (about 3/4 of the way around). Installing the wire at the bottom of the circular door opening first, I was able to use my knees to hold each side of the opening (9 and 3 o'clock) on the way up (spring at 12 o'clock position). Form ther it is just a simple matter of pulling the wire clamp up while spreading the spring a bit. It snaps right on. I pretty happy i was able to do this myself and saye lots of money in the process.

Once you understand the assembly of the parts most new parts are easily installed. The only difficult area is the drivetrain of a washer. It can require knowledge to do the job properly. Things don't always work as you may think.

As to the cost of repairs. The technician expects to spend time for the repair and time to make sure the repair works. Time costs money. While the job is normally simple, how much time did you spend on the diagnosis and finding the part? This is added to the bill. The tech has to diagnose the problem just as you did. Sometimes the problem is caused by something else.

Thanks to the web my research was pretty simple. The fact that there are only diagrams and no clear instructions was part of it. When I go to a site that has car repair and modifications, there is usually step by step chilton like
instructions. The parts themselves usually include these.
I suppose there are manuals written that can be acquired.
I guess I just do not see how a rubber gasket should amount to almost 1/2 the price of a new machine. I understand that time is money. Despite the diagnosis many wanted to charge a fee just to come to look ($75), wait for a part ($100), then install labor ($100). This even after I mentioned I knew what the problem was (ie. a big rip in the boot which was obvious). Funny, they probably would have had me for $200.

Where do I get the part # for the boot?