Based on readings, miters can be a problem with expansion. The key is the joinery (biscuit, half-biscuit, pins, etc.) Humid areas may have problems with separation.

thanks mof3. Which joinery would be best?? Did your readings say?

Poor cabinetmaker.....I can't believe that I would actually question this. He will certainly stop taking my calls soon!

thanks

My impression -- as a non-designer -- is that there is a style difference: cope and stick (non-mitered) doors are more old-fashioned and simple, and mitered gives more of an upscale contemporary feel (yet still a traditional doorstyle). Where are the grooves you will be having? Routed along the inner or outer edges of the door?

I can't remember, are you going with inset doors after all? You need pal or somebody who knows better than I do to tell you for sure, but I think of cope and stick as being the usual with inset doors.

I'm sure you have already seen this but in case it helps you or someone else who is reading, I'm linking a page of door styles so you can see Shaker doors in both cope and stick and mitered on the same page. It's from Barker Door (not an endorsement, theirs was just handy).

I don't think you're crazy at all. Something like miters vs rectangles really does make a differece, especially for people who are going for a period look.

Here is a link that might be useful: Door styles

Sorry, I'm not sure if we have mitered or the upgrade or what. We just designed our doors and that was that, I never asked and I'm not even sure what the difference is.
If it helps, here's a close up of our doors- this is mid-install so they aren't straight yet.

If I understand correctly the initial bid is for this:
{{!gwi}}

The upgrade would be like this (only in a flat,recessed shaker, I couldn't find one)
{{!gwi}}

And another option is this:
{{!gwi}}

From what I have been told the black door is the cheapest to make because of those "seams": because of those, the join does not have to be perfect without any chips, so they can use stock with imperfect edges, since they are rounding the edges slightly.

Mitering does seem more modern: it wraps like a picture frame and there is no vertical "stripe" of grain if you are using as stained finish. I am not saying it looks better or worse, just different

The third is like the first with much crisper edges, thus more expensive than the first.

How strong the miter is on the second depends on the joinery. I think there is a join that looks mitered on the front and straight on the back, too...

Thanks, If you follow this link, and then scroll down to the door styles (p.13), You will see 10827 it's shown in a cherry wood with stain. We are doing a painted maple.

I'll call him tomorrow and ask. I just want to make sure I'm not "cheaping out" and getting something I shouldn't be doing.

I am doing full overlay, not inset.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dutchwood's pamphlet

Given that you're going painted, ask whether there is greater risk of paint cracking with mitered corners.

Also, are you doing that drawer style up top or a slab? Where would you put hardware on a narrow drawer like that?

Ah I misunderstood the grooves. I agree with Marcolo about the five-piece drawer head. I think at least narrow drawers would look better as a slab.

That door color and style is lovely but I don't like the mail slot look of the center of the drawer. If they could use a slab and still do the edges like shown, that would be wonderful!

yes, yes yes! The smaller drawers will not look like those. The larger drawers will, but the smaller ones will be more slab-like. I was only at the shop once, when I go back we will work out the details on those drawers. But I did think about the hardware too.

I'll ask if they are more prone to cracking.

thanks

Bee, do they have a phone that I can leave a message on? I would love to see a real sample of the color on that top kitchen in the brochure!

Thanks so much! Your new kitchen is going to be beautiful.....

Nancy

I have to ask.
You want Shaker style?
Shaker is extremely plan and utilitarian. It's Cope and Stick.

Once you add mitered corners, you're going to a whole 'nother level of design. It's really not Shaker anymore, but rather a Shaker style. There really isn't any need for mitered corners as far as strength. Plus, you have what seems to be Master Carpenters making your cabinets. I don't see your joinery being an issue on any level.

I have some mitered doors and yes, they do expand and contract in the dryness of my house. They're older (Community Forklift) so I don't think their joins are as strong as they once were.

On my Shaker doors in another room, I have old ones and brand new, unfinished ones. The older ones are as tight and clean looking as they ever were. One is sanded and I'm hard pressed to tell which are the new and which one is the older door. Which is totally cool.

I think you're on the right track with the drawers. Larger is lovely with the Shaker detail, but the smaller ones do resemble a mail slot. [LOL] I went through that myself.

I cannot wait to see your kitchen. I've been around a long time, but this is really the first time I've paid such close attention to something from the very beginning. So hurry up.

Hey. How did you handle your KD1? Did I miss that?

christine, I have not handled my KD1. I suppose he doesn't even notice that I didn't respond to his last estimate which is $10k more than DW's. And, DW's estimate includes a lot more things we wanted, glass doors, all wood drawers, silverware holders, etc..

I am letting my builder break the news to him. I really don't need his condescending attitude in my life anymore. In fact my dh and I realized we are finally excited about our kitchen again.

And yes this style isn't shaker. Shaker to me is just too plain. I want it simple but with a little something extra and I think those grooves in the door give it that. I will not be doing a glaze, so the grooves will just be a subtle detail that catches the light. I'm not trying to highlight them.

Nancy--there is a phone number on the brochure that you can call. Scroll down to the end. Most likely you will reach either Darryl or Jason directly. Unless they are out doing an install, in which case you can leave a message.

Bee

Bee

I have mitered in my bathroom which we did 5 years ago and cope and stick in the kitchen.

No issues with the miter and depending on the door style the 45 degree lines looks like a photo frame. See what you think when you go back to DW.

I think I was told that miter may be an issue for inset doors but no issue with overlay.

Did you call today and find out anything bee?

It sounds like you have a beautiful vision.

I admit to being very fond of how the how mitered corners come together with wonderful, subtle patterns.
When you shop at Community Forklift and are extremely anal, PLUS, have over 200 linear feet of cabinetry?
Matching doors for that many cabinets are had to come by. :)

I think not contacting KD1 is a fabulous thing. You can so move past that horse hooey and continue your excitement. I know I'm with you and hanging on every word!

Christine

Bee, I love the slotted drawers so much and I love the door style you chose! Which white paint are you using this time? I am so glad you are going to use this new kitchen designer who is so talented from his brochure. Thanks for sharing.

Bee, thanks, I missed it because I was MESMERIZED by those cabinets in that brochure! I really like dealing with the Amish brothers who make my harness, so I think you will be treated right by DW.