Building codes are revised on a three-year cycle. As such, they tend to lag the state-of-the art of building science knowledge. While venting of a range may not be specifically mandated by a particular current building code, it is nevertheless a good idea because it helps to maintain indoor air quality-- which the current residential building code doesn't address, at least in Virginia. I'm hopeful that future building codes will address indoor air quality. I do not support Fred S.'s assertion that range hood exhaust fans are used to meet ventilation requirements to maintain a healthy indoor air quality, in particular because range hoods are operated sporadically and ventilation systems should be designed to operate either continuously or at established time intervals. While range hoods may not be required by codes in some states, building science certainly supports they are important to maintain indoor air quality by ventilating moisture, odors, and products of combustion (for gas fired appliances.) Range hoods for high capacity ranges and cooktops have high exhaust rates and will require make-up air to avoid depressurizing a home, particularly for "tight" home construction. I can't speak to code requirements other than in the Commonwealth of Virginia. With respect to range hoods, the 2012 Virginia Residential Code requires that: "M1503.4 Makeup air required. Exhaust hood systems capable of exhausting more than 400 cubic feet per minute (0.19 m3/s) shall be provided with makeup air at a rate approximately equal to the exhaust air rate in excess of 400 cubic feet per minute (0.19 m3/s) Such makeup air systems shall be equipped with a means of closure and shall be automatically controlled to start and operate simultaneously with the exhaust system. (Fred S. your claim that there is no allowance in the code to ignore the first 400 cfm is patently false, at least in Virginia. And no, the size of a duct supplying makeup air to meet the code requirements would not be astronomical; the diameter of the duct would be similar to a duct on the supply side of a remote blower--typically about 10" in diameter.) I am not aware of any requirement in the Virginia Residential Code nor any appliance manufacturer's specification that specifies the distance between a make-up air source and range hood. Broan's recommendations for our climate zone is that make-up air be no more than 25% of the capacity of the total air handler flow if introduced into the home's HVAC return air ductwork. Consumers who are interested in how to provide make-up air would be well served to consult a guide published by a manufacturer of make-up air damper systems such as Broan: http://www.bestrangehoods.com/PDF/Catalogs/BEST_Make-Up_Air_Damper_Application_Guide.pdf

In our former house in Seattle area, we used a ceiling fan to cool family room and kitchen (open area). Also we had a spa and didn't heat the water so we could use that to cool off. Now is our new home, we have A/C. Don't know how much it will be used - we get a breeze from the slough (river) every day so house should keep cool. Also don't get too many really hot days. Also we don't have the humidity that rest of USA has.

The estimate contains a clause which states the following: "Any alteration or deviation from above specifications involving extra costs will be executed only upon written orders, and will become an extra charge over and above the estimate." I received nothing in writing from him making me aware of extra charges, and he did not have so much as have a discussion with me regarding any additional costs, so the bill was a big surprise. I've had no other contractors spring extra charges on me out of the blue without so much as a discussion about it, and I've hired more than seven contractors over the course of this project. At this stage, I've had to involve the local police to facilitate the return of my key, and I have filed a BBB complaint and a complaint with the state consumer protection agency, since this is a bait and switch tactic, followed by intimidation tactics (keeping my house key, sending harassing emails) in an attempt to extort payment. In one of his emails, he said he left work unfinished because he'd not received any money, but upfront payment was not requested, and no invoices were sent, other than the final billing. To be clear, my attempts to pay him began within two weeks of him "completing" the job, so there is not a past due situation going on here. Since encountering these issues, I have discovered (this is a small town, mind), that many others have had trouble with him. I am optimistic the BBB can bring some resolution, but if he wants to sue me, that's fine, I have a counter suit already prepared, since he left my system improperly installed, which could have resulted in ruining my boiler. He's been sent payment via certified mail, so if he cashes that check this issue will be closed. At this point I suppose I have to just wait and see.

You can work like crazy and you will get rid of 95-98% of the odor. But, on a very humid day or after the house has been closed up for a few days, the odor will still be there. You have to clean every surface as best as you can then seal it. Every single surface, top of the window and door casings, top and bottom of the doors and the cabinets, hinges, light fixtures, exhaust fans, register covers, air return grates, etc. Then, plan on caulking everywhere you can't paint - especially trim work. Plan on buying shellac primer by the gallon and using it everywhere. Houses with bad odors are rarely priced low enough to be a real bargain when you figure all the work and expense of dealing with the problem.