There is no source of grease in the machine's mechanism that could get on the clothes. It has no transmission.

Do the stains come out readily if the items are washed again?

Do you use liquid fabric softener?

There could be some residue / scrud build-up under the agitator ... but the clothes can't get in direct contact with that area. (Scrud is waxy/oily residue from detergent and softener that may occur particularly if washing is done more often in cold water than warm or hot.)

There could also be residue under the tub ring, but again the clothes can't get in direct contact with that area under normal circumstances.

It's possible some residue under the agitator and basket is breaking loose due to water surges during the agitation process and depositing on the clothes.

Have you removed the agitator for a look beneath it, and at the drive shaft and basket hub? Pop off the softener dispenser, reach down into the agitator and unscrew the wing-nut. The agitator then lifts off. When replacing it, make sure it's properly aligned on the splined drive shaft and tighten the wing-nut snugly but NOT overly tight. If you see evidence of build-up, run the cleaning cycle. See your instruction manual for details on how to do that, or post here for further instructions. Instead of detergent for the cleaning cycle, use a full 8 oz. cup (or even two cups) of a powdered DISHWASHER detergent that contains ENZYMES. When the cleaning cycle gets started and the machine has filled and agitated for a few mins, shut OFF the power and let it soak OVERNIGHT. Restart a Heavy wash cycle and let it run through. Run another cycle, without any detergent, to thoroughly rinse the machine.

Check is the problem recurs. If so, post back here for the next troubleshooting step.

Dadoes -

thanks for the response....

To answer your questions:
-- The stains came out after we washed the clothes/sheets again.
-- And no, we don't use liquid fabric softener.

I haven't had a chance to open up the agitator.....
I will do that this weekend.

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what I find.

Dadoes --

I finally got a chance to remove the agitator.
I didn't notice any build up or scrud under the agitator.

But I didn't notice two things:
1. When I shined my flashlight into the tube, I could see that there was still some water down below. Shouldn't the washer drain completely dry, leaving no standing water??
In the picture, the shiny glare in the middle of the picture is the water I am speaking of...

2. Like I said, I didn't see any buildup, but there was some dirt on the walls of the slots at the bottom of the washer.
Here is the dirt I am speaking of:

I am planning on doing a cleaning cycle (just gotta pick up some powdered dishwasher detergent). I looked through the owner's manual for the cleaning cycle instructions, but didn't see it......could you provide some help here.

Thanks for the help.

The water you see is normal. A small amount will remain in the pump sump, which is a recessed area in the bottom of the tub. From the orientation of your picture the water you see is at the right rear, which is where the sump is located.

The inside of your basket is nicely clean, but you could have some build-up of scrud/muck/sludge in the outer tub and on the outside of the basket. Run the cleaning cycle with either an ENZYME dishwasher detergent or a strong dose (at least a couple cups, if not the entire bottle) of LemiShine (available in the dishwasher detergent section at Wal-Mart or your local grocery) .. or separate cycles with both.

What is the typical cycle profile you use? Do you run a Hot or Warm/Hot wash on a regular basis, or always lower temperatures? Softener, or no? What kind of detergent and how much? Do you use Perm Press occasionally for a deep-fill warm wash?

To activate the cleaning cycle:
1. Turn the machine's power on.
2. Press and hold Favorite until it beeps twice and the light flashes.
3. Select Perm Press and Hot water temperature.
4. Press Favorite again to store the programming.
5. The Favorite button will now run a full-fill Hot wash. When running it, you should be able to modify the cycle parameters as usual. I'd add the Soak option. If it won't take Soak, then pause the machine or shut off the power for a couple hours after a few mins of agitation, then restart. Perm Press does a deep rinse by default, as I recall. (You may also be able to include modifiers with the programming if you wish.)
6. Note that you CAN wash clothes using this cycle. It's the only way to get a full-fill HOT wash on the GWL11.
7. If you had previously programmed settings on the Favorite button, you'll need to redo them after using the cleaning cycle ... unless you want to leave the cleaning cycle programming in place instead.

If the cleaning routine doesn't help, or you simply want to investigate further, it's very easy to remove the inner basket to get directly at the tub and give it hand-scrubbing.

Removing the inner basket:
1. Pull the machine away from the wall far enough to raise the top fully and rest it stably against the wall, or have an assistant on-hand.
2. It's a good idea to remove the water supply hoses from the machine, as the water valve is in the console and the hoses tend to interfere with raising the top completely up. You don't want to put undue pressure on them and crack the water valve.
3. You may also want to remove the machine's lid. Open it fully and it simply pulls straight upward off the hinges.
4. Carefully pry out the two lid bumpers in the machine's top and remove the two screws. Raise the top and lean it back against the wall, or have your assistant hold it open so you have some working room.

BE CAREFUL RAISING THE TOP so you don't break the out-of-balance sensor lever that protrudes down at the right rear from the console. Pull the tub forward as you raise the top to make room for the lever to clear. Likewise when setting the top back down, pull the tub forward so the lever clears it.

5. Unclip the bias spring from the left front tub support strut. Needle nose pliers may be helpful. Leave it attached to the tub ring.
6. Working around the perimeter of the tub, release the clips that hold the tub ring in place. Remove the tub ring.
7. Remove the agitator if you haven't already done so.
8. The basket now simply lifts up off the drive shaft and out of the tub. You DO NOT have to remove the three screws on the hub ... although it may help to do so if the basket seems stuck on the drive shaft.
9. Notice that you've removed the machine's inner basket with nothing more than a screw driver and a couple pairs of pliers (for the supply hoses and to grab the bias spring). :-)
10. Reverse all of the above to reassemble the machine.

I have a service manual for your machine. E-mail me through the Gardenweb member page if you'd like a copy.

I'm actually surprised that Micheal doesn't use fabric softener, otherwise that would be the prime suspect. The problem here is that these washers don't have seperate detergent dispensers, so instead, F&P recommends that you put detergent directly down the center of the agitator.

Normally this by itself wouldn't be a problem, but if you use the centrifugal fabric softener dispenser on top of the agitator, residual fabric softener can carry over inside the dispenser, and mix with the detergent on subsequent cycles, and when this happens the two react together to create a sticky black sludge that stays in the washer from cycle to cycle, and occasionly breaks loose and gets on the clothes, very much like the pictures. Dadoes called it Scrud, but it's the same thing. The solution is to give the internals of the washer a good cleaning like Dadoes says, and then make sure you rinse out the fabric softener dispenser after you use it.

However, this isn't the problem because Micheal doesn't use fabric softener. Other than this the only other thought that comes to mind is that maybe the sheets and towels are too big for the wash tub, and they aren't circulating properly in the water. This would have the effect of creating closed folds of fabric that can trap recirculated dirt. If this is the problem, a potential solution is to manually set the water level to its highest setting to try and get more clothes movement.

Oops, I overlooked his response about not using softener. That does explain why the basket interior and drive shaft are nicely clean! I'd suggest removing the basket for a direct look at the outer tub. It's not difficult, and will clear-up a lot of the uncertainty as to the source of the problem.

I agree - remove the inner tub so you can look at the outer tub. Just pop out the 2 oval plugs a near the front on each side (hinged top-cover removed) and remove the phillips screws. Then lift the top section up and release the clips in the back. You might need to have someone hold the top section. Then snap off the large ring from the outer tub and remove the agitator. The whole inner basket should now lift out. You can inspect for crud on the outer basket and remove any coins or debris stuck in the bottom. This is a good opportunity to scrub the outer tub too.

I think I may have figured out the problem here......

(I haven't done the cleaning cycle or removed any parts, other than the agitator.)

My wife was doing laundry the other day and realized the circumstances that causes the stains shown in the pictures above.

We have the washer draining into a laundry sink. That laundry sink is plumbed to a Liberty brand laundry drain pump. This pump has a float type switch. Apparently what is happening is this. For some reason (and this is the part that I can' figure out why it happens sometimes but not all the time) the float switch is getting stuck inside the pump. Then the water backs up in the laundry tub all the way up to the washer drain hose. The washer then senses something is wrong.....shuts down and then starts beeping.
then I go gently kick the pump, the float switch becomes un-stuck and the pump begins draining. But I think this is why the stains are on the clothes.....the dirt and whatever else doesn't drain out properly when the pump/tub backs up.
Ugh.

I called the pump company (Liberty pump) and they said I have to remove the cover of the pump to access the float switch. Then I would have to shorten the float switch wire so it wouldn't come in contact with the side of the pump housing wall. Ugh.
This would be a big pain because I'd have to try to remove all the plumbing to be able to open the pump housing cover.

I was annoyed with the company and said to the guy, "isn't this a design flaw?" He didn't really give a good answer. But needless to say, I looked on the Liberty pump website and now the new version of the pump I have has an access panel on the top of the pump housing for the float switch, thereby eliminating the need to remove the entire pump housing cover.
So I guess it was a design flaw after all?
http://www.libertypumps.com/product_display.asp?ID=91&MainCat=2&SubCat=5
The float switch access is the black panel on the top of the cover....

So, I guess I have found my problem. It wasn't the washer's fault after all. I still will do a cleaning cycle, just to clean whatever gunk and build-up may be in there.

I just wish I knew what causes the float switch to get stuck sometimes and not others......probably no good answer for that. My wife thinks seems to think it gets stuck when there are a lot of suds....i dunno.

thanks to everyone who tired to help me solve this problem.
I appreciate it.

If water is siphoning *into* the washer via the drain hose during the wash or rinse agitation periods (the washer's pump isn't running, so the water can get into the machine), it will sense that the water level is rising when it shouldn't be and trigger a flood-fault alarm (as if the water valve is not shutting off, etc.). Note this can also happen during the final spin, as the pump shuts off for several minutes then turns back on at the end. Water can't siphon in when the washer's pump runs, as it'd be forcing the water out of the drain hose.

Dadoes --

Ahhh.....That beeping we hear when the washer shuts down must be flood-fault alarm going off. I wasn't sure what it was...and there was nothing in the manual about it.

The beeping happens when the water level in the laundry sink rises to (and above) where the washer drain hose hangs over
the sink lip.....must be siphoning the dirty water back down the drain hose a bit and staining the clothes I guess.

thanks.

now i just gotta fix that pump float switch.....ugh.

Your instruction manual should have some rudimentary mention of fault codes. You can find more on the Tech Sheet that's hidden inside the machine's console. Remove the two screws at the back of the panel, flip it forward, you should find the sheet in a plastic bag. Or I can post a list of fault codes here.

Re Excellence smartdrive 6.5. Excessive scrud. While we have had scrud previously, we have recently moved to a new district, and hve noted an excessive build up of scrud. We have been through the recommended procedure, but thorough cleaning and continuous rewashes continue to loosen excessive scrud. We have put through a load of waste material, but continue to get considerable scrud being loosened. My wife does use softener, but we have never had such a stuborn problem. Whereto from here - any recommendation re ongoing treatment. We have noted that when the m/c changes from say wash to empty, and there is a momentarily bump, a large quantity of scrud is loosened at that time. Thanks for any assistance John Mitchell

Hello! got all the way to removing phillips screws (3) and ring it secured to tub. Can not pull basket off spline! Yes GWL 11. Try as I might it will not come off. What am I doing wrong or what do I need to do to get it off. I have a code 37 and am trying to get to pump. Ran test for pump and water in bootom of tube would not drain throught drain hose.

The trick about Fault 37 (Blocked Pump) is that the pump may not actually be the problem. Fault 37 is sensed simply by way of the water level not dropping when it should during a drain period. The machine does not directly monitor pump operation.

A faulty or clogged diverter valve can also be (and is more commonly) the cause. Lint, strings, paper, candy wrappers, bits of debris such as a stray dime or small screw can get into the diverter.

A clog in the tub outlet can, of course, also occur. The pump can be removed from beneath the tub, which gives some access to the tub outlet from beneath to check for debris.

However, there is a protective cover inside the tub with a couple small openings (to allow water through and help guard against larger objects and stray socks and such) that can get clogged. The only access to it is by removing the basket.

Regards to your stuck basket ... it's just stuck. The drive shaft probably has accumulation of mineral deposits and detergent scum, or even some rusting. Getting it loose is a matter of working at it. Maybe squirt a little Limeaway or CLR around the shaft to help loosen any debris. Suggest not letting it sit/soak for too long at a time without rinsing to avoid potential damage.

Dadoes- appears you have a handle on getting basket out. Keep trying. I will do that. Since you have the answers one more question. When I plugged washer power cord into wall socket all lights on console came on momentarily and then went out. When i pressed power botton on console the light immediatley to the left of the amber light for setting operation does not light? It only is coming on when I replug power cord into wall socket? This tied into the code 37 or something else.
I do think there is something clogging the pump or divert er valve that is is causing rinse problem. I'll let you know

The console lights flashing momentarily when the power cord is connected is normal, the electronics getting booted-up and running a sort of self-test.

Your details are not clear on which lights are and are not coming on when you press Power. No lights at all? Or all the typical lights (cycle choice, temp, water level, spin, etc.) do come on but none of the Wash Progress lights? Or just the first Wash Progress light is not on but the rest of them are on?

Sorry for wording. Just the first wash progress light is NOT ON. All the rest of them are on as you asked.
Any information would help I need to get into this tonight getting basket off shaft.

Dadoes- Well used lime away and a fine brass wire brush oh and lots of tugging but got basket out. Thanks
From there wiped up the water in tub and removed drain pump, spins free nothing trapped. Took the plastic cover inside tub that cover pump off and found really nothing, but cleaned inside well. Took two hoses of diverter valve and blew them out finding nothing. Blew down hose that sprays water in top of basket and it was clear. Blew thought clear water pressure hose and found no restriction. Do not know what next. Want to put power to drain pump but not sure how to go about it? And then there is qustion of first light in wash cycle not lit when I pressed power button on console. Any suggestions what next.? You have given me the best information and directions from anyone I contacted. You would not believe what the "experts" have told me.

The pump can be run in Diagnostics. It's 120v so can also be run by dismounting it and attaching a test cord.

Could be the diverter valve is just bad, stuck in recirculate mode which will prevent draining.

At this point don't be concerned about the Wash light. Test the pump and diverter first to check for a problem there.

Go ahead and reassemble the basket, agitator, and tub cover. Make sure you get the basket hub and the little cog inside together the right way, the cog should be a little loose inside the hub. You can attach them on the basket base before setting it onto the drive shaft. Don't overtighten the three hub screws so the screw holes in the plastic basket base don't get stripped-out.

Diagnostic diverter and pump test.
With power off, press/hold Wash Temp Down, then Power at the same time. Two beeps and diagnostic mode engages.
Press Delicate to turn on the diverter, which takes approx 2 mins to engage.
While waiting a couple mins, press Wash Temp Down to run in some cold water, up to approx the medium/low mark on the agitator.
When ready, press Regular cycle button to turn the pump on.
Water should come out of the recirculation hose at top of the tub, NONE from the drain hose.
Press Regular and Delicate to turn off the diverter and pump.
Wait 3+ minutes for the diverter to disengage.
Press Regular to run the pump again. Water should drain and NONE from the recirculation hose.

If water comes out of the recirculation port when it should be draining, the diverter is suspect. In that case, UNPLUG the power cord and wait 5+ minutes. Connect the cord and QUICKLY get in Diagnostics and run the pump. If it drains for a minute or so then switches to recirculation without Delicate turned on, the problem is likely a bad controller board that is keeping the diverter engaged continuously.

Dadoes- wow lots to read and comprehend. Just for information I was able to get some leads on to pump and tested. It runs fine. Blew out 10 yrs of dust and crud so it looks brand new. I will not be able to go throught your list of things to do until weekend. I really appreciate your time and knowledge you have spent on this.

In your instructions only press and release power button- DO NOT HOLD DOWN.
Press delicate button and release.

I'm never quite sure when I press button if I am to hold them down or release. Sorry for the dumb question.

Yes, to activate Diagnostics, press/hold Temp Down, then press Power, then release both buttons. Should get two beeps and some panel lights come on.

Regular for the pump, Delicate for the diverter, Temp Down to run cold water, Temp Up to run hot water work as on / off buttons for the functions. Press and release. The button light will turn on or off accordingly with the functions.

The diverter valve is operated by a wax motor. Basically a small cylinder filled with a thermal-sensitive wax compound, a small heating source at one end and a piston at the other end. The piston is linked to the valve flapper. Heating the wax makes it expand, which moves the piston to shift the valve. The piston has a spring which recompresses the wax when it cools and shifts the valve back. Takes 1 to 2 mins to heat and shift to recirculation position, 2 to 3 mins to cool and shift back to drain position. There's no indication on the panel when it shifts ... turn it on or off and wait the requisite time for it to shift, then turn the pump on to check the flow.

If the controller board is bad and keeping the valve powered continuously, unplugging the cord removes all power, allows the valve to cool and shift back to drain (assuming it's not physically jammed). It'll start heating up again soon as the cord is plugged in which is why you need to be quick to get the pump running before that happens.

dadoes- Well I think we found the problem. Followed your directions and when we found things not happening correctly pulled the plug waited 5 minutes and followed directions. Water started to drain and within a minute stopped and started to recirculate which you said would be sign of bad control module. So ordered new one on Amazon from Pandora's OEM appliance parts for $231.00.
Will be here Wednesday and will install. I'll let you know how washer works. You are highly recommended by me!!!!!

The new board may be slightly different than the original (factory substitution on replacement parts). It should include an instruction sheet covering the details. Be sure to set the Machine Size per the instructions, it won't work properly (if at all) until that's done.

dadoes- Thanks for information. Board is original new OEM same labels as current board.. You did mention one thing about machine size. Do you know what that is about?
GWL 11 is Large machine. Thanks

F&P toploaders on the NZ & Aus markets were/are sold in 3 capacity sizes, different basket diameters. A new/replacement board typically does not have a size set. All models on the U.S. market are the largest size but the board must still be set accordingly. Water levels, agitation profiles, and some other operational parameters won't be correct if the size setting is wrong.

With power off, press/hold Wash Temp Up, then Power at the same time. Four beeps. Hold light on spin speed indicates the correct (largest) size for GWL11. Press Spin Up button to set if it's not lit. Power to finish.

Do not know what more I could ask. Thank you very much.
Got confirmation motor control is brand new OEM and is in original packaging which should have the instructions for setting profile. I'll use your instructions.

If you would clarify "Hold light on spin indicates the correct (largest) size for GWL 11. If I understand if any light above wording "Spin Speed" other than HOLD is lite press the "SPIN UP" button until HOLD light is lite. At that point press "POWER" button to off. Program should be complete at this point? Thanks

Correct. Press Spin Up to select the largest machine size if the Hold light is not on.

Cold light (Temp Up) and Low light (Water Level Up) are the small and medium sizes.

Well module arrived and not what was in picture. Returning.
Will update once I hear back from seller. Hopefully a mix up and they can make good for an "error".

dadoes- going to find somewhere else to order board.
Question in what this company sent was a fuse package to be spliced into brown wire on pump connector in board. Reaso to slow burn in case of power surge which blows board? They say this is upgrade due to problem? You know anything about this???
Yea it was mistake which I should have known. They showed picture of original board and then sent a "copy" made in Thailand this year with several diffenent connectors and plugs. Like a one size fits all. I will inform this sight how I make out getting full refund.

The retrofit fuse is legitimate. It's included with replacement pumps and boards. Common that a pump wet from leaking over time (even a slow drip, anything that gets/keeps the pump wet) can go to high (or low) resistance due to corroded windings and blow the motor board. The added fuse is additional protection on that point. The F&P electrical design is very sensitive to resistance valves among the various components. VERY important to NOT ignore a leak, replace a bad/suspect pump *immediately* to avoid more trouble.

I am not aware of 3rd-party boards but I suppose it's possible. Thailand-sourcing may be legitimate, can't say for sure about that, either. All replacement boards from F&P are rebuilt boards, they are no longer producing "virgin" boards for older (Phase 6 and older) models. The current GWL11 replacement does have a different connector for the diverter than the original board ... could be there are more differences since the last info I have.

FisherPaykelParts.net, FisherPaykelParts.com, and SearsPartsDirect.com are legitimate parts sources for sure. eBay sellers, depends.

dadoes- ok I'm going to purchase a reconditioned board. If it does not have this fuse link should I purchase and install? If so what amp fuse/type would you suggest. And splice into brown wire on pump?

dadoes- Things changed since last month. Returned board received to Pandora- they misrepresented in picutre what they wer selling. I will say no more on that. They are trying to pass a 2)% restocking charge to me. I am fighting!
Found anothe compay who did not misrepresent what they were selling and had onlne picture of the hook up. Bought board from them almost $50 plus less than comany P!!!! Long and short installed board, ran thru the programming for large tub and washer working like new. My thanks to you. There a bunch of companies selling that are plan nasty to deal with and no technicanal expertise.

Just wanted to say thank-you. I was having the scrud problem in my GWL 11. Took my basket out and OH BOY. I went one further and took the bolt out of the cover for the pump, Cleaned everything by hand, an hour or so. Did the hot wash with Cascade letting set for a couple hours, Ran a clean hot wash and should be set to go for quite awhile. Cleaning cycle will become part of maintenance, Love this unit, Thanks again.

We purchased a Fisher Paykel washer 4-12-2016 model WA3927G1. It has ruined linens, towels and other clothing with permanent black marks that look like grease. This damage doesn't happen on every wash, but sporadically. There appears to be a black greasy residue that works its way up from the drive shaft where the agitator arm connects. We had a service tech examine the washer and he claims he has no idea how this black greasy residue could possibly get into the tub. I will attach photos of a few damaged items as well as the black grease on the bottom of the outer tub and drive shaft. Btw I never use fabric softener and I only use Allergy Cycle because it's the only cycle that fills the tub with warm or hot water. Because of allergies and skin sensitivities we use All Free and Clear, occassionally we use ERA and also use bleach a couple times a week. Still waiting on a response from Fisher Paykel and in the meantime I must do laundry elsewhere to avoid further damage to our clothes . Any ideas would be appreciated! Thank you!

My guess is your detergent choice is somehow interacting adversely with your local water conditions. You may also be underdosing the detergent, not strong enough concentration in the wash water to keep soils suspended and flushed away.

Your pictures are of the underside of the spin basket. Is there a large residue accumulation on the drive shaft? F&P's design, assuming it hasn't changed in recent years, doesn't call for any grease application there.