I dont have an opinion on the visuals, butÂ

The piping issue sounds like a huge headache. I consider myself good at piping but trying to get a consistent look with a quilted fabric that has batting seems nightmarish. Since you have your fabric already I would take it to a fabric store and see if you can match it up with a solid non-quilted fabric to use for the piping.

ItÂs a triple whammy: batting + quilting + velvet pile. Unless the pile is really short and dense a tight roll with it might expose the base fabric.

Funny I needed quilted satin recently and could find nothing. Never thought of Ebay!

For better advice I would post the piping issue on the sewing forum. Someone might have a solution for you.

Just have to say: whoo hoo! I too have just scored a Lee Industries sofa on Craigs list and am looking to reupholster it in velvet. :-)

Folks generally go for a satiny lip cord with velvet upholstery, since velvet exposes the backing so easily when folded for piping, or after a little wear and tear. (And it's not easy to steam piping back to fullness once it's on the cushions..) Alternately, I'd go to the local fabric store and get a yard of all polyester velvet or microsuede in the appropriate color - much tighter weave and better wear for the edges, and supple enough for good piping.

I don't think it will look odd to have the seat cushion one continuous cushion while the back is in two pieces. The key thing would be that the long seat cover fits tightly enough that you don't create a valley in the middle for folks to fall into.

Mine's the opposite - a solid back with piping down the middle and 2 divided seat cushions:
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And yours would look like this, except with a contrasting seat in velvet, right?
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I also like the look of single seat cushions on a sofa, but shoving two into a single cover will pose problems. If you really want to do it, I would suggest removing the cover and any under cover down to the batting/filling. Bridge the two cushions with more batting or foam and put a continuous layer all around, using upholstery spray clue. Make sure it's smooth -- you don't want any lumps and bumps. Put the whole thing into a muslin sleeve, using the same spray glue technique. When it's nice and tight and you have the two pieces properly "fused" and firmly in place, complete with your new upholstery fabric. Good Luck!

I'm going to agree with annie. You're asking for a mess if you try to stuff those two into a cover. The cording will both show and be felt when someone sits on it, and given time, will wear on the velvet differently and leave a pattern of the cording. That stuff needs to come off.

Personally I'd then lay the two foam covers together and draw around them as a pattern on paper, then cut the same shape from a high quality upholstry foam. Then wrap the foam in batting as noted above, and muslin slip.

Then make your one cover removable if you wish.

If you can't get the new foam, rewrap the existing foam instead. But I do think after time it will separate somewhat and again, ruin the look you're after by leaving a gap.

You're working with a very very hard fabric, and trying high level techniques (cording with a quilted velvet). I am very confident with this stype of stuf, and the thought makes me want to curse in advance for you.

I do recommend that you first make a muslin pattern before you try cutting the velvet. Velvet walks away from you when you sew it face to face so be sure you pin the heck out if it (use french silk pins). And as to the cording, don't even try if you don't have or won't pick up a cording foot for your machine (which you'll fall in love with).

If I were making this, I'd first make the muslin pattern (hopefully you've figured that out in your discoveries) and then try to make it up using cheap cording with a cording foot and be sure you have your technique down. Then, if that comes out well, go ahead with the velvet, but remember, more pins verses less, and I like to use two with particularly slippery velvets.

The pattern will be lost if you try to remove the velvet backing (or the quilted batting) and it would be a huge amount of work for something that won't even show. I'd find a nice contrasting fabric or a velvet that matches without batting. But again, personally...I'd not do the velvet cording because it's a pain in the kiester! I'd do it in silk dupioni in the same color which flows well with the velvet and is easy to sew.

I think igloochic has given you good advice, especially since you are a novice at upholstering. Making one pattern and a single piece for the bottom is a better and possibly a more successful outcome to your project. I think you will be happier with the results if you take your time and do it the right way. Bear in mind that you will be adding to the cost with additional material, but you will be happier with the results.
Annie

I didn't explain this well...so if I didn't scare you...let's see if I can try again

"more pins verses less, and I like to use two with particularly slippery velvets. "

What I mean by two pins, is two lines of pins. Pin on your sewing line, with the pin head towards the center of the fabric and the tail (or pointy part) out off the edge. Pin every inch or so (i'm not kidding, velvet WALKS) and then after you get all pinned on that outside row, go ahead and pin again about six inches in towards the center, using one pin every six to nine inches or so to sort of "hold" the velvet. If it walks, you'll be able to catch it easier this way (you will only have to remove six inches of stitching verses the whole side).

Don't underestimate what a pain in the kiester velvet is. But also, don't underestimate yourself :) If you're patient it sews well. My first project ever was to add a silk velvet backing to a silk crazy quilt I made DH. If cotton velvet walks..silk velvet runs like cheap syrup. Gad what a pain. I sewed that freaking quit three or four times before I got the back right, then the button quilting was even more trial and error. But it turned out so lovely I eventually married him to get possession of it.

I hope your sofa is just as successful.

I managed piping on my velvet sofa the first time I reupholstered it, using my old Viking. But when it needed to be done again, this time with mohair velvet, my silly little Brother machine choked and ran the other direction when it got a load of the thickness. Between that and some structural problems, I ended up sending it out to be done by a pro.

Darn, I did a search for the post you mentioned. There were some great directions and suggestions by many who have sewn slipcovers. The original poster had never sewn before and did a good job using responders help.

My first suggestions is a walking foot for anyone working with upholstery fabric. They keep stitches even and eliminate pulling, jamming of thread. Have had mine for years, so not sure what they run price wise now. Perhaps you have a friend who has one to borrow.

There is an easy way to make piping with heavy fabrics. The strip going around the cushions can be folded back on both sides and sewn the width suitable to the fabric forming a piping without adding actual piping inside. Then sew the top/bottom of cushion along the strip as you would if adding an additional piping strip. Not sure if this makes sense, but have used the process on many cushions with heavy fabrics.

Do you mean you have used this method without a special foot?

I have sewn cotton velvet and wool mohair. I didn't think the velvet was very hard to sew, but the wool mohair, OMG never again. I was making roman shades where everything has to be straight. Like said above - the fabric wiggles away from itself.