Oh no...this is terrible!!!!

What FPE paint is he using?!
ECO, Eurolux, Hollandlac??

Faron

It's true that FPE is thin and it doesn't cover very well, but coverage many times depends on the color and how dark what you are painting over is. It may take an additional two coats even with the BM. Usually, I don't like to do mulitiple coats of primer because the primer generally covers worse than the topcoats so it's better to just do multiple coats of paint. If you are painting over some dark stained cabinets this is why we usually try to spray. The paint covers very easily that way.

Hi, Thanks for responding. He is using Hollandlac -- should he have used eco? These are "new wood" but the center board is a little darker...here is a picture pre paint:

Do you think there is a problem using the BM primer? Thanks again for responding.

Domesticah-

I don't think Hollandlac is thin AT ALL!!

What color are you using?
Are they removing doors to paint them?

I played around with "Coach Green" in Hollandlac Brilliant.
DAMN that sample-board looks nice!
It's a beautiful deep "British Racing Green" kinda color.
I can literally see letters from newspaper-print in the finish....(and I used a crappy foam brush!!!!!!)

Upon reviewing FPE's "Specifier Manual" for Hollandlac....
* "New unpainted surfaces..."...."primer coat should be sanded with 220-grit paper & tacked clean before receiving 2 thin, even coats of H-B.
* "Allow each coat to dry OVERNIGHT.
* Read that line AGAIN....!
* Normally, sanding between coats isn't required.
* But, their manual does note..."for areas subject to close eye contact (e.g. your cabinets!!), we recommend a light sanding with 220 or higher grit paper between coats."
* This sanding would obviously have to wait 24 hours after 1st coat!

>>> His priming isn't the issue here!!! Although...
* If you want an absolute glass-like finish, their Swedish-Putty (Enduit), OR Brushing-Putty are very high-build bases that sand easily.
* These primers are what's used on some of those GORGEOUS High-Gloss old European doors!
* So if ya want your cabs to look like the door of a Porsche or Bugatti, these are the bases to use!

This stuff doesn't handle like other paints...TO ME anyway!

Another note:
Color doesn't really matter with FPE!
* The colorants themselves aren't like normal U.S. liquid colorant. FPE's are closer to a PASTE.
* I also used Eurolux Matte tinted to "Wine Red".
* Applied to a WHITE-primed board on purpose, using a crappy foam brush again!
* Pulled coat REAL THIN. Couldn't see thru it...AT ALL. COMPLETELY opaque. Applied another coat later in the day. Then torture-tested it the next day....
* Therefore, I kinda shake my head when people think some of these are thin! I have the complete opposite opinion!
* I've also painted my bath with Eurolux Matte "Brown Cafe". I'm hooked now....

Faron

I think the problem is the painter. In my experience with hollandlac, limited though it is, it covers like syrup on pancakes.
The black door in the background is one coat over a previous coat of red:

Thanks Faron and sombreuil_mongrel for your responses. Faron -- thanks for the heads up about the 24 hour wait between coats. He has sanded after the primer and will be sure he uses tack clothe -- but does he need to sand after the first coat of paint as well? Thanks!

Sanding after 1st coat....
Depends how good the 1st coat turned out!

>>> If you're a little on the fussy side, then-yes. Obviously though, it'll cost more labor $$.
>>> Remember...24 hours b4 "decent sandability"!
>>> 220 or higher grit.
>>> Also- Take lots of b4/after pics from different angles, etc. Turn on all lights, even in daytime, and use flash.
>>> Hang a couple furnace-filters near the area after spraying them with Filter-Charger. This will attract airborne dust TO THE FILTER, and less so to the wet cabs.
>>> Have A/C running with a new filter as well, also sprayed with f-c.

SM-
That's a cool shot!
That black door looks pretty stud!

Faron

He is using Hollandlac -- should he have used eco

He(the painter) is using what you gave him.He has already admitted that he was not familiar with the product. Cut the guy some slack, let him do his job, then see how it turns out. I think you are freeking out a little early.Just my opinion as a painter would see it.

I don't know how I would respond if a customer told me to use a tack cloth either. I don't own one, have never used one and have never really had a problem getting wood smooth.

I have one, down at the bottom of a bucket somewhere,never been used

So, if you guys don't use a tack cloth after you sand, how do you get the tiny particles off?

I use a dust brush, which is really just a paint brush that was no longer good enough to paint with.

Can you post a picture of the sample door painted with one coat of FPE?

I use a dust brush, which is really just a paint brush that was no longer good enough to paint with.

That and a damp rag

Interesting. I’m not a painter. I have a bathroom cabinet to paint so I went to my local paint store and chatted for a while. i chose FPE eco in satin. The sales rep told me I could use Ben moore (primer) high hide to block the oak tannins and then two coats of FPE (blue). I took his word for it. The Ben moore primer worked beautifully after rolling that on. I waited over night to sand it all down. After bathing my FPE can in hot water for 30 minutes to THIN it out I used my new HVLP to spray the doors and drawers.

I can’t believe how beautiful this paint it. The HVLP sprayer lays a thin, consistent coat of paint. FPE eco was thick enough to cover white primer with one thin coat.

like I said, I’m not a painter. I can spray houses with an airless contractor gun and other stuff but this was my first time doing any detailed painting with high end paint and my first time pulling the trigger on a brand new HVLP gun. I don’t feel like it should be that difficult to get a decent result with one or two coats of FPE. However, I have done plenty of work for self proclamed ”anal” customers and I hestitate to point the finger only at the painter in this case. I wasn’t a part of the discussion about quality, finish product, or expectations. All things must be considred. If he‘s learning then a break should be given on price to learn a new skill. If you’re anal to the point where you don’t allow any blemishes or imperfections then you should be willing to pay for it. Many times I’ve encountered people who say they aren’t too demanding and they act laid back and are ok with a medium grade product for a medium grade price, only to start the job and have their nit pick list turn into a constant tally sheet of ”anal” expectations. If the guy told you that hes never used FPE then you should be aware of this and find a professional FPE painter. From what I understand a person can actuallly get certified by FPE in vermont to spray the stuff. I imagine a true pro would be much much higher than your 3500.00 quote. Its important to know what you're asking for up front and be willing to pay for it. If you want perfection, find a person who isn't learning somthing new and pay them what they ask for.