I think (A) looks better, more finished. The 3" strip will help define the step as an architectural feature, as well as call attention to the change in floor height. I can't explain exactly why, but (B) looks wrong to me.

Am I agreeing with you or your husband?

I think it is preferable to do A, because then the seam will be protected. There will be lateral forces there that could cause chipping or loosening of tiles if the seam is on top.

Bullnose NEVER, and I mean NEVER for any reason, goes on the riser. Sooner or later, feet will get scuffed enough times on the edge of the bullnose that it'll pop off, no matter HOW well you thinset it on. The bullnose always goes on the tread. Period. This one's not even open to discussion.

So what are you saying, Bill? ;-)

Thanks so much for your quick responses.
I am not sure which "side" DH and I were taking...We were both sort of undecided. I had originally thought we would put bullnose on the tread in the kitchen, but then the salesperson at the tile store told us to put the bullnose on the riser bc the 3inch strip of tile on the tread would not look right so then I became convinced that was the way to go. Well, in this case, function definitely wins over form. Plus, it makes me feel better hearing some of you say you prefer the look of Option A anyway.

Bill...You never seem to get away from these posts without a follow-up question or two...So, here are mine....

When we put the hardiboard on this area, do we lay it in the same fashion as Option A (put it on the vertical riser first and lay the sheet in the kitchen over that to form a 90-degree step)? This is how we planned on doing it, but I just wanted to double check.

We have tiled 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, but we have never used tiles larger than 12x12's...Any advice for laying the 19x19s?

Lastly, (ok this is 3 questions), do you have any comments about ditra underlayment? It seems to be the latest thing, but is it really any better than hardibacker?

Thanks so much. Have a great weekend, Everyone!

When we put the hardiboard on this area, do we lay it in the same fashion as Option A (put it on the vertical riser first and lay the sheet in the kitchen over that to form a 90-degree step)? This is how we planned on doing it, but I just wanted to double check.

Although "the book" says it doesn't matter, The OCD in me says you're right-- riser first and cap it with the floor.

We have tiled 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, but we have never used tiles larger than 12x12's...Any advice for laying the 19x19s?

A couple. First, make sure your subfloor is as flat as possible. Even the slightest deviation in the subfloor will translate into a tile edge sticking way up. Secondly, use a medium bed mortar instead of thinset. The only difference is that it's got a coarser grain sand in it so it can be applied a little heavier than thinset. Lastly, use what might appear to most, a HUGE notched trowel. The notch I prefer with tiles that big is 1/2" wide by 3/4" deep. You CAN get away with 1/2x1/2", but then you need to backbutter each tile, as well.

Lastly, (ok this is 3 questions), do you have any comments about ditra underlayment? It seems to be the latest thing, but is it really any better than hardibacker?

It's more betterer than you could imagine. :-) Hardibacker, or ANY of the CBU's provide one thing, and one thing only, and that's a more stable bonding surface. What Ditra provides is not only a better way of bonding, but also protection from structural expansion and contraction of the house, which translates into a longer lasting floor.

Bill, If you are still there...My DH went to buy supplies and is wondering if there is a specific brand and/or type of "medium bed mortar" you would recommend? Thanks so much!

Laticrete. IS there any other brand? :-) (just kidding) Actually Mapei just came out with one called Ultraflex LFT (large format tile). I still like the Laticrete version better, but if you can't find one, the other is usually available.