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merimom_gw

X post to Flooring - Tiling step from kitchen to family room

17 years ago

We are tiling our kitchen in 13x13 and 19x19 porcelain tiles in what I think is called a "hopscotch pattern".

We just removed the layers of glued down wood laminate, vinyl tile, and luan to get to the plywood subfloor. My DH is getting ready to lay the hardibacker and we decided now is a good time to start disagreeing about how we are going to tile the step down.

Here is the step:

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We have a 3x13 bullnose tiles, but we can't decide if (A) the bullnose should go on top (as part of the kitchen floor) and then put field tiles on the riser part of the step, OR (B) the bullnose should go on riser and brought up to be flush with the tiles on the kitchen floor.

Option A:

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Option B:

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We have a couple concerns either way. If we go with Option A (bullnose as part of the kitchen floor) - then we have a 3-inch strip of tile going the whole length of the step which I don't think looks so great. If we go with Option B (bullnose on the riser) then we have a grout line at the edge of the step and we are concerned that this grout will crack.

Any advice out there? I know this is a terrible weekend to be seeking advice bc hopefully everyone is out enjoying the holiday weekend, but we need to keep this project moving bc we have to little ones crawling/walking around.

Thanks!

Comments (7)

  • 17 years ago

    I think (A) looks better, more finished. The 3" strip will help define the step as an architectural feature, as well as call attention to the change in floor height. I can't explain exactly why, but (B) looks wrong to me.

    Am I agreeing with you or your husband?

  • 17 years ago

    I think it is preferable to do A, because then the seam will be protected. There will be lateral forces there that could cause chipping or loosening of tiles if the seam is on top.

  • 17 years ago

    Bullnose NEVER, and I mean NEVER for any reason, goes on the riser. Sooner or later, feet will get scuffed enough times on the edge of the bullnose that it'll pop off, no matter HOW well you thinset it on. The bullnose always goes on the tread. Period. This one's not even open to discussion.

  • 17 years ago

    So what are you saying, Bill? ;-)

    Thanks so much for your quick responses.
    I am not sure which "side" DH and I were taking...We were both sort of undecided. I had originally thought we would put bullnose on the tread in the kitchen, but then the salesperson at the tile store told us to put the bullnose on the riser bc the 3inch strip of tile on the tread would not look right so then I became convinced that was the way to go. Well, in this case, function definitely wins over form. Plus, it makes me feel better hearing some of you say you prefer the look of Option A anyway.

    Bill...You never seem to get away from these posts without a follow-up question or two...So, here are mine....

    When we put the hardiboard on this area, do we lay it in the same fashion as Option A (put it on the vertical riser first and lay the sheet in the kitchen over that to form a 90-degree step)? This is how we planned on doing it, but I just wanted to double check.

    We have tiled 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, but we have never used tiles larger than 12x12's...Any advice for laying the 19x19s?

    Lastly, (ok this is 3 questions), do you have any comments about ditra underlayment? It seems to be the latest thing, but is it really any better than hardibacker?

    Thanks so much. Have a great weekend, Everyone!

  • 17 years ago

    When we put the hardiboard on this area, do we lay it in the same fashion as Option A (put it on the vertical riser first and lay the sheet in the kitchen over that to form a 90-degree step)? This is how we planned on doing it, but I just wanted to double check.

    Although "the book" says it doesn't matter, The OCD in me says you're right-- riser first and cap it with the floor.

    We have tiled 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, but we have never used tiles larger than 12x12's...Any advice for laying the 19x19s?

    A couple. First, make sure your subfloor is as flat as possible. Even the slightest deviation in the subfloor will translate into a tile edge sticking way up. Secondly, use a medium bed mortar instead of thinset. The only difference is that it's got a coarser grain sand in it so it can be applied a little heavier than thinset. Lastly, use what might appear to most, a HUGE notched trowel. The notch I prefer with tiles that big is 1/2" wide by 3/4" deep. You CAN get away with 1/2x1/2", but then you need to backbutter each tile, as well.

    Lastly, (ok this is 3 questions), do you have any comments about ditra underlayment? It seems to be the latest thing, but is it really any better than hardibacker?

    It's more betterer than you could imagine. :-) Hardibacker, or ANY of the CBU's provide one thing, and one thing only, and that's a more stable bonding surface. What Ditra provides is not only a better way of bonding, but also protection from structural expansion and contraction of the house, which translates into a longer lasting floor.

  • 17 years ago

    Bill, If you are still there...My DH went to buy supplies and is wondering if there is a specific brand and/or type of "medium bed mortar" you would recommend? Thanks so much!

  • 17 years ago

    Laticrete. IS there any other brand? :-) (just kidding) Actually Mapei just came out with one called Ultraflex LFT (large format tile). I still like the Laticrete version better, but if you can't find one, the other is usually available.