We have a dark pine library that was installed in 1935. When we moved it it looked bad. I used Watco Danish oil and whipped on a fresh coat. It cleaned up nice and left a nice satin look.

"Course, there's always the Murphy's Oil Soap I like."

If the finish is completely intact Murphy's can be OK.
If there are ANY defects in the finish the Murphy's and water can get under the finish and cause damage.

If the finish is shellac you need to use a minimum of water if you go that route.

Paint thinner will not harm any type of finish and removes grease and dirt very well.

Open the windows and start wiping.

Finer grades of non-woven finish pads can speed up the work.

I am sorry to be so late with a "thank you reply" to both of you. Couple of things came up for me including MIL in the Intensive Care Unit. Anyway, I learned something from both your replies. Never heard of the Watco Danish Oil but will look into it. Brickeyee, I would guess? that there was originally a shellac finish on this wood. In the places where we remove pictures and such that have been there forever, there is a shiny finish. Everywhere else there is no shine at all.

Good thing about an old lake cottage like this is that it's rustic.....beat to heck and back is not a bad thing. Our biggest challenge has been renovating the stinkin kitchen and bath and trying not to get either one too new or prissy. With these pine walls, I just want them cleaned and conditioned.

Thanks for your replies,
pup

The attached article is for furniture, but it applies also to cabinetry and paneling.

Watco Danish Oil is a fine product, but is not really meant to go over a film-forming finish. It will not be able to soak into the wood fibers and will leave a soft residue on the surface. I'd much rather see you pad on some varnish or shellac -- After a through cleaning and light abrasion.

I just top coated an old cedar chest. It was really dirty on top, so I did a cleaning. Then I sanded down all the rough finish (about half the top). I applied a coat of padding lacquer (shellac), let it dry then padded on a coat of non-poly varnish. Does not look "Like New" but it looks old and well-cared for. The dents and distresses add to age and character.

Here is a link that might be useful: Saving the finish

Hey! I have all of the removed knotty pine paneling from our 1948 cabin. It is stacked in my garage and we are going to clean it and re use it in our new little cabin. I can't wait! Think we are going to scrub it down with Murphys and call it good???

I've been a pain in contractor and a wood restorer for over 40 years Murphy's soap is for a product that has finish on it not a raw product that's 50 years old been in the ceiling you want to strip it down with a solution of I'd say water is done a little hydrogen peroxide and put it in a rose bush sprayer spray it on and take an old mop and scrub it off with a scouring pad you're more than the main problem is the black marks from the the nails leaking through or the screws we can through or the bulls however the ceiling was attached or the beams what you get that down then you go over it with a coat of lacquer or polyurethane with a color shading in it blend it all in perfect bang looks beautiful