I would go for the Miele... I did. Not installed yet! I like the burner configuration, power output, and also each hob has a true timer. Miele is the only one I know of that has that feature.

Boopsie,
I hope you don't mind if I jump in here since I have induction cooktop questions too!!

I'm trying to select an induction cooktop and am interested in information as far as size -- wondering if 30" gives enough room to cook several things at the same time without pans bumping into each other, or if 36" is needed to avoid this.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience!

Hi Boopsie,

How exciting.

Here are some links that talk about inductions cooktops.
Keep in mind the installation process too.
Some inductions need clearance of a lower cab area.
Not sure about the details but something to consider.
Some have autoshut off for overboiling and spillage.

Best of luck,
~boxerpups

---------------

which induction cooktop?
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0313104825508.html

Miele Induction
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg010112194287.html

Electrolux Icon 30' Induction Cooktop
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg031037161340.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Induction cooktops-

Also, you need to run a special (50 amp, I think) electric cable just for the induction cooktop.

Anne

Anne, it's not the amperage--that has to do with the timing. There's no easy way to change the number of cycles (amps). I was told, since I'm putting a 50 amp unit on a 60 amp circuit, to just to make a conversion table for the timers. Any appliance sold for use in the U.S. will be rated for 60 amps. Many electric, including induction, cooktops require a dedicated 240 circuit, just like an oven or dryer might.

I think the GE is one of the ones that requires a lot of cabinet depth that Boxerpups referred to. The Miele is requires very little. It is also very quiet and has individual controls, true times and extended power levels. I don't know anything about the KA.

Regarding size, it all depends on layout. If you're looking at a 30", go for one that has a large element and three smaller ones for the most utility. There should be plenty of room for all the pots, but it depends on the way you cook. 30" generally has four elements, and 36" has five. The spacing is similar.

Do follow Boxerpups's URL's to the Appliance forum. That's where the real info lives.

p111og, just FYI but I think the GE has changed either their actual cooktop or at least their specs. Some time ago, I DO remember this one as requiring a really huge amount of space between the unit and lower cab depth.

Looking at it recently though the specs seem to have changed dramatically and I think they even talk about it being suitable for mounting over a below counter oven. They're requiring a LOT less depth now.

Toomuchstuph, I looked because I was all excited that they would have changed! They still list 12" depth in the installation instructions (at least online). That's what knocked it out of the running for me before anything else. Do you have more up-to-date installation instructions?

They do allow a same brand oven, as many do. And people have installed them much shallower over a thermal shield. Because the latter isn't an option shown in the installation instruction, pros refuse (I checked when I was looking). They don't want to take responsibility for a non-standard install. GE would be so much more competitive if they've really changed!!

Re the clearance for GE Profile, they give conflicting information which makes it so confusing!

The Quick Specifications PDF says 5" clearance between bottom of cooktop and combustibles; the Installation Guide says 12". (Got both links through the Induction Site.) I have seen the 12" quoted so often that I suspect that's the correct clearance they want. I prefer the frameless look so will try to contact GE to confirm the info.

I agree....GE would probably get a LOT more buyers if they had a smaller clearance.

You're right anna...they don't make it easy!

GE's website says "The stainless steel trim adds a touch of style, while simplified installation procedures allow the cooktop to fit an existing GE® and GE Profile cutout or be placed over a wall oven*" *Can't be used over trivection.

When I get closer, hopefully I'll be able to just talk to someone at GE. I think that was what somebody on the appliance forum did and GE told them they would be OK.

Yes! In the installation instructions it absolutely says you can put it over a GE oven. They make them especially to work over their own products, which means that the guts of the layouts align correctly for safety.

If you're not putting it over an oven they say 12", or per Anna's quick specs, maybe 5". That part isn't clear. Miele is still a lot shallower, but 5" is tolerable.

Ahhhh....that makes a LOT of sense p111og! Thanks for the clarification.

it's not the amperage--that has to do with the timing. There's no easy way to change the number of cycles (amps). I was told, since I'm putting a 50 amp unit on a 60 amp circuit, to just to make a conversion table for the timers. Any appliance sold for use in the U.S. will be rated for 60 amps.

PIllog, no. You're confusing amperes (electrical current) with cycles or frequency (measured in Hertz(Hz)). It is the frequency that impacts the clock and timers (might, depends on the clock) and AC power (voltage AND current) in the US is 60Hz while it is 50Hz in Europe.

BUT, absolutely pay attention to the voltage and current requirements of the device and DO NOT PUT or let your electrician install a device that wants a 60Amp circuit on a 50 AMP circuit - this will, if all is installed correctly, cause your circuit breaker to trip and if all is not installed correctly, produce an electrical fire. 60Amp/50Amp has got NOTHING to do with timing. You've said you're installing a 50Amp unit on a 60AMP circuit - that is alright since the unit won't overdraw current on that circuit. But since the text of your message is confusing amperes with timing I just wanted to send out a caution.

Messing up your clock and timers (60Hz (Hz, not amps) device on a 50Hz circuit or vv) may or may not matter much (depends on what the unit is and what its electronics do to the incoming power signal). But always always always check the voltage and current (amperes) and therefore the power (power = voltage X current). That said, I'd definitely check with the manufacturer to see if that 50Hz device will be okay on a 60Hz circuit - you may be making an assumption that it is only timers that are affected. The truth is that with electrical equipment, you need to be sure that the transformer is robust to a 20% change in frequency (for many devices, power transformers are), but IMO it is best to check since it depends very much on the device.

Thanks, Mindstorm!!!! Seems I got that really really wrong!

Electricity was my best topic in Physics, but I never keep the names straight. I even looked it up to make sure I got it right before I posted and still got it wrong!!

I guess I was too focused on my own case. :( Sorry! I checked with the Gaggenau service guys and they gave the go ahead and said that the difference in Hz would only mean that the timers ran at the wrong speed, and that otherwise it should work just fine, even though the wiring is different. They had a confab with the electrician too.