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Is it possible to extend existing roof line for addition work?

10 years ago

Hi, I'd like to enlarge the front of my house by just continuing and extending the existing roof by 3 to 6 feet and then building additional space underneath the new roof.

My house is a 45 by 28 foot one story, split level, tuck-under garage house, with 28 foot long, 4x12 slope engineered common trusses running perpendicular to the front of the house. The heel of the trusses are at the front of the house.

Because the edge of the front roof is 16 feet above the driveway and 12 feet above the front yard, I would just like to extend the existing roof down and forward, maintaining the 4/12 roof slope. I would then be able to enlarge my garage and the bedrooms over it, add a 6 by 12 foot entrance foyer and closet and add to the living room.

The existing front wall I would remove and replace with a line of double 12 foot 14 inch lvl beams to support the existing roof. I would stick frame the new 3 to 6 feet of new roof and ceiling joists. The rooms on the inside of the front of the house would have sloped ceiling that would drop 2 to 3 feet at the front wall. I'm OK with the look of the sloped ceiling and lowered front windows. I'm also sloping the ceiling so much for a deep energy retrofit, as I live in the Minneapolis area with very cold winters.

I have a full two volume set of the 2000 International Residential Building Code, and sectional updates of it, so I have checked my plans for downward loads but I don't know about lateral, shear and uplift loads on this unusual roof remodel. I'm wondering if my house could fall over.

My concern is the 3 to 6 feet of new sloped roof drops one to two feet below the existing roof and lvl supporting it below. I'm afraid lateral and shear forces could cause the roof to buckle and collapse where the new roof meets the old roof.

Does anyone have experience with this kind of roof extension? I'd like to know if this kind of roof extension is possible before I hire a structural engineer to check my plans.
I've considered other roofing designs for the front of my house, including cross gables, but I feel they go too high and are a lot more work. My existing roof is just 4 years old so I'd rather leave as much of it alone as possible. I'd also like to add to the sides and back of the house, so I would like to economize where I can. I'll be doing the work myself this spring and summer.

Thanks.

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago

    No one not on site with you, vewing the structure, can tell you if you have a feasable plan or not. Only your local permits office can tell you if they will allow the addition, what written documentation they will require, and whether or not they will allow a homeowner to do the work. Bumpouts of existing spaces are just as expensive as larger additions, as the most expensive part is where the new ties into old. It will affect your roofing, siding, foundation, framing, windows, insulation, electrical, HVAC, and possibly plumbing. None of that will be cheap, even with ''free' labor. And it is not likely to be recouped in additional value to the home. Also plan a talk with a real estate agent about your plans, and their impact on the resalability of the home.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Cost vs Value 2015

  • 10 years ago

    Hi, I still would like to hear from anyone who has done or knows anything about this kind of roof extension remodel, that is adding three to six feet to the front of a house by simply continuing the existing roof line down and out and building underneath it. The existing front wall would be removed and replaced with a double set of heavy lvl beams supported on end by posts or perpendicular interior walls, with the load transferred to the existing 12 inch cement block wall and 20 inch concrete footing. The new ceiling and roof would be stick framed with 2x4's and 2x6's , tying the ends of the existing roof trusses and the sides of the new lvl beams to the new outer wall. I'd build a new 2x6 framed front wall on a new poured footing and block wall up to grade.

    I believe I can figure out all the construction except the lateral stability of the new ceiling and roof section. I'm concerned because the top of the new front wall would be 2 to 3 feet lower than the bottom of the heels of the existing roofing trusses, and I am not sure what kind of lateral forces would act on this structure.

    As for aesthetics I believe an extended sloped front roof would probably look better than 3 high cross gables that start at 16 feet over the driveway and 12 feet over the front steps, that may look too high. I also do not want to cut back two large trees that overhang the front of the house, including a 200 year old burr oak.

    On the inside the sloped front ceiling is far from ideal but still acceptable, as I would still have a 9 1/2 foot high ceiling in the foyer, 6 foot ceiling in the living room and 5 ' 8" ceiling in the bedrooms. I recently saw a 2 million dollar new construction home in Edina Minnesota with 5' 8" sloped bedroom ceiling that looked great. With smaller rooms with windows that look down into a yard lowered windows can work.

    I understand no one without seeing my precise plans can tell if they are doable, but I would like information in general if something like I propose could be done. I bought this foreclosure home two years ago, and since have peppered the city building officials with so many questions that I thought I would try to seek more information from others before I talk to them again.

  • 10 years ago

    Hire a local structural engineer. It sounds as though it would not make for a very livable or attractive structure, so as an expenditure, it would cost you a lot, and be a wasted expense.

  • 10 years ago

    Can it be done? Sure.

    Extending roof lines is not uncommon.

    To get this permitted, your permitting office will likely require your plans be stamped by a structural engineer. The idea is to draw up what you want to build. With your proposal, an office visit to an engineer would be a good thing to get things started. Some will want to work with you off of your drawings. Some may not. Some might want a visit to your house. Some may not.

    The engineer will typically figure how the loads are transferred through the structure from roof line to footings and indicate the specs for beams, connectors, etc.

    Loads, shear, uplift, snow...all those will be taken into consideration.

    You do need to be careful since you have trusses. Anytime an engineered system is modified (a truss is cut for example) the alteration should be an engineered solution.

    Good luck!

  • 10 years ago

    Additionally, do you have room on your property to do the addition and still be within setbacks?

    Your permitting office will walk you through this.

  • 10 years ago

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  • 10 years ago

    He is here too!!

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