In your case I'm thinking it doesn't make any difference where you live in SoCal, but could you please narrow down your location? My suggestions might be different if you live at Big Bear Lake than if you live in Heber.

Sod roller is the most important thing for after the install, so you're doing well there. Prior to putting the sod down you should have bare soil that is as even as you can possibly get it. You don't want perfectly flat because you'll need it to drain, but get rid of all the low spots and high spots. Look on this forum for discussions about leveling bermuda lawns. Doing it before hand is preferable to doing it later. Assuming you don't have it perfect now, what you'll need is sand and a drag. I've used a 2x4 drag and a chain link fence drag. Both worked. Hopefully you have not rototilled the soil. If you have then just forget about leveling it now and come back in 3 years to level it.

There are YouTube videos that show you how to install new sod. I would turn the sound off because most of the commentary is inane and much of it is counter productive. Just watch how they do it. If you have a machete, that will help to chop it into the curves or up against solid objects.

Also ask your sod provider how to water the grass once it's installed. And also ask him how to water it after the sod is up and growing. Listen carefully to him to learn whether he knows what he's talking about. If he does not say the following, then you should ignore everything else he says. New sod should be watered lightly 3x per day for the first 3 weeks. Lightly means 5-10 minutes for an average sprinkler system. 3x per day means breakfast, lunch, and dinner times. This is to keep the roots moist without saturating the underlying soil. It needs to be moist so the roots will grow in, but not saturated. After 3 weeks, test the sod by pulling up on some corners. If it does not pull up, then the roots have begun to knit into the soil. That's great! Then you can start to back off on the frequency and go up on the watering time. Eventually (within a few months) you should be watering deeply and infrequently. Deeply means a full inch at a time. Measure that with cat food or tuna cans placed around the yard. Time how long it takes YOUR sprinkler system to fill all the cans. If they do not all fill at the same time, then your sprinkler system has issues. My sprinkler system is very slow and takes a full 8 hours to fill the cans. My neighbor's system is high power and only takes 20 minutes. Every system is different. Infrequent watering means to water only once depending on several factors. All the factors basically boil down to the air temperature for most people. With temps in the 90s, water once a week. 80s (once every 2 weeks), 70s (once every 3 weeks), 60s (once every month). Improper watering is the mistake most people make when they write in here asking how to fix their lawns. Virtually every lawn guru will give you this advice, so I'm just on the bandwagon. Now that you know that, ask your grass provider and see what he says. If he gives you that exact advice, I'd be shocked, but if he gives you anything close to that, then listen to him. If not then just shoo him away and thank him for delivering the sod. SoCal and SoFla are the two spots where people simply don't want to listen to that. Everyone wants to water 1/7-inch 7 days a week. That's the worst way to water. I came from SoCal (Riverside, Downey, Pomona, Hawthorne, Huntington Beach, downtown LA, Palm Desert, and Indio). When I first joined these forums I argued long and hard about the benefits of daily watering, but I was wrong. No wonder my lawns were weedy.

Get some landscaper flags to mark your sprinkler heads. When you roll down the sod avoid the sprinkler heads. Use your feet to tamp the grass down there. Ideally the pressure from your feet will be exactly the same as the pressure from the roller. The idea with the roller is to get good contact between the roots and the soil, so walking on it is good.

Don't make a perfect checkerboard with the sod pieces. If it comes as a roll, that's good. Stagger the pieces and butt them up tight against the next piece of sod. If you have any gaps, fill those with sand and water the sand. Then put more sand in until everything is even.

Put the sod down as quickly as you can. Don't let it sit on pallets for a couple days. You can smother the grass in just a few days.

You don't need to rinse your mower. Neither of those grasses make viable seed, so you're good there. You do need to change the mowing height for the two. The TTTF should be mowed at your mower's highest setting* while the bermuda should be mowed at the lowest setting. Modern mowers make changing the height pretty easy, so that should not be a problem.
*Although it is considered a TTTF, Marathon fescues are dwarfed, meaning that they grow significantly slower than other fescues. If you have Marathon I, II, or III, you can still mow them high but you won't need to mow it as often as the bermuda. The bermuda should be mowed 2x per week once the growing season starts. Marathon can go a couple weeks without mowing. Mowing the bermuda low will keep it the most dense.

Bermuda should be fertilized with a high N fertilizer once a month for maximum greening, density, and appearance. Any chemical fertilizer with a high N value is good. For organics you can use urea (technically organic although it is chemically derived) or soybean meal for the highest N values. N values drop off fast after that but there are reports here and there from homeowners who have success growing bermuda using alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) as their only monthly fertilizer. Alfalfa pellets are available at any feed store while soybean meal is not. The app rate for soybean meal is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet. For alfalfa pellets you can go to 20 pounds per 1,000. If you are using organics, you can feed the TTTF the same way. If you are using chemicals, then the front should be fertilized once in May, once in September, and once in November.

I realize you were not asking about the fescue, but I got on a roll. Hope the additional reading did not bore you.

thanks for all the info! I am confused about two things, i have rototilled my yard with top soil and it is all graded was this bad? Also should i lay sand down before the grass? thanks again you have been very helpful

Rototilling was bad. At this point you can just sit back and expect to see the surface get bumpy as the months drone on. At about the 3 year point the soil will not get any bumpier and then you can bring in the sand to level it out. I have to run right now, but I'll get back to you on why rototilling creates a bumpy surface.

well thats a bummer and the damage is done and my grass shows up on saturday. BTW I live in oceanside about 6 miles from the beach, in the summer it averages 80 degrees and i dont get marine layer. Does the bermuda like the sand? everything i read said rototill good top soil in. We only rototilled the top 6" then graded a week later and tamped. This was done after i installed my irrigation. Here is a pic that was taken at 0930 today.

Google "Bermuda Bible" and you will be better off.

Bermuda and sand mix very well. The surface of all golf courses is sand and in the west, bermuda is the mainstay of golf courses. Are you close enough to the beach that your soil is already sand? If so then you should be good to go even after rototilling. Sand hardly develops a structure even at its best.

I realize there are a few prominent places where they recommend rototilling for lawns, but that's wrong. Ultimately those places (Scott's) are going to sell you more products if your soil structure goes haywire. The only way you can get away with rototilling is if the tiller is mounted on a tractor. Otherwise they buck and dig in as the blades hit hard and soft spots in the soil. Roots, rocks, clods, and mud will prevent you from getting a perfectly even subsurface with a hand held rototiller. When you skim off the surface to a level surface, you leave different depths of fluffy soil based on the uneven subsurface. As the fluffy soil settles and forms a structure, it does that unevenly leaving a bumpy surface. You really do have to wait 3 years before that settling stops. Then you can level it.

We used to vacation in Oceanside back in the early 60s. It was a much different place then.