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tvett

Supply lines above subfloor, what are my options?

10 years ago

I am installing new floating vanities in my 2nd story bathroom and will install a tile floor. We after I ripped out my vanity I discovered that my hot and cold supply lines make a 90 turn above the sub-floor, then 90 again straight up. Upon further exploration I realized part of my 2nd story cantilevers out about 16"-18". So the lines were run like that to avoid freezing issues, and was not an issue since they were under the kick. What are my options? Is it too risky to re-route them under the sub-floor and insulate? The wall you see in the picture is the exterior wall.

Thanks!

Comments (6)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I had a similar situation when I re-did mt MBR. We purchased a double sink basin piece of furniture with legs. You can not see the pipes without laying down on the floor.

    My next door neighbor also refinished his MBR - exactly same arrangement. He stripped all of the sheetrock off the wall and heavily insulated the wall cavity. He then ran the piping up the inside of the new sheet rock and then built false wall stubbed out the width of the 2X4 "studs" and contained the pipes in that cavity. Lost a few inches of floor space and cost some bucks compared to my approach.

    tvett thanked User
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I would move it to the cantilever (warm side of insulation). You should also extend the pipes into the wall to get the vertical portion hidden (also keep on warm side of insulation). I certainly would hope the cantilever is insulated, if it isnt then it should be!

    I feel having a partially raised area on the floor under a floating sink will feel odd to stand on or be a toe stubber. I had originally thought to maybe raise the whole subfloor about 3/4" but then you get a trip/fall hazard at the transition into the room.

    tvett thanked Vith
  • 10 years ago

    vithdude, I was considering adding 3/4" plywood to whole bathroom (+/- 90 square feet). The adjoining rooms are carpeted and could be shimmed to create a smooth transition. I talked to a plumber today and he doesn't want to run the lines to the overhang or exterior wall for liability reason. I think Ill get a second opinion.

  • 10 years ago

    Yvette,

    Are you in Key West or Green Bay?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    If you increase the subfloor keep in mind thats 3/4" higher subfloor, not finished floor. If you put tile on top of that you are looking at an even higher floor. That's where the trip hazard comes into play. Just something to keep in mind, but if the transition will be ok then go for it!