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Powder room floor: Marmoleum over asbestos tile?

10 years ago

I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what to do with my tiny powder room floor.

The room is 4' x 4'. It has hideous brown stick-on tiles on top of some white vinyl tile on top of 6"x6" black and white tiles, which probably contain asbestos and likely original to the 1952 house. These 6x6 tiles are stuck with black mastic (likely containing asbestos) to plywood, which is nailed to a wood subfloor. You can see all the layers in the photo below, where I've pulled back the top layer of brown tile:


This powder room adjoins my kitchen, which has a wood floor. I was thinking of pulling up the brown tiles, which I know don't have asbestos (had them tested before we pulled up the kitchen floor), and putting down a floating Marmoleum Click floor over the other two layers of vinyl tile (white stone-look 12" tile, and 6" black and white squares).

But, as you can see, the thin white tile (which might contain asbestos) is breaking up -- a piece of it is stuck to the back of the brown tile in the photo -- so when I pull up the brown tile, the floor won't be flat or smooth. How do I smooth out the floor so I can put the Marmoleum Click over it? Can I use a patching product like Ardex feather finish?

Plus, there's this big gap in the floor where a transition piece is supposed to go, but I'm not sure what to put in that space -- wood? marble? something else? I really don't want a metal transition piece in between my wood floor and the Marmoleum.

Also, is Marmoleum Click the right product for a powder room in constant use? DH and my kids are in and out all day, and they drip water on the floor when they wash their hands.

I've scoured the Marmoleum website, and it looks like the sheet product would be the best for this application, but I would have to remove the floor tiles, which I don't want to do because I suspect they contain asbestos. My carpenter said he'd cut out the floor, but that worries me because you are not supposed to saw through asbestos.

Sorry for the long post! I'm hoping some Marmoleum owners can weigh in here.

One last issue: If I use the Marmoleum Click, the powder room floor will be 1/8"-1/4" higher than the wood kitchen floor, so what kind of transition strip could I use? And how will I fill in that gap between the wood floor and the powder room floor? My carpenter left it empty when he installed the wood floor in the kitchen because he thought I was going to use ceramic tile in the powder room. I changed my mind when I realized the cost (another factor) and that I'd have to remove the suspected asbestos-containing tile or the entire floor, rebuild it, then install tile, which I'm not equipped to do. I think I can install the Click by myself, as it doesn't look that difficult, except for cutting the hole for the toilet!

Sigh.

I've expended hours, days, weeks agonizing over this tiny floor!

Any and all advice most appreciated!

Comments (8)

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    The proper thing to do is to bubble the entire house. Send in the HazMat team and remove every fibre of asbestos.


    What really happens is this stuff gets removed and the new floor goes in.


    Some guys do this. Some do not.


    Are you not adding an underpad under the click flooring? That will certainly smooth over any minor bumps of 1/32".


    A T molding for the transition will allow you some flexibility and cover the gap. Sometimes they are designed like reducers.


    When I did my Nana's home for her I left the old floor peel n stick tile and added the foam underlayment. And then went right over top. Or you can budget $5,000 to prep 20 square feet of flooring that most likely costs less than $100.00

  • 10 years ago

    I paid about $2K to have an asbestos removal company take up my kitchen and basement tile floors. They did it correctly, hazmat suits, air blowing outside the house, rooms sealed off, etc. But this powder room was forgotten! Someone shut the door and they didn't see it!
    So, now I've got 16 square feet of presumed asbestos-containing floor tile (don't know since this particular tile wasn't tested) either to cover up or remove. My carpenter doesn't think it's worth calling in the asbestos removal people, and in my state, a homeowner can remove non-friable suspected asbestos-containing flooring up to 100 square feet.

    I'd like to cover it up. All the EPA websites say cover up asbestos tile. It's not dangerous if it's not friable (crumbling) and my tile is not.

    The underlayment for Click will add more height to the powder room floor. There's a silvery foam type sold by Farbo (it's 1/8" at least), and whisper wool underlayment that's 1/8" thick. So my powder room floors would be 3/8" higher than my kitchen floor. Will this look bad?

    Will the underlayment be enough to "hide" the uneven floor caused by the missing pieces of white tile? Or will I need to fill them in/even out the floor with some leveling or patching product?

    I looked up t-moldings and reducer moldings -- not the look I was hoping for, but I can live with it if I have to. I understand Farbo no longer sells transition moldings.

    I was hoping I could get the Marmoleum and the wood floor to abut each other at the same height, but I'm assuming this isn't possible with Click? Does anyone know? Does anyone have Click installed adjacent to a wood floor without an expansion gap?


  • 10 years ago

    If the white tile is breaking up, then it's friable. Did you get a price yet from the guys who removed your other asbestos? I would have them remove the plywood and everything above it.

  • 10 years ago

    Friable means that it can be crumbled, pulverized or reduced to powder by the pressure of an ordinary human hand. Snapping because it is adhered strongly to another item is not the same thing.

    Loose flooring really needs to be removed prior to installing a new floor.

  • 10 years ago

    This is unrelated to asbestos but related to changes in floor height. Most of the housing stock in my neighborhood is pre-Civil war, so no bathrooms, originally, and in some instances no subfloors. just the floor, which is thick planks in this case, on the joists.

    Old-school bathrooms have wire mesh and mortar beds set on the historical flooring, and newer bathrooms have underlayment and cement board and/or some sort of membrane, and/or leveling compound in order to lay down a ceramic tile floor. (Ceramic tile bathrooms are the standard here, no other materials, or rarely).

    So the bathroom floors end up being a definite step up from the floor in the adjacent room: mine was probably an inch. With a proper beveled threshold in the doorway it was not a problem, we seem to accomodate more easily to changes in level like this at doorways whereas this would be a tripping hazard in the middle of the floor somewhere.

    So if you can bury it and it makes your floor higher, it's generally not a big deal, it's really rather commonplace to have changes in level like this with changes in materials.

  • 10 years ago

    I'd take out all the old tile down to the sub floor. It will let you have a smooth transition and keep your options open for flooring.

    We had a few items with < 3% asbestos in our remodel, and it was quite easy to properly dispose of. The crew wore some masks and we had to pay a fee to take the materials to a special dump.



  • 10 years ago

    It looks like someone should be able to pry the whole thing up in one piece including the underlayment leaving the tile as the middle of the sandwich.