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Ovens, combi-steam, microwave: Time to commit

Mary Stoffel
8 years ago

This community has been a lifesaver in my kitchen reno project, thank you so much! Like I'm sure you all know, once you pull a thread on one thing in your plan, you can quickly unravel the whole sweater. A late change to the microwave has me reconsidering part of my appliance plan. At this point I'm dizzy from reading so many threads and ready to seek your opinions.

Background: I've been cooking since I was young. Thought I was going to do it professionally but when I dipped my toe in the water, I realized that the lifestyle wasn't for me. However today, I'm no less serious about execution. I try to do it all, grilling, glazing, broiling, braising, baking, searing, sous vide, and... steaming? I do make big batches of things and reheat or reuse them, like a rotisserie chicken used a zillion different ways though the week. There are only two of us in the house, but I enjoy entertaining and expect the reno to increase to number of future guests & gatherings. I also do meal prep on the weekends for busy weeks.

Also making the transition with me to the new kitchen: Inova sous-vide precision cooker, blow torch with Searzall, and an outdoor Weber Genesis grill with 38,000 BTU/h + 10,000 BTU Sear station & rotisserie.

Original plan:

  • 36" built in Sub-Zero, French door
  • 36" BlueStar rangetop with 12" griddle
  • 2 BlueStar new electric wall ovens, stacked, French door on top
  • Miele warming drawer (Panel-front)
  • 30" Sharp microwave drawer

Because of layout concerns, we were never happy with where the microwave drawer was placed. I also didn't give much thought to the MW compared to the other appliances. Changing to an OTR style (except it will be over the counter) solved the design dilemma but sent me back to the boards to research what you fine people what you thought of your MWs. I quickly narrowed it down to:

  • GE Advantium
  • Panasonic Prestige Plus
  • Bosch Benchmark

When considering which to get I thought, "Well this will be nice, since the BS equipment takes so long to heat up, I can use one of these MWs as a mini-oven for quick weeknight meals." This led me down the road to... steam ovens, for preheat time and reheat quality. Specifically, considering swapping the bottom BlueStar electric with a combi-steam. Preferably plumbed and 30".

Stacked under the BlueStar oven, I think the Thermador Professional combi-steam looks the best, by far. But it's not plumbed and you can't refill the water during cooking, like the Wolf. So looking at the Miele & Gaggenau, Miele doesn't have a 30" and Gagg is so expensive and ultra-modern. I could do Bosch Benchmark and match it to their MW, but again, it's not plumbed and doesn't look as good in the stack. (MW is on opposite end of wall from ovens so matching the two isn't actually a priority.) What's a girl to do?

Right now, pre-reno, the fridge is right next to where the oven stack will go, so there's an existing water line a few inches away from the potential future combi-steam. Should I concede the plumbed versions and go with the Thermador? Can I rough in plumbing behind it in case the perfect plumbed version becomes available in the future? Does the Wolf still have chipping problems? Would a Miele or Gagg look silly stacked with my BlueStar oven? Is the Gaggenau 30" combi-steam available with controls on the top? Am I missing an obvious choice? Should I not get the steam oven and stick with my two BlueStars?


Thank you again for your continued help!

Comments (14)

  • Mary Stoffel
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Thank you for your thoughtful response! I do think I'll end up going with the Wolf pro series. It's clean looking, SS all the way around, with pro style handles and no knobs to match. Good to know that the water reservoir is so big. And I did see that SS interior, which put the chipping fear to rest.

    For anyone else with similar questions, I also posted this question in the appliance forum and will be posting my oven stack updates there.

  • htc2015
    8 years ago

    Thank you, this is v helpful. I looked at several and ordered the Wolf. It was larger and appeared to have more function for every day use, as well as vendor support vs Thermador. I wish it had a broiler but oh well. Will be our daily oven, I suspect. Also purchased double ESeries wall ovens, hoping there is no chipping issue. I raised it with Wolf and Clarke, the distributor. They assured me it is no longer an issue. If it is, they said they will make it right. Hoping I didn't place too much faith in their commitment. Cannot say enough how valuable these discussions have been!

  • janejanel
    8 years ago

    glad to help. I really really like my CSO, so glad to help answer any questions people have and spread the word.

    I've been playing with sous vide eggs with it recently using the steam function, and the results are wonderful. The best hard boiled, soft boiled, onsen tamago and ni tamago I've ever had, much less made. There's some trial and error, but even the errors usually come out decent.

  • htc2015
    8 years ago

    Hi Janejanel, yummy! do you mind sharing how you sous vide the eggs in the combi? Want to try once my installed. Thank you!

  • janejanel
    8 years ago

    Normally if I am doing onsen tamago, I will do steam 165 for about 20-25min. When I crack those, the whites will be like a very delicate white custard, and the yolk will be just solidified, but still the same color of runny yolk. That is my favorite yolk personally - it's like a intensified yolk flavor with the rich texture of ganache. I usually crack that into bowl, and there will be some loose white that cooked onto the inside of the shell that I scrape out with a small spoon (don't like to waste!) though you can skip those bits if you want prettier presentation. Put it in some tsuyu sauce (dashi broth based sauce), sprinkle in some nori, maybe some thinly sliced scallions, some tempura flakes, and it's a beautiful light Japanese appetizer with barely any work. Best, it can be served hot or cold, so the steaming can be done in advance with a whole carton of eggs if you like, and in no time you can have 12 elegant summer appetizers done if entertaining. It looks a lot like this:

    http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/izakaya-kou-san-francisco?select=WbzEL9huH-nRXxwYOxEeww

    But you can adapt this to lots of things. If you like poached eggs, you can cook at lower temps for longer - check out this link:

    http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/10/sous-vide-101-all-about-eggs.html

    I'm working on a variation of hard-boiled eggs simmered in tea right now, that won't have horribly overcooked yolks and rubbery whites the way traditional ones often end up. I will probably flash steam at 210, shock with cold and then send it back in to finish the cooking at lower. I haven't got the timing down right and over cooked the yolk beyond my perfect yolk to the color of a normal hard boiled yolk, but it was actually still tender and moist tasting, not the chalky texture I associated with hard boiled eggs that I hated growing up.

  • htc2015
    8 years ago

    Wow! Thank you for sharing this, how yummy. If you want to share as you try, I'd love to read about what you are cooking. I cannot wait for my reno to be completed and start using mine!

  • PRO
    Axel Interiors
    7 years ago

    I would appreciate any updates the authors above may have on their CSOs. I am leaning toward specifying a Gaggenau because I believe it is the only one currently on the market with self-cleaning capability. If this becomes the main oven(and why wouldn't it be for a couple with grown kids) I would think the cleaning function would be very important.

  • htc2015
    7 years ago

    Axel, we love the new Wolf steam oven so far. Fish is incredible. Haven't tried bread or many other things. Roasted chicken did make a mess. Self cleaning would be nice but with de-scaling not sure if it is truly practical? Not sure how it works. Can't imagine Gaggenau isn't a great product. The Wolf for the price and performance value along with local on site distributor support if needed was a fine decision for us. Good luck! Janejanel and others, any other recipes to share? Got ours recently installed.

  • PRO
    Axel Interiors
    7 years ago

    While I have not seen it in use, my understanding of the cleaning function on the Gaggenau is more like a rinsing feature. Because it is a plumbed appliance the additional water needed drains away. Extremely cool, but of course you pay for that.

  • PRO
    Steam and Bake
    7 years ago

    Yes, the cleaning function of the Gaggenau is a 'steam clean'/rinse feature. It's great and definitely keeps the dirt factor down, but if the oven gets really dirty (ie from cooking fatty roasts, which it does brilliantly), it still needs to be manually cleaned.

    We don't have the Wolf ovens in Australia (though I have heard a rumour that may be changing!), but from what I know of their specs I'd still select the Gaggenau. I might be biased having worked with the brand for a long time though. ;)

  • PRO
    Steam and Bake
    7 years ago

    Also, htc2015 if you are after recipes, at the risk of self promotion I have a website specifically for combi steam/steam oven recipes. It's early days but I put up a post a week (or try to!), so eventually there'll be a lot of info there. Feel free to have a look here: www.steamandbake.com

  • J M
    7 years ago

    i'd been going over several discussions abt the Wolf combi, & i think i'll go for it with our complete kitchen reno. thanks for the cso recipe website, Steam and Bake!