You dont need to follow a schedule of how to water this ficus. I will tell you that it likes to dry out between watering. Before you water again make sure the soil is completely dry.

It was on a window, but maybe irish weather (and the lack of light) is taking its toll.
I pruned it, moved it to a warmer window (probably not a lot of change in light, just this window stays closed) and gave it some water.. soil was bone dry an inch down.

What are the signs of overwatering?

Many soils support water that inhabits a soggy layer of soil (of varying ht) that refuses to obey the law of gravity and drain from the pot w/o help. The plant doesn't like to be dry, and going dry elicits a drought response which includes shedding leaves to reduce water demands, so you do want to make sure there is moisture available to the plant at all times. This is especially important to young plants that haven't developed their root systems into structures that can store enough water to help them through any brief periods of dryness they might encounter.

Because your planting is so small, this is an easy fix. After you water thoroughly, so you're flushing the soil, wait for the pot to stop draining, then hold the plant over the sink and move it downward, then sharply upward. You'll notice that on the reversal in direction to upward, the excess water in the pot keeps moving downward and out the drain hole. You'll be using Newton's first law of motion to help keep your plant's root system happy. Keep moving the plant downward then sharply upward until no more water exits the pot. Then repeat the next time the plant needs watering.

You CAN learn to make soils that eliminate the issues associated with excess water retention, and I suggest you think about that if you have a feeling plants will always be a part of your life. Knowing how to keep roots happy is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

You'll also need to fertilize on as regular basis. If you're watering so you're flushing the soil when you water, you should fertilize about every 2 weeks in the summer and less often in the winter. Fertilizers with 3:1:2 ratios are great for ficus and most other plants. A fertilizer's ratio is different than its NPK %s. 20-20-20 is a 1:1:1 ratio. Examples of 3:1:2 ratios include 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6, all common in the US, but I don't know what's available there.

The plant will appreciate being outdoors on days above 65*, and being kept in your sunniest windows.

If you have the inclination, I think you'll find the info at these threads to be helpful. This one provides a basic overview of growing houseplants in pots and will help you avoid all the most common pitfalls you might find in your path.

This one, talks more specifically about tending ficus in containers for the long term.

If you are interested, I'll link you to information that discusses soils and their impact on your ability to consistently keep your plants healthy. I think you'll do more to advance your container gardening proficiency by understanding how to keep roots healthy (which centers on soils) than by any other single piece of information.

Additional questions?

Al

Thanks all, tried to follow the tips above.
A tad confusing.. some say it likes to be dry other say it doesn't :)

It's state hasn't improved much - it recently lost a ton of leaves (mostly dried out yellow / brown ones) http://cl.ly/image/020J1g17452U.

Maybe it was the move, or the weather.. or the watering. Still can't tell.

Confusing and frustrating is more often than not an inherent part of trying to implement the all to often opposing advice you get from 'experts' on the net. It's common to note the habit of newer growers who are intent on refining their skill sets to do just the opposite by trying to put into practice everything they read that sounds reasonable; but too many cooks often spoil the broth. For instance, a dry Ficus b is a stressed Ficus b, and while there are some instances where subjecting a plant to certain stress factors can help the grower achieve an end deemed favorable by the grower, it's a pretty safe bet the plant would prefer to avoid the stress if it had its druthers; so, for now I think it would be better across the board if you saved the act of inviting stress as a tool for later when you're more sure of the plant's needs and wants. In reality, while the plant would rather be a little on the drier side rather than being kept too wet, the plant does NOT like to go dry - ever. A soil too dry induces a predictable drought response, the shedding of foliage and partial to full consequential dormancy. When a leaf or all the leaves are shed, the energy the plant 'spends' on rebuilding (a) replacement(s) is energy that would have been directed toward other very important activities that are part of the plant's genetically encoded survival plan.

Where the plant's moisture preferences are concerned, the plant would ask you to provide enough moisture in the root zone that it can easily take up enough moisture to satisfy the plant's day to day ongoing need for water but not so much it limits the amount of oxygen required for the root system to function efficiently. This IS a big deal and a stumbling block a very large % of hobby growers never progress beyond. If you can get to the point where you're confident you can you can provide your plants a medium you can water to beyond the saturation point each time you water w/o having to wring your hands with worry that your soil will remain soggy so long it rots roots and/or limits their ability to function efficiently, You'll be pleasantly surprised (amazed ?) at how much easier growing proficiently becomes from that point forth.

Al