This is already helpful for my newbie self. Succulents and i don't do so well, at least the non-Hoya succulents. Once I have proper lighting that will change, just to gloomy here in WA to go without them.

What would you say is a humid climate? Here it's a pretty average 40-60%.

I would further detail how you water is really dependent on the soil you are using. Here are a few examples:

• Peaty soils as you say can get hydrophobic (resist water) quite easily when they get too dry. So watering once, waiting a few minutes, and watering again helps get over that.
• Bark also can take a while to absorb water, so multiple watering or a dunk helps get water deeper into the bark.
• Perlite and turface absorb/grab onto water very quickly so there is no delay required. I believe pumice is the same (others can confirm).
• Sandy/very fine mixes pull/wick water greatly.

Of course, watering once and waiting allows for salts to dissolve is good practice. Then watering after that helps flush them away, reducing the chance for harmful accumulations. Little sips does the opposite, allows for higher accumulation of salts. However, this is necessary for some specific succulents.

Pots have a big impact on rate of evaporation. Clay pots allow better breathability. Ones with slots on the sides give more oxygen to the roots. Plastic/glazed clay not so much.

Holes on the bottom can change how the mix dries out from the bottom up as well. That varies if you have a saucer (minimal drying) or empty circulating air below the pot (such as directly on a wire shelf). Same as number of holes, although I would say this is probably the least concern of any grower.

My belief is actually that watering in the evening is better for succulents. The vast majority open their stomata/pores when it's cooler at night to breathe, as well as taking in water. In the morning, the guard cells close up for the day to prevent water loss. If there's water left in the pot then the roots just sit around in warm water all day long.

Not saying that watering in the morning is bad, just that you may get a better feeling of your plants needs by watering in the evening. If it's not perked up by the morning either you didn't give it enough water or there is something wrong with the roots (or it may be dormant).

Probably I should say that if you're growing indoors, try not to get the leaves wet at night without good airflow or else you're inviting trouble. If that's the growing condition (poor airflow, wet leaves from being rushed/not watering carefully), morning watering may be better.

Watering Mesembs is a bit dependent on the species. Many different types have different characteristics. I agree that when you say watering a Lithops lots when the new leaves are growing in is not a good idea. It will leave you with a Lithops with many extra pairs of leaves.

I think this applies to many species: Lithops, Cheiridopsis, Lapidaria, Conophytum, maybe Agryoderma?

But other types of Mesembs are not so restrictive to have just one or two pairs of leaves. At least, as far as I know!

I've even read about some very water-loving Mesembs that you're supposed to water like strawberries?! Forget which type, but watering like that sounds bizarre (but is true).

Anyway, it's a nifty idea! Hope others contribute their experience/ideas too!

There is no ideal watering regime. Understanding your particular environment, light, soil, seasonal changes, and species needs is the key. Professor Mayo has given great lesson about how he thinks about these things, and it is clear that the problem is multi-factorial and complex, but simple at the same time.

The answer to the question of how much or how often to give succulents water is exactly this: It depends...

Brad

I water when leaves feel soft (dorstenia, begonia, philodendron, pachypodium, African violets, etc.,) or for fleshier plants, when there's a bit of give to a pinch (crassula, echeveria, haworthia, tradescantia, etc.,). Other spiny pokey plants, I water by visuals- surface wrinkling/ puckering. I also soak some of my plants in the tub (ferns, begonias, large plants in small pots, etc.,) for 30 minutes or so in order to introduce moisture to the whole soil system- I've found this helpful with very small pots with large plants, very large pots, and soil mixes that tend to become a bit hydrophobic. It prevents the edges of the soil from becoming too dry, hydrophobic and inhospitable.

I think the most important aspect is getting a good feel for the soil structure in the container, the amount of available soil therein, the moisture needs of the particular plant, the growth rate, the humidity, high-low temps, light level, and the amount of plant material actively growing. It's a lot of factors and I'm not mathematical about it, but I do watch my plants closely and check in at least once or twice a week to observe development and watch out for problems.

I always water very thoroughly, sometimes giving them a second pass of water after 20 minutes or so.

In addition, I have several succulents in pots without drainage that do very well and have done well for years. That's relative, of course. I'm absolutely certain they would be much larger and grow more vigorously with well draining soil. But sometimes, you don't want big and sometimes you find a container you really love that is too difficult to drill a hole in. Those, I tend to water about a week after they show some sign of stress and do so sparingly in 2 micro doses. Also, I water with rain water when available for these but I do use tap water about 50% of the time. I am in central Texas, after all- which means little to no rain during the warm (blazing hot) season and the water is very hard from our limestone aquifer.

I'm sure that sounds like a lot of mental juggling, but I think that level of attention and interaction is what is most rewarding about keeping plants. Also, lucky me I don't have issues keeping good mental tabs on a greenhouse (80x35') half full of plants and the 300 or so in my house.

This kalanchoe has been in this pot, in about 4x6" of soil, in the same soil, for 4 years since it was a plantlet. The growth pattern is definitely altered- much more compact with some spontaneous branching. It does well enough that I need to trim back leaves of the largest stem about once a month to make sure the lower stems get adequate light. She's also the mother of all my other Kalanchoe daigremontiana - many dozens of which have bloomed and faded out naturally (she's never bloomed).

*That kalanchoe is an example of a planting in a pot without drainage.

Very beautiful kalanchoe, dork. Certainly benefits from rainwater in that drainless pot. Love it.