Mostly, it is matter of being able to buy. For example, I can't get pumice...and many have problem finding different ingredients (and for at least reasonable price). It could be bought on line, but I would have to win lottery to pay for shipping.

It's not so much getting the exact ingredients or following the recipes for medium exactly... it's having a good understanding of the concept involved.

Once you understand the concept... the "how" and "why" of it... you can make the adjustments you have to make, such as changing up an ingredient that isn't available in your area.

A lot of people use pumice or other items. Just keep the basic concept, and the particles sizes needed, in mind when shopping.

You shouldn't have any big problems using slightly different ingredients... I use different items and/or different ratios depending on different variables.

One thing I did do is copy/paste that entire article to a text file on my desktop so I could refer to it whenever I needed to. That was very helpful to me.

Happy Growing!

I'd use pumice already if it didn't cost a small fortune to buy here.

The main reason I use more grit than Turface in some of most of my plant mixes is to keep the water retention purposely low. Turface holds a fair bit of water, as does pumice.

In comparison, grit holds more nutrients that perlite and holds less water.

It's mainly a situation where the concept is most important to remember. Add in the fact that no two people will have the exact same growing conditions, and may have to adjust for variables such as climate, plant type, pot size, what's locally available or affordable, individual micro-environment, etc... and it's easy to see why different growers will make adjustments in their own medium mixes.

For example, the grit I normally use is no longer available... so I either have to look elsewhere, or think about what I'll use in place of it. It shouldn't present that difficult of a problem... there are plenty of places to search.

Exactly so, Al...

I did some of that "fussin" with my own mixes using the basic concept and basic lists as guides. I had to take into consideration a couple of limitations within my growing environment, but it's all good, now!

I can't even imagine not having the advantage of all that knowledge! :-)

I sure wish I had a smart phone or that I hadn't broken my camera... you should see my Ledebouria and other plants! I haven't experienced bulb rot in... gosh, I can't even remember!

I'll never be able to thank you enough! :-)

Thanks everyone for the explanation! I understand a lot better now. Al, I read your articles on container soils and fertilization, and they were VERY VERY eye opening.

I'm glad you found them to be evocative. When I offer something with the potential to improve someone's growing experience, I never try to make up their mind for them; instead, I try to open their minds to the idea there's a better way, then hope that I've made the decision-making process (to go back to the status quo) so disquieting the only way they can escape it is by thinking. Those are the kind of people you want to reach because they will not only benefit the most, but they can usually be counted on to share the things they have learned.

BTW - I appreciate you taking the time to offer the kind assessment.

Al

Al,

Why do you use bark in the mix?

Bark is a cheap filler. It holds moisture, and it holds nutrients better than granite, plus it provides a small volume of nutrients as it slowly decomposes. Initially, when I first started talking about the gritty mix way back in '05, it was a struggle to get anyone to believe you could grow anything in it, even with a 1/3 bark fraction. Imagine the struggle it would have been, convincing anyone that you could grow in a 50/50 mix of grit and Turface, when everyone believed that a black rich looking soil was a requirement if you were to get anything to grow in a container.

Al

It's pretty amazing how many people have been giving up the bark fraction lately.

Bark is surprisingly the hardest to get. Heck I've got 100 pounds (2 full sacks) of already sifted turface and no bark besides the left overs from my already sifted and used reptibark.

its a shame no one did the homework on the best way to grind or chop down the too big bark into usable bark.

It is interesting that bark seems to be the least necessary component, and the hardest one for a lot of people to find in the appropriate size.

However, I do recall many threads where people share their techniques for breaking bark up into smaller pieces, so maybe you just need to search a bit more pip313. I recall reading about blenders, coffee grinders and even nail clippers being used by different members (yes, by hand, piece by piece) when looking into bark myself initially. Never felt the need myself, so can't share any experience.

Like me, most growers will find several sources of bark appropriate for either the gritty mix or 5:1:1 mix after they discover a source and have stopped looking. Years ago, once I'd found a reasonably reliable source via active searching, several other sources would nonchalantly reveal themselves in return for no more effort than the habitual walk past the area where mulch and soil conditioners are normally kept whenever I was in the right kind of store. I probably have 5-6 potential sources every year, and at any given time I would normally be able to choose bark from 2-3 or 4 of the suppliers. Generally, I can find bark that needs no sifting for the 5:1:1 and if used for the gritty mix, only has to have the fine end screened over 1/8" mesh. For some reason, there seems to be a direct relationship between the grower's perceived need for the product and it's lack of availability. IOW, the more you want it, the harder it will be to find.

Al

Your not chopping a hundred gallons of bark by hand. 1 gallon is a pita.

i admit to being picky. Pine looks ugly compared to fir and being in Michigan I don't think there is much natural fir in the area.

truthfully I regret using any bark but I'm the kind of person that if some have it I want them all to. I was bummed when j read that 50/50 grit and turface is just as good but will NEVER break down.

This topic interests me as I am using mostly lava rock in my schefflera. Most of my schefflera were obtained from Fuku Bonsai in Hawaii, and they advocate a mostly lava aggregate growing medium. I assume most have been to their site, but if not, google it - you can get lost there.

In addition to calling for a majority (75%) of lava aggregate, there are (gasp) layers of different size aggregates as well as a plastic separator that partially separates the upper media from the lowest layer. I have approximately 20 plants in various size containers, and am mostly adhering to the recommendations.

Al states above that lava can work, but you need to adjust your mix to find the right water retention level. I have also seen Al's comments that if your soil holds enough water that you are only watering once a week, you are not giving the plant the best place to grow. I hope I am paraphrasing this properly, Al.

I water my plants once a week. Might my schefflera grow better if I could water them more frequently? Should I try to have less water holding capacity than what my current mix offers?

Regarding the use of bark in the various soil mixes, would a good fir sawdust work as well? One of my local supplier rockeries offers a wholesale redwood sawdust with nitrogen added:

http://southbaymaterials.com/products/bark-and-mulch

No bark doesn't break down quickly wood does. Also the point of bark is its chunky not fine.

That nitrolized stuff is a great soil conditioner for your landscape however.

"… I recall reading about blenders, coffee grinders and even nail clippers being used by different members (yes, by hand, piece by piece) when looking into bark …"

what works VERY well, as I have found -and I think Al suggested on these threads - is to take a leaf blower/mulcher with a METAL impeller and mulch a bag o' bark thru that, and then screen it. Pick out the non bark junk and you are good to go ...

dave

Al (above) is correct about having to dial it in. I myself really like using lava rock (Scoria). I also favor Haydite.

I would think Fuku Bonsai uses a lot of lava rock; because they're in Hawaii, and it's an abundant natural resource.

Rob

bragu is so right, I tried his advice ,which he posted in a different thread, and believe me the leaf blower/mulcher worked great. I just poured the bag of larger bark into a plastic tub and slowly sucked it into the blower/mulcher, and voila! smaller chips that can be then screened. Thanks a lot bragu because getting the smaller bark was nigh impossible up here.

ubro or bragu: what is model number of the leaf blower, and is the metal impeller something that comes with the unit by default?

IWORKS ,(the only thing available at the store.) Just make sure that it is a blower/vacuum/mulcher. They come with a handy bag that zips open to empty without detaching it. Make sure to zip it closed again, I forgot and had little pellets zinging all over the place LOL!

It does a 1/16 mulch ratio, I know that seems small but I find that the hard bark pellets do not get even close to that size, and there is some very fine mulch also produced. I don't mind though, I use this for other seedling applications.

I did not even note if it came with a metal impeller when I bought it but mine does have one.

ubro, IWORKS makes a 1/18th and 1/16th mulch ratio unit. You think the 1/16th is preferred?

I couldn't say with confidence, I am new to gritty mix and I cannot get the bark up here. Pet Land used to carry it and right when I asked for it they said they changed to a new brand of Reptile Bark and the pieces are huge. This is so far the best option, Maybe someone else on this forum has the answer.

I put river rock in bottom of my tomato buckets

Why do you do that Mike? Do the buckets hold too much soil or get blown over too easily?

Sorry to jump on this thread - I thought it the best place to ask:

Ive been on my own long mission to improve my plants health and I have found these forums and its members priceless (a big thank you!).

In particular I have had great success with Al's 5-1-1 but wanted to give the Gritty Mix a go.
Problem is I have not found the ingredients (I know this has been discussed countlessly but I wanted a bit more clarification before I spend more money for something I might not use)

I have sourced:
• Granite in 2-5mm
• Pine bark - I need to hammer mine down to the correct size and sieve but okay
• Turface - no where to be found where I live!!!

So I have two alternatives for the water retaining portion of the mix from what I have read but the information is confusing me as to its appropriateness / water retention

1. Pumice ~5mm
2. Tuff / Red rocks 4-8mm - from my reading this is a volcanic rock and I have a attached picture of the small particles and a larger one for reference.

Im leaning towards the small lava rocks but I don't know how it will affect the soil:

Does it hold less water than Turface? Would that mean I need to water more often? I live in a hot country so im not sure I can commit myself more to my plants than i already do. I know its not a formula set in stone and it can be adjusted but I feel like im going into this blind.

Also which plants would I plant the Gritty mix in and which for 5-1-1 as im confused about this.
I have ficuses, monsterra adansonii and leaning towards getting more succulents.

thank you again !!!

I also saw that i can get a hold of crushed terracotta (size 1cm-2.5cm) if thats relevant?

is using bark necessary

No it is not necessary. The bark is meant to be cheap filler.

Al mentioned something about it holding onto and releasing nutrients better. Thing is that it does break down first so essentially if its just a cheap filler, long term it would be more expensive.