Pale Oak for the posts and beams would be lovely with Nimbus Gray walls.

Your post made me laugh.

We did a tongue in groove ceiling in a pickle wash. Loved it. I like your idea.

Right, should've said "fairly neutral" in describing Nimbus. I'm very familiar w/ the color, as we have it in our current home's high-ceilinged, open-plan living room (so I look at a lot of it each day). To my eye it reads as containing very little blue and as being quite neutral among the many grays out there. But I appreciate your point about a color with blue tones working to counteract the red in the cedar.

Yep, that image certainly contains a very blue wall! I think the misunderstanding lies in the fact that BM has 2 very similarly named colors: "Nimbus" (#1465) and "Nimbus Gray" (#2131-50). The color I refer to is #1465. Fairly sure you had in mind color #2131-50, puremichigan. Here are links to the 2 colors from BM's site, so you can compare them:

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/nimbus

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/nimbusgray

Now back to my question of paint vs wash...

Easy mistake to make. I appreciate your advice.

Don't touch those beams!

My full response wasn't posted! I was kidding about the beams - I like your idea to color wash on the beams. It's easier to paint them completely later if you change your mind.

I'm going to contradict myself.

I pulled some colors and went back to look at the space - can't see the windows from here so I was noting there is a peak skylight way back .. and the white white cabinets and strong tone of the floors. Part of the reason the room works now is the repetition of white - from the casework to the slipcovered dining chairs and armchairs. When you paint the room, are you thinking you are painting the ceiling nimbus also?If not, you will introduce another plane into the architecture with a white ceiling and dark walls - not a great solution here.

May I suggest that Nimbus is going to be too dark a tone for this room when you do the ceiling and the intersecting walls . . given the amount of natural light here? I think you will get a better result on the walls with bm light pewter . .the next shade up from Nimbus .. which you can do on all the walls and ceiling, and then you can take your contractors advice to use nimbus on the beams (yes, water it down so it is a pickling application).

I think Nimbus will be too dark on the beams by itself, but as the first coat it will achieve the color correction that is necessary. From there, the next coat to wash on is bm sheeps wool http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/sheepswool - it might take two coats but the final tone will be wonderful - against nimbus or light pewter on the walls .. if you want to have the drama of nimbus somewhere - do only the intersecting plane wall with the cutout above for the skylights and the casework and doorways below . . that wall would read out as architecture without darkening the entire room / ceiling.

I have to say what first comes to mind is why you would buy a house with post and beams if you don't like them but that is your call. People would kill to have a set up like that.

Painting them is going to look exactly the same but just painted. I would suggest sanding down the beams to get a more natural color and then going from there. The amber tone is from aging and most likely the clear or seal coat. I am sure it would be an easy one pass with a DA sander and you would be at bare wood. From there you can choose the tone of stain or lack there of. Stains come in many colors and would give a better look then a coat of paint. SW can match just about any color in stain. You could wash the color on or use as a stain coat.

That room can be made contemporary or country depending on decor so it isn't just the beams. You have to respect the craftsmanship that went into their design to appreciate what you have. It has nothing to do with the age it is the craftsmanship involved.

They aren't going away even if you paint them. I actually think they will stick out more when painted.

By the way I would talk to another contractor as they don't look structural as they don't go to the rafters.

Thanks to everyone for all the good insights. Especially to you, libradesign-- you really provided a lot of info.

I can see a contemporary vision here without raw wood - please come back and show us more as you make it yours.