Did you have a level to determine how much pitch you have to add? If you make it level it should drain properly. Just to make sure you should tilt it 1/4 inch per foot pitched to the outside.

Do you have any play to tilt the AC towards the outside? Try lifting it up from the inside and add a wood shim or piece of cardboard underneath. Just lift it enough to get the proper pitch. You may have to put some force on it, but don't over do it.

The window frame and sill may be crooked. If it is far from level you are going to have to compromise on the window seal if the simple fix doesn't work.

LG has an 800 number for questions. They may have some other ideas.

Thanks Mike. I plan on picking up a small level today (the one I have is too big to fit on the AC). The bottom of the AC is pulled as far in as I can get it. I can try adding a shim if we remove the unit first. Would there really be enough play to add any tilt given that the top and bottom brackets are fixed? I thought about maybe the window is crooked - it's an old house after all - but a level on the side of the sash of the first window says it's vertical. I'm feeling pretty dumb here, because it seems to me it shouldn't be this complicated. (Good idea about the LG number - I can try that if all else fails, but I assume they only answer during working hours when I am away from home. Maybe that's a poor assumption.)

LG customer support is 1-800-243-0000. It says it is open 6am-midnight CST.

It is hard to say whether my suggestion is going to work. Get the small level and experiment. Just be gentle. I think the whole unit is made out of plastic.

Also try searching YouTube for a solution. I am amazed what I find there when I am trying to solve a problem.

Mike, you're the best! Thanks! The chassis is made out of metal, but the front plate is definitely plastic. I did try YouTube - all I could find was videos of how to drill a hole in the drain pan. But maybe I just wasn't using the right search words. I also just recently saw something online about an internal drain line that connects the front part of the drain pan (inside) to the back part (outside), through the insulating styrofoam. Or something to that effect. I'll try to see if anything is visible tonight. Perhaps that's my problem.

I can't get mine to tilt backwards either. I have 2 window AC's installed in storm windows. Mine are perfectly level with no tilt.

The only time mine leaked was during a heavy rainstorm when we got 2 inches of rain within minutes.

Mine has a small groove in the metal bottom that leads the condensation from the front coils to the back of the unit, then the slinger sprays that condensation on the back coils & evaporates the water.

When cleaning the filter I notice water under the front coils, but my unit has a lip that prevents the water from spilling over, within reason.

I would agree with the above posters, it sounds like yours needs tilted backwards or maybe the groove leading water to the back of the unit is clogged, or like you said, the drain line is clogged or come loose.

So, the level that I bought says that it is tilted; the bubble is completely out of the indicator lines. So that can't be it. When I opened the front plate and removed the filter, I can't see anything other than the coils and fins. Next step is to yank it out of the window and completely open it up to see if there is a drain line I can unblock. I noted this morning that the window sill (inside the triple track storms) is damp, while the 3 other sills in the house with AC units are dry. Obviously this needs to be fixed or the sill will rot. In the mean time, I have ordered a new unit for in-store pickup this weekend. If I can fix the one I have, it would be a backup. If not, I don't want the stores to run out the ones with drain holes out the back (our local store has already sold out). For what these little units cost, it isn't worth having it serviced. But hopefully we can salvage it somehow.

I bought the Haier ESA410N-L 10,000-BTU Air Conditioner from Walmart & love it. Worth every penny. Like you said, they are usually cheaper to replace than fix.

I thought I'd give an update - we bought a new version of the LG, because we had another one in a different room (a 2014 version) that had been giving us no problems. Installed it, and the window sill has been dry as a bone. However...

A few days ago the 2014 one started pouring water into the house. I'm not exactly sure where the water was coming out, but the interlocking weather stripping on the sill was filling up on the inside like a bathtub and water was all over the floor. I pulled off the connector and hose on the outside and saw a bit of pink bacterial film in the hose and at the connection. When we pulled the unit from the window, I cleaned out a bunch of black gunk from the backside lip using a Q-Tip that might have been stopping up the drainage (the drain hole is in the back near the bottom, but not _through_ the bottom). It seemed to work. The next day I turned off the unit and poured a strong mix of bleach and water into the pan and let it sit maybe an hour to try to kill and dissolve the gunk, then flushed it with water. We're thinking maybe we should do this every couple of weeks or so with both units? Not sure if it is a good idea, but the little pan tablets won't fit through the vents.

Any other ideas on how to keep the bacterial film and gunk out, without dissasembling the whole unit?

I have four room air conditioners which I remove and reinstall every year; they are four different manufacturers. Every AC I have seen has a bar across the underside which is supposed to rest against the window stool, and a piece of steel mounted on the top which rests against the sash. If you can meet this geometry, then it should drain properly. My case is a little difficult because have triple-track storm/screens on the outside which raises the unit so that the above geometry doesn't work. I had to make a false stool out of a piece of 1x2 and attach it to the stool. It's a little ugly, but it works. Note: no outside brackets; I don't think they are necessary with the newer lightweight 6000 BTU units. Of course, this method of mounting depends on the sash being in good condition and is prevented from opening accidentally.

My Haier has been leaking too. A couple weeks ago I noticed a leaf was covering the drainage hole outside and the slinger couldn't sling enough water away.

Leaf removed & was fine until a few days ago. More leaking. I increased the tilt & so far ok.

The leaking always starts when the unit shuts off & the fan is no longer running or circulating the water.