Do you live in Naperville, Illinois? If so, the code very likely requires metal conduit, as does the fact that you have just yellow and purple wires, so the equipment ground is the conduit and the green (ground) wire from the fan would attach directly to the metal junction box in the ceiling. You can pick up a little packet of green screws for the purpose in the electrical department of Menards or Home Depot (they're in the same section as wire nuts, usually hanging from a peg hook). The white (neutral) wire of the fan would connect to the two white wires in the ceiling box.

As for the yellow and purple. they are both "hot" designed to provide separate sources of power for the fan and light, so that the fan/light can be controlled from wall switches. Frankly, remotes are the leading cause of failures in fan and I might suggest skipping the remote and just using wall switches. If you do want to use the remote, you only need to connect the black from the fan to either the yellow or purple wire in the ceiling box. The remaining wire can be capped off and just tucked neatly back in the ceiling box.

That should solve you problem. If not, let us know and perhaps include a couple of pictures of your ceiling box so that we can see what's going on.

Thank you @mike_kaiser_gw for timely response and sure gave me total confidence to attempt it again (3rd time charm). Please find below all related pictures (included Ceiling pre-wired setup, Fan wires and Remote receiver as well, metal conduit picture before drywall stage). Yes, I live in Naperville, IL and yes metal conduit carrying wires around home. As you notice in Ceiling picture, Ceiling bracket do have a green wire and that should be matching to your mention of grounding screw requirement. Also I made sure checked the switch as regular switch as manual mentioned about dual switch. That one thought I see is Am I supposed to separate those white joined wires? but I see I do not need to as I mentioned about it previously. May be pictures help resolve on this last question. I'm very sure your guidance will solve the puzzle part of it. Will make sure post the updates here as I will be done with it. Much appreciated.

Full Manual reference: http://www.hunterfan.com/SupportDocuments/OwnersManuals/M3571-01.pdf

The "white covering" on most of those wires is ceiling paint. If you look in the two gang switch box, you will probably find that a black and white wire are in one conduit, and then a white, yellow, and two orange wires (maybe a black too) go out the other conduit. In the back of the ceiling fan box, you have two more wires that go straight through. These are probably the same orange as in the switch box if you scrape the paint off of them. They probably go to a second switch for the lights, a 3-way with the purple switch leg.

Your remote control will mess up the planned switches, and will render the light switches on each end of the room useless if you use the yellow switch leg. Personally, I do not like the remotes, or having to keep track of them, and would wire the fan up without it.

Thank you mike_kaiser_gw and Fred S for your insights/views.

For mike_kaiser_gw: The conduit picture posted earlier was to confirm the conduit wiring but the picture definitely not the switch box that supplying the power to fan. Sorry for unwarranted confusion. I might do next attempt in couple days to post the updates if any. I surely opened the switch box to confirm not a dual switch but missed taking a snap. Will try to post it this time but not before Saturday. Thanks again.

If properly installed there should be 2 switch legs from the switching box to the fan ceiling box. One wire is for motor control and the other wire is for light kit control. Neutral white wires should never be used in any switching. Line side of any switch is the power source it needs to operate the device it is intended to switch off and on. The Load side of any switch is the (light, motor, device being operated) by the switch. Knowing what your line side and load side wires are the 1st step in installing any switching correctly. Back to the motor side the switch is called a rheostat type switch set your fan to the highest speed and control the speed by the switch not yanking on the factory 3 speed pull chain. I like to dimmer switch light kits that way I do not have to have a bright light if not needed. By indenpendley switching each device (motor/light kit) you can than either have one or the other off without affecting the operation of the other. By setting on high speed and leaving it alone you will not knock the fan out of balance as you would if you were yanking on the factory pull switches. And if the switch says NO after being installed it is installed upside down.

Thank you D B Electric for your insights and that sure prompted me to take couple of pictures at switch box even in night setting to showcase the wiring. The first two pictures must be highlighting pre-wired setup for fan (Left side switch is for fan), the other one is regular switch meant for corner outlet.

If I understand what you said above "The Load side of any switch is the (light, motor, device being operated) by the switch", looks like yellow is by the switch thus yellow is load side. If you see second picture below and at the back of switch, the purple one is straight going into the switch indicating line side. As I'm going to have remote and receiver setup as stated in the manual (link provided above in my previous post) and obviously as stated by mike_kaiser_gw; I shall use only one of those two (purple or yellow). I can attempt as vice versa scenario so whichever works in its first attempt, I'd go with it capping the other wire and leave it as unused.

Now with wiring picture presented, this should be more clear. Your understanding and further direction is much appreciated.

If you have further issues contact me and I will try and help you

Switches pulled out for more understanding on wiring. I'll be giving next attempt anytime over the weekend. Thank you all for showing interest and suggestions.

I've attempted wiring with both alternatives attempted; one time capped yellow wire, the other time purple was capped. It looks like I'm on positive side this time but not sure to see it as complete.

Better than previous experience - that circuit breaker did not trip so power to the room remain intact. I did not finish my entire work of fixing fan yet but attempting only to see if wiring works. So, the best test I see is to see if the light will turn on and next step is if possible to see if fan motor turns with out blades fixed.

Every time I turn on the switch I see lights flash and go off irrespective of what I'm doing with remote (yes, each time).
Reference Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5s...piZ2ZEclE/view

Quick internet read relates mentioning: I've attempted 1 and then 2 CFL bulbs each of 13 watts, each light holder on fan indicates max 14 w can be attempted. I've to attempt 9W LED bulbs that came along, may be that can indicate something to me.

In general what I expected is lights will stay on and relate to remote actions. And so fan motor may turn if I do so on remote. I think all remaining work is mechanical (like fix blades and give it a final shape). I'm also sure remote battery is as new as fan came along fan package and so far not yet clicked more than 10 times. This is making me to think to think if I can move ahead finish all of it and then attempt.

Any one sensing problem with that flashing or that flashing light indicate everything is going to be good when done?

Thank you all and any insights is very much appreciated.

Page 18 of the manual indicates there is a "safe exit" mode for the lighting to give you time for leave the room before the light goes off and the light flashes briefly to indicate the mode as been activated. When you turn on the lights are you briefly pressing the button on the remote or holding it down?

At this point, you obviously have power to the fan. I might suggest calling Hunter and seeing what they have to say.

Exactly mike_kaiser_gw. There seems likely an issue with remote battery or to do pairing (pairing instruction available in manual). At this moment fan is in place wired and in its final shape non-running with power restored to the room. I'm now confident that it is remote now holding it at this point. Thank you very much for being on this with me.

If you wont want to use the remote, get rid of the controller in the fan if it is already prewired for separate light and fan. All that wiring requires is one 3 way wire with the separate hots on separate switches if one way. (unless expecting 3 way switches for the room which would require two 3 way wire bundles).

There is also technology out there with a controller in the fan canopy that runs to a special switch (technically a hard wired remote mounted to the wall) that allows separate control of fan and light with a standard (one hot) wire. But you wouldn't need that as you are prewired for separate control. I only mention this to explain why you don't need the controller if you aren't using the remote.